AIR
Destination Company Price (Rp) Duration Frequency
Balikpapan Lion, Sriwijaya 400,000 1hr daily
Jakarta Citilink, Garuda, Lion 600,000 1¾hr daily
Makassar Sriwijaya 680,000 1¼hr Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun
Pangkalan Bun Kalstar, Trigana 700,000 1hr 1-2 daily
Surabaya Citilink, Garuda 450,000 1hr daily
Yogyakarta Garuda, Lion 660,000 1¼hr daily
BUS
Destination Price (Rp) Duration Frequency
Balikpapan 155,000-185,000 12hr 4 daily 2pm-5pm
Kandangan 50,000 4hr several daily 9am-6pm
Muara Tewah 110,000 12hr 2 daily
Negara 60,000 5hr several daily 9am-6pm
Palangka Raya 70,000-85,000 5hr 5 daily 5am-11am
Pangkalan Bun 180,000-235,000 12hr 5 daily 5am-11am
Samarinda 180,000-215,000 15hr 4 daily 2pm-5pm
8Getting Around
Angkot (5000Rp) routes are labelled by their destination, and fan out from terminals at Jl Pangeran Samudera circle, in the city core, and Antasari Centre, to the east. Becak and ojeks for hire gather around market areas. Taxis to/from Syamsuddin Noor Airport (26km) cost 120,000Rp.
WORTH A TRIP
BANJARBARU
Three curious stops accessible from the Banjarbaru roundabout (20,000Rp, 38km southeast of Banjarmasin) can be seen in a half-day return from Banjarmasin or on your way to or from Kandangan.
Cempaka Diamond FieldsMINE
(Desa Pumpung; hSat-Thu)
Wooden sluices filter muck from pits where men stand chest deep blasting away at the sediment with water cannons. Mining at its most basic, cheapest, picturesque, and – for the bold – participatory. At the Banjarbaru roundabout take a green passenger truck southbound to Desa Pumpung (6000Rp, 15 minutes, 7km), then walk 700m south from the main road.
Museum Lambung MangkuratMUSEUM
(%051 1477 2453; Jl Ahmad Yani 36; admission 5000Rp; h8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8.30-11am Fri, 8.30am-3.30pm Sat)
An above-average museum of local arts and history with approximate English translations providing nuggets of information about pivotal events – like the Banjar people sinking a Dutch warship in 1860, armed with only canoes and knives. Also, learn the architectural differences between a scholar's and a married princess' house. Head 1km west of the Banjarbaru roundabout.
Penggosokkan IntanTOURIST INFORMATION
(Diamond Polishing and Information Center; h9am-4pm Sat-Thu)
Lots of shops polish diamonds, but this is the official place for tourists to watch; 700m north of the Banjarbaru roundabout.
Kandangan
%0517 / Pop 45,000
A local transport hub, Kandagan is also a fairly attractive town worth exploring. Tidy and well planned, it has decent budget hotels, a bustling market and numerous restaurants. It is also the gateway to the mountain oasis of Loksado and the buffalo herds of Nagara. Reserve ahead as rooms are few.
4Sleeping & Eating
The Kandagan bus terminal doubles as a food court, and is lined with warungs to keep you well fed for days.
oWisma DutaHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0571-21073; Jl Permuda 9; r fan/air-con with breakfast 130,000/250,000Rp; aW)
This converted country home is a rare and welcome find. Rattan walls are a nice touch, even when adorned with assorted glass armaments. Head down the alley northeast from the bus terminal and turn left.
Hotel MutiaHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0517-21270; Jl Soeprapto; r incl breakfast 200,000-330,000Rp; aW)
Basic box rooms, convenient to the bus station and market.
MedinaHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0517-21219; Jl M Johansyah 26; r incl breakfast 350,000Rp)
The newest concrete box in town is clean, if uninspired. Hot showers. Just up the block from the bus terminal.
8Getting There & Around
Minibuses run frequently to/from Banjarmasin's Km6 terminal (50,000Rp, four hours) until midafternoon. Buses for Balikpapan and Samarinda (125,000Rp to 165,000Rp) pass the Kandangan terminal regularly. Ojek are abundant, while becak are slowly dwindling.
