by Jim Morekis
Keep in mind that despite being very heavily traveled, the Myrtle Beach area is not served by any interstate. A common landmark road throughout the coastal region is U.S. 17, which used to be known as the Coastal Highway and currently goes by a number of local incarnations as it winds its way along the coast.
Unfortunately, the stories you’ve heard about speed traps in small towns in the South are often correct. Always strictly obey the speed limit, and if you’re pulled over always deal with the police respectfully and truthfully, whether or not you agree with their judgment.
Car Rentals
Unless you’re going to hunker down in one city, you will need auto transportation to enjoy the coastal Carolinas. Renting a car is easy and fairly inexpensive as long as you play by the rules, which are simple. You need either a valid U.S. driver’s license from any state or a valid International Driving License from your home country, and you must be at least 25 years old.
If you do not either purchase insurance coverage from the rental company or already have insurance coverage through the credit card you rent the car with, you will be 100 percent responsible for any damage caused to the car during your rental period. While purchasing insurance at the time of rental is by no means mandatory, it might be worth the extra expense just to have that peace of mind.
Key rental car companies include Hertz (www.hertz.com), Avis (www.avis.com), Thrifty (www.thrifty.com), Enterprise (www.enterprise.com), and Budget (www.budget.com). Some rental car locations are in cities proper, but the vast majority of outlets are in airports, so plan accordingly. The airport locations have the bonus of generally holding longer hours than their in-town counterparts.
TRAIN
Passenger rail service in the car-dominated United States is far behind other developed nations, both in quantity and quality. For the most part, the national rail system, Amtrak (www.amtrak.com), runs well inland from the areas covered by this book. Exceptions include Amtrak stations in Charleston and Yemassee in South Carolina and Fayetteville, Wilson, and Rocky Mount in North Carolina. You could use this quasi-coastal route to access points of entry for the coast, but you would need other transportation to make it the rest of the way.
BUS
With the exception of the Outer Banks, the large bus service, Greyhound (www.greyhound.com), has decent coverage in coastal North Carolina, including stations in Elizabeth City, Fayetteville, Jacksonville, New Bern, and Wilmington. In coastal South Carolina, the bus company has stations in Beaufort, Charleston, Georgetown, Myrtle Beach, and Walterboro. Due to the frequent stops and relatively leisurely pace, this is by far the slowest form of travel in the region—as well as somewhat rustic—and should only be considered as an extreme budget option.
BOAT
One of the coolest things about the coastal Carolinas is the prevalence of the Intracoastal Waterway, a combined manmade/natural sheltered seaway going from Miami to Maine. Many boaters enjoy touring the coast by simply meandering up or down the Intracoastal, putting in at marinas along the way.
Key cities and towns along the ICW in North Carolina are Wilmington, Swansboro, Southport, Morehead City, Hatteras, Elizabeth City, Calabash, Belhaven, and Beaufort.
Key cities and towns along the ICW in South Carolina are Beaufort, Charleston, Georgetown, Hilton Head, Murrells Inlet, Myrtle Beach, and Port Royal.
If you’ve got a boat, you might want to traverse the entire coast for yourself. An excellent online resource is www.cruisingtheicw.com, which includes comprehensive marina and docking information. You can sleep onboard the whole time or occasionally tie up for the night and go into town for a stay at a nearby B&B.
For a hilarious and informative account of an oddball journey down the ICW in a restored English canal boat (or “narrow dog”), read Terry Darlington’s 2009 account, Narrow Dog to Indian River.
Recreation
STATE PARKS AND NATURAL AREAS
The Carolinas have two of the best state park systems in the United States, many built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during FDR’s New Deal and boasting distinctive, rustic, and well-made architecture.
While primitive camping is available, the general preference here is for more plush surroundings more conducive to a family vacation. Many state parks offer fully-equipped rental cabins with modern amenities that rival a hotel’s. Generally speaking, such facilities tend to sell out early in the calendar, so make reservations as soon as you can. Keep in mind that during the high season, March-November, there are minimum rental requirements.
Dogs are allowed in state parks, but they must be leashed at all times.
NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGES
Coastal North Carolina has the following U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service National Wildlife Refuges (NWR), from north to south:
• Mackay Island NWR (www.fws.gov/mackayisland)
• Currituck NWR (www.fws.gov/currituck)
• Pocosin Lakes NWR (www.fws.gov/pocosinlakes)
• Roanoke River NWR (www.fws.gov/roanokeriver)
• Alligator River NWR (www.fws.gov/alligatorriver)
• Pea Island NWR (www.fws.gov/peaisland)
• Mattamuskeet NWR (www.fws.gov/mattamuskeet)
• Swanquarter NWR (www.fws.gov/swanquarter)
• Cedar Island NWR (www.fws.gov/cedarisland)
Coastal South Carolina has the following National Wildlife Refuges, from north to south:
• Waccamaw NWR (www.fws.gov/waccamaw)
• Cape Romain NWR (www.fws.gov/caperomain)
• ACE Basin NWR (www.fws.gov/acebasin)
• Pinckney NWR (www.fws.gov/pinckneyisland)
• Savannah NWR (www.fws.gov/savannah)
Admission is generally free. Access is limited to daytime hours, from sunrise to sunset. Keep in mind that some hunting is allowed on some refuges.
