The Wine Savant: A Guide to the New Wine Culture
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pairing food with, 91, 92
“skunked,” 57
upmarket move of, 17
wine drinking vs. drinking of, 3–4, 12, 15, 17
Beerenauslese Wine, 133
beer snobs, 15
Bellow, Saul, 70
Billionaire’s Vinegar, The (Wallace), 10
Biodivin group, 74
biodynamicsisahoax.com, 73
biodynamic viticulture, 68–75, 76–77, 102, 138
certification of, 76–77
controversy and skepticism about, 69, 73–75
cosmic aspects of, 70–71
ideological and cultish aspects of, 69–71, 73–74
origins of, 69–71
quality of wines created in, 69, 74–75
schism in, 74
use of natural fertilizers and pesticides in, 71, 75
Blaufränkisch, 153, 159
Blaufränkisch grape, 8, 159
blood circulation, 19
blood clot prevention, 18
Bloomer Creek Winery, 135
Blot, Jacky, 137
Blue Nun Wine, 134
Blumenthal, Heston, 85
Bordeaux, 27, 32, 35, 58, 64, 114–16, 118, 123–24, 163
alcohol levels in, 33
blind tastings of, 123
classified-growth, 57
collecting of, 56
1855, 45, 123, 124
fake, 10
first growths of, 8, 123–24, 162, 168
loss of interest in, 110–11, 114, 118–19, 170
prices of, 54, 55, 141, 143
top-growth, 53
2005, 47–48
Bordeaux (Parker), 27
Bordeaux/Burgundy: A Vintage Rivalry (Pitte), 115
bottles:
Bring Your Own (BYO), 89–90
“corked,” 38, 56–57, 58–59
cost of, 4, 21–22, 26, 34, 44, 45, 48, 54, 87, 89, 99, 137, 140–50
empty, 24
evolution of wine in, 27, 30
“off,” 38–39, 163
sealants for, 56–59
temperature of, 44
variability of same wine among, 45
Bouchard Père et Fils, 122
Boulud, Daniel, 84
brandy, sugarcane, 169
Brazil wine market, 8
brettanomyces, 29
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 32
Brinkman, Jeff, 102
British Press Council, 29
Broadbent, Michael, 28–29
Brock University, 40
Brown, Tina, 29
Brun, Jean-Paul, 106, 154–55
Brunello di Montalcino, 35
Bruno Giacosa Winery, 55
Bual grape, 169
Budweiser Beer, 15, 17, 142
Burgundy, 8, 32, 33, 58, 62, 100, 101, 133, 162, 166
ascendant popularity of, 110–25
collecting of, 56, 119–20
complexity of, 112
fake, 10
Gallo Hearty, 22
grand cru, 48, 57, 83, 111, 115, 122–23, 126, 168
négociant, 122
premature oxidation in, 119–21
premier cru, 22, 57, 111, 115, 122–23
prices of, 54, 55, 141, 143
rare, 8, 141, 168
red, 30, 34, 35, 48, 67, 84, 103
2005, 47–48, 49
value, 122–23
villages, 111, 122
white, 34, 83, 92, 119–21, 129, 135
Cabernet Franc, 111
Cabernet Franc grape, 157, 160–61
Cabernet Sauvignon, 4, 28, 76, 113
California, 55, 64, 94, 97–99, 108, 109
French, 110–11, 113, 127
Merlot blended with, 111
Napa, 31, 32, 56, 66, 69, 99, 113, 141
Ridge Monte Bello, 55, 104
Stag’s Leap, 1973, 94
Washington State, 21
Cabernet Sauvignon grape, 8, 66, 110, 111, 152–53, 160
Calera Wine, 98, 109
California, 7–8, 63, 66–67
Anderson Valley, 102
Central Coast of, 84, 97, 98, 145–46
debate over formal classification for wines of, 103–6
history of viticulture in, 104
inexpensive wines of, 144
Mendocino County, 101
Napa Valley region of, 7, 8, 31, 32, 46, 66, 69, 95, 97–99, 113, 141, 147
reliable climate of, 95
Santa Cruz Mountains region of, 96, 97–98, 101–2, 168
Silicon Valley, 98, 100, 101
Sonoma Valley region of, 7, 31, 66, 96, 97, 98, 100, 101, 129, 147, 168
terroir movement in, 98–100, 107–8
