Death on the River of Doubt

by Samantha Seiple

  EPILOGUE

  Six Weeks Later

  May 26, 1914

  Washington, D.C.

  The tall arched windows were wide open, but it was still uncomfortably hot and stuffy in the Convention Hall’s auditorium, located on the corner of L and 5th Streets in Washington, D.C. The eagerly waiting audience, overdressed in fancy gowns and suits, quickly realized it was no use trying to fan themselves to cool off. Flushed and sweating, they were also resigned to the fact that there was no escaping an odor of meat and vegetables, which was wafting through the windows from the market stalls outside.

  Regardless, no one was going to give up his or her seat. Nearly five thousand people were packed into the auditorium to hear Theodore Roosevelt speak to the National Geographic Society about his trip down the River of Doubt.

  There was a lot that Roosevelt wanted to say publicly for the first time. He wasn’t going to focus on the zoological aspect of the trip. In fact, he wasn’t even going to mention that during his time in South America, 2,500 species of birds and nearly five hundred mammals were collected for the American Museum of Natural History. Some of the specimens were new to science, and it was considered one of the most important collections given to the New York City museum.

  Instead, Roosevelt wanted to talk about how the expedition had discovered and mapped a previously unknown river. Since the news was first reported, there were some geographers, including Sir Clements Markham, a British explorer and former president of the Royal Geographical Society, who had stirred up controversy by doubting Roosevelt’s story.

  “I feel somewhat incredulous as to Colonel Roosevelt having actually discovered a new river nearly one thousand miles long,” Markham said. He even dared to suggest that Roosevelt may have mistakenly gone down a different river that was already known and mapped.

  Roosevelt was both surprised and indignant. He knew the truth. The River of Doubt was an important discovery that changed the map of the world. And he could prove it, which is exactly what he planned to do tonight.

  But first he had to get there. Roosevelt, who was accompanied by Cherrie, was running late. The National Geographic Society had scheduled a formal dinner in his honor before the lecture. Dressed in a tailcoat and white bow tie, he ate heartily and spoke at length with Robert Peary, the Arctic explorer who was credited with being the first to reach the North Pole.

  Finally, at 8:30 p.m., Roosevelt arrived at the auditorium. At the first glimpse of him, everyone in the previously restless audience jumped out of their seats and clapped their hands, giving Roosevelt a thunderous standing ovation. Though everyone could see that the former president was noticeably thinner—he had lost fifty-five pounds on the expedition—they had no idea how momentous it was that Roosevelt was even alive.

  With his stomach pleasantly full, Theodore Roosevelt walked onto the stage. His infected leg was getting better. When he had first arrived home by ship one week ago, he’d needed a cane to lean on.

  The newspaper reporters who had greeted him as he walked off the ship were shocked at how thin and old he looked. They noted that his usually smiling face looked pained and pinched. But Roosevelt reassured them that he was feeling much better, especially since his recurring attacks of malaria had subsided, for now.

  “I am still worth several dead men,” Roosevelt jokingly told the reporters.

  Despite lingering feelings of fatigue from the aftereffects of the infection and malaria, Roosevelt walked confidently onto the stage. When he started to talk, the former president was his usual exuberant self, gesturing wildly with his hands.

  “I ask you to listen attentively to what I say we did,” said Roosevelt.

  Those in the back rows of the audience were having trouble hearing him, so they got out of their seats and rushed closer to the stage. Roosevelt looked over the map of South America that was set up as a visual aid.

  “It is almost impossible for me to show you what I did on these maps because they are so preposterously wrong,” he began.

  Roosevelt turned toward a blackboard where he had sketched a map. With a piece of chalk, he drew in the River of Doubt, and said:

  “I say ‘we put it on the map’ and I mean what I say. No map has ever yet shown the river … I can direct any man where to find this river … rivers stay put, so that the discovery we have made may be verified.”

  After Roosevelt clearly pointed to the exact location of the formerly unknown river, the audience listened in rapt attention to his stories of hardship and survival.

  When Roosevelt told the audience that Rondon was hunting for monkeys so they could eat them for dinner, their jaws dropped open in shock.

  “It will be perfectly safe to let me loose in the monkey house of any zoo in the world,” Roosevelt jokingly reassured them. “I have had enough to last me.”

