Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  WORTH A TRIP

  RAHA

  The main settlement on Pulau Muna, Raha is a quiet backwater famous for its horse fighting, cave paintings and lagoons.

  Raha’s main attraction is Napabale, a turquoise lagoon about 15km out of town. The lagoon is linked to the sea via a natural tunnel, so you can paddle through when the tide is low. It is a great area for hiking and swimming, and you can hire canoes (40,000Rp). An ojek here from Raha costs around 30,000Rp.

  Super-jet boats between Kendari and Bau Bau stop in Raha. These boats are scheduled to leave for Kendari (137,000Rp, 3½ hours) at 8.30am and 1.30pm, and for Bau Bau (63,000Rp, 1½ hours) at about 1pm.

  Bau Bau

  %0402 / Pop 149,000

  With comfortable accommodation, great views from the well-preserved citadel walls and some decent beaches within easy ojek range, Pulau Buton’s prosperous main town of Bau Bau is a great place to await a boat connection to Maluku, North Sulawesi, or the diving paradise of Tukangbesi.

  The terminal, main mosque and market are about 500m west of the main Pelni port, along Jl Kartini, which diverges from the seafront esplanade, Jl Yos Sudarso. Jl Kartini crosses a bridge then curves south past the post office towards the kraton (walled city palace).

  1Sights

  The area around Bau Bau is blessed with beaches, waterfalls and caves.

  KratonPALACE

  Banking steeply behind the town centre is the kraton, the Wolio royal citadel with impressively long and well-preserved 16th-century walls that offer great views over the town and its north-facing bay. Amid trees and flowers within the walls are evocative traditional homes and the old royal mosque.

  Pusat Kebudayaan WolioMUSEUM

  (admission 7000Rp; h8am-5pm )

  Some 500m beyond the citadel’s south gate is Pusat Kebudayaan Wolio, a cultural centre and museum in a restored old mansion-palace, which is the focal point of Bau Bau’s Festival Kraton, which features costumed parades, dances and displays of traditional fighting each September.

  Pantai NirwanaBEACH

  Eleven kilometres southwest of Bau Bau, the nearest white-sand beach is the attractively palm-lined Pantai Nirwana, though there is a certain amount of rubbish around.

  Pantai BatuagaBEACH

  The local's favourite beach, 21km southwest of Bau Bau, is ideal for swimming.

  Pantai LakebaBEACH

  About 7km from central Bau Bau, this is where you'll find white sand, shady coconut palms, lightly rolling waves and a fantastic beach restaurant serving local specialities.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  You’ll find restaurants and warungs (many set up at night) along the esplanade, a few hundred metres west of the port.

  Hillhouse ResortGUESTHOUSE$

  (%0401-21189; r incl breakfast 120,000Rp)

  This little place has a spectacular setting amid a hilltop flower garden, with outstanding panoramic views of the bay. The rooms, with mosquito nets and shared bathrooms, are simple. There's free tea and coffee for guests, and meals can usually be arranged by helpful owner Kasim if you give him notice. It’s about half a click above Pusat Kebudayaan Wolio, the museum 500m beyond the citadel’s south gate.

  Hotel Calista BeachHOTEL$$

  (%0402-282-3088; Jl Yos Sudarso 25; r incl breakfast from 275,000Rp; aW)

  This four-story scarlet-and-grey block has a fine seafront location by the harbour. Rooms are in good shape, many with bay views, and the staff is helpful.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Baubau airport is 3km southwest of town. Wings Air runs daily flights (45 minutes) between Makassar and Bau Bau; these continue to Wanci (20 minutes) in the Tukangbesi Islands. Garuda also has daily flights between Makassar and Bau Bau.

  Boat

  To Raha & Kendari

  The fast Super-jet takes 1½ hours to Raha (63,000Rp) and five hours to Kendari (170,000Rp).

