( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-820211; gran.senyiurhotels.com; Jl ARS Muhammad 7; r incl breakfast from 860,000Rp; aWs)
Unique in Kalimantan, this old-world Asian luxury hotel proves to the younger generic business hotels that experience and wisdom count…a lot. Fine woodwork warms spaces throughout, and rooms are priced well for their elevated class. From the lobby lounge to the world-class Sky Bar, which adds a modern note to the roof, everything is upscale without being ostentatious.
Deluxe rooms are really just superior rooms with a useless kitchen space. For those in a suite mood, the opulent 'governor's room' has Victorian furniture, while the 'executive' gets you the exact same layout and killer view, with a slight downgrade in furniture.
Le Grandeur BalikpapanHOTEL$$$
(%0542-420155; Jl Sudirman; r with breakfast from 870,000Rp; aWs)
A venerable luxury hotel, oozing sophistication. The 4th-floor business-class rooms have been renovated to great effect, while open-air waterfront dining and live jazz make for a classy stay. Unfortunately, an abundance of trash tarnishes the beachfront location. On Jl Sudirman about 2km east of Plaza Balikpapan.
Novotel BalikpapanHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-820820; www.novotel.com/asia; Jl Suparjan 2; r incl breakfast 985,000-1,160,000Rp; aWs)
A family-friendly hotel, with an ubermodern interior and all amenities, including a patisserie, cafe, gym and 2nd-floor rooftop pool with a swim-up bar (50,000Rp for nonguests). However the stained superior rooms with laminate furniture don't quite live up to the price.
The fitness centre has multiple modern machines and free weights. Parents are liberated by the free kids club.
5Eating
oSoto QueenINDONESIAN$
(Warung Kuin Abduh, SQ; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; soto Banjar 15,000Rp; h2-11pm)
We're not sure if they serve anything besides soto Banjar (chicken soup seasoned with a delicate blend of spices including cinnamon)…we've never felt the need to ask. You'll likely have to wait for a seat.
JimbaranBALINESE$
(Dapur Bali; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman, Kemala Beach; mains 25,000Rp; h10am-11pm)
Billowing white curtains beckon you to this open-air Balinese restaurant at the end of Kemala Beach. Locals swear by the ayam taliwang, a fried-grilled chicken from Lombok, and the ayam betutu, a spicy recipe that will transport you to Bali. Live music Saturday and Monday.
BondyINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-424285; Jl Ahmad Yani 1; mains 35,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
Dine among sculpted trees and thriving flowers in a tranquil courtyard in the middle of the city. Popular with locals and expats, mostly for their extensive homemade ice cream menu. A banana split is 30,000Rp; steaks start at 90,000Rp.
oOcean's RestoSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-739439; Ruko Bandar; mains 40,000Rp; h9am-11pm; W)
An entire reef's worth of fish, steaks aplenty, plus burgers, pizza, and 14 types of fried rice all served above the surf. Ocean's anchors a row of cafes along the waterfront, and is (deservedly) the most popular. The tiny open-air 2nd-floor curry house is a good place for appetisers.
Pondok KelapaSEAFOOD$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-733956; Jl Yos Sudarso 72; mains 35,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
Strategically located on the tip of Balikpapan bay, come here for epic sunset dining; watch the oil tankers pass while dining on gigantic udang gala (river prawns).
Sky Bar/Sky GrillSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl ARS Muhammad, Grand Senyiur Hotel; mains 55,000Rp; h3-11pm)
The Grand Senyiur Hotel has an awesome rooftop, combining glass-walled al fresco dining and a sophisticated piano bar with panoramic city views.
Open HouseINTERNATIONAL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-744823; Jl Puncak Markoni Atas 88; mains from 160,000Rp; h11am-11pm)
Balikpapan's most romantic place to blow your last rupiah on a date is defined by architecturally dizzying spaces atop a prominent hill. Reserve your puncak (summit) table for two at the top of the spiral staircase. The above-average food blends Mediterranean, international and Indian menus; bring your own wine. A blanket 20% discount on weekdays drops to 15% on weekends.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Balikpapan's expat community has fuelled a more relaxed attitude toward alcohol and nightlife than is found in other parts of Kalimantan. Most hotels serve spirits, and package liquor is available (for a price) at the Swiss-Belhotel. To get the pulse of the local scene, head to the Ruko Bandar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman, waterfront) complex.
