4Sleeping & Eating
Staying in central Mataram is a good way to fully engage with nontourist local life. Mataram Mall, and the streets around it, are lined with Western-style fast-food outlets, Indonesian noodle bars and warungs (food stalls).
Hotel Melati ViktorGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-633830; Jl Abimanyu 1; r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW)
The high ceilings, 37 clean rooms and Balinese-style courtyard, complete with Hindu statues, make this one of the best-value places in town. The cheapest rooms have fans.
oIkan Bakar 99SEAFOOD$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-664 2819, 0370-643335; Jl Subak III 10; mains 20,000-55,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
Think squid, prawns, fish and crab, brushed with chilli sauce, perfectly grilled or fried, and drenched in spicy Padang or sticky sweet-and-sour sauce. You will dine among the Mataram families who fill the long tables in the arched, tiled dining room.
7Shopping
For handicrafts try the many shops on Jl Raya Senggigi, the road heading north from Ampenan towards Senggigi. Jl Panca Usaha is the main shopping street, sprinkled with interesting shops. Large new air-con malls are also appearing.
oPasar MandalikaMARKET
(Bertais; h7am-5pm)
There are no tourists at this vast market near the Mandalika bus terminal in Bertais, but it has everything else: fruit and veggies, fish (fresh and dried), baskets full of colourful, aromatic spices and grains, freshly butchered beef, palm sugar, pungent bricks of shrimp paste, and cheaper handicrafts than you will find anywhere else in west Lombok.
Lombok Handicraft CentreHANDICRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Hasanuddin; h9am-6pm)
At Sayang Sayang (2km north of Cakra), there's a wide range of crafts for sale, including masks, textiles and ceramics from across Nusa Tenggara.
Mataram MallMALL
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Selaparang; h7am-9pm; a)
A multistorey shopping mall with a supermarket, department stores, electronics and clothes shops, and some good restaurants.
8Information
You'll find plenty of banks with ATMs across Mataram.
Kantor ImigrasiIMMIGRATION
(Immigration Office; GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-632520; Jl Udayana 2; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Government office for renewing your visa.
Rumah Sakit Harapan KeluargaHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-670000; www.harapankeluarga.co.id; Jl Ahmad Yani 9; h24hr)
The best private hospital on Lombok is just east of downtown Mataram and has English-speaking doctors.
8Getting There & Around
Mataram's airport was closed after the new one near Praya opened in 2011.
Bemo
Mataram is very spread out. Bemos (minibuses) shuttle between the Kebon Roek bemo terminal in Ampenan and the Mandalika terminal in Bertais (10km away) along the two main thoroughfares via the centre (5000Rp).
Outside the Pasar Cakranegara there is a handy bemo stop for services to Bertais, Ampenan, Sweta and Lembar. Kebon Roek has bemos to Bertais (3000Rp) and Senggigi (5000Rp).
Bus
The chaotic Mandalika Terminal is 3km from the centre and is a bus and bemo hub. It’s surrounded by the city’s chaotic main market. Use the official ticket office to avoid touts. Bemos shuttle to the centre (4000Rp).
BUSES FROM MATARAM
SERVICES TO OTHER ISLANDS
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr)
Bima (Sumbawa) 250,000 15
Denpasar (Bali) 175,000 8
SERVICES ACROSS LOMBOK
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration
Airport 25,000 45min
Kuta (via Praya & Sengkol) 25,000 2hr
Labuhan Lombok 35,000 2½hr
Lembar 25,000 30min
Taxi
For a reliable metered taxi, call a Blue Bird Lombok Taksi (627000).
LOMBOK'S REGIONS
WEST LOMBOK
The region's biggest city, Mataram, just keeps growing with the economy of West Nusa Tenggara. Meanwhile the famed beach resort Senggigi remains in a 1990s time warp. The greatest allure is southwest of Lembar port, where the peninsula bends forward and back, the seas are placid, bucolic offshore islands beckon and surf breaks such as Tanjung Desert await.