  To Tukangbesi Islands

  An overnight boat from Bau Bau to Wanci Wanci (88,000Rp, nine to 11 hours) leaves at 8.30pm nightly. From Wanci, there are boats onward to Kaledupa (around two hours), from where you can catch a boat to Hoga (50,000Rp per boat). Another option is to take a smaller wooden ship that leaves a few times per week from Bau Bau to Buranga Harbour on Kaledupa Island (120,000Rp). Take a motorbike taxi (10,000Rp per person) from Buranga Harbour to Ambeua village, where there are boats to Hoga (60,000Rp per boat, 20 minutes).

  To Elsewhere in Sulawesi

  Every two weeks several Pelni liners link Bau Bau with Makassar; most also go to Ambon and/or Papua. Every two weeks the Tilongkabila heads along the east coast of Sulawesi, stopping off at Kendari and Bitung.

  Tukangbesi Islands

  Jacques Cousteau, when he surveyed the area in the 1980s, declared the Tukangbesi Islands to offer ‘possibly the finest diving in the world’. Most of the islands are now part of Wakatobi Marine National Park (Taman Laut Wakatobi) and although the corals aren't in the same shape as when Cousteau visited, few divers leave disappointed. Positioned remotely off the far southeast coast of Sulawesi, the islands are difficult to reach, but they do offer superb snorkelling and diving, a blaze of corals and marine life, isolated beaches and stunning landscapes.

  8Getting There & Away

  The easiest way to get to the Tukangbesi Islands is by taking a daily flight on Wings Air to Wanci, the islands' main settlement on Pulau Wangi Wangi, from Makassar. There's no public transport from Wanci airport; taxis charge a steep 100,000Rp; ojek ask for 40,000Rp.

  From Wanci, public speedboats on to Pulau Hoga and Pulau Tomia leave from Pelabuhan Mola at around 9.30am. Public boats to Pulau Kaledupa (50,000Rp) leave Mola Utara (the 'northern jetty') about 1km north of the main harbour, daily at 9am.

  Once every four weeks the Pelni liner Kelimutu travels from Makassar to Bau Bau then on to Ambon via Wanci.

  Wanci (Pulau Wangi Wangi)

  Wanci is the main wooden-boat-clogged settlement on Pulau Wangi Wangi. Cycling is a great way to get around this petite island, which is relatively flat and has good roads, with plenty of beaches and interesting caves to stop at. Central Wanci is a colourful place with a lively harbour and a night market with tasty goods.

  Wanci has a surprising number of hotels and guesthouses, several of which are found along the busy road that leads south from the harbour to the market.

  Patuno Resort Wakatobi (%0811 400 2221; http://wakatobipatunoresort.co.id; bungalows incl breakfast from US$58; aW) is a luxurious dive resort on a white beach close to the northern tip of the island, and offers free airport or harbour transfers.

  Pulau Kaledupa

  Much bigger than the main Tukangbesi island of Pulau Wangi Wangi and wilder, too, Pulau Kaledupa essentially has no tourist infrastructure on its beautiful, forested and beach-rich shores. The island is part of the Wakatobi Marine National Park, and its main village, Ambeua, is pleasant and lively. In general the island is just a stopover for many travellers, albeit a rather stunning one. If you want to stay overnight, homestays are easy to arrange.

  Pulau Hoga & Pulau Tomia

  For most travellers, the Tukangbesi Islands mean Pulau Hoga. This small desert island, 2km from the bigger Pulau Kaledupa, offers as close to a castaway existence as you could wish for. The water is turquoise; reefs are spectacular; and Bajau locals are superfriendly. Bring plenty of cash; there are no services at all besides the hotels. Fresh water is very scarce, so keep usage to a minimum.

  Operation Wallacea, a British-based NGO, organises prebooked ‘volunteer’ programs in marine conservation, mainly between June and August. During these months the island is a little busier.

  When not diving or snorkelling, you can walk around parts of the island (best at low tide; some areas are only accessible by boat) and visit the fishing village at the northern end.

  Pulau Tomia is another small island, about 8km south of Pulau Kaledupa, and is known to the outside world mostly for its ultraexclusive Wakatobi Dive Resort.

  4Sleeping

&
nbsp; All accommodation except Wakatobi Dive Resort are on Pulau Hoga. There's no backpacker place on Hoga, but it's often possible to stay in village homestays; speak to staff at Hoga Island Dive Resort.

