by Jim Morekis
Myrtle Beach went through a similarly anxious state of events in the mid-1990s with the closing of Myrtle Beach Air Force Base. As with Charleston, the local economy appears to have weathered the worst effects of the closing.
Farther down the coast, Beaufort is home to the Naval Hospital Beaufort and the Marine Corps Air Station Beaufort and its six squadrons of FA-18 Hornets. On nearby Parris Island is the legendary Marine Corps Recruit Depot Parris Island, which puts all new Marine recruits from east of the Mississippi River through rigorous basic training.
Coastal North Carolina also has an expansive military presence, especially the U.S. Marines, who train at Camp Lejeune and its satellite facilities. Havelock, North Carolina, hosts Marine Corps Air Station Cherry Point.
A little farther inland, Fayetteville is of course the home of sprawling Fort Bragg, home of the 82nd Airborne Division and U.S. Army Special Forces. Pope Air Force Base is directly adjacent.
Of course, tourism is also an important factor in the local economies of the area, particularly in seasonal, resort-oriented areas like Hilton Head, Myrtle Beach, Kiawah, and Seabrook Islands. Charleston also has a well-honed tourist infrastructure, bringing at least $5 billion a year into the local economy, and is routinely voted as one of the top three American cities to visit.
Almost all parts of the Carolina coast have become havens for transplants and retirees looking for better weather and/or cheaper housing, as well as generally high quality of life (except for the hurricanes!). The so-called Inner Banks of North Carolina—actually a recent term concocted by Chamber of Commerce-types and the real estate industry—is particularly bullish on attracting retirees from other areas of the country, as is the Beaufort-Bluffton-Hilton Head area of South Carolina.
Another huge economic development on the coast has been the exponential growth of the Charleston seaport. From the 1990s on, the quickened pace of globalization has brought enormous investment, volume, and expansion to area port facilities. Charleston’s port experienced record volume in 2006-2007, though the recent economic downturn has hurt business.
People and Culture
Contrary to how they are often portrayed in the media, the Carolinas are hardly exclusive to natives with thick, flowery accents who still obsess over the Civil War and eat grits three meals a day. As you will quickly discover, the entire coastal area is becoming heavily populated with transplants from other parts of the country. In some of these places you can actually go quite a long time without hearing even one of those Scarlett O’Hara accents.
Some of this is due to the region’s increasing attractiveness to professionals and artists, drawn by the temperate climate, natural beauty, and business-friendly environment. Part of it is due to its increasing attractiveness to retirees, most of them from the frigid Northeast. Indeed, in some places, chief among them Hilton Head, the most common accent is a New York or New Jersey one, and a Southern accent is rare.
In any case, don’t make the common mistake of assuming you’re coming to a place where footwear is optional and electricity is a recent development (though it’s true that many of the islands didn’t get electricity until the 1950s and ’60s). Because so much new construction has gone on in the South in the last quarter-century or so, you might find some aspects of the infrastructure—specifically the roads and the electrical utilities—actually superior to where you came from.
POPULATION
The 2010 U.S. Census put South Carolina’s population at 4,679,230. Population statistics for individual cities in the state can be misleading because of South Carolina’s notoriously strict annexation laws, which make it nearly impossible for a city to annex growing suburbs.
In rough order of rank, the largest official metropolitan areas in South Carolina are Columbia (767,000), Charleston/North Charleston/Summerville (664,000), Greenville/Mauldin/Easley (636,000), Myrtle Beach/North Myrtle Beach/Conway (329,000), Florence (200,000), and Hilton Head/Beaufort (170,000).
Although its coast often seems less populated than the Palmetto State’s, North Carolina is actually a much more populous state, coming in at number 10 in the nation with a total population of 9,222,000. Its largest metro areas tend to be clusters of several cities, for example Charlotte-Gastonia-Salisbury (population 2.3 million), Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill (1.6 million), and Greensboro-Winston-Salem-High Point (1.5 million).
The Fayetteville metropolitan area (population just over 350,000) and the Wilmington metro area (just under 350,000) are the two most populous North Carolina cities covered in this book. Otherwise coastal North Carolina is quite sparsely populated compared to the middle of the state. New Bern, a large town for the area, has only about 120,000 people. The entire Outer Banks has a year-round population of less than 60,000.
Racial Makeup
Its legacy as the center of the U.S. slave trade and plantation culture means that South Carolina continues to have a large African-American population, nearly 30 percent of the total. The coastal percentage is generally higher, with Charleston being about 31 percent African American and Georgetown about 40 percent.
North Carolina’s African American population comes in around 21 percent, but again, the number is higher along the coast.
One unfortunate legacy of the Carolinas’ history is the residual existence, even to this day, of a certain amount of de facto segregation. Visitors are often shocked to see how some residential areas even today still break sharply on racial lines—as do schools, with most public schools in the area being majority black and most private schools overwhelmingly white.
