Book Read Free

The Knockoff Economy

Page 32

by Kal Raustiala


  Cookbooks, 67

  Cooper, James Fenimore, 60

  Copying

  advertising through, 199, 201

  as brand advertisement, 199, 201

  cocktails, 91-95, 181

  competition and, 5-6, 168-70

  Congressional changes in protections against, 35

  creativity affected by, 7-8, 17, 45, 49, 167-68, 173, 211

  culinary. See Culinary copying

  databases, 162-66

  difficulties in, 180

  digital, 84-85, 182

  fads created through, 175

  fashion. See Fashion copying

  fonts, 147-52

  future of, 8

  of ideas, 108

  importance of rules on, 17, 202

  induced obsolescence caused by, 43-47, 49

  innovation affected by, 6, 15-16, 90, 166, 192, 207

  joke. See Joke copying legal regulation of, 6

  moral issues associated with, 6

  perfect, 84

  premise of laws against, 167

  prevalence of, 232

  profiting from, 172

  social norms effect on, 177-79. See also Social norms

  trends and, 174-75

  Copyright(s)

  architectural drawings, 65

  computer database industry, 14-15

  Constitutional protection of, 5

  holders of, difficulties in finding, 144

  infringement of, 108

  media protected by, 6

  notice of, 145

  purpose of, 10, 89, 195, 203

  term of, 144

  Copyright Act of 1909, 140

  Copyright law

  Congressional changes in, 35

  creative ideas and, 103, 105

  cuisine copying and, 64, 81

  database protections under, 165

  duration of protection under, 7

  fashion designs not protected by, 5, 20-21, 30

  fonts and, 147-49

  importance of, 168

  magic tricks and, 120

  original expression protected by, 103, 105

  property rights added to, 35

  purpose of, 4, 191

  sheet music protection under, 67, 139

  Statute of Anne, 145

  subconscious appropriation, 111

  substantial similarity, 83

  tweaking and, 143-45

  useful articles, 27

  Corinna, Anna, 19-21, 38, 45

  Cosby, Bill, 106

  Council of Fashion Designers of America, 35

  Counterfeiting, 199-200

  Cover bands, 183

  Cover songs, 139, 141

  Creation

  costs of, 210-11

  distribution costs’ effect on, 209

  motivators of, 203

  Creativity

  of chefs, 78-90

  complexity associated with, 202

  copying effects on, 4, 7-8, 17, 45, 49, 167-68, 173, 211

  copyright effects on, 10

  costs associated with, 171, 203, 208-210

  culinary copying effects on, 89

  distribution and, 171

  in financial services industry, 156-57

  of font design, 150

  in food culture, 10

  historical examples of, 167

  improvements on, 15

  open source and, 190

  in pharmaceutical industry, 171

  of recipes, 66

  social norms about, 115

  technological influences on, 210

  tweaking as form of, 142

  Creators

  advertising effect on, 200-201

  chefs as, 86-87

  monopoly over creations of, 6

  rival, 177

  Credit Suisse, 160

  Crif Dogs, 91

  Cronkite, Walter, 102

  Crowd-sourcing, 208

  Cuisine. See also Chef(s); Food

  as art form, 190

  attribution of, 79-80, 87, 178-79

  creativity of, 61

  experience associated with eating of, 85-86, 180

  fads in, 175-76

  foreign, 62

  innovation in, 9-10, 62

  local, 60

  modernist movement in, 62-63

  remaking of, 74

  in United States, 60-61

  Culinary copying. See also Chef(s); Food

  advertisement benefits of, 86

  benefits of, 90

  “built food,” 59, 64, 67-68

  case law, 65-66

  chefs’ views on, 88

  communication of, 82

  copyright law and, 64, 81

  creativity and, 89

