Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 134
In Kotamobagu there are ATMs, a supermarket and several hotels. The Hotel Ramayana (%0434-21188; Jl Adampe Dolot 50; s/d 70,000/110,000Rp) is recommended.
Manado
%0431 / Pop 458,500
With an overabundance of shopping malls and cavernous holes in the sidewalk, Manado doesn’t usually register as one of North Sulawesi’s highlights. It’s a well-serviced and friendly place, however, with more than its share of comfortable hotels and some good places to eat. Adventures lie nearby around the city at Bunaken, Tomohon, the Lembeh Strait and Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve; to get to these places most travellers will have to spend a night or more in Manado.
Manado
1Sights
1Kienteng Ban Hian KongC1
2Public Museum of North SulawesiC2
4Sleeping
3Celebes HotelC1
4Sintesa Peninsula HotelC2
5Eating
5Raja SateA3
6Rumah Makan Green GardenB3
7Rumah Makan Raja OciD2
History
In 1844 Manado was levelled by earthquakes, so the Dutch redesigned it from scratch. Fourteen years later the famous naturalist Alfred Wallace visited and described the city as ‘one of the prettiest in the East’. Time hasn’t been kind to the place.
Rice surpluses from Minahasa’s volcanic hinterland made Manado a strategic port for European traders sailing to and from the ‘Spice Islands’ (Maluku). The Dutch helped unite the diverse Minahasan confederacy. By the mid-1800s, compulsory cultivation schemes were producing huge crops of cheap coffee for a Dutch-run monopoly. Many Minahasans suffered during this period, yet economic, religious and social ties with the colonists continued to intensify. Elsewhere, Minahasan mercenaries put down anti-Dutch rebellions in Java and beyond, earning them the name anjing Belanda (Dutch dogs).
The Japanese occupation of 1942–45 was a period of deprivation, and the Allies bombed Manado heavily in 1945. During the war of independence that followed, there was bitter division between the nationalists and those favouring Dutch-sponsored federalism, and the city was bombed (again), this time by the Indonesian military, in 1958.
Today, the development of Bitung’s deep-sea port and Manado's good air links with Singapore and the rest of the nation have boosted the city’s trade and tourism.
1Sights & Activities
Most of the main sights lie beyond the city. The ‘boulevard’, Jl Piere Tendean, is a monstrous thoroughfare lined with shopping malls; it has limited coastal access.
Public Museum of North SulawesiMUSEUM
(Museum Negeri Propinsi Sulawesi Utara; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-870308; Jl Supratman 72; admission 5000Rp; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30am Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
This museum features a large display of traditional costumes, and an exibit illustrating traditional pottery-making. There are captions in English.
Kienteng Ban Hian KongBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Panjaitan)
The 19th-century Kienteng Ban Hian Kong is the oldest Buddhist temple in eastern Indonesia and it has been beautifully restored. The temple hosts a spectacular festival in February (dates vary according to the lunar calendar).
Bunaken Tour TravelTOUR
(%0898 443 5867; www.bunakentourtravel.com)
A recommended tour company for trips around Minahasa. It works in partnership with tour guide Mikel Leitzinger, who runs Mountain View Resort in Tomohon.
zFestivals & Events
Minahasans love an excuse to party. Watch out for festivals through the year.
Tai Pei KongCULTURAL
(hFeb)
Chinese festival held at Kienteng Ban Hian Kong Buddhist temple.
Pengucapan SyukurCULTURAL
A harvest festival that can take place any time from June to August.
Traditional Horse & Bull RacesCULTURAL
(hSep)
Traditional races held in late September.
4Sleeping
Most travellers choose to base themselves on Pulau Bunaken or in Tomohon, both less than an hour away; however, there are some excellent options in Manado, in all price bands.
Hotels near and on Jl Sam Ratulangi are an easy walk to food and shopping but can be noisy due to the traffic. Various dive lodges are about a 40-minute drive from town in peaceful settings.
The better budget places fill quickly, so reserve in advance.
