Hary CrabSEAFOOD$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pahlawan 41; crab 75,000Rp; h6-10pm)
A unique local institution, these streetside outdoor benches are generally packed with people who believe dinner should be a fully immersive affair. Wear your bib.
Sari Pacific RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Panglima Batur; mains from 35,000Rp; h9am-10pm)
Features a selection of New Zealand steaks (120,000Rp) as well as burgers, chicken and fish – all in frustratingly small portions. The house favourite, Ikan Patin bakar (grilled fish), is pure greasy deliciousness. Bonus: fried ice cream!
6Drinking & Nightlife
Dejavu Kitchen Bar & KTVBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-747880; Jl Panglima Batur 9; h10pm-2am)
This complex contains a booming nightclub (admission 75,000Rp) with lots of security, while a separate classy dinner restaurant is frequented by a hip and dressy crowd. The menu includes international cuisine plus a spectrum of cocktails at premium prices.
MaximumCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Niaga Timur 21; h8pm-late)
In Plaza 21, this ear-splitter is one of the more popular dance clubs in the city. Go after midnight. Taxis available around the corner.
7Shopping
oHendra Art ShopANTIQUES
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-734949; [email protected]; Jl Martadinata; h9am-5pm)
The two storeys of curios, antiques, and other Borneo exotica found in this shop can't be beat. Haggling, and an eye for authenticity, are required. Shipping is available, but that 6m carved longhouse ladder will cost you.
Citra NiagaMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This daily market contains several souvenir shops offering batik sarongs and Dayak carvings. Food stalls serve amplang (famous crunchy fishy puffs) and standard Indonesian fare (mains 25,000Rp).
Pasar PagiMARKET
(Morning Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman)
A wonderfully chaotic morning market.
8Information
Angkasa ExpressTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-200280; Plaza Lembuswana D3; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Air tickets.
Bank Central AsiaBANK
(BCA; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Foreign exchange.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jls Gajah Mada & Awang Long)
Rumah Sakit Haji DarjadHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-732698; Jl Dahlia 4)
Large hospital off Jl Basuki Rahmat.
SekataTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-742098; Jl Abdul Hasan 59)
Airline tickets and car transport. English spoken.
8Getting There & Away
Air
KalstarAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-743780; Jl Gatot Subroto 80)
Susi AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Airport)
Boat
Mahakam ferries (kapal biasa) leave at 7am from Sungai Kunjang terminal, 6km upriver on green angkot A (5000Rp). At time of research, Pelni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0541-741402; Jl Yos Sudarso 76) ferries were no longer serving Samarinda, but the office will sell tickets for Balikpapan departures.
Bus
Samarinda has three main bus terminals:
ASungai Kunjang terminal (6km west on green angkot A) serves Mahakam river destinations as well as points south.
ALempake terminal (8km north on red angkot B) serves all points north, including an irregular daily bus to Berau. Taksi gelap (unlicenced taxis) for Berau troll the terminal, effectively killing the public bus market.
Terminal Seberang ( GOOGLE MAP ) (cross the river via water taxi) serves Banjarmasin.
Minibuses for Tenggarong leave from the east side of the Mahakam Bridge. Cross it on angkot G and head south 500m where buses gather opposite the PLTD electric station.
Kangaroo Premier ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 555 1199; www.kangaroo.id; Jl WR Supratman 7A) sends minibuses to Balikpapan airport every 10 minutes.
TRANSPORT FROM SAMARINDA
AIR
Several airlines have planned additional routes when (if) the new airport 23km north of town is ever completed.