  Wisma PondangHUT$$

  (%0821 4782 8544; Pulau Hoga; cabin per person incl all meals 250,000Rp)

  This is a simple cabin in the village with a decent mattress, mosquito net and mandi; more are planned. Owner Pondang speaks good English and can arrange tours.

  oHoga Island Dive ResortDIVE RESORT$$$

  (%0852 4162 8287; www.hogaislanddiveresort.com; Pula Hoga; per person incl 2 dives & all meals 1,400,000Rp)S

  Searching for that perfect barefoot vibe? Look no further: this lovely place enjoys an idyllic location, with big, wooden bungalows right on a white-sand beach. The ambience is warm thanks to the genial staff. Food is fresh, plentiful and very tasty, and the dive shop is well managed, with excellent guides.

  The resort supports the community in various ways, such as by providing a boat for the local children to get to school on Pulau Kaledupa each day.

  Wakatobi Dive ResortDIVE RESORT$$$

  (www.wakatobi.com; Pulau Onemobaa; per person incl all meals from US$315 ; aiW)

  On Pulau Onemobaa, just off Pulau Tomia, this ultraexclusive hideaway offers beautiful bungalow accommodation and one of the most celebrated house reefs in Indonesia. Rates include a personal butler and full board; diving costs extra. It is also the base for the elegant liveaboard Pelagian (www.pelagian.wakatobi.com). Private charter flights direct to/from Bali are available.

  Understand Indonesia

  Indonesia Today

  The world's fourth most populous country peacefully elected a high-profile new president even as it grapples with long-time challenges.

  History

  From prehistoric cultures to the birth of a nation, Indonesia's history is as fascinating as the country itself.

  Culture

  Hundreds of cultures and over 700 recognised languages are just the start of Indonesia's amazingly rich culture.

  Food & Drink

  Rich flavours redolent with spices are the hallmark of Indonesian meals, with regional specialties ranging from spicy surprises to fragrant favourites.

  Environment

  It's not just orangutans. Scores of species in the air and above and below the water are found here and nowhere else.

  Indonesia Today

  Nothing ever seems settled in Indonesia, whether it's the land, the sea or society itself. Yet there was justifiable cause for celebration after the 2014 national elections continued the almost entirely peaceful traditions set during the previous elections five years earlier. Not bad for a country with a violent political past, including a 1965 political genocide recalled by two widely praised documentaries. Still, economic and environmental challenges remain hugely significant as the nation feels its way to the future.

  Best on Film

  The Act of Killing (directed by Joshua Oppenheimer, 2012) A searing Oscar-nominated documentary about the 1965 slaughter of accused Communist sympathisers in Indonesia, which resulted in over 500,000 deaths and remains a taboo subject today.

  Look of Silence (directed by Joshua Oppenheimer, 2014) The follow-up to Act of Killing follows an optician as he confronts men accused of killing his brother during the 1965 slaughters.

  Shackled (directed by Upi Avianto, 2012) A man driving in Jakarta finds a character in a rabbit suit and an abused woman in his car, with horrifying consequences. Avianto is one of Indonesia's most popular directors; her films are usually commercial successes.

  Sang Penari (The Dancer, directed by Ifa Isfansyah, 2011) Based on a trilogy of novels by Ahmad Tohari, this critically acclaimed film focuses on a young man and a Javanese village's new poetic dancer.

  Eat Pray Love (directed by Ryan Murphy, 2010) A flop at the box office and with critics, the film is Bali’s glossiest appearance on screen. Look for Ubud and Padang Padang beach.

  Best in Print

  A Brief History of Indonesia (2015) Indonesian expert Tim Hannigan's highly readable and entertaining narrative.

  Indonesia Etc (2014) Elizabeth Pisani's brilliant travelogue and exploration of the nation.

  This Earth of Mankind (1980) A canvas of Indonesia under Dutch rule by Pramoedya Ananta Toer (1925–2006), one of Indonesia's top writers.

  Stranger in the Forest (1988) Eric Hansen was possibly the first nonlocal to walk across Borneo.

