Burckhardt, Jakob, 396
Burns, Robert, 240
caffeine, 304
Campbell, Irene, 138
Campbell, Molly, 107–8
Campbell, Wentworth (Jock), 108–9, 111–13, 118–19, 121–2, 131, 382
denies paternity, 138–9
marriage to Betty Fisher, 122, 134, 138, 319–20
Carrel, Jean-Antoine, 71
Case, John Crowther, 59–60, 63–8, 70, 73–4, 97, 252
catalysts, 356–7
Charterhouse School, 179, 191, 306
Christy, Gerald, 305, 307–8, 324–6, 328
Churchill, Winston, 305
cigarettes, 39, 217, 260, 272–4
Collie, Professor Norman, 145, 166, 186–8, 199, 299–300, 312
Copernicus, Nicolaus, 27
Corsi, Alessandro, 63–4
Corsica, 50–3, 150, 176, 237, 342
Coubertin, Pierre de, 336–7
Courtauld, Stephen, 169
Crawford, Colin ‘Ferdie’, 193, 208–10, 216, 219–20, 223–7, 229, 243
climbs with Mallory, 289–9, 291–2, 302
Finch’s assessment of, 209–10
Croce-Spinelli, Joseph, 195
Crookes’ anti-glare glasses, 304
Cube, Dr Felix von, 51
Cutty Sark, 13
Czar, 13
Da Namgyal, 391
Daily News, 342
Dalai Lama, 143
Daphne Laureola, 137
Darwin, Charles, 82
Davis, Wade, 149
Dent, Clinton, 126
Dent d’Hérens, 169, 322–3
Dente Blanche, 40
Devil’s Chimney, 23
Doctors’ War, 116
Dossen Hut, 45–6
Doughty, JH, 312
Downey, William, 361
Doyle, Arthur Conan, 145
Dreyer, Professor Georges, 163–4, 166–7, 199–200, 231–2
Duncan, Isadora, 133
dysentery, 177, 235, 245, 299, 337–8
Eaton, Captain John, 146, 199, 312
Ebnefluh, 97
Edinburgh Botanical Gardens, 183
Edison, Thomas, 356
Eidgenössische Technische Hochschule (ETH), 37, 46, 56–7, 59, 83, 94, 104, 336, 354
Eiger, 31–2, 40, 96
Einstein, Albert, 354
electron diffraction, 362–3
Elizabeth II, Queen, 391
Eschwege, Rudolf von, 114–16
Evans, Charles, 390
Everest, Sir George, 125
Everest Committee, 145–52
accident inquiry, 298–301
and climbers’ costs, 189
confidentiality agreement, 189–90, 324–9
and Finch’s photographs, 230–1
and later expeditions, 387, 389
and lectures, 305–9, 324–9
and medical examinations, 158–62, 165–7
and personnel selection (1922), 186–8, 312
and personnel selection (1924), 314–18, 328–9, 344
replaced by Everest Foundation, 394
and use of oxygen, 199–202, 317–18
Everest expedition (1921), 124–30, 143–52, 157–68, 173–9, 183–4, 193
Everest expedition (1922)
accident and inquiry, 290–3, 298–301
acclimatisation, 236, 255
climbers’ nicknames, 239
climbing outfits, 202–3, 229–30
climbing strategies, 217, 250–2, 267, 269, 283–6, 298
diet, 246–7
establishes base camp, 242–4
Finch–Bruce ascent, 269–84
first sight of Everest, 236–7
Mallory’s ascents, 260–8, 284–93
official account, 308
oxygen equipment, 201–2, 209, 216–20, 225–6, 248, 250–1, 257–9
personnel, 191–3, 209–11
personnel selection, 170, 179, 185–8, 312
relations among climbers, 229–30, 239, 246–7
and Sangkar Ri climb, 234–6
summit attempts, 250–93
Everest expedition (1924), 337–44, 395
discovery of Mallory’s body, 343
diplomatic blunders, 359
last sighting of Mallory and
Irvine, 342
oxygen equipment, 333–5, 338, 343–4
Everest expeditions (1930s), 386–9
Everest expedition (1953), 385–6, 389–93
Everest Foundation, 394
Falmouth, Lord, 369, 374
Faraday, Michael, 82
Farrar, John, 128
Farrar, Percy, 90, 124–5, 169, 173, 188, 221, 249, 312–13
and Finch’s climbing attire, 203
and Finch’s diary, 212
and Finch’s letter to Hinks, 327
friendship with Finch, 128