Destination Company Fare (Rp) Duration Frequency
Balikpapan Kalstar, Susi 300,000 20min 4 daily
Berau Kalstar 830,000 45min 2 daily
Melak Susi 500,000 40min Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat
Tanjung Selor Kalstar 1,140,000 1hr 1 daily
BUS
Destination Terminal Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Balikpapan Sungai Kunjang 35,000 2 every 10min, 6am-8pm
Banjarmasin Samarinda Seberang 175,000-235,000 16 8 daily 9am-5pm
Berau Lempake 200,000 17 call 0812 5417 3997
Bontang Lempake 35,000 3 every 25min, 7am-7pm
Kota Bangun Sungai Kunjang 35,000 3½ 6 daily, 7am-3pm
Melak Sungai Kunjang 110,000 9 3 daily
Sangatta Lampake 42,000 4 every 25min, 6am-5pm
Tenggarong roadside across bridge 25,000 1 regular when full
8Getting Around
Angkot (5000Rp) converge at Pasar Pagi market. Taxis from Tumindung Airport (3km) cost 60,000Rp. Alternatively, walk 200m to Jl Gatot Subroto, turn left and catch angkot B south into town.
Cross-Mahakam ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ) to Samarinda Seberang (5000Rp) leave from the end of Jl Tumenggung.
Sungai Mahakam
The second-largest river in Indonesia, the mighty Mahakam is a microcosm of Kalimantan. As you float upriver in search of the 'Heart of Borneo', you'll pass countless barges hauling it downriver to sell to the highest bidder. You'll see centuries-old villages just around the bend from coal mines and logging camps, and impossibly tall trees looming next to oil palm plantations. You'll pass imposing government offices with flash SUVs parked out front on your way to haggle over the price of a hand-carved mandau (machete) with a man who's barely keeping his family fed. This is Kalimantan in all of its conflicting, powerful, confusing and compelling beauty. And, there is no better way to see it than a trip up the Mahakam: a journey you'll remember for a lifetime.
2Activities
Travelling up this major artery of Kalimantan is a journey in the fullest sense of the word. As you head away from the industrial centre of Samarinda you slip deeper into the interior, and into Borneo's past. You won't be alone (there is a daily public boat, after all) but you won't see many other foreigners – if any.
Opportunities for exploration abound, from towns and longhouses, to huge lakes, wetlands and side creeks. Wildlife is abundant, but elusive. Your odds of meeting river otters, pythons, macaques, proboscis monkeys, monitor lizards or hornbills increase exponentially with your distance from the main corridor. Jump off the boat at any random village and wait for the next one, even if it means staying overnight – especially if. The Mahakam is one of those places where you shouldn't worry too much about the details. Homestays materialise, 'my brother's boat' appears, closed stores open. Hospitality is the lingua franca, and the people are universally welcoming.
Heading up the main river gets you into the interior, but taking any tributary will open up a whole new world of adventures and experiences.
Stages of Travel
The Mahakam stretches from Samarinda to the highlands through several distinct regions:
Lower Mahakam: Samarinda to Kota Bangun Many travellers opt to cover this fairly developed stretch by land. Otherwise it is an eight-hour journey from Samarinda by kapal biasa, which depart Samarinda every morning at 7am. Notable stops include the former Kutai sultanate in Tenggarong city.
The Lake District: Kota Bangun to Melak This diverse section of rivers, lakes and marshes is full of wildlife and dotted with villages, each completely unique in its own way. Base out of Muara Muntai for day trips to Lake Jempang, or take creative side passages upriver to Muara Pahu.
Middle Mahakam: Melak to Long Bagun The upper reach of the kapal biasa begins
to feel like the wild Kalimantan you've dreamed about.
Upper Mahakam: Long Bagun to Tiong Ohang The most exhilarating and most dangerous part of the river includes two major sets of rapids that claim multiple lives each year.
Note that kapal biasa reach Long Bagun when water levels permit. Otherwise they stop in Tering or Long Iram, at which point speed boats will surround your boat looking for passengers for Long Bagun.
BOAT TRAVEL ON THE SUNGAI MAHAKAM
Distances, costs and duration are based on a Samarinda start point. Be aware that travel times fluctuate significantly based on water levels and the number of stops. Consult locally for current conditions.
Destination Distance (km) Fare (Rp) Duration (hr)
Tenggarong 35 50,000 2
Kota Bangun 153 75,000 8
Muara Muntai 195 100,000 11
Muara Pahu 256 130,000 15
Melak 303 150,000 19
Tering 381 200,000 25
Long Bagung (if possible) 539 380,000 37
Guides
As you head further upriver, Bahasa skills become more essential as English is almost nonexistent. You can get by with rudimentary phrases, but your travel options will be limited and your understanding of the area restricted to surface observations.
