Pearls before Poppies

by Rachel Trethewey

  18 ‘Hostels for Relatives of Wounded in France and Belgium’, Reports of the Joint Committee 1920, Red Cross Archives.

  19 ‘Graves Fund’, Reports of the Joint Committee 1920, Red Cross Archives.

  20 ‘Summaries of Work’, October 1918, p.8; December 1918, p.14; December 1918 (no. 106) p.11. ‘Rehabilitation after the First World War’, redcross.org.uk/WW1.

  21 ‘Star and Garter Home’, The Times, 11 July 1924, p.11.

  22 Laurence Spring, ‘Star and Garter Home – Surrey in the Great War’, Surrey History Centre, www.surreyinthegreatwar.org.uk.

  23 Ibid.

  24 Ibid.

  25 ‘The Royal Star and Garter Homes’, starandgarter.org.uk.

  26 ‘Rehabilitation after the First World War’, redcross.org.uk/WW1.

  27 ‘Star and Garter Home’, The Times, 11 July 1924, p.11.

  28 ‘Homes for the Totally Disabled’, The Times, 3 June 1916, p.9.

  29 ‘Rehabilitation after the First World War’, redcross.org.uk/WW1.

  30 Alfred Harmsworth Northcliffe, p.25.

  31 ‘Earl of Rothes Sells his Fife Estate’, Dundee Courier, 21 June 1919.

  32 Jeremy Paxman, p.284.

  33 Christopher Simon Sykes, Private Palaces: Life in the Great London House (London: Chatto & Windus, 1985) pp.322–23.

  34 Ibid., p.328.

  35 The Times, 19 May 1920. Quoted in Christopher Simon Sykes, p.322.

  36 Mary Wemyss to Ettie Desborough, 3 December 1916. Desborough Papers, Hertfordshire Archives and Local Studies: D/ERVC477/50.

  37 ‘The Red Cross Pearl Necklace’, Illustrated London News, 8 March 1919, p.25.

  38 Emma Clarke, press and marketing at Mikimoto, London.

  39 Beatriz Chadour-Sampson with Hubert Bari, p.28.

  40 ‘A Japanese Pearl Farm’, Yorkshire Evening Post, 19 June 1914, p.6.

  41 Beatriz Chadour-Sampson with Hubert Bari, pp.27–29.

  42 ‘The Pearl Puzzle’, Dundee Evening Telegraph, 1 August 1921, p.11.

  43 ‘Pearl Cultivation’, Lincolnshire Echo, 7 May 1921, p.4.

  44 Emma Clarke, press and marketing at Mikimoto, London.

  45 Ibid.

  46 Emma Clarke, press and marketing at Mikimoto, London.

  47 Jane Mulvagh, p.64.

  48 ‘World Control of Pearls’, Hull Daily Mail, 25 May 1936, p.5.

  49 ‘A Bonfire of Pearls’, Dundee Evening Telegraph, 15 April 1937, p.3.

  50 Emma Clarke, press and marketing at Mikimoto, London.

  51 ‘Spirit Oysters’, Nottingham Evening Post, 2 December 1936, p.6.

  52 Bronwyn Cosgrave, Vogue on: Coco Chanel (London: Quadrille Publishing, 2012) p.54.

  53 Ibid., p.56.

  54 Ibid., p.58.

  55 Justine Picardie, p.163.

  56 Bronwyn Cosgrave, p.64.

  57 Justine Picardie, p.168.

  58 Justine Picardie, p.183.

  59 Justine Picardie, p.168.

  60 Jane Mulvagh, p.52.

  61 Bronwyn Cosgrave, p.69.

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  Lady Northcliffe as a young society hostess. (© LaFayette/Victoria and Albert Museum, London)

 
Lady Northcliffe ready to launch her pearl campaign, 1918. Photograph after she received her OBE. (© Illustrated First World War online/Mary Evans Picture Library)

  Princess Victoria, president of the Pearl Appeal, wearing a long string of pearls in 1914. (Royal Collection Trust/© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, 2018 RCIN 2913342)

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  Letty Elcho sketched by John Singer Sargent. (© Lord Wemyss, Stanway)

  Ego Elcho sketched by John Singer Sargent. (© Lord Wemyss, Stanway)

  Letty Elcho and her boys. (© Mary Evans Picture Library)

  Ettie Desborough with her two sons Julian and Billy when they were boys. (© The Rt Hon. N. Viscount Gage/The British Library, 10864, p.27)

  Ettie Desborough with her two sons during the war. (© Mary Evans Picture Library)

  Katherine MacDonald wearing her nursing sister uniform. (© George Metcalf Archival Collection, Canadian War Museum: CWM 19950037-011)

  Funeral of the three Canadian nursing sisters and a Canadian doctor. (© George Metcalf Archival Collection, Canadian War Museum: CWM 19930012-179)