Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 82
Dive into AmbonD2
6Maluku DiversB2
4Sleeping
7Baguala Bay ResortD2
Maluku DiversB2
Penginapan Michael
Pondok Patra
8The NatsepaD2
5Eating
9Gaba GabaD2
Tantui SeafoodC2
7Shopping
10Ambon City CenterC2
History
Until 1512 Ambon was ruled by Ternate. The sultans brought the civilising force of Islam to the island’s north coast and developed Hitu Lama as a major spice-trading port. When the Portuguese displaced the Ternateans, they found Ambon’s less developed, non-Islamicised south more receptive to Christianity, and built the fortress around which Kota Ambon would eventually evolve. The Portuguese never established perfect control over Ambon or the Banda nutmeg trade, and were easily displaced by the Dutch in the early 17th century. Ambon briefly served the VOC (Dutch East India Company) as its pre-Jakarta capital, and the island became the world's largest producer of cloves.
During WWII, when Kota Ambon was a Japanese military headquarters, Allied bombing destroyed most of its once-attractive colonial architecture. In 1950, the island was briefly the centre of the southern Malukan independence movement, extinguished within a few months by the Indonesian military.
From 1999 until mid-2002, Ambon was ripped apart by Christian–Muslim intercommunal violence, leaving Kota Ambon looking like 1980s Beirut. After a stable nine years or so, which allowed for a strong economic resurgence that wiped away almost every visible scar of that tragic era, there were once again frayed nerves. In both 2011 and early 2012 sectarian violence flared, showing the persistent Muslim–Christian divide beneath the veneer of peace. But while the darkest years were organised and overwhelming, these were only a handful of guys on either side, throwing bottles and rocks at each other, and (mostly) missing, while everyone else got on with their lives.
8Getting There & Away
Ambon's airport, Bandara Pattimura, has a relatively new terminal with a weak wi-fi signal. Departure tax is 30,000Rp.
A number of airlines fly from Pulau Ambon.
Xpress AirAIRLINE
(%0911-323 807; Pattimura Airport)
GarudaAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.garuda-indonesia.com; Jl Pattimura 5)
Lion/Wings AirAIRLINE
(%0911-351 532; Pattimura Airport)
Sriwijaya AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-354 498; www.sriwijayaair-online.com; Jl AM Sangaji 79; h9am-6pm)
Kota Ambon
%0911 / Pop 331,000
By the region’s dreamy tropical standards, Maluku's capital is a throbbing metropolis. Sights are minimal and the architecture wins no prizes, but there is a unique cafe culture, some choice sleeps and decent food. Plus it's well connected to the Banda and Kei Islands, the real reasons you're here.
Kota Ambon
1Sights
1Benteng VictoriaC1
2Francis Xavier CathedralD3
3Masjid Raya al-FatahA2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4NakamuraB3
4Sleeping
5Hero HotelC2
6Orchid HotelC2
7Penginapan AsriB3
8Penginapan the RoyalB2
9Swiss-BelhotelD2
5Eating
10Beta RumahB3
11Ratu GurihB3
12Rumah Makan NifiaB2
13Sari GurihC2
14SarindaC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
15Kopi Tradisi JoasB3
16Sibu-SibuB3
7Shopping
17Plaza AmbonB1
18Ud IntiC2
1Sights
oCommonwealth War CemeteryCEMETERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tantui)
Known to locals as the 'Australian Cemetery', this trim and neatly manicured cemetery was designed by a British landscape architect in honour of Allied servicemen who died in Maluku and the Celebes in WWII. Adding poignancy, it's built on the site of a former POW camp.
Benteng VictoriaFORTRESS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Undramatic Benteng Victoria (out of bounds due to army use) is a Dutch-era fortress. The site of Indonesian national hero Pattimura's hanging, it’s fronted by a gilded statue of Slamet Riyadi, an Indonesian commander who died retaking the place in 1950.
Masjid Raya al-FatahMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sultan Babullah)
The town’s biggest mosque, Masjid Raya al-Fatah is a modern concrete affair, its gold and brown onion dome visible across much of central Ambon.
