Agnes Finch climbs, 321–2
Mawson, Douglas, 305
May, Gladys, 117–18, 129, 153–8, 189, 319–21, 380
May, Maud, 117
May, Robert, 117
Meade, Charles, 145, 166, 199
Messner, Reinhold, 197
Meta, 163
Metaphysical Phenomena: Methods and Observations, 33
Mittelhorn, 46
Mönch, 32, 40
Mont Blanc, 60, 72, 91, 97–8, 141, 149, 169, 173, 178, 226
compared with Everest, 237, 253–4
Finch flies over, 384
Hamel expedition, 194–5
Montagnier, Henry, 124, 127, 129
Monte Cinto, 50
Monte Rosa, 60, 63–8, 72
moon, mass of, 149
Morning Post, 388
Morris, Captain John, 192–3, 208–10, 213–14, 216, 223, 227, 229, 239, 246, 306
Morshead, Henry, 191, 210–11, 213, 216, 229, 232, 236, 246, 306
and 1921 expedition, 148, 177–8, 183
and summit attempt, 250, 255, 263, 265–6, 270–2
sustains injuries, 282, 289
Mount Canobolas, 3–6, 10, 12, 29, 31, 62, 99, 238, 302, 400, 405
Mount Cho Oyu, 280
Mount Chomiomo, 177, 226
Mount Chomolhari, 226
Mount Everest, see Everest expeditions
Mount Kamet, 147–8, 164, 198, 201, 232
Mount Kangchenjhau, 177, 197, 222
Mount Pauhunri, 147, 177, 226
Mount Pilatus, 30
Mount Pumori, 280
Mount Trisul, 196, 201
‘mountain sickness’, 194–5
Mumm, Arnold, 195–6, 200
Mummery, Albert, 70, 145–6
Napoleon Bonaparte, 38
National Chemistry Laboratory of India, 383
National Secular Society, 19
navigation, 13–14
Nehru, Jawaharlal, 383–4, 396
Network, 382
New South Wales Land Board, 9, 21, 25
New York Times, 305, 307
Newton, Isaac, 14, 27, 82, 363
Nijinsky, Vaslav, 133
Nobel Prize committee, 358, 374
Noel Captain John, 126–7, 190, 192, 209, 216, 228, 236, 247, 306
Everest film, 324–5
and 1924 expedition, 341
and photography, 230–1, 240
and summit attempts, 270, 275, 281, 287
travels through Tibet, 146
North Pole, 126, 158, 163
Northern Champion, 305
Norton, Major Edward ‘Teddy’, 191, 210, 216–17, 246, 306, 312
and accident inquiry, 299–300
and 1924 expedition, 315, 337–41
and 1933 expedition, 386–7
summit attempt, 245, 250, 255, 260, 262–6, 270–1, 272, 282–3
Notre-Dame cathedral, 22–4, 31, 351
Nubrygyn Run, 8–11, 20
Obexer, Franzl, 63, 65–8, 70, 73
observation balloons, 114–16, 397
Odell, Noel, 315, 334, 337–8, 341–2
Oliver, Edmund, 169
Olivier, Sir Laurence, 378
Olympic Games, 336–7
Orange, NSW, 3, 5, 9, 12, 17–18, 24, 157, 400
Ordnance Division, 109–10
Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race, 334
Oxford Playhouse, 353, 396
oxygen, artificial
altitude experiments, 194–202
breathing masks, 258–9, 279
and cessation of use, 260–1
Dreyer’s experiments
oxygen drills, 202–8, 228–9, 289–90
and summit attempts (1922), 269–71, 276, 278–9
oxygen cylinders, design of, 201–2
oxylithe bag, 247
Padmadambhava, 242
Paglia Orba, 51
Parramatta, 8–9
Passchendaele, Battle of, 125
Paterson, Banjo, 12
Pen-y-Pass, 149, 331
Peto, Raymond, 231, 322–4, 360–1, 387
petrol, lead-free, 396
Pigne d’Arolla, 40
pitons, 92–4, 185
Plato, 26
Primus stoves, 163, 165, 227, 245
Queen’s Hall reception, 183–4, 193
racing cars, 352–3
Raeburn, Harold, 147, 174–7, 193
Raleigh, Sir Walter, 201
Rapiu La pass, 251, 259
Rawling, General Cecil, 124–5
Richet, Charles, 24, 26, 33
Riffelhorn, 321
Rigi, 60
Rinpoche, Dzatrul, 242
RMS Macedonia, 297
Robertson, Sir Robert, 84
Rosenhorn, 46
Royal Agricultural Society, 9
Royal Arsenal, Woolwich, 84
Royal Field Artillery, 103
Royal Geographical Journal, 303
Royal Geographical Society, 283, 307, 346
and 1921 expedition, 124–30, 144–6, 149, 151, 158, 175