and 1921 expedition, 127–30, 145, 147, 150, 157–8, 162, 165–6
resigns from Everest Committee, 315, 317
and use of artificial oxygen, 199–200, 231–2, 268
Faulkner, Ronald ‘Trader’, 381–2
Federation of Australia, 10
Ferranti, Vincent, 397
Ferranti International, 364
Fiechtl, Hans, 92
Field, The, 88, 91, 128, 148, 311
Fiescherhorn, 97
Finch, Agnes Isobel (‘Bubbles’), 155–7, 169–71, 193, 204
and climbing, 320–2, 342, 359
death, 404
and family life, 349, 352–3
financial problems, 218–19
and George’s diary, 212
and George’s photographs, 211–12, 231
and George’s professional affairs, 396
and George’s return, 302, 309, 319–20
letters to George, 248, 281–2
Finch, Alice Sydney, 10
Finch, Antoine, 119, 132
Finch, Antoine Konstant, 25–6
Finch, Betty, see Fisher, Betty
Finch, Betty (Edward’s daughter), 136–7
Finch, Bryan Robert, 154–5, 319–20
Finch, Charles (Peter’s son), 139, 380–1
Finch, Charles Edward, 7, 9–14, 16, 18, 21, 57, 104, 132, 349
and grandson Peter, 136–7, 139, 378, 381
returns to Australia, 24–6
Finch, Charles Wray, 7–9, 14, 16, 58
Finch, Dorothy, 11, 14, 25, 120, 132, 134–5, 378
Finch, Edward, 136–7
Finch, Edward (Max’s son), 172
Finch, Elizabeth, 8
Finch, Felice George (‘Colette’), 349–51
Finch, George
academic honours, 363–4, 373–4
and accident inquiry, 298–301
Alpine climbing, 28–33, 37–50, 60–1, 63–74, 90–9, 168–71, 312, 320–4, 360–2
appearance, 36, 47, 53–4
appointed MBE, 131
awarded gold medals, 57–8, 336–7
begins career in chemistry, 79–87
buried in avalanche, 96
ceases climbing, 358–62
climbing attire, 202–3, 229–30, 239
climbing in Corsica, 50–3, 150, 176, 237, 342
and climbing innovations, 92–3
climbs Mount Canobolas, 3–6
contracts malaria, 116–17, 387
criticism of English climbers, 88–90
death, 404
and deaths of Mallory and Irvine, 342–3
his diary, 212, 221–2, 226, 285, 297
diet, 246–7
dislike of nationalism, 399
divorce from Betty, 119–21, 131–2, 140
divorce from Gladys, 153–5, 189
early years, 10–15, 24–34
elected president of Alpine Club, 394–5
and expedition members (1922), 209–11, 213–15
eye injury, 110–11, 248
falls into crevasse, 95
and family endowment, 58, 85, 143, 171–2
fascination with snakes, 352
financial problems, 218–19, 330–1
Finch–Bruce summit attempt, 269–84
first sight of Everest, 236–7
First World War service, 103–16
friendship with Farrar, 128
handwritten memoir, 11, 14
heads Indian laboratory, 383–5, 395–7
honoured in Belgium, 363–4
and ice craft, 32, 49, 150–1
language skills, 15, 36–7
last public speech, 399–400
later scientific career, 345–8, 354–8, 362–4, 405
leadership instinct, 36, 62
learns to swim, 7, 10
leaves Everest and returns home, 290, 297–8, 302
lectures, 305–9, 324–9
letter to Kurtz, 104–6
love of music, 14–15, 37, 396, 398
and Mallory’s second summit attempt, 285, 287–9, 291
marriage with Agnes, 171, 189, 193, 204
marriage with Betty, 103–4, 107–8, 111–13
marriage with Gladys, 140–3
and medical examinations, 158–62, 165–7, 186
and newspaper coverage, 305
and 1921 expedition, 127–30, 147–52, 157–67
and 1924 expedition, 314–18, 328–9, 333–5
and 1930s expeditions, 387–8
and 1953 expedition, 385–6, 391–3
and Olympic medal, 336–7
personal hygiene, 301, 312
and photography, 97–9, 190, 211–12, 217–18, 221, 225–7, 230–1, 240, 308
political views, 396
