Moon Coastal Carolinas

by Jim Morekis

  Mexican

  The quesadillas at Juanita Greenberg’s Nacho Royale (439 King St., 843/723-6224, www.juanitagreenbergs.com, daily 11am-11pm, $6-8) are perfectly packed with jack cheese but not overly so, full of spicy sausage, and finished with a delightful pico de gallo. This modest Mexican joint on Upper King caters primarily to a college crowd, as you can tell from the reasonable prices, the large patio out back, the extensive tequila list, and the bar that stays open until 2am on weekends.

  Seafood

  The best mussels I’ve ever had were at S 39 Rue de Jean (39 John St., 843/722-8881, Mon.-Thurs. 11:30am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30am-1am, Sun. 10am-11pm, $16-25). But anything off the bistro-style menu is unbelievably tasty, from the foie gras to the comfit to the coq au vin to the steak frites. There are incredible Prohibition-style cocktails to go along with the extensive wine list.

  Near Rue de Jean you’ll find the affiliated COAST Bar and Grill (39D John St., 843/722-8838, www.coastbarandgrill.com, daily from 5:30pm, $18-30), which makes the most of its loud, hip former warehouse setting. The raw bar is satisfying, with a particularly nice take on and selection of ceviche. COAST is a strong local advocate of the Sustainable Seafood Initiative, whereby restaurants work directly with the local fishing industry.

  COLLEGE OF CHARLESTON AREA

  New Southern

  Focusing on purely seasonal offerings that never stay on the menu longer than three months, S Circa 1886 (149 Wentworth St., 843/853-7828, www.circa1886.com, Mon.-Sat. 5:30pm-9:30pm, $23-32) combines the best Old World tradition of Charleston with the vibrancy of its more adventurous kitchens. The restaurant—surprisingly little-known despite its four-star Mobil rating—is located in the former carriage house of the grand Wentworth Mansion B&B just west of the main College of Charleston campus. It is now the playground of Chef Marc Collins, who delivers entrées like a robust beef au poivre and a shrimp-and-crab stuffed flounder, to name two recent offerings. Be sure to check the daily prix fixe offerings; those can be some great deals.

  entrée at Circa 1886

  HAMPTON PARK AREA

  Classic Southern

  Moe’s Crosstown Tavern (714 Rutledge Ave., 843/722-3287, Mon.-Sat. 11am-midnight, bar until 2am, $10-15) is not only one of the classic Southern dives but has one of the best kitchens on this side of town, known for hand-cut fries, great wings, and, most of all, excellent burgers. On Tuesdays, the burgers are half price at happy hour—one of Charleston’s best deals.

  With a motto like “Grits are good for you,” you know what you’re in store for at Hominy Grill (207 Rutledge Ave., 912/937-0930, breakfast Mon.-Fri. 7:30am-11:30am, lunch and dinner daily 11:30am-8:30pm, brunch Sat.-Sun. 9am-3pm, $10-20), set in a renovated barbershop at Rutledge Avenue and Cannon Street near the Medical University of South Carolina. Primarily revered for his Sunday brunch, Chef Robert Stehling has fun—almost mischievously so—breathing new life into American and Southern classics. Because this is largely a locals’ place, you can impress your friends back home by saying you had the rare pleasure of the Hominy’s sautéed shad roe with bacon and mushrooms—when the shad are running, that is.

  Italian

  A new rave of Charleston foodies is the Tuscan-inspired fare of Chef Ken Vedrinski at S Trattoria Lucca (41 Bogard St., 843/973-3323, www.trattorialuccadining.com, Tues.-Thurs. 6pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 6pm-11pm, Sun. 5pm-8pm, $20-23). The menu is simple but perfectly focused, featuring handmade pasta and signature items like the pork chop or the fresh cheese plate. You’ll be surprised at how much food your money gets you here. Sunday evenings see a family-style prix fixe communal dinner.

  WEST ASHLEY

  American

  The kitchen at Gene’s Haufbrau (17 Savannah Hwy., 843/225-4363, www.geneshaufbrau.com, daily 11:30am-1am, $6-10) complements its fairly typical bar-food menu with some good wraps. Start with the “Drunken Trio” (beer-battered cheese sticks, mushrooms, and onion rings) and follow with a portobello wrap or a good old-fashioned crawfish po’boy. One of the best meals for the money in town is Gene’s rotating $6.95 blue plate special, offered Monday-Friday 11:30am-4:30pm. The late-night kitchen hours, until 1am, are a big plus.