NORTH & CENTRAL LOMBOK
Lush and fertile, Lombok's scenic interior is stitched together with rice terraces, lush forest, undulating tobacco fields, and fruit and nut orchards, and is crowned by sacred Gunung Rinjani. Entwined in all this big nature are traditional Sasak settlements, some of which are known for their handicrafts. Public transport is neither frequent nor consistent enough to rely on.
SOUTH LOMBOK
Beaches just don't get much better: the water is warm, striped turquoise and curls into barrels, and the sand is silky and snow-white, framed by massive headlands and sheer cliffs that recall Bali's Bukit Peninsula 30 years ago. Village life is still vibrant in south Lombok as well, with unique festivals. The south is noticeably drier than the rest of Lombok and more sparsely populated. But, with Lombok's international airport now located here and with greatly improved roads, change has arrived. This is now the centre of Lombok's tourism development.
EAST LOMBOK
All most travellers see of the east coast of Lombok is Labuhan Lombok, the port for ferries to Sumbawa. But the road around the northeast coast is pretty good, and can be traversed if you're hoping to complete a circumnavigation.
Around Mataram
As well as Lombok's most important temple, sights around Mataram include the old port town of Ampenan. Although most people buzz through on their way to or from Senggigi, if you pause you'll discover a still-tangible sense of the Dutch colonial era in the tree-lined main street and the older buildings.
Pura LingsarHINDU TEMPLE
(off Jl Gora II; grounds free, temple admission by donation; h7am-6pm)
This large temple compound is the holiest in Lombok. Built in 1714 by King Anak Agung Ngurah, and nestled beautifully in lush rice fields, it’s multidenominational, with a temple for Balinese Hindus (Pura Gaduh), and one for followers of Lombok’s mystical take on Islam, the Wektu Telu religion.
It's just 6km northeast of Mataram in the village of Lingsar. Take a bemo (minibus) from the Mandalika terminal to Narmada, then another to Lingsar. Ask to be dropped off near the entrance to the temple complex.
Pura Gaduh has four shrines: one orientated to Gunung Rinjani (seat of the gods on Lombok), one to Gunung Agung (seat of the gods in Bali), and a double shrine representing the union between the two islands.
The Wektu Telu temple is noted for its enclosed and lily-covered pond devoted to Lord Vishnu, and for the holy eels, which can be enticed from their lair with hard-boiled eggs (available at stalls). It’s considered good luck to feed them. You will be expected to rent a sash and/or sarong (or bring your own) to enter the shrines.
Lembar
Lembar is Lombok's main port for ferries, tankers and Pelni liners coming in from Bali and beyond. Though the ferry port itself is scruffy, the setting – think azure inlets ringed by soaring green hills – is stunning. If you need cash there are ATMs near the harbour entrance.
Public ferries (child/adult/motorbike/car 27,000/40,000/112,000/773,000Rp, five to six hours) travel nonstop between Padangbai (Bali) and Lembar. Passenger tickets are sold near the pier. Boats supposedly run 24 hours and leave about every 90 minutes, but the service can be unreliable – boats have caught on fire and run aground.
Bemo and bus connections are abundant, and bemos run regularly to the Mandalika bus/bemo terminal (25,000Rp), so there’s no reason to linger. Taxis cost 80,000Rp to Mataram, and 150,000Rp to Senggigi.
Southwestern Peninsula
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The sweeping coastline that stretches west of Lembar is blessed with boutique sleeps on deserted beaches and tranquil offshore islands. You can while away weeks here among the pearl farms, salty old mosques, friendly locals and relatively pristine islands.
Of the
dozen islands off the coast here, Gili Gede is a favourite. Although popular with day-tripping snorkellers and divers from across Lombok, the island itself is utterly serene and has a couple of isolated places to stay and unwind.
Gili Asahan is another idyllic spot: soothing winds gust, birds flutter and gather in the grass just before sunset, muted calls to prayer rumble, and the stars and moon light up the sky.
