Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  8Getting Around

  Angkot shuttle constantly between the ferry dock and the bus terminal (3000Rp).

  Danau Toba

  %0625 / Pop 305, 000

  Danau Toba has been part of traveller folklore for decades. This grand ocean-blue lake, found high up among Sumatra’s volcanic peaks, is where the amiable Christian Batak people reside. The secret of this almost mythical place was opened up to others by intrepid travellers, and Tuk Tuk – the village on the lake’s inner island – is still one of the undisputed highlights of Sumatra.

  Danau Toba is the largest lake in Southeast Asia, covering a massive 1707 sq km. In the middle of this huge expanse is Pulau Samosir, a wedge-shaped island almost as big as Singapore that was created by an eruption between 30,000 and 75,000 years ago. In fact, Samosir isn’t actually an island at all. It’s linked to the mainland by a narrow isthmus at the town of Pangururan – and then cut again by a canal.

  Directly facing Parapat is another peninsula occupied by the village of Tuk Tuk, which has Samosir’s greatest concentration of tourist facilities. Tomok, a few kilometres south of Tuk Tuk, is the main village on the east coast of the island.

  Danau Toba

  4Sleeping

  1Bagus Bay HomestayC2

  2Harriara GuesthouseD1

  3Liberta HomestayC2

  4Merlyn GuesthouseD1

  Romlan GuesthouseD1

  5Samosir CottagesC1

  6Tabo CottagesC2

  5Eating

  7Jenny's RestaurantC1

  8Juwita CafeD2

  9MarubaD1

  10Rumba PizzeriaD1

  11Today's CafeD2

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  12Brando's Blues BarC1

  3Entertainment

  13Roy's PubD2

  7Shopping

  14Penny's BooksD2

  1Sights

  The following sights and activities are located on or near Samosir Island.

  King Sidabutar GraveHISTORIC SITE

  (Samosir Island; admission by donation; hdawn-dusk)

  The Batak king who adopted Christianity is buried in Tomok village, 5km southeast of Tuk Tuk. The king’s image is carved on his tombstone, along with those of his bodyguard and Anteng Melila Senega, the woman the king is said to have loved for many years without fulfilment. The tomb is also decorated with carvings of singa (mythical creatures with grotesque three-horned heads and bulging eyes). To get here, look out for the small brown signpost shortly after you pass through Tomok.

  Next to the king’s tomb is the tomb of the missionary who converted the tribe in the 19th century and an older Batak royal tomb, which souvenir vendors say is used as a multilingual fertility shrine for childless couples.

  Very close by are some well-preserved traditional Batak houses.

  Stone ChairsHISTORIC SITE

  (Samosir Island; admission by donation, guide 20,000Rp; h8am-6pm)

  Ambarita, 5km north of Tuk Tuk, features a group of 300-year-old stone chairs where important matters were discussed among village elders. Here wrongdoers were tried and led to a further group of stone furnishings where they were bound, blindfolded, sliced, rubbed with garlic and chilli, and then beheaded.

  Rumours abound that the story is the product of an overactive imagination and that the chairs are just 60 years old. On the premises you can peek into a traditional Batak kitchen.

  Museum Huta Bolon SimanindoMUSEUM

  (Samosir Island; admission 50,000Rp; h10am-5pm)

  At Samosir’s northern tip, in the village of Simanindo, 15km north of Tuk Tuk, there’s a beautifully restored traditional house that now functions as a museum. It was formerly the home of Rajah Simalungun, a Batak king, and his 14 wives. The roof was originally decorated with 10 buffalo horns, representing the 10 generations of the dynasty. The museum has a small, interesting collection of brass cooking utensils, weapons, Mula Jadi sculptures and Batak carvings.

  Lacklustre displays of traditional Batak dancing are performed at 10.30am from Monday to Saturday if enough people show up; audience participation tends to be required.