Francis Xavier CathedralCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pattimura)F
Named for the Basque missionary who visited Maluku in the 16th century, Francis Xavier Cathedral has a facade crusted with saint statues and glimmering steeples.
Museum SiwalimaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-341 652; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun)
Ten minutes south of Kota Ambon, set in sloping landscaped gardens adorned with Japanese and Dutch cannon and a scowling statue of Pattimura, parang (machete) aloft, you'll find the modest Siwalima. The collection, housed in three buildings separated by a steep road, is dedicated to Malukan material culture, including fish traps, stone tools, model longboats, an elongated tifa drum, crafted from bamboo and ancient bone, and brass jewellery.
Traditional Indonesian wedding costumes from across the archipelago's many regions are exhibited in the topmost gallery. Renovations and a lack of demand can mean the whole collection is not always open, but it's a worthy diversion from the hustle of Ambon. An ojek to the door is about 10,000Rp.
2Activities
Aside from idling in rumah kopi (coffee houses) and plotting your escape to the Banda or Kei Islands, there's not a great deal to do in Ambon.
NakamuraSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-345 557; www.nakamura-info.com; Jl Phillips Latumahina SK 5/7; treatments 60,000-215,000Rp; h10am-10pm; a)
This Japanese-style spa, replete with gurgling fountains, trilling birdsong and rice-paper massage cubicles, is the ideal antidote to the sweat and bustle of Ambon. They take their acupressure and shiatsu therapy seriously here, even checking your blood pressure before getting down to business.
4Sleeping
Ambon has recently benefited from a growth in choice, affordable accommodation.
Penginapan the RoyalGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-348 077; Jl Anthony Rhebok 1D; r 165,000-248,000Rp; aW)
A decent budget option, with Ikea-chic wardrobes and desks, new air-con units, hot water, small flat-screens and wi-fi. The walls are a touch grubby and some rooms smell of stale smoke, but unadvertised discounts can make the Royal excellent value.
Penginapan AsriGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-311 217; Jl Baru 33; r 110,000-180,000Rp; a)
Located right in the heart of downtown Ambon, the Asri is much better kept than most other guesthouses in this price range, even if many rooms lack natural light. The more expensive rooms have hot water, and all have air-con and private baths.
oHero HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-342 898; www.cityhubhotels.com; Jl Wim Reawaru 7B; standard/deluxe r 385,000/480,000Rp ; aW)
Deluxe rooms are a steal at this new Indo chain, with floating desks, queen beds and 32-inch wall-mounted LCD flat-screens. Standard rooms are slightly smaller and have twin beds, but share the same slick, modern styling. There's a 200,000Rp cash security deposit upon check-in, and wi-fi throughout the hotel. Breakfast is 25,000Rp extra.
Orchid HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-346 363; Jl Pattimura 5; standard/superior r 350,000/400,000Rp; aW)
Sharing a lobby with Garuda's Ambon office, the Orchid is another of the city's terrific-value modern sleeps. It has large rooms with high ceilings, wood furnishings, queen beds, minibar, wi-fi and ample natural light. The friendly reception staff also sell Ambon Manise ('Sw
eet Ambon') T-shirts and souvenirs.
Swiss-BelhotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-322 888; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl Benteng Kapaha; d from 615,000Rp; aW)
Ambon's most fashionable address offers sizeable rooms with stylish carpeting, floating wooden desks, large flat-screens and glass-box showers. The lobby is all psychedelic decor and muzak, linens are high quality, the breakfast buffet is really good and service is terrific. But there are some rough edges you wouldn't expect at this price. Book online for substantial discounts.
5Eating
Ambon Manise is well named: the variety of traditional cakes sold in every rumah kopi betrays the local sweet tooth. Cheap rumah makan abound, especially around Mardika Market and ports, and evening warungs appear on Jl Sultan Babullah, AY Patti and Pantai Mardika.
oBeta RumahINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 4840 5481; Jl Said Perintah 1; mains 20,000-50,000Rp; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat; v)
The Beta is the Alpha and Omega of real Ambonese food. Laid out in simple rumah makan style beneath a glass sneeze shield, you'll find local delicacies such as kohu-kohu, made with smoked skipjack tuna, green beans and shaved coconut, or squid with papaya leaves, steamed in a banana leaf with kenari nuts and colo colo (citrus dip).