vintages of the 1970s–1980s in, 95
vintages of the 1990s in, 95–96
wines of, 31–34, 46, 64, 94–109
California, University of, at Davis, 66
Calvinism, 21, 142
Camille Savès Champagne, 118
Canary Islands, 8
cancer, 19
Carignan, 6
Carmenere, 6–7
Carmenere grape, 6–7
Castilla y León, 156
Cava, 90
Cédric Bouchard Champagne, 118
Chablis, 49, 157
grand cru, 22
Chadderdon, Robert, 51
Chambolle-Musigny, 112
Champagne, 35, 116–18, 166
collecting of, 56
food combinations with, 90, 92
grapes blended in, 117
nonvintage, 90
Champagne flutes, 35
chaptalization, 77
Chardonnay, 28, 50, 69, 128–31
blanc de blancs, 128
buttery note in, 29, 130, 131
California, 31, 34, 84, 94, 97–98, 108, 109, 128–31, 157
Chateau Montelena, 1973, 94, 129
as a cocktail, 131
French, 96, 121, 128, 138
malolactic fermentation of, 29, 130
pairing food with, 131
Rhys Horseshoe Vineyard, 131
Sandhi Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, 131
Sonoma, 31
Yellow Tail, 22
Chardonnay grape, 8, 49, 66, 72, 97, 100, 111, 117, 127, 135, 136, 152, 159, 166
Charlie Trotter’s, 83
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 24, 32–33, 161
Chave, Jean-Louis, 145, 146
Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin, Domaine, 1991, 25
cheese, 18
Chenin Blanc, 135–38
Clos du Bourg, 137
French, 136–38
Le Haut-Lieu, 137
Le Mont, 137
South African, 136
Chenin Blanc grape, 72, 135–36, 159
Cheval Blanc, Château, 124, 160
1947, 25, 162–64, 167
Chianti, 33, 35
Chicago, Ill., 17, 85
Chidaine, François, 137
Chile:
earthquake of 2010 in, 6
Maule region of, 6
wines of, 6–7
China:
rise of, 9
wine market of, 8
cholesterol:
HDL, 18
LDL, 18–19
Cinsault, 6
climate change, 9, 33, 66, 96, 113, 133, 158, 165–66
Climens, Château, 144
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, 71–72
Clos du Bourg, 137
Closel, Domaine du, 138
Clos Naudin, Domaine du, 137
Clos Ouvert Winery, 6
Coche-Dury, Domaine J.-F., 25, 120, 125, 138
cocktail parties, 17
Columbia University, 72
Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine, The (Seldon), 14
Comtes de Vogüé, Domaine, 125
Comtes Lafon, Domaine des, 125, 145
Copain Wines, 100–101, 108, 131
corks, 56–59
natural, 57, 58
popping of, 58
syntheti
c, 58
tainted, 38, 56–57, 58–59, 120
corkscrews, 34, 35–36
Corsica, 158
Corton-Charlemagne, 88
Côte Chalonnaise, 122
Côte-Rôtie, 33
Côtes du Rhône, 56–57, 145
Coulée de Serrant Estate, 71–73, 75, 137–38
cow manure, 68, 69, 71
craft beer movement, 17
criminology, 74
culture, 17, 41
beer, 15, 17
high, 14
pop, 12–13
wine, 11, 27, 50
Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Sailland), 72
Cuvée de Silex, 137
CVNE, 55
Dan Kravitz/Hand Picked Selections, 51
Dashe Cellars, 108
decanters, 34
Declaration of Independence, 168
De Maison Selections, 52
Demeter International, 74
Democratic Party, 12
de Villaine, Aubert, 95, 145, 147
diacetyl, 29
dinner parties, 17
diseases:
chronic pulmonary, 19
gerontological, 19
Do Ferreiro Wine, 135
Domaine Select Wine Estates, 52
Dominus, 95–96, 108
Dom Pérignon, 140
Donkey and Goat, 108
Dönnhoff Wines, 134, 139
Draper, Paul, 78, 96, 145
Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, 135
Dr. Loosen Wine, 134
Drouhin, 122
Dujac, Domaine, 124