In Town
Manado Grace InnHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-888 0288; www.manadograceinn.com; Jl Samratulangi Manado 113-H; r incl breakfast 175,000Rp; aW)
Good-value, newish hotel where the no-frills cream-and-white rooms are small but have air-con, private shower rooms (with hot water) and in-room wi-fi. Breakfast is very basic – just a bread roll and tea or coffee.
Celebes HotelHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-870425; www.hotelcelebesmdo.com; Jl Rumambi 8A; r with fan/air-con from 145,000/250,000Rp; aW)
This big block looms over the market and port, so is very handy for boats to Pulau Bunaken. Rooms are functional and kept pretty clean. Angle for one on an upper floor with a view of the sea.
oLibra HomestayHOMESTAY$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 9268 6320; www.librahomestaymanado.com; Jl Pramuka XI 16; r incl breakfast 300,000-325,000Rp; aW)
An excellent place in a smart, spacious villa on a quiet street, where the kindly Chinese owner (who studied in London) looks after guests well. There are five rooms, all with air-con, cable TVs, desks and private bathrooms with hot water. It's in the south of the city, a five-minute walk from restaurants.
De NearbyHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-833111; www.nearbyhotel.co.id; Blok C 16/17 1, Kompleks Bahu Mall, Jl Wolter Monginsidi; s/d incl breakfast 200,000/300,000Rp; aW)
Steps from the seafront in the far south of town, this smart new boutique budget hotel offers excellent value, particularly for solo travellers. With a zany colour scheme and small but well-designed rooms it's a good choice. There are a few seafood restaurants close by.
Hotel MinahasaHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-874871; www.hotelminahasa.com; Jl Sam Ratulangi 199; r with fan/air-con from 332,000/540,000Rp; aWs)
Flower-filled grounds stretch up to a hilltop villa, luxurious pool and fitness centre with city views. Fan rooms are basic so you may be tempted to upgrade to a much more elegant, superior room with a terrace and a view.
Sintesa Peninsula HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-855008; www.sintesapeninsulahotel.com; Jl Jend Sudirman; r from US$78; aiWs)
A gleaming white fortress on a hill in the middle of town, the Sintesa has all bases covered: a marble-clad lobby, spacious rooms with fine city views, a fitness centre, a big swimming pool and an excellent spa.
Coastal Dive Resorts
oLumbalumba DivingDIVE RESORT$$$
(%0822 9291 9056; www.lumbalumbadiving.com; bungalows per person from €37.50; Ws)
Consistently maintaining high standards, this serene, intimate resort is surrounded by gorgeous gardens and serves some of the best food in the region. Divers will love the small groups and knowlegeable staff, while nondivers can while their days away at the infinity pool with its marine-park view. The resort is 17km southwest of Manado.
Thalassa ManadoDIVE RESORT$$$
(www.thalassamanado.com; r per person incl all meals 700,000-1,100,000Rp; aiWs)
This resort 6km north of Manado is under new ownership and has a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Facilities are being steadily upgraded, but all accommodation options are spacious and well presented. Chill by the lush pool when you're not using the service of the professionally run PADI five-star dive centre. Consult its website for dive packages.
Bahowo LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$$
(%0819 404 5261; www.bahowolodge.com; Bahowo Village; s/d incl breakfast & dinner from US$75/100; ais)
Offering a personal touch, this British-owned place is a clean, modern lodge in Bahowo village on the coast 15km north of Mana
do. Stylish rooms have tiled floors, some have sea views and there's a lovely guest lounge. The lodge gets rave reviews for its home-cooked food, including lots of local specialities. Diving and snorkelling trips are organised with a neighbouring resort.
5Eating
Adventurous Minahasan cuisine can be found around Manado. Get a taste for rica-rica, a spicy stir-fry made with ayam (chicken) or babi (pork). Bubur tinotuan (corn porridge) and fresh seafood are local specialities worth looking out for. You may also come across r.w. (pronounced ‘air weh’; dog) on some menus. Note there are significant animal-welfare issues associated with the dog-meat trade.