Rumah Makan NifiaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl AY Patti 66; meals 15,000-30,000Rp; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat)
A superior pick-and-mix warung with alarming lime-and-orange decor and a devoted following. Dishes are fresh, rotate frequently, and include several varieties of roasted and baked fish, fried chicken, fried tempeh, curried and stir-fried vegetables, beef rendang (cooked in spicy coconut milk), and a tasty soto ayam (chicken soup), ideal for monsoon season.
Tantui SeafoodSEAFOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 3223 7888; Jl Tantui; mains from 25,000Rp; h11am-11pm; a)
Sit inside on faintly silly, bow-wrapped chairs or out on the waterside terrace for generous portions of shrimp-rich nasi goreng or spicy squid (cumi bakar). A little out of town, but well situated on the bay.
SarindaBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-355 109; Jl Sultan Hairun 11; pastries from 6500Rp; h8am-9.30pm)
With its lovely Dutch-colonial windows, ample garden seating and central location, this is a great place to select pastries presented on dozens of oven-warm racks. Now that it also does coffee, it's perfect for a late-morning fuel-stop.
Ratu GurihSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4338 8883, 0911-341 202; Jl Diponegoro 26; meals 35,000-190,000Rp; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat; W)
It has fluorescent tiles and the atmosphere is bland, but the fish – perfectly grilled by the coal-stoking chef, smothered in chilli and served alongside three tasty sambals – is fall-off-the-bone fresh. If you're tired of Indonesian fare, it offers Chinese, Thai and Japanese choices too. Try the tom yam (spicy, clear soup) or get fancy with lobster.
Sari GurihSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-341 888; Jl PH Latumahina; mains 35,000-80,000Rp; h9am-11pm)
More like a Western idea of a restaurant than is common in Maluku – complete with more Western clientele and prices – Sari Gurih is nonetheless a great place to eat Malukan seafood. Ice-chests keep the catch fresh while the grill never stops. Unfortunately, in the evenings, neither does the karaoke. Accepts cards.
THE MALUKAN PALATE
Despite what you’ll see in most restaurants, Maluku’s traditional staple isn’t rice but kasbi (boiled cassava) or papeda (sago congee, called popeda in Ternate), a thick, colourless, sodium-packed goo that you ladle into plates of kuah ikan (fish soup), then suck down as though trying to swallow a live jellyfish. Odd, but surprisingly good when accompanied with sayur garu (papaya flower), kohu-kohu (smoked fish with green beans and fresh coconut), papari (a unique mixed vegetable), keladi-root, and cassava leaf. For protein, fish and seafood are king, typically served with a chilli, shallot and citrus dip called colo colo or dabu dabu.
Originally unique to the Banda Islands, the spice-yielding kernel of nutmeg (pala) grows within a fruit that itself makes deliciously tart jams and distinctive sweet ‘wine’, available at Ambon’s Sibu-Sibu. Nutmeg grows best in the shade of magnificent kenari trees, which themselves yield an almond-like nut (used locally in confectionery and sauces) and timber (for kora kora canoes). Kenari-nut chunks also float atop rarobang, a distinctive hot spiced coffee.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Although proper bars are instiututa non-grata in sweaty old Ambon, you must tip your cap to a town that embraces cafe culture. Rumah kopi (coffee houses), each with their own (often eccentric) style, abound.
oSibu-SibuCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-312 525; Jl Said Perintah 47A; snacks from 3000Rp, breakfasts from 20,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)
Ambonese stars of screen and song deck the walls of this sweet little coffee shop, which plays Malukan and Hawaiian music to accompany local snacks such as the wonderful koyabu (cassava cake, 3000Rp), and lopis pulut (sticky rice with palm jaggery). It also has free wi-fi, good full breakfasts, fried breadfruit that you'll dip into melted palm sugar, and rocket-fuelled ginger coffee.