  debate about, 72-78

  detection of, 83

  difficulties associated with, 180

  enforcing legal protections against, difficulties in, 81

  examples of, 57-58, 63-64, 72-77

  in France, 79-80

  global issues, 82

  innovation and, 90

  Internet effects on, 68-69

  limits on, 69-72

  molten chocolate cake as example of, 63-64

  perfect copying, 84

  prevalence of, 68

  self-policing of, 78

  social norms and, 78-83

  technology effects on detection of, 83

  “trade dress” protections, 69-70, 198

  trade secrets protection, 71, 79

  “unfair competition” protections, 70-71

  Culinary industry. See also Restaurant industry

  annual sales in, 58

  creativity in, 63

  fads in, 175-76

  history of, 59-63

  innovation in, 62, 88, 90, 189

  open-source elements in, 189-90

  restaurant reviews, 62

  staging in, 73, 75, 190

  “trade dress” disputes in, 70

  trademarks in, 69

  Daily Show, 102

  Dark’n Stormy, 93

  Databases

  contract law applications to users of, 165

  copying of, 162-66

  copyright protections for, 14-15, 165

  copyrightable content in, 162

  definition of, 162

  in Europe, 15, 162-66

  examples of, 162, 164

  facts-based, 162-63

  fee-based, 193

  Feist Publications v. Rural Telephone Service case law, 162-63, 165

  first-mover advantage of, 193-94

  growth of, 163

  legal, 162, 193-94

  tweaking of, 165-66

  U.S. Supreme Court case law, 126

  Dave Mathews Band, 225

  Davis, Darrel “Mouse,” 133-34, 189

  Death & Co., 92

  Debreq, Jean Francois, 24

  Delahunt, Bill, 35

  Derivative works, 36, 45, 143

  Design patents for fashion designs, 28

  Design Piracy Prohibition Act, 35

  Deutsche Bank, 160

  Devil Wears Prada, The, 47

  Diffusion lines, 54-55

  Digital copies, 84-85, 182

  Diller, Phyllis, 100

  Discover Dannone—50 Fabulous Recipes with Yogurt, 65-66

  Distribution

  changes in, 208-9

  creativity and, 171

  films, 230

  Doors, The, 141

  Dow Jones, 164

  Drinks. See Cocktails

  Drive, 185

  Dubner, Stephen J., 145

  Dun & Bradstreet, 164

  Dylan, Bob, 141

  Eataly, 64

  eBay, 165

  Economic growth

  of financial services industry, 155-56

  innovation’s role in, 15

  Edible paper, 71-72

  Edison, Thomas, 15, 132, 167

  Ed’s Lobster Bar, 57-58, 69, 201

  eGullet Society, 73-74, 76, 82-83

  El Bulli, 62, 190

  Elbaz, Alber, 3
8 Elle, 25

  Ellickson, Robert, 78

  Emcee, 99

  Encarta, 185

  Encyclopedias, 185

  Escoffier, Auguste, 59

  Europe

  databases in, 15, 162-66

  fashion copying in, 30-31, 39

  Exchange-traded funds, 159

  Experience/experiential nature

  of movie watching, 231

  music as, 222-23

  of restaurants, 85-86, 180

  of theaters, 181-82

  Facebook, 194-95, 227

  Fads, 174-75

  Fan fiction, 143

  Fanning, Shawn, 216

  Fashion brands

  counterfeiting effects on, 199

  diffusion lines’ effect on, 55

  dilution of, 54-55

  tarnishing of, 55

  trademark protection for, 29

  types of, 24-25

  Fashion copying

  acceptance of, 38

  copyright law and, 20-21, 27-30

  creativity effects of, 45, 49, 173

  description of, 173

  of design features, 37, 45

  differing views on, 34

  diffusion of fashion styles caused by, 43

  economic studies of, 45-47

  efforts to amend American law to prevent, 34-35

  in Europe, 30-31, 39

  examples of, 1-2, 19-20

  by famed designers, 37

  fashion cycle affected by, 44, 55

  fast, 53

  historical attempts to restrain, 30-34

  as homage, 37

