Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  Its ships operate set routes around the islands, either on a fortnightly or monthly schedule. The ships usually stop for a few hours in each port, so there's time for a quick look around. Note that sailing times can be in flux until the last moment.

  Fares can be quite cheap if you go for the economy classes but at higher levels of accommodation, budget airlines are competitive if not cheaper.

  Pelni ships range from the modern, clean and well-run to less-modern, less-well-run and less-clean. Some considerations:

  Booking Towns served by Pelni usually have a ticket office or agent. Book your ticket a few days in advance.

  Classes Pelni ships have two to six classes. Economy class, which is the modern version of deck class, is a bare-bones experience. As you move up the price ladder, you exchange a seat on the deck for small accommodations until you reach a level that may give you your own private cabin with two beds (this is some variation of first class). Note that these are functional at best and far from lavish.

  Security There are no locker facilities, so you have to keep an eye on your gear if you are in any kind of group class.

  Crowding At busy times, such as Idul Fitri, boats seem to have passengers crammed into every available space including decks, passages and stairwells. Conditions can get grim.

  Food Bring your own food and drink. Where there are food facilities, the conditions are basic and if the boat is crowded you may have a hard time stepping over other passengers to reach the restaurant.

  Boarding Getting aboard a Pelni ship can leave you bruised as it is truly every man, woman and child for him or herself as people try to get to scarce space first.

  Other Vessels

  There's a whole range of boats you can use to hop between islands, down rivers and across lakes. Just about any sort of vessel can be rented in Indonesia. Some boat options:

  Fast Ferries When available, these are a great alternative to the slow car ferries that link many islands.

  Fishing boats Small boats can be chartered to take you to small offshore islands.

  Longboat The longbot is a long, narrow boat powered by a couple of outboard motors, with bench seats on either side of the hull for passengers to sit on. They are mainly used in Kalimantan where they are also called klotok.

  Outrigger boats Used for some short inter-island hops, such as the trip out from Manado in North Sulawesi to the coral reefs surrounding nearby Pulau Bunaken. On Lombok they serve the Gilis, while Komodo National Park is served from Labuanbajo. On Bali they are called jukung.

  River ferries Commonly found on Kalimantan, where the rivers are the roads. They're large, bulky vessels that carry passengers and cargo up and down the water network.

  Tourist boats Often very fast speedboats outfitted to carry 40 or more passengers, most commonly used for quick trips between Bali, Nusa Lembongan, Lombok and the Gilis.

  TRAVELLING SAFELY BY BOAT

  Boat safety is an important consideration across Indonesia, where boats that barely seem seaworthy may be your only option to travel between islands. In many cases these services are accidents waiting to happen, as safety regulation is lax at best.

  This is especially true on the busy routes linking Bali, Nusa Lembongan, Lombok and the Gilis, where both the fast tourist boats and the public car ferries have had accidents. Given Indonesia's poor record, it is essential that you take responsibility for your own safety, as no one else will.

  Consider the following points for any boat travel in Indonesia:

  Bigger is better It may take you 30 minutes or more longer, but a larger boat will simply deal with the open ocean better than the over-powered small speedboats.

  Check for safety equipment Make certain your boat has life preservers and that you know how to locate and use them. In an emergency, don’t expect a panicked crew to hand them out. Also, check for life rafts.

  Avoid over-crowding Travellers report boats leaving with more people than seats and with aisles jammed with stacked luggage.

  Look for exits Cabins may only have one narrow entrance making them death traps in an accident.

  Avoid fly-by-nighters Taking a fishing boat and jamming too many engines on the rear in order to cash in on booming tourism is a recipe for disaster.

  Bus

  Buses are the mainstay of Indonesian transport (excepting Papua). At any time of the day, thousands of buses in all shapes and sizes move thousands of people throughout Indonesia. The 'leave-when-full' school of scheduling applies to almost every service, and 'full' sometimes means the aisles are occupied too. Consider the following:

  On major runs across Indonesia, air-con buses are at least somewhat tolerable.

  Crowded roads mean that buses are often stuck in traffic.

  On major routes, say the 24-hour run from Bali to Jakarta, budget airlines are competitive price-wise.

  Buses on non-major routes are usually not air-conditioned.

  Bring as little luggage as possible – there is rarely any room for storage. Large bags will ride on your lap.

  Take precautions with your personal belongings and keep your passport, money and any other valuables secure and concealed.

  Classes

  The main classes of bus:

  Economy-class (ekonomi) buses that run set routes between towns. They can be hot, slow and crowded, but they're also ridiculously cheap and provide a never-ending parade of Indonesian life.

  Express (patas) buses look much the same as the economy buses, but stop only at selected bus terminals en route and (officially) don't pick up from the side of the road. Air-con patas buses are more comfortable and seating is often guaranteed.