ZOOS AND AQUARIUMS
There are plenty of opportunities for kids and nature-lovers to learn about and enjoy animals up close and personal in the coastal Carolinas. Chief among them are the North Carolina Aquariums (www.ncaquariums.com) on Roanoke Island near the Outer Banks, Pine Knoll Shores on the central coast, and Fort Fisher near Wilmington. The South Carolina Aquarium (www.scaquarium.org) is in downtown Charleston.
For a more land-oriented experience, there is Charles Towne Landing (www.charlestowne.org) in Charleston and Alligator Adventure (www.alligatoradventure.com) and T.I.G.E.R.S. (www.tigerfriends.com), both in Myrtle Beach.
BEACHES
Some of the best beaches in America are in the region covered in this book. While the upscale amenities aren’t always there and they aren’t very surfer-friendly, the area’s beaches are outstanding for anyone looking for a relaxing, scenic getaway.
By law, beaches in the United States are fully accessible to the public up to the high-tide mark during daylight hours, even if the beach fronts are private property and even if the only means of public access is by boat.
It is a misdemeanor to disturb the sea oats, those wispy, waving, wheat-like plants among the dunes. Their root system is vital to keeping the beach intact. Also never disturb a turtle nesting area, whether it is marked or not.
The North Carolina Outer Banks feature many miles of long, comparatively uncrowded beaches. For a more commercial experience, there’s Nags Head, but for something more wild, check out the National Seashores of Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout.
The Wilmington area features several fun, beautiful, and high-trafficked beach areas, especially Wrightsville Beach, Kure Beach, and Carolina Beach.
The busy Grand Strand, of course, has many miles of beach, from North Myrtle Beach on down to Huntington Beach State Park. Charleston-area beaches, generally less crowded, include Folly Beach, Sullivan’s Island, and Isle of Palms. Moving down the coast, some delightful beaches are at Edisto Island and Hunting Island, which both feature state parks with lodging.
Hilton Head Island has about 12 miles of beautiful, family-friendly beaches, and while most of the island is devoted to private gol
f resorts, the beaches remain accessible to the general public at four points with parking: Driessen Beach Park, Coligny Beach Park, Alder Lane Beach Access, and Burkes Beach Road.
KAYAKING AND CANOEING
In North Carolina, sea kayakers enjoy many areas in the Outer Banks, including Bald Head Island, Cape Hatteras, and Ocracoke Island. Just to the north is the Great Dismal Swamp, a haven for kayaking and canoeing.
Down the coast, hot spots include Albemarle Sound, Alligator River NWR, and the Cape Fear and Cashie Rivers.
In the Grand Strand of South Carolina, you can enjoy kayaking on the Waccamaw River and Winyah Bay. Some key kayaking and canoeing areas in the Charleston area are Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, Shem Creek, Isle of Palms, Charleston Harbor, and the Stono River.
Farther south in the Lowcountry are the Ashepoo, Combahee, and Edisto blackwater rivers, which combine to form the ACE Basin. Next is Port Royal Sound near Beaufort.
The Hilton Head/Bluffton area have good kayaking opportunities at Hilton Head’s Calibogue Creek and Bluffton’s May River.
FISHING AND BOATING
In the coastal Carolinas, because of the large number of islands and wide area of salt marsh, life on the water is largely inseparable from life on the land. Fishing and boating are very common pursuits, with species of fish including spotted sea trout, channel bass, flounder, grouper, mackerel, sailfish, whiting, shark, amberjack, and tarpon.
Freshwater anglers will find largemouth bass, bream, catfish, and crappie, among many more.
To fish legally in North Carolina, if you’re over 16 years old you’ll need to get a Coastal Recreational Fishing License. A 10-day nonresident license is $15. Go to www.ncwildlife.org for more information or to purchase a license online.
In South Carolina, if you’re over 16 years old, you’ll need to get a nonresident fishing license. A seven-day license is $11. Go to www.dnr.sc.gov for more information or to purchase a license online.
Fishing charters and marinas are ample throughout the region, for both inshore and offshore trips. Details for each destination are in their dedicated chapters.
GOLF
The first golf club in America was formed in Charleston, and South Carolina as a whole is one of the world’s golf meccas. There is a great variety of courses to choose from here, from tony courses like the Pete Dye-designed Ocean Course at the Kiawah Island Golf Resort or Harbour Town on Sea Pines Plantation in Hilton Head, to the more budget-conscious courses in the Santee Cooper region, Myrtle Beach, and North Myrtle Beach.
Don’t be shy about pursuing golf packages which combine lodging with links. South Carolina, especially the coastal area, is currently suffering from something of a glut in courses, and you can find some great deals online.
Tips for Travelers
TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN
The coastal Carolinas are extremely kid-friendly, with the possible exception of some B&Bs that are clearly not designed for younger children. If you have any doubts about this, feel free to inquire. Otherwise, there are no special precautions unique to this area.