Pick-up trucks for Loksado (30,000Rp, 1½ hours, 9am) leave from Muara Bilui, a nondescript stop on a residential street 800m east of the bus terminal.
Negara
Northwest of Kandangan, the riverside town of Negara is the gateway to a vast wetland ranch, where water buffalo swim from their elevated corrals at sunrise in search of grazing areas and are herded back at dusk by cowboys in canoes – an intriguing sight if you're there in late afternoon. Rent a boat at the dock near the mosque to see the swimming herds (200,000Rp).
The trip to Negara is memorable, too, along an elevated road through seasonally flooded wetlands lined with communities on stilts. To get here from Kandagan take a public minibus (15,000Rp, one hour) or taxi (150,000Rp return). Annoyingly there is no hotel in town.
Loksado
Nestled at the end of the road in the foothills of the Meratus Mountains, Loksado is as close to an earthly Elysium as you'll find in Kalimantan. The main village sits inside a large bend in the clear chattering stream which acts as a moat protecting it from the onslaught of the modern world. Numerous trails – some paved – connect remote villages with even more remote settlements, making the area ideal for adventurers with a habit of wandering to the end of things. A mountain bike would be the perfect tool for exploration, but alas, nobody rents them in town (yet). Base here for treks to mountain peaks, waterfalls, or remote Dayak villages. Or do none of the above and just enjoy carefree mountain-town life Kalimantan style.
2Activities
Muara Tanuhi Hot SpringsHOT SPRING
(admission 5000Rp)
These developed hot springs, located in an undermaintained resort 7km west of Loksado, make a relaxing end to a long trek. Stay across the street at Pondok Bamboo (100,000Rp) and enjoy all-night access to the pools.
Mountain Hikes
Hiking trails in the Meratus combine forest, villages, rivers, suspension bridges and balai adat (community house) visits. One-day walks from Loksado reach a seemingly endless number of waterfalls, and range from moderate to billy-goating up the side of impossible slopes. A long history of shifting cultivation means it is a good five-hour walk to primary forest, but there's still plenty of picture-worthy scenery closer to town. For all but the closest destinations, a local guide is highly recommended. A popular multiday trek includes summiting Gunung Besar (aka Halau Halau, 1901m, three to four days) the tallest mountain in the Meratus range and one of the few Kalimantan peaks with a view.
Be prepared for your particular route, read up on jungle trekking, and don't be afraid to rein in your guide if the pace or terrain is beyond your skill level.
Bamboo Rafting
Being poled downriver on a narrow hand-tied bamboo raft ranges from relaxing to spirited, depending on water levels. Three hours (300,000Rp) might test your attention span, but the 90-minute option is just about right.
Guides
Although guides from Banjarmasin range into this area, nothing beats the perspective of a local. English speakers are smart for more involved trips, but day treks can be a world of fun with a dictionary, sign language, and an enthusiastic villager.
Pak AmatGUIDE
(%0813 4876 6573)
A personable, English-speaking Dayak and long-standing Loksado resident, with complete knowledge of the area.
Samuil NoilGUIDE
(%0812 5127 3802)
Unassuming and with a great attitude, Loksado native Noil will happily put his gardening on hold to show you the land he is so passionate about. Speaks English.
ShadyGUIDE
(%0821 5306 0515; www.borneo-discoverytours.com)
A young and enthusiastic English-speaking guide from Kandangan with extensive trekking experience and a great sense of humour.
4Sleeping & Eating
Sleeping options are expanding, with two new losmen opening near the tourist
info centre, and a bona fide resort downriver. Avoid the sad concrete Wisma Loksado hotel on the eroding island.
A smattering of warung along the river provide basic Indonesian fare, with the best one found across the street from Mount Martuas Resort.
oWisma AlyaGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 5330 8276; r 150,000Rp)
This two-storey backpackers haven, with just five bare wooden rooms, hangs over the rushing Sungai Amandit, making the upstairs porch the best hang-out in town. Don't let them slough you off to the cabang (branch lodge) down river; it's set back from the road and removed from the village.