Book CafeCOFFEE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-739168; Ruko Bandar; snacks 15,000Rp; h10am-midnight; aW)
Monopoly anyone? A chill nonalcoholic hang-out in the Ruko Bandar complex, Book Cafe has games aplenty and, yes, books in English and Bahasa Indonesia to buy, borrow or trade. For a truly humbling experience, get trounced by a local student in a game of Scrabble…in English.
7Shopping
Shopping is concentrated around Balikpapan Plaza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jls Sudirman & Ahmad Yani) which has a Hypermart (for groceries).
Pasar Kebun SayurSOUVENIRS
( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm)
An eclectic market for local handicrafts, gemstones and souvenirs. North of the city centre on yellow angkot 5.
8Information
Aero TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-443350; Jl Ahmad Yani 19)
Airline tickets.
Haji La TunrungEXCHANGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-731975; Jl Ahmad Yani 6A; h7.30am-9pm)
Exchange chain dealing in multiple currencies.
Kantorimigrasi KelasIMMIGRATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-421175; Jl Sudirman 23)
Immigration office.
New Sedayu WisataTRAVEL AGENCY
(NSW; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-420601; Jl Sudirman 2B)
Best source for all things ferry.
Pertamina HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-421212; Jl Sudirman 1)
Rebel Net InternetINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Ahmad Yani; per hour 5000Rp)
Totogasono SekawanTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-421539; [email protected]; Jl Ahmad Yani 40)
Efficient English-speaking agent for airline bookings. Has contracts with Pak Rusdy for trips up the Mahakam and beyond.
8Getting There & Away
Air
CitilinkAIRLINE
(%0542-764362; Airport)
GarudaAIRLINE
(%0542-766844; Airport)
KalstarAIRLINE
(%0542-737473; Jl Marsaiswahyudi 12)
Lion AirAIRLINE
(%0542-703 3761; Airport)
SilkAirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-730800; Jl Jend Sudirman 37, BRI Tower 6th fl)
SriwijayaAIRLINE
(%0542-749777; Airport)
Susi AirAIRLINE
(%0542-761196; Airport)
Boat
Semayang Harbour, at the entrance to the gulf, is the main cargo and passenger port.
Dharma Lautan UtamaFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-442222; Jl Soekarno-Hatta Km0.5)
PelniFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-422110; Jl Yos Sudarso, near Pelabuhan Semayang)
Prima VistaFERRY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-428888; Jl Sudirman 138)
Bus
Buses to Samarinda (30,000Rp, three hours, departing every 15 minutes, 5.30am to 8pm) and minibuses to points north leave from Batu Ampar Terminal on angkot route 3 (light blue). Your best company for Banjarmasin (150,000Rp to 205,000Rp, 15 hours, eight daily, noon to 8pm) is Pulau Indah ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-420289; Jl Soekarno-Hatta Km 2.5).