  industry effects of, 5, 21, 27-30

  job losses caused by, 35

  lag time in, 54

  lawsuits for, 38-39

  norms against, 50-52

  piracy paradox of, 44, 49, 174, 193

  prestige associated with, 37

  product improvement benefits of, 43-44

  roles of, 44, 49

  scope of, 37

  social norms and, 51-52

  speed of, 52-53, 193

  status and, 39

  timing of, 37

  trends created by, 48-49, 54

  useful articles concept, 27

  Fashion cycle

  copying effects on, 43-44, 55, 174

  description of, 39-42, 173

  Fashion designers

  brand protection by, 54

  copying by, 37, 50-51

  lead time for, 192-93

  self-knockoffs created by, 54-55

  Fashion designs

  copying of select features of, 37, 45

  copyright law and, 5, 20-21, 30

  design patents for, 28

  exclusivity of, 41

  expressive element of, 28

  functional use issues associated with, 27

  induced obsolescence of, 43-47, 49, 173

  jewelry appliqué added to, 28

  positional nature of, 40

  rapid diffusion of, 42-43

  sketches of, 27

  status associated with, 39-40

  trademark law and, 29

  Fashion industry

  anchoring in, 47-49, 174

  annual sales in, 22

  brand names in, 24-25, 199

  competition in, 24

  copying in, 5, 21, 27-30

  creativity in, 5, 45

  diversification of, 23-24

  fast fashion, 25-26

  first-mover advantage in, 52-54, 192-93

  globalization of, 24

  history of, 22-27, 239n6

  intellectual property in, 29

  in Italy, 24

  in London, 23

  media coverage of, 26, 48

  modern conception of, 25

  Parisian influences on, 22

  piracy effects on, 44

  social norms in, 49-52

  in 21st century, 26

  status in, 39

  “trade dress” protections, 29-30, 198

  trends in, 40-41, 47-49, 54, 155, 174

  in United States, 23-24

  as winer-take-most market, 207

  Fashion knockoffs

  derivative works versus, 36

  description of, 192

  diffusion lines, 54-55

  economic studies of, 45-47

  media coverage of, 20, 36

  prevalence of, 36

  quality of, 240n20

  self-knockoffs, 54-55

  Fashion magazines, 48

  Fashion Originators’ Guild of America, 30-34, 241n32

  Fashion Originators’ Guild of America v. FTC, 33

  Fashion styles, 41-42

  Fashion trademarks

  importance of, 29

  protection of, 5, 29

  Fast fashion, 25-26

  Fast-food restaurants, 61

  Fat Duck, 190

  “Fat-washing,” 93

  Fauchart, Emanuelle, 78-80, 84, 86, 115

  Faviana, 1-2, 20

  Fear Factor, 97

  Feist Publications v. Rural Telephone Service, 162-63, 165

  Fidelity, 125

  File-hosting sites, 218

  Filene’s Basement, 32-33, 241n33

  Filesharing, 213, 216, 229, 255n4

  Film distribution, 230

  Financial services industry

  asset securitization, 159

  bank market share, 160-61

  copying in, 125-26

  creativity in, 156-57

  exchange-traded funds, 159

  growth of, 155-56

  index funds, 124-25, 159

  innovations in, 155-61

  junk bonds, 159

  mutual funds, 123-25

  nondisclosure agreements in, 160

  over-the-counter derivatives, 159-60

  patents in, 157-60

  profits in, 156

  research and development spending in, 158

  societal benefits of, 156

  trade secrecy in, 157-58

  First-mover advantage

  copyright and, 195

  in databases, 193-94

  definition of, 191

  description of, 173, 191-95

  in fashion industry, 52-54, 192-93

  in football industry, 132, 192

  patents and, 195

  in software, 194

  Flay, Bobby, 84

  Foley + Corinna, 19-20, 37, 45

  Foley, Dana, 19-21, 38, 45

  Font(s)