WOMEN TRAVELING ALONE
Women should take the same precautions they would take anywhere else. Many women traveling to this region have to adjust to the prevalence of traditional chivalry. In the South, if a man opens a door for you, it’s considered a sign of respect, not condescension.
Another adjustment is the possible assumption that two or three women who go to a bar or tavern together might be there to invite male companionship. This misunderstanding can happen anywhere, but in some parts of the South it might be slightly more prevalent.
While small towns in the Carolinas are generally very friendly and law-abiding, some are more economically depressed than others and hence prone to higher crime. Always take common-sense precautions, no matter how bucolic the setting may be.
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
While the vast majority of attractions and accommodations make every effort to comply with federal law regarding those with disabilities, as they’re obliged to do, the very historic nature of this region means that some structures simply cannot be retrofitted for maximum accessibility. This is something you’ll need to find out on a case-by-case basis, so call ahead. The sites administered by the National Park Service in this book are as wheelchair-accessible as possible.
GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELERS
North Carolina is one of the more progressive Southern states, and gay and lesbian travelers will generally feel quite comfortable there. Because of its large college-age population and heavy arts component, Wilmington is particularly gay-friendly.
While South Carolina is typically more conservative in outlook, Charleston, in particular, is quite accepting, and generally speaking, gay and lesbian travelers shouldn’t expect anything untoward to happen.
In small towns all over the Carolinas, the best approach is to simply observe dominant Southern mores for anyone here, gay or straight. In a nutshell, that means keep public displays of affection and politics to a minimum. Southerners in general have a low opinion of anyone who flagrantly espouses a viewpoint too obviously or loudly.
SENIOR TRAVELERS
Both because of the large proportion of retirees in the region and because of the South’s traditional respect for the elderly, the area is quite friendly to senior citizens. Many accommodations and attractions offer a senior discount, which can add up over the course of a trip. Always inquire before making a reservation, however, as check-in time is sometimes too late.
TRAVELING WITH PETS
While the United States is very pet-friendly, that friendliness rarely extends to restaurants and other indoor locations. More and more accommodations are allowing pet owners to bring pets, often for an added fee, but please inquire before you arrive. In any case, keep your dog on a leash at all times. Some beaches in the area permit dog-walking at certain times of the year, but as a general rule keep dogs off beaches unless you see signage saying otherwise.
Health and Safety
CRIME
While crime rates are indeed above national averages in much of the Carolinas, especially in inner city areas, incidents of crime in the more heavily trafficked tourist areas are no more common than anywhere else. In fact, these areas might be safer because of the amount of foot traffic and police attention.
By far the most common crime against visitors here is simple theft, primarily from cars. (Pickpocketing, thankfully, is quite rare in the United States). Always lock your car doors. Conversely, only leave them unlocked if you’re absolutely comfortable living without whatever’s inside at the time. As a general rule, I try to lock valuables—such as CDs, a recent purchase, or my wife’s purse—in the trunk. (Just make sure the “valet” button, allowing the trunk to be opened from the driver’s area, is disabled.)
Should someone corner you and demand your wallet or purse, just give it to them. Unfortunately, the old advice to scream as loud as you can is no longer the deterrent it once was, and in fact may hasten aggressive action by the robber.
If you are the victim of a crime, always call the police. Law enforcement wants more information, not less, and the worst thing that can happen is you’ll have an incident report in case you need to make an insurance claim for lost or stolen property.
Remember that in the United States as elsewhere, no good can come from a heated argument with a police officer. The place to prove a police officer wrong is in a court of law, perhaps with an attorney by your side, not at the scene.
For emergencies, always call 911.
AUTO ACCIDENTS
If you’re in an auto accident, you’re bound by law to wait for police to respond. Failure to do so can result in a “leaving the scene of an accident” charge, or worse. In the old days, cars in accidents had to be left exactly where they came to rest until police gave permission to move or tow them. However, many U.S. states have recently loosened regulations so that if a car is blocking traffic as a result of an accident, the driver is allowed
to move it enough to allow traffic to flow again. That is, if the car can be moved safely. If not, you’re not required to move it out of the way.
Since it’s illegal to drive without auto insurance, I’ll assume you have some. And because you’re insured, the best course of action in a minor accident, where injuries are unlikely, is to patiently wait for the police and give them your side of the story. In my experience, police react negatively to people who are too quick to start making accusations against other people. After that, let the insurance companies deal with it. That’s what they’re there for.
If you suspect any injuries, call 911 immediately.
ILLEGAL DRUGS
Marijuana, heroin, methamphetamine, and cocaine and all its derivatives are illegal in the United States with only a very few, select exceptions, none of which apply to the areas covered by this book. The use of ecstasy and similar mood-elevators is also illegal. The penalties for illegal drug possession and use in the Carolinas are extremely severe. Just stay away from them entirely.
ALCOHOL
The drinking age in the United States is 21. Most restaurants that serve alcoholic beverages allow those under 21 inside. Generally speaking, if only those over 21 are allowed inside, you will be greeted at the door by someone asking to see identification. These people are often poorly trained and anything other than a state driver’s license may confuse them, so be forewarned.