  Barbecue

  My favorite barbecue joint anywhere, the rowdy and always hopping S Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ (1205 Ashley River Rd., 843/225-7427, www.hometeambbq.com, Mon.-Sat. 11am-9pm, Sun. 11:30am-9pm, $7-20) has pulled pork and ribs that rank with the best I’ve had anywhere in the country. Even the sides are amazing here, including perfect collards and tasty mac-and-cheese. Chef Madison Ruckel provides an array of table-side sauces, including hot sauce, indigenous South Carolina mustard sauce, and his own “Alabama white,” a light and delicious mayonnaise-based sauce. As if that weren’t enough, the owners’ close ties to the regional jam-band community means there’s great live blues and indie rock after 10pm most nights (Thursday is bluegrass night) to spice up the bar action, which goes until 2am.

  Classic Southern

  Tucked away on the grounds of the Middleton Place Plantation is the romantic Middleton Place Restaurant (843/556-6020, www.middletonplace.org, lunch daily 11am-3pm, dinner Sun. and Tues.-Thurs. 6pm-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 6pm-9pm, $15-25). Theirs is a respectful take on traditional plantation fare like hoppin’ John, gumbo, she-crab soup, and collards. The special annual Thanksgiving buffet is a real treat. Reservations are required for dinner. A nice plus is being able to wander the gorgeous landscaped gardens before dusk if you arrive at 5:30pm or later with a dinner reservation.

  Mediterranean

  Anything on this northern Italian-themed menu is good, but the risotto—a legacy of original chef John Marshall—is the specialty dish at Al Di La (25 Magnolia Rd., 843/571-2321, www.aldilarestaurant.com, Tues.-Sat. 6pm-10pm, $13-20), a very popular West Ashley fine-dining spot. Reservations are recommended.

  New Southern

  One of the more unassuming advocates of farm-to-table dining, S Glass Onion (1219 Savannah Hwy., 843/225-1717, www.ilovetheglassonion.com, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. 4pm-10pm, brunch Sat. 10am-3pm, $15) is also in an unassuming location on U.S. 17 (Savannah Hwy.) on the western approach to town. That said, their food is right in the thick of the sustainable food movement, and is also incredibly tasty to boot (not to mention that there is more parking than downtown). The interior says “diner,” and indeed the emphasis here is on Southern soul and comfort food classics. A recent trip saw a duck leg with pork belly as a special entrée, and a chicken and andouille gumbo that was zesty without being overspiced, thick without being pasty. There are occasional “all-you-can-eat quail” nights, and every Tuesday is Fried Chicken Dinner night, offering what many insist is the best fried chicken in Charleston. The Glass Onion also boasts a good variety of specialty craft brews to wash it all down with. Another plus: In this town full of Sunday brunches, Glass Onion’s specialty is a Saturday brunch!

  MOUNT PLEASANT

  Most restaurant action in Mount Pleasant centers on the picturesque shrimping village of Shem Creek, which is dotted on both banks with bars and restaurants, most dealing in fresh local seafood. As with Murrells Inlet up the coast, some spots on Shem Creek border on tourist traps. Don’t be afraid to go where the lines aren’t.

  Seafood

  A well-regarded spot on Shem Creek is Water’s Edge (1407 Shrimp Boat Ln., 843/884-4074, daily 11am-11pm, $20-30), which consistently takes home a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for its great selection of vintages. Native Charlestonian Jimmy Purcell concentrates on fresh seafood with a slightly more upscale flair than many Shem Creek places.

  Right down the road from Water’s Edge is another popular spot, especially for a younger crowd: Vickery’s Shem Creek Bar and Grill (1313 Shrimp Boat Ln., 843/884-4440, daily 11:30am-1am, $11-16). With a similar menu to its partner location on the peninsula, this Vickery’s has the pleasant added bonus of a beautiful view overlooking the creek. You’ll get more of the Vickery’s Cuban flair here, with a great black bean soup and an awesome Cuban sandwich.

  If yo
u find yourself thirsty and hungry in Mount Pleasant after dark, you might want to stop in the Red Drum Gastropub (803 Coleman Blvd., 843/849-0313, www.reddrumrestaurant.com, Mon.-Tues. 5:30pm-9pm, Wed.-Sat. 5:30pm-10pm, $15), so named because the food here is just as important as the drink. While you’re likely to need reservations for the dining room, where you can enjoy Lowcountry-Tex-Mex fusion-style cuisine with a typically Mount Pleasant-like emphasis on seafood, the bar scene is very hopping and fun, with live music every Wednesday-Thursday night.