DuPont, 39
Edmunds, Steve, 66
Egly-Ouriet Champagne, 118
Eisele Vineyard, 98–99, 104
El Bulli, 85
environmentalism, 73
enzymes, 61
Epicurean Wines, 51
Epiré, Domaine d’, 138
Eric Solomon/European Cellars, 53
European Union, 156
Ewing-Mulligan, Mary, 14, 27
Executive Wine Seminars, 167
Failla Wines, 108
Falanghina grape, 153
Falernian, 159
Fat Duck, 85
Fiano grape, 153
Fields, W. C., 34
flavonoids, 18
flavor, 73
aftertaste of, 30–31
of alcohol, 39–40
from barrels, 61–65
chemistry of, 29, 38–41
concentration and complexity of, 22–23, 103, 133
crescendo of, 23
fruit, 5, 23–24, 30, 33, 99
length and finish of, 23, 103
manipulation of, 68, 75–78, 79
metaphors for, 6, 15, 16–17, 27, 28, 30, 63
nose and perception of, 41
oak, 61–66, 96, 99, 129–30
Old vs. New World, 33–34
perception vs. preference in, 41
receiving stimuli of, 41
spoiled, 38–40
see also taste
foie gras, 18
Fonseca, 56
food:
Asian, 91–93
beer and, 91, 92
Chinese, 92
eclectic menus of, 85–87
French paradox and, 18
Indian, 91–92
Japanese, 92
Korean, 92
pairing wine with, 4, 7, 67–68, 81–93, 131
spicy, 91–92
Thai, 92
Vietnamese, 923
food critics, 86
Foreau, Philippe, 137
Fouquet, Bernard, 137
Fourrier, Domaine, 124
Fox, Arthur L., 39
Fox Searchlight, 3
France, 26–27, 103
Alsace region of, 32, 49, 69, 132, 139
Anjou appellation in, 160
appellation system in, 103–6
Bandol, 161
Beaujolais region of, 77, 106, 154–55
Bordeaux region of, 7, 8, 27, 28, 45–48, 50, 63, 65, 79, 95, 100, 103, 104, 110–12, 114–19, 123–24, 129, 144, 160, 163–64
Bourgueil appellation in, 160
Burgundy region of, 8, 33, 45, 47–48, 49, 50, 64, 67, 69, 84, 95, 96, 100, 103–5, 107, 110–26, 128, 147, 164, 165
Chablis region of, 49
Champagne region of, 8, 52, 69, 116–18, 128, 164, 166
Chinon appellation in, 160
Côte d’Or, 121
Languedoc region of, 51
Loire Valley region of, 9, 32, 71–72, 92, 106, 107, 136, 137, 160, 165
Middle Ages in, 107
Montlouis appellation in, 137
national diet of, 18
Provence, 24
Rhône Valley region of, 46, 50, 65, 69, 100, 112, 145, 161, 164
Saumur-Champigny appellation in, 160
sommeliers in, 82–83
Vouvray appellation in, 136–37
wine consumption in U.S. vs. that in, 4
wine importers of, 51–52, 53
wines of, 4, 14, 24, 25, 32–33, 46, 47–50, 94–95, 170–73
Franco, Francisco, 155
François Raveneau Chablis Les Clos, Domaine (Burgundy), 138
French Paradox, 18
French Revolution, 121
Freud, Sigmund, 60–61
Friedrich, Jacqueline, 137
Fritz Haag Estate, 134
F.X. Pichler Winery, 139
Galivan Mountains, 98
Gallo Winery, 22, 146
Gallup poll, 4
garrigue, 24
Gatinois Champagne, 118
Geneva, 163
Georges Roumier, Domaine, 125
German Wine Law of 1971, 133
Germany, 70
Mosel Valley region of, 8, 135, 166
wine importers of, 52, 134
wines of, 56, 91, 92, 132–35, 139, 165–66
Gerry Dawes Selections—the Spanish Artisan Wine Group, 52
Geyserville Vineyard, 96
Giacomo Conterno Winery, 55
Giamatti, Paul, 3
Gironde River, 111
Giuseppe Mascarello, 55
Gladwell, Malcolm, 26
glass stoppers, 58
globalization, 5, 8, 9, 152–54
global warming, 133
Godello grape, 152, 156, 157, 159
Goode, Jamie, 40
grandes marques, 116–18
Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 22
grapes, 32, 74, 75, 81, 151–61
Aglianico, 8, 152, 153, 159–60