  Batak GravesHISTORIC SITE

  The road that follows the northern rind of Samosir between Simanindo and the town of Pangururan is a scenic ride through the Bataks’ embrace of life after death. In the midst of the fertile rice fields are large multistorey graves decorated with the distinctive miniature Batak-style house and a simple white cross. Batak graves reflect the animistic attitudes of sheltering the dead (who are dug out 10 years after the original internment and reburied after the polishing of the bones).

  Cigarettes and cakes are offered to the deceased as memorials or as petitions for favours. Typical Christian holidays, such as Christmas, dictate special attention to the graves. Some of newer graves are particularly showy.

  THE BATAKS

  British traveller William Marsden astonished the ‘civilised’ world in 1783 when he returned to London with an account of a cannibalistic kingdom in the interior of Sumatra that, nevertheless, had a highly developed culture and a system of writing. The Bataks have been a subject of fascination ever since.

  The Bataks are a Proto-Malay people descended from Neolithic mountain tribes from northern Thailand and Myanmar (Burma) who were driven out by migrating Mongolian and Siamese tribes. When the Bataks arrived in Sumatra they trekked inland, making their first settlements around Danau Toba, where the surrounding mountains provided a natural protective barrier. They lived in virtual isolation for centuries.

  The Bataks were among the most warlike peoples in Sumatra and villages were constantly feuding. They were so mistrustful that they did not build or maintain natural paths between villages, or construct bridges. The practice of ritual cannibalism, which involved eating the flesh of a slain enemy or a person found guilty of a serious breach of adat (traditional law), survived among the Toba Bataks until 1816.

  Today there are more than six million Bataks, divided into six main linguistic groups, and their lands extend 200km north and 300km south of Danau Toba. Technically, they are only supposed to marry other Bataks (if outside their own clan) but over the years, several foreigners have married in; they had to be ‘adopted’ by a Batak clan first.

  The Bataks have long been squeezed between the Islamic strongholds of Aceh and West Sumatra, and despite several Acehnese attempts to conquer and convert, it was the European missionaries who finally quelled the waters with Christianity.

  The majority of today’s Bataks are Protestant Christians, although many still practise elements of traditional animist belief and ritual, particularly when it comes to honouring dead ancestors, who are buried in elaborate tombs and dug up after 10 to 15 years so that their bones can be cleaned, polished and reburied. The Bataks also believe the banyan to be the tree of life; they tell a legend of their omnipotent god Ompung, who created all living creatures by dislodging decayed branches of a huge banyan into the sea.

  Music is a great part of Batak culture and a Batak man is never far from his guitar. The Bataks are also famous for their powerful and emotive hymn singing. Most of their musical instruments are similar to those found elsewhere in Indonesia – cloth-covered copper gongs in varying sizes struck with wooden hammers; a small two-stringed violin, which makes a pure but harsh sound; and a kind of reedy clarinet.

  2Activities

  Cycling & Motorcycling

  Pulau Samosir’s sleepy roads make the island perfect for exploring by motorbike or bicycle. Zipping through the scenic countryside enclosed by lush volcanic mountains and the stunning lake is the highlight of many who visit. The rice paddies and friendly villages are cultivated around sober Protestant-style churches and tombs merging traditional Batak architecture and Christian crosses.

  Swimming

  Danau Toba reaches a depth of 450m in places and is refreshingly cool. The best swimming on the south coast is said to be at Carolina Cottages, and many cottages on the north coast maintain weed-free swimming. There are also a couple of attractive beaches
on Samosir’s north coast.

  Hiking

  There are several worthwhile hikes on Samosir Island and around Danau Toba. The trails aren’t well marked and can be difficult to find, so check with your guesthouse which ones are doable and ask for a map. In the wet season (December to March) the steep inclines are very muddy and slippery.

  The central highlands of Samosir are about 700m above the lake and on a clear day afford stunning views of mist-cloaked mountains. The top of the escarpment forms a large plateau and at its heart is a small lake, Danau Sidihoni. Much of the plateau is covered with cinnamon, clove and coffee plantations, interspersed with pine forest and the odd waterfall.