The Hispanic population, as elsewhere in the U.S., is growing rapidly in the coastal Carolinas. But statistics can be misleading. Though Hispanics are growing at a triple-digit clip throughout the region, they still remain under 3 percent of South Carolina’s total population and about 7 percent of North Carolina’s, with most of the latter population not along the coast at all. Bilingual signage is becoming more common but is still quite rare.
RELIGION
The South Carolina Lowcountry, and Charleston in particular, is unusual in the Deep South for its wide variety of religious faiths. While South Carolina remains overwhelmingly Protestant—over 80 percent of all Christians in the state are members of some Protestant denomination, chief among them Southern Baptist and Methodist—the coast’s cosmopolitan, polyglot history has made it a real melting pot of faith.
Though the Lowcountry was originally dominated by the Episcopal Church (known as the Anglican Church in England), from early on they were also havens for those of other faiths. Various types of Protestant offshoots soon arrived, such as French Huguenots and Congregationalists. Owing to vestigial prejudice from the European realpolitik of the founding era, the Roman Catholic presence in South Carolina was late in arriving, but once it came it was there to stay, especially on the coast.
Most unusually of all for the deep South, Charleston had not only a large Jewish population, but one that was a key participant in the city from the very first days of settlement. Sephardic Jews of primarily Portuguese descent were among the first settlers. One of them, Judah Benjamin, spent a lot of time in the Carolinas and became the Confederacy’s secretary of state. Indeed, up to about 1830 South Carolina had the largest Jewish population of any state in the union.
The North Carolina coast also has an interesting religious history. While the Southern Baptist and Methodist churches are the top two Christian denominations in the state, the coast—as is the case in South Carolina—has quite a large Episcopal representation, a legacy of the original English colonization.
In and around the New Bern area there is a large concentration of Calvinist-affiliated churches, a legacy of the original Swiss and German settlers of this second-oldest city in North Carolina.
More recently, Roman Catholicism has been on the increase along the North Carolina coast, due to the influx of northeastern transplants as well as a growing Latino population. An exception exists in certain counties on the sparsely populated extreme
northeast coast, where there are no reported Catholic congregations at all.
MANNERS
The prevalence and importance of good manners is the main thing to keep in mind about the South. While it’s tempting for folks from more outwardly and assertive parts of the world to take this as a sign of weakness, that would be a major mistake. Bottom line: Good manners will take you a long way here.
Southerners use manners, courtesy, and chivalry as a system of social interaction with one goal above all: to maintain the established order during times of stress. A relic from a time of extreme class stratification, etiquette and chivalry are ways to make sure that the elites are never threatened—and on the other hand, that even those on the lowest rungs of society are afforded at least a basic amount of dignity.
But as a practical matter, it’s also true that Southerners of all classes, races, and backgrounds rely on the observation of manners as a way to sum up people quickly. To any Southerner, regardless of class or race, your use or neglect of basic manners and proper respect indicates how seriously they should take you—not in a socio-economic sense, but in the big picture overall.
The typical Southern sense of humor—equal parts irony, self-deprecation, and good-natured teasing—is part of the code. Southerners are loathe to criticize another individual directly, so often they’ll instead take the opportunity to make an ironic joke. Self-deprecating humor is also much more common in the South than in other areas of the country. Because of this, you’re also expected to be able to take a joke yourself without being too sensitive.
Etiquette
The most basic rules are that it’s rude here to inquire about personal finances, along with the usual no-go areas of religion and politics. Here are some other specific etiquette tips.
Basics: Be liberal with “please” and “thank you,” or conversely, “no, thank you” if you want to decline a request or offering.
Eye contact: With the exception of elderly African Americans, eye contact is not only accepted in the South, it’s encouraged. In fact, to avoid eye contact in the South means you’re likely a shady character with something to hide.
Handshake: Men should always shake hands with a very firm, confident grip and appropriate eye contact. It’s okay for women to offer a handshake in professional circles, but otherwise not required.
Chivalry: When men open doors for women here—and they will—it is not thought of as a patronizing gesture, but as a sign of respect. Accept graciously and walk through the door.
The elderly: Senior citizens—or really anyone obviously older than you—should be called “sir” or “ma’am.” Again, this is not a patronizing gesture in the South, but is considered a sign of respect. Also, in any situation where you’re dealing with someone in the service industry, addressing them as “sir” or “ma’am” regardless of their age will get you far.
Bodily contact: Interestingly, though public displays of affection by romantic couples are generally frowned upon here, Southerners are otherwise pretty touchy-feely once they get to know you. Full-on body hugs are rare, but Southerners who are well acquainted often say hello or goodbye with a small hug.
Driving: With the exception of the interstate perimeter highways around the larger cities, drivers in the South are generally less aggressive than in other regions. Cutting sharply in front of someone in traffic is taken as a personal offense. If you need to cut in front of someone, poke the nose of your car a little bit in that direction and wait for a car to slow down and wave you in front. Don’t forget to wave back as a thank-you! Similarly, using a car horn can also be taken as a personal affront, so use your horn sparingly, if at all. In rural areas, don’t be surprised to see the driver of an oncoming car offer a little wave. This is an old custom, sadly dying out. Just give a little wave back; they’re trying to be friendly.