Along Jl Sam Ratulangi, the main road running north–south, there are upmarket restaurants and supermarkets. Most of the city's malls have extensive food courts, including Bahu Mall.
Rumah Makan Green GardenCHINESE, INDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sam Ratulangi 170; meals 20,000-50,000Rp; h8am-midnight)
Popular Indo-Chinese restaurant with excellent pork dishes (try it barbecued or go for the pork belly), as well as good seafood, fresh juices and Bintang beer.
Rumah Makan Raja OciINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Jend Sudirman 85; meals 25,000-40,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
This authentic rumah makan packs in the locals for its ikan oci (barbecued small fish), which are served with a spicy Minahasan sauce known as dabu-dabu (made of tomatoes, shallots and fresh chilli).
oRaja SateINTERNATIONAL, INDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-332-7380; www.rajasate.com; Jl Pierre Tendean 39; meals from 40,000Rp; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-10.30pm Sun; aW)
Rightly renowned for its sate (you can't go wrong with a mixed plate that includes prawns, squid, chicken, beef and goat), but it also does great curries and even New Zealand steaks; everything is excellent. Air-con dining rooms are available if you book ahead.
8Information
ATMs and banks are clustered along Jl Sam Ratulangi.
Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-841688; Jl 17 Agustus; h7am-noon & 1pm-4pm Mon-Fri)
Visa extensions take around five days to process and typically involve three visits.
Main Police StationPOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %emergencies 110, enquiries 0431-852162; Jl 17 Agustus)
Main police station.
North Sulawesi Tourism OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-852723; Jl Diponegoro 111; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat)
You can get a map and a few leaflets here.
Rumah Sakit UmumHOSPITAL
(%0431-853191; Jl Monginsidi; h24hr)
The general hospital is about 4.5km from town and includes a decompression chamber.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Tickets for domestic flights often cost about the same at travel agencies as they do online.
A number of airlines have offices in town. XpressAir (www.expressair.biz) and Batik Air (www.batikair.com) also fly to Manado.
GarudaAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-877737; Jl Sam Ratulangi 212; h8.30am-6pm)
Flies from Manado to Denpasar, Jakarta, Makassar, Sorong, Surabaya and Ternate.
Lion AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-847000; Jl Sam Ratulangi; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Flies from Manado to Balikpapan, Bandung, Denpasar, Jakarta, Makassar and Surabaya.
Silk AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-863744; Jl Sarapung; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Flies from Manado to Singapore.
Sriwijaya AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-837688; Ruko Bahu Mall, BIok S/18, Jl Wolter Monginsidi; h8am-6.30pm)
Flies from Manado to Makassar and Ternate.
Wings AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0431-847000; Jl Sam Ratulangi; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Flies from Manado to Gorontolo, Sorong and Ternate.
Boat
All Pelni boats use the deep-water port of Bitung, 55km from Manado. There’s no Pelni office in Manado but you can get information and purchase tickets from numerous travel agents around the harbour.
Speed ferries operate daily to Siau (160,000Rp, four hours) and on to Tahuna (180,000Rp, 6½ hours) in the Sangihe-Talaud Islands. Tickets and information are available from Majestic Kawanua.
There are also local boats to Maluku. Tickets are available from the stalls outside the port.
Boats to Bunaken Island leave from a harbour near Pasar Jengki fish market.
Bus
There are three reasonably orderly terminals for long-distance buses and the local mikrolet.
Terminal Karombasan (5km south of the city) Connections to Tomohon (9000Rp) and other places south of Manado.
Terminal Malalayang (far south of the city) Buses to Kotamobagu (55,000Rp) and Gorontalo (from 100,000Rp, nine hours).
Terminal Paal 2 (eastern end of Jl Martadinata) Varied public transport runs to Bitung (11,000Rp) and to the airport (5000Rp).
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Mikrolet from Sam Ratulangi International Airport go to Terminal Paal 2 (6000Rp), where you can change to a mikrolet for elsewhere. There are also four daily air-conditioned buses (30,000Rp) to/from Jl Piere Tendean. Fixed-price taxis cost around 75,000Rp from the airport to the city (13km).