  Guides aren’t essential but they are a good idea if you’re alone as visitors have got lost in the past. The going rate is around 200,000Rp; Liberta Homestay and Tabo Cottages can arrange one.

  Pusuk BuhitTREKKING

  (Holy Mountain)

  Just to the west of Samosir Island rises Pusuk Buhit (1981m), the holy mountain sacred to Batak creation myths. Its ascent makes for a straightforward day trip and there are all-encompassing views of Danau Toba from its summit. It’s about four or five hours to the top; it’s best to start early. Tabo Cottages can arrange a guide.

  zFestivals & Events

  Harvest FestivalCULTURAL

  Taking place in June in Sianjur Mula Mula village, at the foot of the Bataks’ Holy Mountain, this harvest festival incorporates traditional singing and dancing, as well as the symbolic planting of the Tree of Life and the sacrifice of a young bull to ensure future harvests. The villagers are disarmingly friendly and visitors are very much encouraged to attend.

  Danau Toba FestivalCULTURAL

  The weeklong Danau Toba Festival is held every year in mid-June. Canoe races are a highlight of the festival, but there are also Batak cultural performances.

  BATAK PUPPET DANCE

  A purely Batak tradition is the sigalegale puppet dance, once performed at funerals but now more often a part of wedding ceremonies. The life-sized puppet, carved from the wood of a banyan tree, is dressed in the traditional costume of red turban, loose shirt and blue sarong. The sigalegale stand up on long, wooden boxes where the operator makes them dance to gamelan (percussion orchestra) music accompanied by flute and drums.

  One story of the origin of the sigalegale puppet concerns a widow who lived on Samosir. Bereft and lonely after the death of her husband, she made a wooden image of him and whenever she felt lonely hired a dalang (puppeteer and storyteller) to make the puppet dance and a dukun (mystic) to communicate with the soul of her husband.

  Whatever its origins, the sigalegale soon became part of Batak culture and were used at funeral ceremonies to revive the souls of the dead and to communicate with them. Personal possessions of the deceased were used to decorate the puppet, and the dukun would invite the deceased’s soul to enter the wooden puppet as it danced on top of the grave.

  4Sleeping

  Liberta HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451035; liberta_homestay@yahoo.com.co.id; r without bathroom 50,000Rp, with bathroom 70,000-90,000Rp; W)

  This backpacker fave may have only limited lake views, but a chill universe is created here by a lush garden and arty versions of traditional Batak houses. Crawling around the balconies and shortened doors of the rooms makes you feel like being a deckhand on a Chinese junk (or a Hobbit). The popular Mr Moon is a great source of travel information.

  Merlyn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451057, 0813 6116 9130; Rio@merlynguesthouse.com; r 80,000-90,000Rp; W)

  Situated right on the lake shore, this German-Indonesian-run place has traditional, characterful wooden Batak houses with dwarf-sized doors and shared bathrooms, as well as modern rooms in sunny colours with hot-water bathrooms.

  Harriara GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451183; http://hariara-guesthouse.webs.com; Tuk Tuk; r 150,000Rp; W)

  This guesthouse has a top-notch lakeside setting, riotous tropical flower gardens and sparkling rooms with mozzie nets and porches overlooking the water. There’s good swimming from here too. If there’s nobody at the reception enquire at the nearby restaurants.

  Romlan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451386; www.romlantuktuk.com; Tuk Tuk; r 80,000-150,000; aW)

  Run by a German-Indonesian family, this waterfront guesthouse is one of the original places to stay in Tuk Tuk and it’s still going strong. Choose between a Western-style room with hot shower and verandah, one of two traditional Batak houses, or save your pennies in the budget room.

  oTabo CottagesBUNGALOW$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451318; www.tabocottages.com; r 350,000-390,000, cottage 500,000-950,000Rp; aiW)

  The swankiest accommodation on the island, this German-run lakeside place has beautiful traditional-style Batak houses that come with huge bathrooms and hammocks swinging lazily on the terrace. Simpler rooms have shaded porches. Owner Annette is a treasure trove of information on Batak culture, and the homemade bread and cakes are worthy of mention as well.