The only off-note on the landscape is the dull town of Sekotong, which you have to pass through on your way west. Otherwise, you follow the narrow coastal road along the contours of the peninsula, skirting white-sand beach after white-sand beach on your way to the village of Bangko Bangko and one of Asia's legendary surf breaks, Tanjung Desert (Desert Point), which has one of the world's longest left-hand barrels.
Although winding, the road is in good shape almost until the end, when suddenly it switches to deeply rutted gravel and dirt. You can traverse it with a car or motorbike but you'll have to drive at a walking pace. After 2km you'll reach a fork; turn right for the fishing village of Bangko Bangko. Turn left for another 1km of road misery that ends at the oceanic wonders of Tanjung Desert. Your reward for enduring the horrible last 3km of road to Tanjung Desert? An entrance fee of 10,000Rp per person and 5000Rp per vehicle.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are a few hotels and resorts sprinkled along the northern coast of the peninsula, though the most atmospheric beaches and lodging are on the offshore islands. You'll eat where you sleep. Top-end places have dive operations.
At Tanjung Desert, you'll discover a strip of white sand and a row of flimsy bamboo cafes where you can scarf down simple meals, quaff cold beer and gaze out at the break. Phone service is dodgy and the area gets very crowded during peak surfing season (May to October) so you may or may not find room at the very basic inns. A number of dirt-simple (sand-simple?) no-name warungs will let you crash for about 100,000Rp a night.
Desert Point LodgeBUNGALOW$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1605 4320; www.desertpoint-lodge.com; west of Pelangan; r from 300,000Rp)
A solid choice near Tanjung Desert, with seven woven-bamboo and thatched bungalows with bamboo beds, hammocks on the porch and private baths attached. Surfing may be king here but you can also dive.
Madak BeloBUNGALOW$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0554 9637; www.madak-belo.com; Gili Gede; r/bungalows from 200,000/400,000Rp; i)
Here's a sensational French hippy-chic island paradise, with ooh-la-la views and three basic rooms upstairs in the main wooden and bamboo lodge. They share a bathroom and a bamboo lounge area strung with hammocks. It also has two private bungalows with queen beds and private bathrooms.
Desert Point BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0878 6585 5310; [email protected]; Tanjung Desert; r from 300,000Rp)
The most upscale place to stay right at Tanjung Desert (that's because there's a phone number you can try calling) has 10 rather shacky bungalows. A generator provides power at certain times and there's a two-level surf-viewing platform.
oPearl BeachBUNGALOW$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 0724 7696; www.pearlbeach-resort.com; Gili Asahan; cottages/bungalows from US$44/80; W)
A private-island resort; cottages are simple, bamboo affairs with outdoor baths and a hammock on the porch. The bungalows are chic, with polished concrete floors, soaring ceilings, gorgeous outdoor baths, and fabulous daybed swings on the wooden porches. There's great diving, kayaks and more.
Cocotino'sRESORT$$$
(%0819 0797 2401; www.cocotinos-sekotong.com; Jl Raya Palangan Sekotong, Tanjung Empat; r/villas from US$100/$275; aiWs)
This walled compound along the main road has an oceanfront location, a private beach and 36 high-quality bungalows (some with lovely outdoor bathrooms, some with sea views). It offers deals via its website. The setting is a sublime tropical idyll.
8Getting There & Away
Bemo
Bemos run between Lembar and Pelangan (10,000Rp, 1½ hours) via Sekotong and Tembowong every 30 minutes until 5pm. West of Pelangan transport is less regular, but the route is still served by infrequent bemos until Selegang. Private wheels are your best transport option.
Taxi Boats
Taxi boats (per person 20,000Rp) shuttle from Tembowong on the mainland to Gili Gede. You'll see them near the Pertamina gas station. Chartered boats also connect Tembowong with the islands of Gili Gede and Gili Asahan (from 300,000Rp return).
Senggigi
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Lombok's traditional tourist resort, Senggigi enjoys a fine location along a series of sweeping bays, with light-sand beaches sitting pretty below a backdrop of jungle-clad mountains and coconut palms. In the late afternoon a setting blood-red sun sinks into the surf next to the giant triangular cone of Bali's Gunung Agung.