TRANSPORT FROM BALIKPAPAN
AIR
Destination Company Fare (Rp) Duration Frequency
Banjarmasin Garuda, Lion 465,000 50min 4 daily
Berau Garuda, Sriwijaya, Wings 470,000 50min 7 daily
Denpasar Citilink 770,000 1�
�hr Mon, Fri, Sun
Jakarta Cililink, Garuda, Lion, Sriwijaya 810,000 2hr many daily
Kuala Lumpur Air Asia 550,000 2½hr Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun
Makassar Citilink, Garuda, Lion, Sriwijaya 480,000 1¼hr 7 daily
Melak Kalstar 760,000 30min 2 daily
Pontianak Kalstar 1,200,000 2hr 1 daily
Samarinda Kalstar, Susi 350,000 20min 3 daily
Singapore Silk 3,500,000 2¼hr Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat
Surabaya Citilink, Garuda, Lion, Sriwijaya 620,000 1½hr many daily
Tarakan Garuda, Lion, Sriwijaya 500,000 1hr many daily
Yogyakarta Citilink, Garuda, Lion 720,000 1¾hr 6 daily
BOAT
Destination Company Price (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Makassar Dharma Lautan Utama, Prima Visat, Pelni 215,000 24 5-6 weekly
Pare Pare Prima Vista, Pelni 295,000 18 almost daily
Surabaya Dharma Lautan Utama, Prima Vista, Pelni 400,000 40 almost daily
Tarakan-Nunukan Pelni 273,000 12 3 weekly
8Getting Around
Taxis to the city centre from the airport cost 70,000Rp. Alternately, walk 150m to the road, and hail a green-and-white angkot 7 heading west (5000Rp).
City angkot run regular routes converging at Balikpapan Plaza, and charge 5000Rp a ride.
Samarinda
%0541 / Pop 840,000
Samarinda! The very name oozes exoticism. And happily you will find some of that here in this sprawling riverfront city, including the enormous mosque of the new Islamic Center, which stands like a sentinel at the gates of the mighty Sungai Mahakam (Mahakam River), a most impressive sight. But as with many fairy tales, there is a dark side to this story. Over half of Samarinda's land has been opened for coal mining, resulting in numerous health and environmental effects, and causing hotels to advertise their 'flood-free event halls.' Meanwhile, a proliferation of monster malls has been gutting downtown, leaving some streets eerily vacant; take a taxi after dark.
Samarinda
4Sleeping
1Akasia 8 GuesthouseC2
2Aston SamarindaD2
3HorisonD1
4Kost SamarindaD2
5Swiss-BelhotelD2
5Eating
6Hero SupermarketB2
7Sari Pacific RestaurantC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
8Dejavu Kitchen Bar & KTVC2
9MaximumC2
7Shopping
10Citra NiagaC2
11Pasar PagiB2
1Sights
Islamic CenterMOSQUE
(Masjid Baitul Muttaqien; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Slamet Riyadi; mosque/tower free/10,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
The western skyline of Samarinda is dominated by this must-see complex containing an ornate and colourful mosque with adjacent observation tower. The latter is the highest point in the city, offering panoramic views up and down a great bend in the Mahakam. The muezzin's sunset call is a captivating moment.
Masjid Shirathal MustaqiemMOSQUE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Samarinda Seberang)F
Built in 1881 to tame a neighbourhood notorious for gambling and drinking, the mosque's four main pillars were reportedly set by a mysterious elderly woman while nobody was looking. The yellow ironwood minaret is a distinct Kalimantan-Muslim take on the pagoda. Take a boat (25,000Rp, five minutes) direct to the mosque in Samarinda Seberang.
WORTH A TRIP
PAMPANG DAYAK CEREMONIES
Every Sunday at 2pm, the Kenyah Dayak village of Pampang (relocated here from the highlands in the 1970s), puts on a show (5000Rp) of traditional dances aimed squarely at camera-toting tourists. Enjoy it for what it is: an engaging, staged performance that allows a long-marginalised group to benefit economically from their rich heritage. It is also one of the last places to see women with traditional long earlobes (photos 25,000Rp). Take a public minibus (15,000Rp) from Lempake Terminal to the intersection 25km north of Samarinda.
TTours
AbdullahGUIDE
(%0813 4727 2817, 0821 5772 0171; [email protected])
Friendly, resourceful and realistic. Abdullah speaks excellent English, and understands backpackers. Also a Dayak antiques agent.
RustamGUIDE
(%0812 585 4915; [email protected])
Rustam universally gets good reviews.
SuryadiGUIDE
(%0816 459 8263)
Even after guiding for almost 30 years, wise Pak Suryadi is probably still in better shape than you are. Speaks German as well as English.