  Samosir CottagesHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451170; www.samosircottages.com; Tuk Tuk; r 100,000-425,000Rp; iWs)

  A good choice for travellers who want to hang out with young like-minded folk and boisterous young staff. The fully refurbished, squeaky-clean rooms span a wide variety of prices and styles, and range from smaller, tiled cheapies to quite plush rooms. It has every traveller service you can imagine – travel agency, tour guides, sun loungers, and a busy restaurant.

  oHoras Family HomeCOTTAGE$$$

  (%0813 6105 1419; www.holidaysumatra.com; cottage 700,000-1,000,000Rp; W)

  Stay in a gorgeous, renovated traditional Batak house, complete with original furnishings, or opt for the smaller Horas Indah. Hosts Berend and Mian are exceptionally helpful and knowledgeable about Batak culture. The superb meals incorporate fresh fish, freshwater prawns and organic vegetables grown in the garden. Transfers and tours organised on request.

  5Eating

  The guesthouses tend to mix eating and entertainment in the evening. Many restaurants serve the Batak speciality of barbecued carp (most from fish farms), sometimes accompanied by traditional dance performances.

  Magic or ‘special’ omelettes are commonly seen on restaurant menus. We probably don’t need to tell you that the mushrooms contained in these are not of the sort that you can buy at your local supermarket.

  oJenny’s RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tuk Tuk; mains 26,000-55,000Rp; h5-10pm)

  There are lots of different options on the menu at Jenny’s, but one dish really shines – lake fish grilled right in front of you and served with chips and salad. Follow it up with the generously portioned fruit pancake. We enjoyed few meals in Sumatra more than this one.

  Juwita CafeINDONESIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-46,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

  This cosy family restaurant does Batak and other Indonesian dishes extremely well. We’re particularly big fans of the aubergine sambal. Friendly matriarch Heddy also hosts cooking courses; a three-hour course includes a chicken, fish and vegetable dish, as well as dessert. Book a day in advance.

  Today’s CafeINTERNATIONAL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tuk Tuk; mains 30,000-50,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; v)

  This little wooden shack has a laid-back vibe in keeping with Tuk Tuk life. It’s run by a couple of friendly ladies who whip up some fabulous and eclectic dishes such as sak sang (chopped pork with brown coconut sauce, cream and a wealth of spices), aubergine curry and chapatis with guacamole.

  Rumba PizzeriaINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tuk Tuk; mains 35,000-80,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; Wv)

  Rumba stays open late on Saturday to show English Premier League football (soccer). Delicious pick-your-own-ingredients pizzas are served.

  oMarubaINDONESIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP
; mains 40,000-125,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

  Tucked away between Amartoba Hotel and Rodeo guesthouse, Maruba is well worth seeking out for peerless Batak dishes cooked by the talented proprietress. River crabs, na neura (raw fish marinated with candlenut, lime juice and spices) and saksang (chopped pork cooked with spices and pig’s blood) are real local treats. There’s also gool ol’ roast chicken for the less adventurous.

  6Drinking & Entertainment

  On most nights, music and spirits fill the night air with the kind of camaraderie that only grows in small villages. The Toba Bataks are extremely musical, and passionate choruses erupt from invisible corners. The parties are all local – celebrating a wedding, a new addition on a house or the return of a Toba expat. Invitations are gladly given and should be cordially accepted.

  Bagus Bay Homestay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451287; www.bagusbay.com; Tuk Tuk; s/d without bathroom 30,000/40,000Rp, d 100,000-175,000Rp; iW) and Samosir Cottages both have traditional Batak music and dance performances on Wednesday and Saturday evenings at 8.15pm.

  Brando’s Blues BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451084; Tuk Tuk; h6pm-late)

  One of a handful of foreigner-oriented bars that gets particularly lively on weekends. Happy hour is a civilised 6pm to 10pm and you can take to the small dance floor during the reggae and house sets.