  Roosevelt uses a map of South America during one of his presentations to show where the expedition traveled.

  Although Roosevelt would never know that the Cinta Larga had been debating whether or not to attack and kill them—and had unanimously agreed to let the men live—he did mention that he believed the Cinta Larga were hostile only because they were afraid.

  “But if a man shoots at you because he is afraid of you it is just as bad if he shoots at you because he hated you,” Roosevelt said.

  He also made a point in recognizing and praising Rondon and the work of his Telegraphic Commission. Roosevelt believed Rondon deserved worldwide recognition, just like the famous polar explorers Roald Amundsen and Robert Peary.

  “I feel very grateful to him, to the Brazilian government, and to my Brazilian associates for having given me the chance to take part in exploring the upper course of and putting on the map an unknown river,” Roosevelt said.

  The adventurer spoke for nearly two hours. At the end, he asked the audience if there were any questions. No one said a word. After a brief moment of awed silence, Roosevelt exclaimed:

  “I put a river on the map!”

  No one doubted it.

  * * *

  Two weeks later, Roosevelt traveled to Spain to attend Kermit’s wedding to Belle. He also made a stop in London to give a speech to the Royal Geographical Society—ending once and for all any doubt about the existence of the Rio Roosevelt.

  In 1917, three years later, the American Geographical Society awarded Roosevelt a gold medal for “scientific achievement in the field of geography in the Southern Hemisphere.” In his acceptance speech, he told them that the medal should really go to Rondon.

  The following year, the American Geographical Society awarded Rondon the same medal. In 1956, the Brazilian government also honored Rondon by changing the name of the territory Guaporé to Rondônia, which is now a state—through which the Rio Roosevelt runs.

  * * *

  Although Roosevelt had survived his trip through the Amazon jungle, he would never fully recover his health. He continued to have recurring attacks of malaria and painful abscesses in his leg.

  On January 6, 1919, nearly five years after his return from Brazil, Theodore Roosevelt died in his sleep. He was sixty years old. Many people believed that the hardships of the expedition had drastically shortened his life span.

  But the adventure-seeking former president never regretted his trip down the River of Doubt. In a letter to a friend, Roosevelt wrote:

  “I am an old man now, and I did have a murderous trip down South, but it was mighty interesting.”

  TEDDY’S TRAVEL TIPS*

  *Adapted from Through the Brazilian Wilderness by Theodore Roosevelt (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1914, pages 353–369).

  When to Go

  There is no perfect time to travel into the Amazon jungle. If the plan is to canoe down the River of Doubt, go when the river rises and flows continuously, which is during the rainy season (from approximately mid-December to mid-May). But expect to be uncomfortably damp and soggy most of the time.

  How to Get There

  Packtrains of mules and oxe
n are usually the mode of transportation used to reach the headwaters of the rivers in the Amazon. A sure-footed pack animal can carry cargo weighing from 160 to 180 pounds.

  What to Pack

  Survival tip #1: Do not overpack. A heavy load will slow you down. Each person should be limited to one waterproof duffel bag.

  CLOTHING

  * A sun helmet (to be worn in the open) and a slouch hat (to be worn in the forest).

  * A khaki-colored shirt will do, but an even better option is a khaki jacket with lots of handy pockets.

  * Long pants tend to bind at the knees while sitting in a canoe. A better option is a pair of loose-fitting knickerbockers (paired with long socks), or shorts.

  * Everyone has a differing opinion about socks, but thick wool socks will do a fine job.

  * Gloves (to protect your hands from biting insects).

  * Underwear. Always bring more than one spare pair of underwear (just in case).

  * Sturdy, hobnailed boots made with good leather are recommended, especially for avoiding snake bites. Also pack a pair of moccasins with rubber soles.

  * A durable rain poncho.

  BEDDING

  A hammock is the bed of choice in South America. Do not bring a camping cot. It will probably rust, and insects will crawl up its legs and make their way under the covers. A mosquito net is crucial if you want any shut-eye, and a light blanket will keep you comfortably warm, especially when you are wet and/or sick with fever and chills.

  EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS

  Survival tip #2: Along with a hunting rifle, always carry a small waterproof bag containing a compass, dry matches, salt, a fishing line, a hook, and a knife. These minimal supplies give you a fighting chance at survival if you find yourself lost and alone in the Amazon jungle.

  * Lightweight freight canoes (wooden dugouts are not recommended) that are nineteen feet long and can carry one ton of cargo with ease. Pack six paddles in each canoe.

  * Strong, high-quality pulleys and ropes to drag the canoes over long portages and guide them over dangerous waterfalls.

  * A lightweight waterproof tent that is long and wide enough for your hammock to swing back and forth between two trees.

  * A mess kit (all-in-one plate, pan, and utensils).

  * A machete to cut trails, and a rifle to hunt for food. A heavy rifle is not recommended for hunting jaguar and peccary, the only big game in Brazil.

  MEDICAL KIT

  Survival tip #3: Always take the necessary steps to avoid catching malaria. If you don’t have any quinine pills, do not take a trip to the Amazon jungle. Also, bring large quantities of bug repellent.

  Expect to get sick. Malaria, cholera, and dysentery are just a few possible ailments that will strike at any given time. Pack medicine accordingly.

  FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

  Survival tip #4: Since there is no guarantee that there will be nuts to gather, fish to fish, or animals to hunt, pack plenty of food rations to prevent starvation. This may seem like simple advice until you find yourself lugging a heavy load through the jungle. But remember: Never toss any food aside to lighten your load because when you’re down to your last cracker, you’ll wish you hadn’t.

  THEODORE ROOSEVELT—CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

  1882 First book published, entitled The Naval War of 1812. It became required reading at the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis. Roosevelt wrote forty-five books during his lifetime.

  1882–84 Elected to the New York State Assembly. Fights corruption in state government.

  1884–87 Rancher and deputy sheriff in the Badlands of the Dakota Territory.

  1889–95 U.S. Civil Service Commissioner in Washington, D.C. Fights corruption and reforms the hiring system for federal civil service workers to a merit-based system. Roosevelt is considered the father of today’s Federal Service.

  1895–97 President of the board of New York City Police Commissioners. Cleans up police corruption and lays the foundation for the New York City Police Academy, one of the first in the country.

  1897–98 Assistant secretary of the Navy. Orchestrated the beginning of the Spanish-American War.

  1898 Lieutenant Colonel of the Rough Riders. Leads heroic charge in the Battle of San Juan Hill in Cuba. (Awarded Medal of Honor, posthumously, in 2001.)

  1899–1900 Served as 33rd governor of New York. Improves working conditions for laborers. Preserves the Catskills.

  March–September 1901 25th vice president of the United States.

  September 14, 1901 Sworn in as president of the United States following the assassination of William McKinley.

  September 14, 1901–March 4, 1909 26th president of the United States.

  1902 Roosevelt the “trust-buster” fights corruption in the railroad, oil, and other industries with policies and reforms known as the Square Deal, meaning no crooked dealings. Under the Sherman Anti-Trust Act, he orders an antitrust suit to dissolve the Northern Securities Company, the first of more than forty antitrust suits against big business monopolies during his term.

  Settles Anthracite Coal Strike—first president to mediate a labor dispute. Working conditions and pay improve for coal miners.

  1903–1904 “Big Stick Diplomacy.” Treaty signed and construction of the Panama Canal begins (completed in 1914).

  Adds Roosevelt Corollary to the Monroe Doctrine, stating it is the responsibility of the United States to intervene with force in South America in the event of instability.

  1904 Roosevelt elected president of the United States for a second term—wins by a landslide. The election is noted for the largest popular majority vote ever recorded at the time.

  1905 Negotiates successful Treaty of Portsmouth, ending the Russo-Japanese War.

  Establishes National Forest Service.

  1906 First American awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his part in ending the Russo-Japanese War.

  Signs the Antiquities Act—the first U.S. law to protect a cultural and natural resource. The first eighteen monuments included the Grand Canyon (later a national park), Muir Woods, and Mount Olympus.

  Signs the Meat Inspection Act and the Pure Food and Drug Act, requiring the government to inspect and provide an honest statement of the ingredients on a label.