  Arial, 147

  bundling of, with software, 153

  calligraphic, 146, 250n13

  in computer code, 149-50

  copying of, 147-52

  copyright law and, 147-49

  description of, 14, 126

  digitization of, 150-51

  distinctiveness of, 250n17

  “functional” classification of, 148

  Georgia, 148

  graphic designers use of, 153

  Helvetica, 146-47, 154

  history of, 146, 149

  messages conveyed through, 146

  patent protection for, 149

  printing technology effects on, 152-53

  steampunk-inspired, 155-55

  technological advances that affected, 149-53

  Times New Roman, 147-48, 152

  trademark law and, 149, 250n17

  trends in, 154-55

  Font design

  amateurs involved in, 151-52

  creativity of, 150

  fads in, 175

  growth of, 150

  innovation in, 150-53

  trends in, 154-55

  tweaking in, 151

  Font designers, 151

  Food. See also Chef(s); Recipes

  aesthetic appeal of, 245n25

  American law’s view of, 67-68

  “built,” 59, 64, 67-68

  clothing and, similarities between, 68

  cocktails and, similarities between, 93-94

  creativity of, 61

  experience associated with eating of, 85-86, 180


  as functional item, 67-68

  innovation associated with, 179-80

  reproduction of, 59

  transitory duration of, 244n16

  “useful articles doctrine” application to, 68

  variations in, 84

  Food & Wine, 81

  Food culture, 10

  Food editors, 62

  Food Network, 59, 87

  Food recipe, 64-65

  Food trucks, 9

  Football

  Ault’s contributions to, 135-36

  barriers to copying in, 131-32

  college, 126-27

  copying in, 131-32, 139

  first-mover advantage in, 132, 192

  formations in, 130, 133, 192

  history of, 126-27

  “I-bone” offensive formation in, 128, 130

  innovations in, 12-14, 127-31

  “No Huddle Offense” in, 13, 129-30

  passing in, 13, 127

  patent protections in, 131

  pioneers in, 132-36, 189

  “pistol” formation in, 135-36

  Rodriguez’s contributions to, 130, 134-35

  “run-and-shoot” offense in, 133-34

  Spread Offense in, 130, 134

  “spread-option” formation in, 135

  Theodore Roosevelt’s changes to, 127

  tweakers in, 132-36, 138, 189

  Walsh’s contributions to, 128-29

  West Coast Offense in, 128-29

  wishbone formation in, 133

  Zone Blitz in, 129

  Ford, Tom, 26-27, 38

  Foreign cuisine, 62

  Forever 21, 20-21, 25-26, 37-38, 45, 192

  Fragmentation of audiences, 225

  France

  cuisine in, 60, 78-80

  fashion in, 23, 31, 35, 39

  Freakonomics, 145, 231

  Freakonomics: A Rogue Economist Explores the Hidden Side of Everything, 145

  Fred Segal, 42

  Free, 188

  Freeman, Eben, 92-93

  French Chef, The, 60

  French Laundry, 77, 85, 190

  Friend, Tad, 42

  Friendster, 195

  Frugal Gourmet, 65

  Fry, Blake, 151

  Furthurnet, 226

  Galifianakis, Zach, 101

  Galliano, John, 51

  Georgia font, 148

  GFT, 25

  Ghesquiere, Nicholas, 37, 50-51

  Gilhart, Julie, 51

  Gladwell, Malcolm, 142, 249n10

  Glamour, 48

  “Gloria,” 141

  Gold, Jonathan, 92

  Goldin, Horace, 120

  Goldman, William, 51

  Goldman Sachs, 160

  Gone With The Wind, 74, 144

  Google, 188-89

  Google +, 194

  Google Books, 144

  Gosline, Renee, 199-200

  Gosling’s Black Seal rum, 93

  Grand Central Oyster Bar, 58

  Grateful Dead, 225-26

  Grokster, 217-18

  Gruden, Jon, 129, 138

  Gucci, 5, 24

  Gulley, Ned, 137-38

  Gunzburg, Baron Nicolas de, 24

  Gutenberg, Johannes, 145-46

  Halford, Rob, 182

  Halston, 24, 55

  Hard Shake technique, 94

  Hathaway, Anne, 47

  Helvetica font, 146-47, 154

  Hendrix, Jimi, 141

  Henri Bendel department store, 34

  Hilton, Paris, 19-20

 

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