THE GUN CULTURE
One of the most misunderstood aspects of the South is the value the region places on the personal possession of firearms. No doubt, the Second Amendment to the U.S. Constitution (“A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed”) is well known here and fiercely protected, at the governmental and at the grassroots level.
But while guns are indeed more casually accepted in everyday life in the South, the reason for this has less to do with personal safety than with the rural background of the region and its long history of hunting. If you’re traveling a back road and you see a pickup truck with a gun rack in the back containing one or more rifles or shotguns, this is not intended to be menacing or intimidating. Chances are the driver is a hunter, nothing more.
State laws do tend to be significantly more accommodating of gun owners here than in much of the rest of the country. It is legal to carry a concealed handgun in North and South Carolina with the proper permit, and you need no permit at all to possess a weapon for self-defense. However, there are regulations regarding how a handgun must be conveyed in automobiles.
Both North Carolina and South Carolina feature versions of the so-called “stand your ground” law, whereby if you’re in imminent lethal danger you do not have to first try to run away before resorting to deadly force to defend yourself. South Carolina’s goes one step further, however, in that their stand-your-ground law extends to lethal danger in public places as well as in the home or car.
swimming cautions on a North Carolina beach
Essentials
Transportation
AIR
CAR
TRAIN
BUS
BOAT
Recreation
STATE PARKS AND NATURAL AREAS
NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGES
ZOOS AND AQUARIUMS
BEACHES
KAYAKING AND CANOEING
FISHING AND BOATING
GOLF
Tips for Travelers
TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN
WOMEN TRAVELING ALONE
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELERS
SENIOR TRAVELERS
TRAVELING WITH PETS
Health and Safety
CRIME
AUTO ACCIDENTS
ILLEGAL DRUGS
ALCOHOL
ILLNESS
HAZARDS
Information and Services
TOURIST INFORMATION
MONEY
INTERNET ACCESS
PHONES
Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge.
Transportation
AIR
There are five international airports serving the coastal Carolinas.
Norfolk International Airport (airport code NIA, 2200 Norview Ave., Norfolk, Virginia, 757/857-3351, www.norfolkairport.com), served by American Airlines (www.aa.com), Continental Airlines (www.continental.com), Delta (www.delta.com), Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com), Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com), United Airlines (www.ual.com), and US Airways (www.usairways.com). Though in Virginia, this airport is close enough to the northern portion of North Carolina to make it a good choice for those wanting to concentrate on that area.
Wilmington International Airport (1740 Airport Blvd., 910/341-4125, airport code ILM, www.flyilm.com), served by Allegiant Air (www.allegiantair.com), Delta (www.delta.com), and US Airways (www.usairways.com). This is a good choice for those needing a central embarkation point on the Carolina coast.
Charleston International Airport (CHS, 5500 International Blvd., 843/767-1100, www.chs-airport.com) is served by AirTran (www.airtran.com), American (www.aa.com), Delta (www.delta.com), JetBlue Airways (www.jetblue.com), Porter Airlines (www.flyporter.com), Silver Airways (www.silverairways.com), Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com), United Airlines (www.ual.com), and US Airways (www.usairways.com). This is a primary gateway to the entire coast.
Myrtle Beach International Airport (MYR, 1100 Jetport Rd., 843/448-1589, www.flymyrtlebeach.com) is served by Allegiant (www.allegiantair.com), Delta (www.delta.com), Porter
Airlines (www.flyporter.com), Spirit (www.spiritair.com), United (www.ual.com), and US Airways (www.usairways.com). Because of the lack of interstate highway coverage in this area, the Myrtle Beach airport is best used only if Myrtle Beach is your primary destination.
Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport (SAV, 400 Airways Ave., 912/964-0514, www.savannahairport.com), off I-95 in Savannah, Georgia, is served by Allegiant (www.allegiantair.com), American (www.aa.com), Delta (www.delta.com), JetBlue Airways, (www.jetblue.com), Sun Country Airlines (www.suncountry.com), United (www.ual.com), and US Airways (www.airways.com). Although it is located in Georgia, because of its location near the extreme southern tip of South Carolina, this airport is perhaps the best access point to enjoy the lower portion of the South Carolina coast, and definitely Hilton Head.
CAR
The distance between the Great Dismal Swamp in North Carolina to Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, is about 500 miles, roughly 10-12 hours of drive time. Due to the spread-out nature of the coastal Carolinas and the general lack of public transportation, auto travel is integral to enjoying the region.
While the road infrastructure in the Outer and Inner Banks regions of North Carolina is in pretty good shape, driving from one place to another always takes longer than it looks on a map because there are so many waterways to cross and so few direct routes anywhere. Always budget more time than you think you’ll need for auto travel in this area.
The main interstate arteries into and through the region are the north-south I-95 and the east-west I-26 and I-40. The bulk of your travel, however, will not be on interstate highways, but rather various state highways, most of which are quite well maintained and which I do recommend using, for the most part.