Kopi Tradisi JoasCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-341 518; Jl Said Perintah; coffee 5000-11,000Rp; h7.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
There's a convivial murmur throughout this local institution, where bigwigs talk politics for hours over rich mocha-style ‘secret-recipe’ coffees and slices of deep-fried breadfruit (sukun goreng, 2000Rp). Get a table out back, under the avocado tree, away from the fumes of the jalan.
7Shopping
Plaza AmbonMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sam Ratulangi; h9am-10pm)
Plaza Ambon is the city's cross between a proper shopping mall and old-school market. In addition to byzantine market stalls, it has the requisite fast-food choices, a Matahari store, and a big Foodmart grocer for self-caterers.
Ambon City CenterMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-362 957; amboncitycenter.cs@gmail.com; Jl Wolter Monginsidi; h8am-10pm)
Don't be fooled by the name: the shiny new Ambon City Center is actually in Passo, some way out of town. It's the biggest mall in Maluku, and the place to reconnect with your favourite brands or stock up on groceries at its enormous Hypermart. It's also a reassuring sign of normality and progress to the strife-weary Ambonese.
Ud IntiALCOHOL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl K Ulupaha; h8am-9pm)
A tiny, blink-and-you'll-miss-it minimart, this is one of only two places in town where you can buy beer, apart from in a restaurant. It even has Guinness.
8Information
Change or withdraw enough money in Ambon for trips to outlying islands where there are no exchange facilities. ATMs are sprinkled throughout bustling, mercantile Ambon.
BCA BankBANK
(Bank Central Asia; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sultan Hairun 24; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Exchanges euros and Australian and US dollars from 10am, but you may have to wait. Its battalion of ATMs allows 2,500,000Rp or 1,250,000Rp withdrawals, depending on denomination
Maluku Province Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(Dinas Parawisata; GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-312 300; Jl Jenderal Sudirman; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
A handy source of info on Ambon, the Bandas, Seram and other neighbouring islands, some in English.
PT Daya PatalTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0911-353 344; spicetr@gmail.com; Jl Said Perintah 53A; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Ever-obliging agency with several knowledgeable English-speaking staff. Sells airline, speedboat and Pelni tickets and can advise on schedules to the Banda and Kei Islands. Charges 50,000Rp commission on ticket sales, and occasionally opens Sundays.
Reno.netINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sultan Babullah; per hr 5000Rp; h10am-midnight)
Across from Ambon's Grand Mosque, Reno.net is central and reliable for internet access.
Tourist Info DeskTOURIST INFORMATION
(%0813 4302 8872; erenst_michael@ya
hoo.co.id; Pattimura Airport, Arrivals Hall; hMon-Sat)
An unmarked but useful desk, straight ahead once you leave baggage claim, and open to meet flights. The desk is run by Michael, Ambon's greatest ambassador. He has reams of information for you, a ready smile and an inexpensive nearby homestay. If you're after information, he's the island's best source.
8Getting There & Away
Road transport (including buses to Seram via the Hunimua car ferry) starts from various points along Jl Pantai Mardika. For Natsepa (5000Rp), Tulehu-Momoking (7000Rp) and Tulehu-Hurnala (10,000Rp) take Waai or Darussalam bemos. Latuhalat (5000Rp) and Amahusu bemos also pick up passengers beside the Trikora monument on Jl Dr Latumenten.
TRANSPORT FROM PULAU AMBON
AIR
Destination Airline Frequency
Bandaneira Susi 3 weekly
Jakarta Lion/Wings Air, Garuda, Sriwijaya daily
Langgur Garuda, Lion/Wings Air daily
Makassar Lion/Wings Air, Garuda daily
Sorong Garuda, Lion/Wings Air, Xpress Air daily
Ternate Garuda, Xpress Air 3 weekly
BOAT
Destination Port Type Fare (Rp) Frequency