Most guides prefer package trips with pre-set costs, and tend not to deviate from their scripted route. However, some may agree to a more flexible itinerary for a daily fee, with you covering their food, lodging and transport as well. Independent guiding fees range widely, from 150,000Rp to 350,000Rp per day depending on experience, skill and demand. The best guides will look out for their client's financial interests, negotiating on your behalf and making savings which may defray their fee.
Take the time to find a suitable guide in Samarinda or Balikpapan, where they are relatively plentiful. An interview is essential to confirm language skills and identify personality [in]compatibilities that can make or break a long trip together.
CHARIOTS OF THE MAHAKAM
Several types of boat ply the waters of the Mahakam, each with their own appealing character.
Kapal Biasa These bilevel riverboats are the long-haul workhorses of the Mahakam. Two boats depart daily from Samarinda, one bound for Long Bagun, the other for Melak. The open lower deck holds short-distance passengers sharing floor space with the cargo and fuel cans. Aft is a simple kitchen (meals 20,000Rp) and simpler toilets (visualise a hole in the deck). Long-distance passengers occupy the closed upper deck where 60 people or so bed down, side by side, on thin mattresses (provided). If you're making an overnight journey, head directly upstairs to stake a claim near an electrical plug, fan and window. The secret treasure is the foredeck balcony directly over the captain's chair, which provides the perfect elevated viewing platform. As the boat chugs deeper into the heart of Borneo, you can sit there serenely for hours in shaded comfort, munching on strange fruit from the last stop.
Longboats Also called spid (pronounced speed), these long motorboats with canvas tops and rows of seats are armed with racks of off-board horsepower, necessary for handling the rapids in the upper river. Epic front-seat views are paid for in spine-compressing bounces.
Ces Narrow wooden canoes powered by a lawnmower engine attached to a propeller via a long stalk – the same longtails seen elsewhere in Asia. These stylish crafts with their upturned snouts, raked sterns, cushioned seating and colourful paint jobs provide access to the narrow byways and shallow marshlands. There is nothing, nothing, like exploring the jungle on a beautiful day in one of these: a private journey fit for a sultan. (Just bring earplugs.)
Tenggarong
%0541 / Pop 75,000
Once the capital of the mighty Kutai sultanate, Tenggarong has been attempting to recreate its past glory, with mixed results. Flush with mining profits, the government has invested heavily in infrastructure – good. However, development largely focused on turning Kumala Island into a gaudy tourist attraction, which now lies abandoned and bankrupt, plagued by a corruption scandal – bad. Far worse, in 2011 the 10-year-old bridge across the Mahakam, dubbed 'Indonesia's Golden Gate', suddenly collapsed into the river, killing 36 people. Most travellers come for the lively annual Erau Festival, otherwise the informative museum is your primary draw.
1Sights
Mulawarman MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl Diponegoro; admission 5000Rp; h9am-4pm, closed Mon & Fri)
The former sultan's palace, built by the Dutch in 1937, is now a decent museum chronicling the culture, natural history and industry of Indonesia's oldest kingdom – as evidenced by 5th-century Sanskrit engravings (originals in Jakarta). The ornate Yuan and Ming Dynasty ceramics are compelling, while the wedding headwear from around Indonesia is entertaining. (Ladies, get married in West Sumatra. Gentlemen, South Kalimantan.) The architecturally incongruous building is itself an attraction, with strong parallel lines reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's work.
Don't miss the exquisitely decorative wooden palace out back, which stands empty outside of the Erau Festival, when the current sultan takes up residence.
zFestivals & Events
Erau International Folk & Art FestivalCULTURAL
(EIFAF; www.facebook.com/EIFAF)
Originally held in celebration of a sultan's coronation, the Erau (from the Kutai word eroh, meaning joyful, boisterous crowd) became a biannual, then annual, gathering to celebrate local Dayak culture and custom. It's usually in August, occasionally in June. Book lodging in advance.