  Vegetarian

  For a vegetarian-friendly change of pace from seafood, go to the Mustard Seed (1026 Chuck Dawley Blvd., 843/849-0050, Mon.-Sat. 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-9:30pm, $14-18). The pad thai is probably the best thing on New York-trained Chef Sal Parco’s creative and dynamic menu, but you might also get a kick out of the sweet potato ravioli.

  For a real change of pace, try The Sprout Cafe (629 Johnnie Dodds Blvd., 843/849-8554, www.thehealthysprout.com, Mon.-Fri. 6am-8pm, Sat. 9am-3pm, Sun. 11am-3pm, $3-10) on U.S. 17. Dealing totally in raw foods, the obvious emphasis here is on health and freshness of ingredients. You might be surprised at the inventiveness of their breakfast-through-dinner seasonal menu—memorably described by the staff as “grab and go”—which might include a tasty crepe topped with a pear-and-nut puree and maple syrup, or a raw squash and zucchini “pasta” dish topped with walnut “meatballs.”

  SULLIVAN’S ISLAND

  A new location of S Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ (2209 Middle St., 843/883-3131, www.hometeambbq.com, kitchen Mon.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11:30am-11pm, $8-14) provides the same incredible melt-in-your-mouth pork and ribs made famous by the original West Ashley location. For a friendly bite and an adult beverage or two, go straight to Poe’s Tavern (2210 Middle St., 843/883-0083, daily 11am-2am, kitchen until 10pm, $10), a nod to Edgar Allan Poe’s stint at nearby Fort Moultrie.

  FOLLY BEACH

  Breakfast and Brunch

  The closest thing to a taste of old Folly is the Lost Dog Café (106 W. Huron St., 843/588-9669, daily 6:30am-3pm, $5-7), so named for its bulletin board stacked with alerts about lost pets, pets for adoption, and newborn pets for sale or giveaway. They open early, the better to offer a tasty, healthy breakfast to the surfing crowd. It’s a great place to pick up a quick, inexpensive, and tasty meal while you’re near the beach.

  Mexican

  Taco Boy (15 Center St., 843/588-9761, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, $5-15) is a fun place to get a fish taco, have a margarita, and take a walk on the nearby beach afterward. Though no one is under any illusions that this is an authentic Mexican restaurant, the fresh guacamole is particularly rave-worthy, and there’s a good selection of tequilas and beers hecho en México, with the bar staying open until 2am on weekends.

  Seafood

  Fans of the legendary S Bowens Island Restaurant (1870 Bowens Island Rd., 843/795-2757, Tues.-Sat. 5pm-10pm, $5-15, cash only), on James Island just before you get to Folly, went into mourning when it burned to the ground in 2006. But you can’t keep a good oysterman down, and owner Robert Barber rebuilt. A universe removed from the Lexus-and-khaki scene downtown, Bowens Island isn’t the place for the uptight. This is the place to go when you want shovels of oysters literally thrown onto your table, freshly steamed and delicious and all-you-can-eat. The fried shrimp, flounder, and hush puppies are incredible too. To get there from the peninsula, take Calhoun Street west onto the James Island Connector (Hwy. 30). Take exit 3 onto Highway 171 South and look for Bowens Island Road on the right. The restaurant will be on the left in a short while, after passing by several ritzy McMansions that in no way resemble the restaurant you’re about to experience.

  NORTH CHARLESTON

  If you have a hankering for pizza in North Charleston, don’t miss EVO Pizzeria (1075 E. Montague Ave., 843/225-1796, www.evopizza.com, lunch Tues.-Fri. 11am-2:30pm, dinner Tues.-Fri. 5pm-10pm, Sat. 6pm-10pm, $10-15) in the Olde North Charleston area at Park Circle. They specialize in a small but rich menu of unusual gourmet pizza toppings, like pistachio pesto.

  MARKETS AND GROCERIES

  A fun and favorite local fixture April-mid-December, the Charleston Farmers Market (843/724-7309, www.charlestoncity.info, Sat. 8am-2pm) rings beautiful Marion Square with stalls of local produce, street eats, local arts and crafts, and kids’ activities. Running April-October, East Cooper has its own version in the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market (843/884-8517, http://townofmountpleasant.com, Tues. 3pm-dark) at the Moultrie Middle School on Coleman Boulevard.