publishes The Making of a Mountaineer, 333, 343, 359
publishes The Struggle for Everest, 360
relations with Mallory, 213, 227, 233–4, 236, 239, 246, 285–6, 330–3, 340, 352
relations with other climbers, 68, 73–5, 148, 150
relations with other climbers (1822), 229–30, 239, 246–7
relationship with Agnes, 155–7
relationship with brother, 55, 57, 99, 172–3, 278, 395
relationship with father, 14, 57
relationship with Gladys, 117–18, 140–3
relationship with mother, 14–15, 25–7, 33
reputation for meticulous planning, 39
rescues Bruce, 280, 284, 337, 344
rescues policeman, 35–6
retirement, 396
saves Jewish students, 364, 405
and Second World War, 365–75
selected for expedition (1922), 170, 185–9, 312–13
self-confidence, 47, 53, 313
and son Bryan, 154–5
and son Michael, 121–2
and son Peter, 117–21, 129, 131–6, 158, 377–82
starts drawing and sketching, 218
suffers dysentery, 235, 245, 299
sustains injuries, 282, 289
and use of artificial oxygen, 200–2, 204–8, 215, 226, 228–9, 247–8, 269–71, 303–4, 317–18
Finch, Gladys, see May, Gladys
Finch, Joyce Nanette (‘Bunty’), 319–21, 332, 349–51, 353, 376–7, 389, 396
Finch, Laura Isobel, 10, 14–21, 24–6, 30–4, 57, 349, 384
and climbing, 30–2, 34, 39
and grandson Peter, 119–21, 129, 132–6, 319, 382
settles in India, 134–5
Finch, Margaret, 155
Finch, Max, 3–4, 11–12, 22–4, 27
Alpine climbing, 28–33, 37–50, 60–1, 63–74, 94–9, 312, 360, 362
climbing in Corsica, 50–3, 150, 176, 237
and climbing innovations, 92–3
death, 173
and family endowment, 58, 172
and 1921 expedition, 127, 129
relationship with brother, 55, 57, 99, 172–3, 278, 395
Tödi climb, 55–7, 63
Finch, Paola Jean (‘Moseli’), 349–51, 353, 366
Finch, Peter, 111–12, 117–21, 129, 131–9, 158, 319, 377–82
childhood in Australia, 134–7
meeting with George Finch, 379–80
meeting with Jock Campbell, 138–9
reunion with mother, 137–8
Finch, Samantha, 139
Finch camera, 363
Finsteraarhorn, 40, 68
fire prevention, 365–8
Fischer, Dr Andreas, 48
Fisher, Alicia, 100–1
Fisher, Alicia Gladys (‘Betty’), 100–4, 107–8, 111, 113, 117–22, 129, 141, 321
divorce, 119–21, 131–2, 140
marriage to Jock Campbell, 122, 134, 138, 319–20
Peter Finch and, 378–80, 382
Fisher, Frederick, 100–1
flares, 371–2
Foel Grach, 334
Forster, Guy (Guy Smith-Barry), 91–4, 97, 108–9, 168–9, 252, 397
climbs Dent d’Hérens, 322–3
Francqui Foundation, 363
Franz Ferdinand, Archduke, 102
Freshfield, Douglas, 129, 221, 283
Furg Joch, 169–71
Fynn, Valère Alfred, 68–74, 97, 128
Gainsborough, Lord, 192
Galileo, 27
Gandhi, Indira, 385
Gandhi, Mahatma, 384
Geographical Journal, 199
Geological Survey of India, 148
George V, King, 131
Gibbon, Edward, 117
Glyndebourne Festival Opera, 396
Gnatong cemetery, 222
Goodfellow, Basil, 398
Great Dividing Range, 5, 8
Green, Gilbert WM, 114
Greenwich Mean Time, 14
Greenwich Point, 11, 18, 25, 137
Gregory, Alf, 391
Grindelwald Glacier, 31
Gundagai Independent, 305
Habeler, Peter, 197
Haber, Fritz, 79–82, 356, 368
Hall, Ben, 11
Hamel, Joseph, 194–5
Hannibal, 38
Hercules, 7
Heron, Alexander, 148, 178, 183, 209, 211
Hill, Leonard, 247
Hillary, Edmund, 391, 402
Hinks, Arthur, 146–51, 159–62, 165–6, 168, 173–4, 177, 179–80
and accident and inquiry, 298–300
and Finch–Bruce ascent, 282–3
and Finch’s climbing attire, 202–3
and Finch’s photography, 230–1