Public Transport
Manado’s mikrolet are everywhere; fares cost 3800Rp anywhere in town. Those with ‘Wanea’ on the window sign heading south on Jl Sam Ratulangi will go to Terminal Karombasan. Most mikrolet heading north go through Pasar 45 and past the Pasar Jengki fish market, but some go directly to Terminal Paal 2 along Jl Jend Sudirman. Mikrolet heading to Terminal Malalayang go down Jl Pierre Tendean.
For a taxi, call Bluebird (%0431-861234; h24hr); cars all have meters. A 2km ride is about 15,000Rp.
Pulau Bunaken
%0431
This tiny, coral-fringed isle is North Sulawesi’s top tourist destination, yet it has managed to maintain a rootsy island soul. Tourist accommodation is spread out along two beaches. Other than that, the island belongs to the islanders; these friendly folk have a seemingly endless reserve of authentically warm smiles. There are no hassles here, just laid-back beachy bliss.
Most people come to Bunaken for the diving. The marine biodiversity is extraordinary, with more than 300 types of coral and 3000 species of fish, abundant corals and sponges and phenomenally colourful life on vertical walls. The 808-hectare island is part of the 75,265-hectare Bunaken Manado Tua Marine National Park (Taman Laut Bunaken Manado Tua), which includes Manado Tua (Old Manado), the dormant volcano that can be seen from Manado and climbed in about four hours; Nain and Mantehage islands; and Pulau Siladen, which also has accommodation options.
With the developing and expanding city of Manado right next door, Bunaken is becoming more and more accessible. Within two hours of arriving in Manado from Singapore or most parts of Indonesia, you can be in a bamboo beach shack on Bunaken watching the sunset. Unfortunately, this proximity also means that the huge amounts of garbage generated by the city can sweep onto Pantai Liang, turning the picturesque tropical beach into a refuse heap. The scarcity of fresh water has limited the island’s development, and villagers must import their drinking water from Manado.
Prices (from accommodation to beer) are higher than in mainland Sulawesi and some resorts discriminate against nondivers, either by charging higher accommodation prices or by turning them away.
There's nothing that could be called a road on the whole island. A rough, rutted track of concrete paving, dirt and sand loops around the island; it can be (just about) tackled on a scooter.
Pulau Bunaken
4Sleeping
1Bunaken Island ResortA2
2Cakalang BunakenB2
3Cha ChaB1
4Daniel's ResortB3
5FroggiesA1
6Happy GeckoA1
7Living ColoursB2
8Lorenso's Beach GardenB2
9Novita HomestayB3
10Panorama Dive ResortA2
11Two FishB2
12Village BunakenB2
2Activities
Most people go to Bunaken to dive or snorkel, but it’s a lovely island to walk around too, and has very friendly villages and beautiful scenery.
If you’re on the island during the second to third week of September, you’ll be able to catch the Bunaken Festival, which features arts and cultural performances by all the ethnic groups around North Sulawesi.
DIVING & SNORKELLING AROUND PULAU BUNAKEN
Bunaken is uniquely surrounded by deep water with strong, nutrient-laden currents, while having a mangrove ecosystem that protects much of the beaches and corals from erosion; this makes it one of the best diving and snorkelling spots in the world. Beyond drop-offs you’ll find caves and valleys full of brightly coloured sponges, thriving corals and biblical numbers of fish. It's very rare not to see several large hawksbill and green turtles on every dive, and you'll also encounter rays and sharks.
DIY snorkellers on the east coast will find the front of Lorenso's Beach Garden is an easy place to get in the water. Over on the west side, you'll find Likuan, a spectacular coral wall just off Pantai Liang.
Most guesthouses, resorts and dive centres have maps of all the sites around Bunaken; where you go will most likely depend on the current conditions. If you're staying somewhere without a dive centre, it's easy to shop around for outings with a nearby place.