  For organic groceries or a quick healthy bite while you’re in Mount Pleasant, check out Whole Foods (923 Houston Northcutt Blvd., 843/971-7240, daily 8am-9pm). Mount Pleasant also boasts a Trader Joe’s (1724 Ashley River Rd., 843/766-2347, www.traderjoes.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm).

  The biggest and best supermarket near the downtown area is the regional chain Harris Teeter (290 E. Bay St., 843/722-6821, daily 24 hours). There are other Harris Teeter stores in Mount Pleasant (920 Houston Northcutt Blvd. and 620 Long Point Rd., 843/881-4448) and Folly Beach (675 Folly Rd., 843/406-8977). For a charming grocery shopping experience, try longtime local favorite King Street Grocery (435 King St., 843/958-8004, daily 8am-midnight) on Upper King. If you’re down closer to the Battery, go to the delightful Queen Street Grocery (133 Queen St., 843/723-4121, Mon.-Sat. 8am-8:30pm, kitchen Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-3pm). Need groceries at 4am in Folly Beach? Go to Bert’s Market (202 E. Ashley Ave., 843/588-9449, daily 24 hours).

  Information and Services

  VISITORS CENTERS

  I highly recommend a stop at the Charleston Visitor Reception and Transportation Center (375 Meeting St., 800/774-0006, www.charlestoncvb.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm). Housed in a modern building with an inviting, open design, the center has several high-tech interactive exhibits, including an amazing model of the city under glass. Wall after wall of well-stocked, well-organized brochures will keep you informed on everything a visitor would ever want to know about or see in the city. A particularly welcoming touch is the inclusion of the work of local artists all around the center.

  I recommend using the attached parking garage not only for your stop at the center but also anytime you want to see the many sights this part of town has to offer, such as the Charleston Museum, the Manigault and Aiken-Rhett Houses, and the Children’s Museum.

  The big selling point of the center is the friendliness of the smiling and courteous staff, who welcome you in true Charleston fashion and are there to book rooms and tours and find tickets for shows and attractions.

  If for no other reason, you should go to the center to take advantage of the great deal offered by the Charleston Heritage Passport (www.heritagefederation.org), which gives you 40 percent off admission to all of Charleston’s key historic homes, the Charleston Museum, and the two awesome plantation sites on the Ashley River: Drayton Hall and Middleton Place. You can get the Heritage Passport only at the Charleston Visitor Reception and Transportation Center on Meeting Street.

  Other area visitors centers include the Mt. Pleasant-Isle of Palms Visitors Center (99 Harry M. Hallman Jr. Blvd., 800/774-0006, daily 9am-5pm) and the North Charleston Visitors Center (4975B Centre Pointe Dr., 843/853-8000, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm).

  HOSPITALS

  If there’s a silver lining in getting sick or injured in Charleston, it’s that there are plenty of high-quality medical facilities available. The premier institution is the Medical University of South Carolina (171 Ashley Ave., 843/792-2300, www.muschealth.com) in the northwest part of the peninsula. Two notable facilities are near each other downtown: Roper Hospital (316 Calhoun St., 843/402-2273, www.roperhospital.com) and Charleston Memorial Hospital (326 Calhoun St., 843/792-2300). In Mount Pleasant there’s East Cooper Regional Medical Center (1200 Johnnie Dodds Blvd., www.eastcoopermedctr.com). In West Ashley there’s Bon Secours St. Francis Hospital (2095 Henry Tecklenburg Ave., 843/402-2273, www.ropersaintfrancis.com).

  POLICE

  For nonemergencies in Charleston, West Ashl
ey, and James Island, contact the Charleston Police Department (843/577-7434, www.charlestoncity.info). You can also contact the police department in Mount Pleasant (843/884-4176). North Charleston is a separate municipality with its own police department (843/308-4718, www.northcharleston.org). Of course, for emergencies always call 911.

  MEDIA

  Newspapers

  The daily newspaper of record is the Post and Courier (www.charleston.net). Its entertainment insert, Preview, comes out on Thursdays. The free alternative weekly is the Charleston City Paper (www.charlestoncitypaper.com), which comes out on Wednesdays and is the best place to find local music and arts listings. A particularly well-done and lively metro glossy is Charleston magazine (www.charlestonmag.com), which comes out once a month.

  Radio and Television

  The National Public Radio affiliate is the South Carolina ETV radio station WSCI at 89.3 FM. South Carolina ETV is on television at WITV. The local NBC affiliate is WCBD, the CBS affiliate is WCSC, the ABC affiliate is WCIV, and the Fox affiliate is WTAT.