  Air-con buses (or 'executive' buses) come in a variety of price categories, depending on whether facilities include reclining seats, toilets, TV, karaoke (usually very bad) or snacks. These buses should be booked in advance; ticket agents often have pictures of the buses and seating plans; check to see what you are paying for when you choose your seat.

  Tickets

  Buses tickets are cheap. For long-distance buses, you can buy your ticket from a travel agent or you can visit the bus terminal where you may find several companies competing for your business. Book longer trips in advance, especially on air-con buses.

  Often, hotels will act as agents or buy a ticket for you and will arrange for the bus to pick you up at the hotel – they sometimes charge a few thousand rupiah for this service but it's worth it.

  Car & Motorcycle

  Driving Licence

  To drive in Indonesia, you officially need an International Driving Permit (IDP) from your local automobile association. This permit is rarely required as identification when hiring/driving a car in Indonesia, but police may ask to see it. Bring your home licence as well – it's supposed to be carried in conjunction with the IDP. If you also have a motorcycle licence at home, get your IDP endorsed for motorcycles too.

  Fuel

  After decades of subsidies, fuel prices are now adjusted to reflect international oil prices. Only recently, premium petrol cost 9500Rp per litre (still cheap by Western standards). The opening of the domestic fuel market to foreign operators has spurred national oil company Pertamina to build full-service outlets (pompa bensin) throughout the archipelago.

  Hire

  Car Hire

  Small self-drive 4WDs can be hired for as little as 100,000Rp to 300,000Rp a day with limited insurance in tourist areas.

  It is very common for tourists to hire a car with a driver and this can usually be arranged for 400,000Rp to 1,400,000Rp per day (600,000Rp per day is average in popular places like Bali).

  With a small group, a van and driver is not only economical but also allows maximum travel and touring freedom. Hotels can always arrange drivers.

  Considering the relatively small cost of a driver in relation to the total rental, it makes little sense to take the wheel yourself. Driving requires enormous amounts of concentration and the legal implications of accidents can be a nightmare, as a foreigner – i
t's your fault.

  Motorcycle Hire

  Motorcycles and motorbikes are readily available for hire throughout Indonesia.

  Motorcycles and scooters can be hired for 30,000Rp to 100,000Rp per day.

  Wearing a helmet is required by law and essential given road conditions.

  In popular surfing areas, many motorbike rentals come with a surfboard rack.

  A licence is required by law, though you'll rarely need to show it unless stopped by the police, who may be looking for a 'tip'.

  Some travel insurance policies do not cover you if you are involved in an accident while on a motorcycle and/or don't have a licence. Check the small print.

  Insurance

  Rental agencies and owners usually insist that the vehicle itself is insured, and minimal insurance should be included in the basic rental deal – often with an excess of as much as US$100 for a motorcycle and US$500 for a car (ie the customer pays the first US$100/500 of any claim).

  Your travel insurance may provide some additional protection, although liability for motor accidents is specifically excluded from many policies.

  A private owner renting out a motorcycle may not offer any insurance at all. Ensure that your personal travel insurance covers injuries incurred while motorcycling.

  Road Conditions

  Relentless traffic congestion across many parts of Indonesia makes driving an exhausting activity.

  Delays due to road works, poor conditions and congestion are common.

  Finding your way around can be a challenge, as roads are only sometimes signposted and maps are often out of date.

  In much of the country, count on averaging only 35km per hour.

  Road Rules

  Indonesians drive on the left side of the road (sometimes the right, sometimes the pavement), as in Australia, Japan, the UK and most of Southeast Asia.

  Hitching

  Hitching is not part of the culture but if you put out your thumb, someone may give you a lift. On the back roads where no public transport exists, hitching may be the only alternative to walking, and passing motorists or trucks are often willing to help.

  Bear in mind, however, that hitching is never entirely safe in any country, so we do not recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk.

  Local Transport

  Becak

  These are three-wheeled carts either peddle- or motor-powered. The becak is now banned from the main streets of some large cities, but you'll still see them swarming the back streets, moving anyone and anything.

  Negotiate your fare before you get in; and if there are two passengers, make sure that it covers both people, otherwise you'll be in for an argument when you get to your destination. Becak drivers are hard bargainers but they will usually settle on a reasonable fare, around 2000Rp to 5000Rp per kilometre.

  Bus

  Large buses aren't used much as a means of city transport except on Java (although there is a small system on Bali). There's an extensive system of buses in Jakarta and these are universally cheap; beware of pickpockets.

  Dokar

  A dokar is the jingling, horse-drawn, two-wheeled cart found throughout the archipelago including tourist areas. A typical dokar (or cidomo as it's known in some areas such as the Gilis) has bench seating on either side, which can comfortably fit three or four people.

  Given that many horses and ponies are mistreated, we can't recommend dokars.

  Minibus

  Public minibuses are used for local transport around cities and towns, short intercity runs and the furthest reaches of the transport network.