  Krakatoa – The Day the World Exploded (2003) Simon Winchester melds history, geology and politics, all centred on the 1883 eruption.

  Etiquette

  Places of worship Be respectful in sacred places. Remove shoes and dress modestly when visiting mosques; wear a sash and sarong at Bali temples.

  Body language Use both hands when handing somebody something. Don't show displays of affection in public, or talk with your hands on your hips (it's seen as a sign of aggression).

  Clothing Avoid showing a lot of skin, although many local men wear shorts. Don't go topless if you're a woman (even on Bali); you'll incite trouble in conservative areas and simply offend in others.

  Photography Before taking photos of someone, ask – or mime – for approval.

  Custom Respond to requests for donations and to fill in guestbooks in remote villages.

  Jokowi

  He was called the Indonesian Obama, and that exemplified the biggest hurdles that Joko Widodo faced after he won the landmark 2014 Indonesian election. The first democratically elected Indonesian president with no obvious ties to the old Suharto dictatorship or the military, Jokowi, as he’s commonly known (or simply Joko), carried the dreams of every Indonesian who wants a brighter future for his or her country.

  It's a huge load to carry and initially it seemed to overwhelm Jokowi. First came the wake-up call to wild expectations. Yes, he had humble roots and yes, he'd gained much praise as a reform-minded governor of Jakarta. But as the newly elected president, he gave no indication of being a radical ready to tear Indonesia away from the clutches of the powerful elite and military which have held control for decades. His vice president, Jusuf Kalla, has strong ties to the status quo (and in the landmark documentary Act of Killing, there's a clip of Kalla encouraging Suharto loyalists to commit violence). Jokowi took pains not to upset the establishment and in fact he showed an unexpected conservative streak.

  He did nothing to stop the passage of religiously driven restrictions on the sale of alcohol and he tacitly allowed local governments in Aceh and elsewhere to become ever-more fundamentalist. And Indonesia's relationship with Australia – always prone to drama – took a dive after Jokowi didn't stop the executions of two members of the so-called Bali Nine, Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran in April, 2015. The pair had been convicted of drug offences in 2006 and had then languished in Bali's notorious Kerobokan prison during a long series of appeals and calls for clemency.

  Many hoped that the perception of Jokowi as a man of the people would translate into compassion for prisoners but this was not the case. He not only rejected clemency for Chan and Sukumaran but stated that the 130 other people with Indonesian death sentences should expect similar treatment. Meanwhile, Indonesia's relations with Australia hit rock bottom as the plight of the Bali Nine became a cause celebre and ill-fated Australian prime minister Tony Abbott ineffectually demanded they receive compassion. (It should be noted, however, that calls for Australians to boycott their favourite party spot, Bali, were largely unheeded.)

  Jokowi's efforts to establish himself as President were hindered by his very own political party, the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDI-P), especially after the party's chief, former Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri, called him a mere functionary. His first cabinet was also filled with old party hacks who seemed more interested in quarrelling and jockeying for power than forcefully working to implement Jokowi's campaign promises of prosperity and economic fairness.

  In August, 2015, Jokowi announced a major cabinet reshuffle,
which saw technocrats named to replace party stalwarts as heads of powerful ministries. As he reached the end of his first year in office, Jokowi remained very much a work in progress as president, with many question marks around his ability to live up to his own lofty goals and those of the many people who had voted for him as a symbol of hope for a better Indonesia.

  The Economy Sputters

  For many years Indonesia has been one of Asia's top economic success stories. Its economy has grown by a robust 6% or more per year. But in 2015 this record ended as growth fizzled – the rate falling below 5% – which only added to the pressure on Jokowi.

  Indonesia's rapidly expanding population requires a growth rate of at least 6% so that the economy can absorb all the people entering the workforce. And local expectations are high, especially after the boom years when fully half the population achieved middle class status as defined by the World Bank and a majority of workers no longer toiled in subsistence agriculture.

  Meanwhile Indonesia's currency, the rupiah, all but collapsed against the US dollar. Although this is great for the relatively small number of US tourists who visit the archipelago, it's very bad news for Indonesia's small businesses which rely on goods and services with prices pegged to the dollar.