New competition nearby puts you in a good negotiating position, but the husband and wife team are so helpful for finding guides and other services, you may feel guilty about haggling.
Mangkuraksa MalarisHOMESTAY$
(%0856 5129 8492; floor space 150,000Rp)
At tiny Loklahong village, 2km downriver from Loksado, you can sleep with the locals in a breezy bamboo-walled hut next to the balai adat. You'll only get a chunk of floor in the living room, but you'll also meet some phenomenal folks, and have one of Kalimantan's premier swimming holes at the end of your block.
Mount Martuas ResortHOTEL$$
(%0812 5150 4866; r/villa 400,000/1,500,000Rp; a)
Loksado's official entrant into the near-luxury class. Located 800m downriver from town, it's not in the thick of village life, but you will have your own private bend of the river here. The well-crafted, rough-wood rooms come with fans and open-air stone bathrooms. Add 50,000Rp to upgrade to hot water.
The two villas are set back from the river, and offer air-con and a large kitchen/living area. Dine at the open-air restaurant, or at the tasty warung across the street.
8Getting There & Around
Pick-up trucks leave for Loksado from Muara Bilui in Kandangan (30,000Rp, 1½ hours, 9am). They leave Loksado for Kandangan at 7am. Enquire at Wisma Alya for an ojek to trailheads.
East Kalimantan
Balikpapan
%0542 / Pop 560,000
As Kalimantan's only cosmopolitan city, Balikpapan is almost worthy of being considered a destination unto itself. A long history of oil money and foreign workers has had a tremendous impact, bringing Western aesthetics to this Eastern port town. The city is clean and vibrant, with several enormous shopping areas and some decent beaches. High-end hotels with reasonable rates abound, and the nightlife surprises. The city sprawls in all directions, but most of the action takes place in the centre off Jl Sudirman, which comes alive at night. Overall the city makes a fine weekend break, and a great place to begin or end more adventurous travels. See how many sun bear motifs you can spot.
Balikpapan
1Sights
1Masjid Agung At-TaqwaB3
4Sleeping
2Aiqo HotelC2
3Hotel Gajah MadaC3
4Hotel Gran SenyiurB2
5Hotel PacificC2
6Ibis HotelC2
7Novotel BalikpapanC2
5Eating
8BondyC2
9Ocean's RestoC3
10Sky Bar/Sky GrillB2
11Soto QueenC1
6Drinking & Nightlife
12Book CafeB3
13Ruko BandarB3
7Shopping
14Balikpapan PlazaC3
8Information
15Aero TravelC2
16Kantorimigrasi KelasA3
17New Sedayu WisataA3
18Totogasono SekawanC2
1Sights
Most sights of note lie outside of Balikpapan's borders.
Kemala BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman)
A clean, white-sand beach with adjacent cafes and restaurants, and a laid-back vibe. If you need a break from the jungle (urban or natural) this is your best local option. Although it gets hot at midday, you probably won't want to swim in the polluted waters.
Masjid Agung At-TaqwaMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman)F
An impressive sight, this mosque is adorned with a complex sheath of Islamic geometrical patterns, and is lit up in multicoloured splendour at night.
WORTH A TRIP
AROUND BALIKPAPAN
A potpourri of sights around Balikpapan make for fine day trips. Some are accessible by public transit while others will require a vehicle. A guide can help.
KWPLH BalikpapanWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%0542-710 8304; www.beruangmadu.org; Jl Soekarno-Hatta Km23; h9am-5pm, feedings 9am & 3pm)F
This informative sun bear conservation centre is surprisingly straight to the point about the heart-breaking plight of all of Kalimantan's animals. Seven resident bears hide in their 1.3-hectare walled enclosure until feeding time, when you can observe them near the clinic. Take angkot 8 to the large gate at Km23 (7000Rp), then walk or hitch 1.7km south.