Tourist numbers are relatively modest here and you'll find some good-value hotels and restaurants. Still, the tacky main strip could be more appealing, the noticeable influx of bar girls is sleazy, and the resident beach hawkers can be over-persistent.
The Senggigi area spans 10km of coastal road; the upscale neighbourhood of Mangsit is 3km north of central Senggigi.
Senggigi
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Blue MarlinB3
2Dream DiversC2
3Rinjani Trekking ClubC2
4Royal SpaC2
4Sleeping
5Hotel ElenC1
6Sendok HotelC3
7Sonya HomestayB1
8WiraC2
5Eating
9Bambu LoungeC1
10Banana Tree CafeB1
11Cafe Tenda Cak PoerB1
12OfficeA1
13Warung MenegaD3
1Sights
Pura Batu BolongHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Raya Senggigi; admission by donation; h7am-7pm)
It’s not the grandest, but Pura Batu Bolong is Lombok’s most appealing Hindu temple, and particularly lovely at sunset. Join an ever-welcoming Balinese community as they leave offerings at the 14 altars and pagodas that tumble down a rocky volcanic outcropping into the foaming sea about 2km south of central Senggigi. The rock underneath the temple has a natural hole, hence the name (batu bolong literally means ‘rock with hole’).
2Activities
Snorkelling & Diving
There's reasonable snorkelling off the point in Senggigi, 3km north of the town. You can rent gear (per day 50,000Rp) from several spots on the beach. Diving trips from Senggigi usually visit the Gili Islands. The dive shops we list also offer courses.
Blue MarlinDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693719, 0370-613 2424; www.bluemarlindive.com; Holiday Resort Lombok, Jl Raya Senggigi; single dive trips 490,000Rp)
The local branch of a well-regarded Gili Trawangan dive shop; offers dive courses and trips.
Dream DiversDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693738; www.dreamdivers.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; intro dives 910,000Rp)
The Senggigi office of the Gili diving original. Runs snorkelling trips out to the Gilis for 400,000Rp. It also organises activities such as Rinjani treks, and dive courses.
Trekking
Rinjani Trekking ClubADVENTURE SPORTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 573 0415, 0370-693202; www.info2lombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; h9am-8pm)
Well informed about routes and trail conditions on Gunung Rinjani, and offers a wide choice of guided hikes. It's the best of the many places hawking Rinjani treks along the strip.
Massages & Spas
Very determined local masseurs, armed with mats, oils and attitude, hunt for business on Senggigi's beaches. Expect to pay about 60,000Rp for one hour after bargaining. Most hotels can arrange for a masseur to visit your room; rates start at about 75,000Rp. Be warned, many of the street-side 'salons' you'll find are fronts for more salacious services.
oQamboja SpaSPA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693800; www.quncivillas.com; Qunci Villas, Mangsit; massages from US$30; h8am-10pm)
Gorgeous h
otel spa where you select your choice of oil (uplifting, harmony...) depending on the effect and mood you require from your massage; types available include Thai, Balinese and shiatsu.
Royal SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-660 8777; off Jl Raya Senggigi, Senggigi Plaza; massages from 110,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
A professional yet inexpensive spa with a tempting range of scrubs, massages and treatments. The lulur massage is a real treat and includes a body mask.
4Sleeping
Senggigi's accommodation is very spread out. But even if you're located a few kilometres away (say, in Mangsit) you're not isolated as many restaurants offer free rides to diners and taxis are very inexpensive.
Heavy discounts of up to 50% are common in midrange and top-end places outside the July–August peak season.
Senggigi
oWiraGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-692153; www.thewira.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; dm from 100,000Rp, r 250,000-450,000Rp; aW)
This boutique losmen (a type of budget accommodation) is on the beach side of the main Senggigi strip. It has 11 simple, tasteful, sizeable rooms with bamboo furnishings and private porches out back. There is also a 10-bed fan-cooled dorm room. Use the quiet entrance on the side street, away from Jl Raya Senggigi.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 58