  Minibuses are known as bemos or angkot, although they are called taksi in many parts of Papua, Kalimantan and East Java. Other names include opelet, mikrolet, angkudes and pete-pete.

  Most minibuses operate a standard route, picking up and dropping off people and goods anywhere along the way.

  Minibus drivers may try to overcharge foreigners and ask you for triple the normal fare. It's best to ask somebody, such as your hotel staff, about the harga biasa (normal price); otherwise, see what the other passengers are paying and offer the correct fare.

  Drivers wait until their vehicles are crammed to capacity before moving, or they may go keliling – driving endlessly around town looking for a full complement of passengers.

  Conditions can be extremely cramped, especially if you have luggage.

  On Bali, motorbikes are nearly universal and the bemo system is in decline.

  Ojek

  Ojeks (or ojegs) are motorcycle riders who take pillion passengers for a bargainable price. They are found at bus terminals and markets, or just hanging around at crossroads. They will take you around town and go where no other public transport exists, or along roads that are impassable in any other vehicle. They are the preferred method for navigating Jakarta traffic. They can also be rented by the hour for sightseeing.

  Go-jek (www.go-jek.com) is an Uber-style service where you can order an ojek using a smartphone app at a fair price. It operates in major cities.

  Private Cars

  Small air-con minivans carrying paying passengers (known in some areas as Taksi Gelap) are becoming common in some areas. Typically linking major towns on main highways, the cost can be only a bit more than a bus but offer greater comfort and speed. Hotels usually have info on these services and can arrange pick-ups.

  However these vehicles are unregulated and safety standards vary widely, if they exist at all.

  Taxi

  Metered taxis are readily available in major cities. If a taxi has a meter (argo), make sure it is used. Where meters don't exist, you will have to bargain for the fare in advance. Offers of 'transport' are almost always more costly than using a metered taxi.

  With services in major cities and tourist areas including south Bali, Bluebird Taxis (www.bluebirdgroup.com) are a good choice as drivers use the meter, speak some English and are honest. The smartphone app makes ordering a taxi a breeze.

  Uber is active in larger cities.

  At airports, taxis usually operate on a prepaid system, payable at the relevant booth.

  Tours

  A wide range of trips can be booked from tour companies within Indonesia. Some of the best tours are with local guides, such as the ecotrips to Halimun National Park in Java with local guides in Bogor. We recommend dozens of local options.

  There are also specialist tour companies that utilise their in-depth knowledge of local dialects, culture and experience to create experiences you'd have a hard time equalling independently.

  Finally there are numerous operators that can transport you around the archipelago in high style, say in a classic sailing ship.

  A few to consider:

  Adventure Indonesia (www.adventureindonesia.com) Top Indonesian adventure-tourism firm.

  Dewi Nusantara (www.dewi-nusantara.com) A 57m, three-masted traditional-style sailing ship that makes luxurious live-aboard diving journeys around the Malukus and Raja Ampat.

  Laszlo Wagner (www.east-indonesia.info) An experienced Hungarian-born writer offers tailor-made trips around Maluku and Papua.

  SeaTrek Sailing Adventures (www.seatrekbali.com) Runs itineraries on sailing ships from Bali to Flores, as well as Banda Islands and Papua trips.

  Silolona Sojurns (www.silolona.com) This luxury yacht built in the style of classic Spice Islands trading vessels sails through Nusa Tenggara, Maluku and Papua.

  Train

  Train travel in Indonesia is restricted to Java and Sumatra.

  In Java, trains are one of the most comfortable, fastest and easiest ways to travel. In the east, the railway service connects with the ferry to Bali, and in the west with the ferry to Sumatra. Sumatra's limited rail network runs in the south from Bandarlampung to Lubuklinggau, and in the north from Medan to Tanjung Balai and Rantau Prapat.

  There are three classes; smoking is not allowed in any.

  Executive (eksecutif) – air-con wi
th mandatory reservations.

  Business (bisnis) – no air-con but mandatory seat reservations.

  Economy (ekonomi) – no air-con, crowded and unreserved.

  The railway's website (www.kereta-api.co.id) has information; use the drop-down menu 'Reservasi' and then 'Jadwal' (schedule) for schedules.

  Health

  Before You Go

  In Indonesia

  Health

  Treatment for minor injuries and common traveller's health problems is easily accessed in larger cities and on Bali but standards decline the more remote you get in Indonesia. For serious conditions, you will need to leave Indonesia.

  Travellers tend to worry about contracting infectious diseases when in the tropics, but infections are a rare cause of serious illness or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical conditions, such as heart disease, and accidental injury (especially traffic accidents) account for most life-threatening problems.

  It's important to note what precautions you should take in Indonesia. On Bali your major concerns are rabies, mosquito bites and the tropical sun. Elsewhere in the country there are numerous important considerations.

  The advice we give is a general guide only and does not replace the advice of a doctor trained in travel medicine.