De'Gigant ToursADVENTURE TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 584 6578; www.borneotourgigant.com; Jl Martadinata Raudah 21)
De'Gigant (also X-Treme Borneo and Kalimantan Tours) specialises in trips in East Kalimantan and has safely shepherded dozens of clients through the renowned Cross-Borneo Trek. However, readers report inconsistent guide quality.
4Sleeping
Top-end hotels can be good value, but suffer from inattention. The almost-finished Ibis/Mercure megacomplex will likely reset the hospitality bar.
oKost SamarindaHOTEL$
(Samarinda Guesthouse; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-734337; www.kostsamarinda.com; s/d 125,000/200,000Rp; aW)
The excessively accommodating owners understand what backpackers need: a clean, cheap, friendly, no-frills place strategically located in the middle of the action. Rooms share a large cold-water mandi (Indonesian bath, consisting of a large water tank from which water is ladled over the body) and speedy wi-fi. The icing: motorbikes for rent (50,000Rp).
Akasia 8 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-701 9590; Jl Yos Sudarso 34; s/d with breakfast 145,000/180,000Rp)
The overly small mandi at this clean and bare dockside losmen will torment your inner claustrophobe; spring for the en suite option to buy some wiggle room.
Hotel MesraHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-732772; www.hotelmesrasamarinda.com; Jl Pahlawan 1; s incl breakfast 425,000Rp, d incl breakfast 525,000-925,000Rp; aWs)
This polished resort, owned by the Mesra Coal conglomerate, is located on a private hilltop downtown. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the manicured grounds, which include two pools open to the public (50,000Rp), gardens, tennis courts, a spa and minigolf. It's worth coming just for the breakfast (125,000Rp) – assuming you don't mind dining under the watchful eye of an enormous garuda (mythical bird.)
Rooms here vary greatly, even in the same building, so inspect a few before committing.
Aston SamarindaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-732600; www.astonsamarinda.com; Jl P Hidayatullah; r/ste with breakfast 700,000/830,000Rp; aWs)
This attractively designed hotel is where you come for spotless luxury. The colonnaded pool with its two-storey waterfall may be ostentatious, but the rooms have just the right amount of style and comfort. Some superiors have grand views of the river, while others have no windows but extra space. Fine dining and an in-house spa round out the scene nicely.
HorisonHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-727 2900; www.myhorison.com; Jl Imam Bonjol 9; r incl breakfast 685,000Rp; aWs)
This chain hotel adds a touch of class to the otherwise standard business hotel market. The fresh rooms all have work desks, flat-screen TVs and bone-chilling central air-con. The top-floor indoor pool has expansive views, while the bottom-floor lobby has batik demonstrations.
Swiss-BelhotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-200888; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl Mulawarman 6; r incl breakfast 500,000-954,000Rp; aWs)
The rooms at this business hotel are all the same size. An upgrade in price gets you touches such as a river view and face towel. The executive rooms were being nicely renovated when we visited, while the rest have touches of style, as well as touches of bathroom mould and mildly stained bed sheets.
The full fitness room has free weights and modern equipment. The pool is big enough for laps.
5Eating
Samarinda's food scene is a bit spread out, though there ar
e some great options you won't regret walking for.
Annie's Pirates CafeINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-739009; Jl Martadinata 7; mains 30,000Rp, coffee drinks 25,000Rp; h3-11pm)
While piracy off the shores of Samarinda has declined in recent years, Annie's business is still booming. This creatively themed resto maximises its rooftop river-breeze dining with an extensive menu, including a hogshead of rum (flavoured) drinks. Yarr.
Hero SupermarketSUPERMARKET$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mesra Indah Mall; h10am-9pm)
Good place to stock up on snacks before heading upriver.
oWaroeng Sambel JogjaINDONESIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-743913; Jl Gaja Madah 1; mains from 25,000Rp)
Serving eight very different varieties of sambal (salsa) designed to knock your socks off, this large complex near the riverfront is packed on the weekends. Their house speciality, the onion-y sambel bawang Jogja, was a bit salty for our liking, but the sambel tempe lit us up right.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 120