Bukit BangkiraiFOREST
(%0542-736066; canopy bridge 75,000Rp; hsunrise-sunset)
Perhaps it is the adrenaline from standing in a 30m-tall old-growth dipterocarp tree…perhaps it is the impressive view…but it is hard not to feel emotional about the countless other trees no longer standing nearby – clear-cut by the very company preserving these relics. Take angkot 8 to Km38 (15,000Rp), then an ojek 20km west.
Samboja LestariWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%0542-702 3600; www.orangutan.or.id; Jl Balikpapan-Handil Km44; adult incl meal morning/afternoon 550,000/800,000Rp, child incl meal morning/afternoon 275,000/475,000Rp)
A Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation project, Samboja Lestari houses around 200 orangutans and 50 sun bears. Half day tours (9am to 1pm and 2pm to 8pm, reserve ahead) show off the centre's residents and accomplishments; or stay overnight at the stunning lodge.
Sungai WainFOREST
(%Agus 0812 580 6329; [email protected]; mandatory guides 100,000Rp)
In the mid-'90s, 82 orangutans were released in this protected forest, but fires and illegal logging have taken their toll. Get a 6am start to maximise wildlife viewing. Take angkot 8 to Km15 (6000Rp), and an ojek 6km west.
TTours
RusdiansyahGUIDE
(%0812 5331 2333; www.borneokalimantan.com)
Now chair of the East Borneo Guiding Association, Pak Rusdy has been guiding throughout the island for 20 years and knows the land well.
IndraGUIDE
(%081 2585 9800; [email protected])
The first choice for Japanese tourists; his English is serviceable too.
4Sleeping
The budget digs here are generally dismal and depressing, and we can't recommend them. Splurge. Ask about discounts everywhere.
oWisma Kemala BhayangkariHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 5490 2392, 0542-421260; Jl Sudirman 6; r 250,000-385,000Rp; a)
Recently re-established as public lodging after a period as the residence of the police chief (who moved into a new mansion next door), this place is a steal for its clean and simple rooms on the beach. Don't come expecting luxury (there is no hot water), but the VIP rooms up front are spacious and freshly painted. On angkot route 3.
Access Kemala Beach and its cafes just off the back lawn.
Ibis HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-820821; www.ibishotels.com; Jl Suparjan 2; r 350,000Rp; aiWs)
Balikpapan's great steal. The cosy, design-conscious rooms are stylish and sophisticated, with bursts of bright colour and funky space-station bathrooms. Best of all, guests are welcome to use the considerable amenities of the adjoining five-star Novotel. Basically, you're staying at the Novotel for a third of the price. Breakfast 60,000Rp.
Hotel PacificHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-750888; Jl Ahmad Yani 33; d incl breakfast 400,000-500,000Rp; aW)
An excellent, classic Asian hotel with very accommodating staff and a convenient location for food options. The wooden floor and dark trim are dated, but manage to be warming rather than foreboding. Spotless bathrooms all come with bathtubs.
Hotel Gajah MadaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE M
AP ; %0542-734634; Jl Sudirman 328; s 229,000-418,000Rp, d 270,000-467,000Rp; a)
These clean, bare rooms are located on prime real estate next to Balikpapan Plaza. Cheaper rooms have fans only, but the ocean breeze down the shotgun hallway keeps things cool. A large back deck overlooks the ocean, with a filthy beach next door.
Aston BalikpapanHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-733999; www.astonbalikpapan.com; Jl Sudirman 7; r incl breakfast 687,000-856,000Rp; aWs)
Geared toward families and long-stay residents, all of the large rooms here have a hotplate, kitchen sink and fridge. The lobby wows with its creative Dayak trim and tropical vibe, but the finery stops there. You would expect to see more maintenance for the price, but the rooms are already fraying around the edges.
The private grassy playground is a plus for families with small children.
Aiqo HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-750288; Jl Pranoto 9; s 248,000Rp, d 268,000-328,000Rp; aW)
A clean midmarket option with tiny soak-everything-when-you-shower bathrooms. The 30,000Rp surcharge for a superior room adds nothing but an in-room coffee maker. Wi-fi in the lobby only.
oHotel Gran SenyiurHOTEL$$$
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 119