and lectures, 306, 308–9, 324–9
and Mallory’s loan to Finch, 330–1
and 1922 expedition, 185–6, 188–90, 214, 240, 313
and 1924 expedition, 344
and 1933 expedition, 386
and publication of The Struggle for Everest, 360
and selection of Irvine, 335
and summit attempts (1922), 267–8, 282–3, 285–6, 298
and use of artificial oxygen, 196, 199, 202, 205, 231–3, 249, 268, 283, 303, 340
Hitler, Adolf, 364
HMS Revenge, 13
Holmes, Sherlock, 145
Home Guard, 366
Horace, 27
Howard-Bury, Colonel Charles, 146, 167, 174–6, 178, 183, 185–8, 213, 239–41, 299, 308
Hughes, David, 374
Hunt, Colonel John, 385, 389–92
hydroponics, 352, 396
Illustrated London News, 189, 214
Imperial Chemical Industries, 364
Imperial College
Finch joins, 83–7
Finch’s retirement, 384
Finch’s scientific career, 345–8, 354–8, 362–4
and Indian scientists, 384
mountaineering club, 332, 360
Indian independence, 390
Ingle-Finch, Michael, 121–2, 134, 138, 319–20
Inverell, NSW, 25
Irvine, Andrew ‘Sandy’, 334–5, 337–8, 340–4, 387, 391
Jacks, Colonel M, 145, 199
J-bombs, 369–73, 397
Jelep La pass, 222–3
Johnston, Agnes Is
obel, see Finch, Agnes Isobel
Johnston, Archibald, 155
Johnston, Margaret, 155
Jossi, Christian, 31–2, 39, 43, 312
Jungfrau, 32, 40, 47–9, 360–2
Karlsruhe Institute of Technology, 79
Kellas, Dr Alexander, 147–8, 164, 174–7, 232
his grave, 224
Kangchenjhau expedition, 197, 222
and use of oxygen, 196–9, 201
Kepler, Johannes, 27
Kershaw, Robert, 361
Kew Gardens, 183
Konkordia Hut, 96
Konstant (painter), 25–6
Kurz, Marcel, 60, 104–6, 127, 129–30, 147, 399
Larkins, Dr FE, 159–60, 164, 186
Leadbetter, CW, 134
Leichhardt, Ludwig, 16
Leopold III, King of the Belgians, 364
light bulbs, 356
Limmat River, 35
Ling, Arthur, 160–2
Listener, The, 387
Lives of the Chief Justices of England, The, 13
Lloyd, Peter, 389
Lodge, Sir Oliver, 33
Longstaff, Dr Thomas, 191, 209, 216–18, 227, 241, 246, 297–9, 306
and climbers’ injuries, 282, 284–5, 289
letter to Spencer, 313–14
and use of artificial oxygen, 195–6, 200, 217, 229
Lorimer, Enid, 133, 136, 139, 379–80
Lowe, George, 391
Lunn, Sir Arnold, 399
McCardie, Mr Justice, 131
Majorca, 30
Mallory, George Leigh
accident and inquiry, 298–300
and approach to Everest, 216–17, 223, 225, 230, 245, 250–2, 255
athleticism, 233–4
discovery of his body, 343
and Finch–Bruce ascent, 284–5, 303
and Finch’s Alpine Club membership, 298
Finch’s assessment of, 210–11
and lectures, 179–80, 183–4, 306–8, 316
loan to Finch, 330–1
and medical examinations, 158–62, 166
and newspaper coverage, 302–3
nickname, 239
and 1921 expedition, 149–51, 157, 174–9, 188, 191
and 1924 expedition, 312, 314–18, 331, 337–44
and 1953 expedition, 391–2
opinion of Howard-Bury, 188
and photography, 226, 230
relations with Finch, 213, 227, 233–4, 236, 239, 246, 285–6, 330–3, 340, 352
and Sangkar Ri climb, 234–6, 239–40
summit attempts, 260–8, 284–93
sustains injuries, 282
takes leadership role, 177–8, 185
and use of artificial oxygen, 201, 207–8, 229, 232–3, 285, 287, 291, 303, 316, 337–8, 340
Mallory, Mary, 331
Mallory, Ruth, 175, 223, 229, 261, 268, 284, 302, 337
meets Finch, 331–2
Martini, Ernesto, 68–71
Massacre of Chumik Shenko, 146
Matterhorn, 23, 40, 49, 60, 68–74, 97, 141, 149, 169, 171, 234, 236, 323
The Brilliant Outsider Page 36