The event has recently joined with the International Folk & Art Festival to expand the menu of twirling dancers in traditional costume to include 17 countries from Bulgaria to South Korea to Venezuela.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Karya TapinHOTEL$
(%0541-661258; Jl Maduningrat 29; r incl breakfast 245,000Rp; a)
Spotless lavender-striped rooms at this small hotel include high ceilings, TVs, showers and homely touches. Head west on Jl Kartini along the south bank of the creek beside the Keraton to Jl Maduningrat. Hot water is extra (when it's working). Hot water rooms are 50,000Rp extra, even if it's not working.
Grand Elty Singgasana HotelHOTEL$$
(%0541-664703; Jl Pahlawan 1; r incl breakfast 694,000-814,000Rp; aWs)
Located on a beautiful hillside south of town, the stately wood-trimmed rooms are marred by peeling paint, broken walkways, and staff who seem surprised to discover someone is actually staying here. The pool (35,000Rp for nonguests) has a phenomenal view. Transport into town is 100,000Rp a trip.
Etam Fried ChickenINDONESIAN$
(%0541-665701; Jl Muchsin Timbau; mains 20,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
The local recommendation for tasty fried (and more) chicken; 2km south of the museum.
8Getting There & Away
ABoat The kapal biasa dock (Pelabuhan Mangkurawang) is 2.5km north of town, with angkot (5000Rp) service to the centre. Boats pass heading downriver to Samarinda around 7am daily (25,000Rp, two hours) and for Kota Bangun at 9am daily (50,000Rp, six hours).
ABus Timbau bus terminal is 4km south of the museum area, with angkot service to the centre (5000Rp). Buses depart hourly from 9am to 4pm for Samarinda (25,000Rp) but you'll need to hail passing Kota Bangun–bound buses (30,000Rp) or Kijang (150,000Rp) on the street.
MODIK OR MAULIR?
It is the question on the Mahakam: modik or maulir? The first is a mash-up of mau udik (want upriver), and colloquially means to head back to the place of your origin. (Millions of Indonesians modik during the Idul Fitri holiday.) Maulir comes from mau hilir (want downriver), a bittersweet direction.
Kota Bangun
This small town is where many Mahakam journeys begin. From here, take the kapal biasa direct to Muara Muntai on the river, or hire a ces to get there via the northern scenic route through Lakes Semayang and Melintang. You'll twist and turn through narrow channels, cross endless marshes, and pass through forests of silver-barked trees, pausing for the odd monkey or some of the last Irrawaddy dolphins.
4Sleeping & Eating
Warung Etam and Warung Maskur, next to the dock, serve excellent grilled chicken and chicken soup respectively. Pak Maskur speaks passable English and can help in a pinch.
Penginapan EtamGUESTHOUSE$
(Jl HM Aini H 19; r fan/air-con 60,000/120,000Rp; a)
If you enjoyed visiting grandmother's house, you'll enjoy staying at this friendly upstairs guesthouse. Enjoy the foot-massaging floors in the clean shared mandi. It's 140m upriver of the kapal biasa dock.
Penginapan MukjizatGUESTHOUSE$
(%0541-666 3586; Jl A Yani 5; s/d 50,000/100,000Rp)
The chill rear balcony above the river is a plus. Its proximity to the megaphonic mosque, not so much. It's 200m downriver from the kapal biasa dock.
8Getting There & Around
Kapal biasa pass in the afternoon heading upriver, and in the predawn morning heading down. Buses to Samarinda (35,000Rp, four hours) leave at least three times daily between 7am and 2pm. Regular ces service runs to Muara Pela (30,000Rp), Semayang (50,000Rp) and Melintang (65,000Rp) three times daily starting at 11am. Charter a private ces for dolphin watching at Pela (%Pak Darwis 0852 5065 0961; 2hrs 200,000Rp), or for the back-channel journey to Muara Muntai (1,000,000Rp per day).
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 121