Albariño, 8, 135, 152, 156, 157, 159
Aligoté, 111
Arneis, 153
Assyrtiko, 158
Barbera, 160
Blaufränkisch, 8, 159
blending of, 117, 157, 169
Bual, 169
buying and selling of, 116, 117
Cabernet Franc, 157, 160–61
Cabernet Sauvignon, 8, 66, 110, 111, 152–53, 160
Carmenere, 6–7
Chardonnay, 8, 49, 66, 72, 97, 100, 111, 117, 127, 135, 136, 152, 159, 166
Chenin Blanc, 72, 135–36, 159
Falanghina, 153
fashionable, 99
fermented juice of, 10, 13, 32, 60, 65, 102, 130, 132–33
Fiano, 153
Godello, 152, 156, 157, 159
Grenache, 65
Grüner Veltliner, 8, 135
harvesting of, 68, 101, 133
Hondarrabi Zuri, 156
influence of vineyard reflected in, 23, 96
labeling by variety of, 49, 50
Lagrein, 8, 160
Malmsey, 169
malolactic fermentation of, 29, 130
Malvasia, 169
Mataró, 161
matching soil with, 104, 107
Mencia, 157–58
Merlot, 66, 111, 152–53, 160
Mourvèdre, 161
Nebbiolo, 63, 160
Negroamaro, 153
Nero d’Avola, 153
ob
scure, 8
País, 6
pest attacks on, 7, 153–55
Pinot Meunier, 117
Pinot Noir, 8, 67, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 110–11, 117, 121, 136, 166
polyphenols in, 18–20
Prädikat scale of, 133, 165
premium, 66
Rhône, 145
Ribolla Gialla, 152
Riesling, 8, 131–32, 134–35, 136, 150
ripening of, 102, 133, 164, 166
rotting of, 49
Sangiovese, 160
Sauvignon Blanc, 127–28, 135, 136, 152–53, 157
Sercial, 169
stemware specific to, 34, 35
sugar in, 65, 66, 133
Syrah, 8, 100, 152
Terrantez, 169
Treixadura, 151
Verdejo, 8, 156, 157
Vermentino, 158
volatile organic compounds in, 29
white, 111, 135, 158
Zinfandel, 65
Grapes of Spain, 53
Great Wine Swindle, The (Gluck), 14
Greece:
ancient, 82, 159
wines of, 9, 158
Grenache, 108, 127, 146
Grenache Blanc, 108
Grenache grape, 65
Grgich, Mike, 129
Grieco, Paul, 131
“grower Champagne” movement, 117–18
Grüner Veltliner, 35, 159
Grüner Veltliner grape, 8, 135
Guthrie, Wells, 100–101
Guy Roulot, Domaine, 125
Guy Roulot Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138
Haas, Robert, 51
Hamacher, Eric, 84
Hanzell Vineyards, 109, 129–30, 131
Harvey, Kevin, 100, 101–2
Haut-Brion, Château, 50, 94, 123, 124
1945, 124
1959, 25
1961, 25, 162
1989, 25, 90
Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 1974, 25, 162
Hemingway, Ernest, 54
Henri Billiot Champagne, 118
Henriot Champagne, 25
Henry, Patrick, 14
Hermann J. Wiemer Winery, 135
Hermitage, 25, 105, 145
Hollywood, Calif., 82
Home Vineyard, 102
Hondarrabi Zuri grape, 156
Hong Kong, 8
Horseshoe Vineyard, 131
How to Love Wine (Asimov), 14–15
Huet, Domaine, 136–37
hydrogen peroxide, 120
Indian wine market, 8
In Pursuit of Balance, 84
International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC), 168
Italy:
Alto-Adige region in, 160
Campania in, 159–60
Piedmont region of, 48, 55, 63, 85, 160, 166
wine importers of, 52
wines of, 4, 33, 35, 48, 49, 55, 90, 153, 159–60
Jacques Lassaigne Champagne, 118
Jacques Selosse Champagne, 118, 138
Jefferson, Thomas, 168
French food and wine favored by, 14
Jenny & François Selections, 51
Jensen, Josh, 96–98
J.-F. Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, Domaine, 138
1996, 25
J. J. Christoffel Wine, 134
J. J. Prüm Estate, 134, 139
Johnnes, Daniel, 83–84, 167–68
Joly, Nicolas, 71–73, 138
Jon-David Headrick Selections, 52