  1908 Establishes the National Commission for the Conservation of Natural Resources.

  1909 End of Roosevelt’s presidency. Theodore Roosevelt was one of the most popular presidents to ever hold office.

  SOURCES

  Aberdeen Herald. “Col. Roosevelt’s Story of His Last Great Adventure.” June 5, 1914.

  Boston Sunday Post. “Professor Cherrie, Naturalist of Roosevelt Expedition, Calls Wife Best Sportsman.” October 11, 1914.

  Bulletin of the Pan American Union. “Colonel Roosevelt in South America.” Vol. XXXVII, July–December 1913.

  Cherrie, George K. Dark Trails: Adventures of a Naturalist. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1930.

  . Diary. October 1913–May 1914.

  . “Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Meeting at The Explorers Club.” March 1, 1919.

  Diacon, Todd. Stringing Together a Nation: Cândido Mariano da Silva Rondon and the Construction of a Modern Brazil, 1909–1930. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2004.

  Di Silvestro, Roger. “Teddy Roosevelt’s Ride to Recovery.” Wild West, October 2009.

  Elliott, L. Elwyn. “The Rondon Mission.” The Pan-American Magazine, August 1917.

  Enciclopédia do Povos Indígenas no Brasil. “Cinta Larga.” http://pib.socioambiental.org/en/povo/cinta-larga.

  Harper, Frank. Diary. October 17, 1913–October 27, 1913.

  Lewis, William Draper. The Life of Theodore Roosevelt. Philadelphia: The John C. Winston Company, 1919.

  McCullough, David. Mornings on Horseback. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1981.

  Millard, Candice. The River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt’s Darkest Journey. New York: Anchor Books, 2005.

  Miller, Leo. In the Wilds of South America. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1918.


  New York Times. “6,000 Storm Hall to Hear Roosevelt.” December 11, 1914.

  . “Brazil Cordially Greets Roosevelt.” October 22, 1913.

  . “Career of Theodore Roosevelt Was Part of His Country’s History.” January 7, 1919.

  . “Col. Roosevelt’s Lecture.” May 27, 1914.

  . “Kermit Roosevelt Goes West.” September 2, 1908.

  . “Kermit Roosevelt, Hunter.” August 2, 1908.

  . “Kermit Roosevelt Weds in Madrid.” June 11, 1914.

  . “New Roosevelt Letter.” January 30, 1922.

  . “President’s Landau Struck by a Car.” September 4, 1902.

  . “President Submits to Slight Operation.” September 24, 1902.

  . “President Undergoes Another Operation.” September 29, 1902.

  . “River of Doubt to Be Placed on Map.” February 23, 1917.

  . “Roosevelt Kills More Game.” July 8, 1909.

  . “Roosevelt Made Angry by Doubters.” May 13, 1914.

  . “Roosevelt Now Homeward Bound.” May 1, 1914.

  . “Roosevelt Returns 35 Pounds Lighter.” May 20, 1914.

  . “Roosevelt Sticks to His Discovery.” May 14, 1914.

  . “Roosevelt, the Boy, as Seen by Sister.” February 16, 1920.

  . “Roosevelt Thought of Cuba When Shot.” February 15, 1913.

  The Ogden Standard-Examiner (Ogden, Utah). “Perilous Trip Is Described.” January 17, 1928.

  Omaha Daily Bee. “Colonel Put River on Map.” May 28, 1914.

  O’Reilly, Donald F. “Rondon: Biography of a Brazilian Republican Army Commander.” Ph.D. dissertation. New York University, 1969.

  Ornig, Joseph R. My Last Chance to Be a Boy: Theodore Roosevelt’s South American Expedition of 1913–1914. Baton Rouge, LA: Louisiana State University Press, 1994.

  Pringle, Henry F. and Katharine Pringle. “The House of the Happy President.” The Saturday Evening Post, June 13, 1953.

  Rondon, Cândido Mariano da Silva. Lectures delivered on the 5th, 6th, and 7th of October 1915 at the Phenix Theatre of Rio de Janeiro on The Roosevelt-Rondon Scientific Expedition and The Telegraph Line Commission, trans. R. G. Reidy and Ed. Murray. Rio de Janeiro: Typographia Leuzinger, 1916.