and 1922 expedition, 188–9, 267
and 1924 expedition, 314
and use of artificial oxygen, 196, 199, 232, 249, 389, 392
Royal Society, 87, 364, 377
honours Finch, 373–4
Russell, Francis, 321, 396–7
Russell, Scott, 310–12, 332–3, 394, 396
Ruttledge, Hugh, 386–8
Salonika, 109, 112–13, 117, 131, 140, 187, 257, 397
Sangkar Ri, 234–6, 239–40
Schnabel, Artur, 37, 358
Schönbühl Hut, 69, 74, 323
Schreckhorn, 32
Scott, Robert Falcon, 305
Scottish Mountaineering Club, 161
Shackleton, Ernest, 305
Shakespeare, William, 136, 250
Shebbeare, Edward, 337
Shipton, Eric, 387–90
Sivel, Théodore, 195
Sketchley, Fred Powys, 107
Sketchley, Phyllis, 107–8
Smith, Conran, 101
Smith-Barry, Guy, see Forster, Guy
snakes, 11, 238, 352
Snowdon, 401
Solly, Geoffrey, 335
Somers-Cocks, Edward, 145, 199, 299
Somervell, Howard, 185, 191, 299, 302, 306
and approach to Everest, 213, 216, 218, 243, 245–6, 250–1, 255
Finch’s assessment of, 210–11
and 1924 expedition, 312, 315, 338–41
and Sangkar Ri climb, 234–6
summit attempts, 263, 265, 270–1, 272, 285, 287–9, 291–2
sustains injuries, 282
and use of artificial oxygen, 199–200, 205–7
South Pole, 126, 158, 163
Speer, 32
Spencer, Hon. Sydney, 310–16, 326–7, 332
Spitsbergen, 334
SS Caledonia, 204, 208
SS California, 331
SS Galician, 21
SS Sardinia, 159, 166
SS Titanic, 85
Staveley-Hill, Alexander, 138
Staveley-Hill, Betty, see Fisher Betty
Staveley-Hill, Flavia, 138
Strachey, Lytton, 151
Strahlegg Pass, 32
Strutt, Lieutenant-Colonel Edward Lisle (‘Bill’), 184–7, 214–16
and accident inquiry, 298–9
and approach to Everest, 216–18, 224, 227, 240, 245–7, 250
attends Winter Olympics, 336
and Finch’s Alpine Club
membership, 297–8
Finch’s assessment of, 209–10
and lectures, 306
returns home, 289, 297–8
and summit attempts, 250–2, 255, 259–60, 267, 283–4, 298
and use of artificial oxygen, 200, 205, 215, 249, 269
Sturgess, Will, 47, 74, 252
sun, distance from earth, 149
Surtees, Robert Smith, 88
Swiss Alpine Club, 399
Sydney Harbour, 7, 11, 13�
�14, 36, 96, 238, 349, 378, 395, 397
Sydney Morning Herald, 20
Sydney Opera House, 19
Sydney Sun, 137
Tchinarova, Tamara, 378–9
Tejbir Bura, Lance Corporal Naik, 252–6, 258, 260, 267, 269–77, 281–2
Tenzing Norgay, 388, 391, 402
Tergio, 275, 287, 290, 293
Theodul Pass, 169
Theosophist Society, 19, 379
Thomson, George Paget, 362
Tibet
British military expedition, 145–6
Chinese invasion, 389
and entry to Everest, 49, 125–7, 129, 143–4, 146
introduction of Buddhism, 242
Tilman, Bill, 388–9
Times, The, 232, 338, 374
and Finch–Bruce ascent, 283, 287
and Mallory’s ascent, 267–8
and Mallory’s return, 302–3
and 1921 expedition, 144–5, 157, 184
and 1953 expedition, 391–2
obituary of Finch, 404
Tissandier, Gaston, 195
Tödi, 39–40, 55–7, 63, 91, 401
Townend, Professor, 346, 369–70
Trans-Siberian Railway, 143
Turner, Yolande, 137, 139, 380
University of Brussels, 363
Unna, Percy, 165, 200, 334, 344
Villa La Fleurette, 132
Vimy Ridge, Battle of, 112
Voluntary Aid Detachment, 117
Wakefield, Dr Arthur, 191, 211, 216, 243, 252, 259–60, 267, 289, 291, 306
examines climbers, 282, 285
nickname, 239
and Sangkar Ri climb, 234–6
and use of artificial oxygen, 200, 205, 256
wallabies, 3–4, 238, 405
Washington, DC, 372–3
Washington Post, 305
Wasp, 349, 376
Weisshorn, 401
Weissnollen, 97
Wellington Valley, 8–9
Westminster Gazette, 348
Wetterhorn, 41–6, 72, 124, 191
Wheeler, Edward, 148, 175, 177–8, 183
Whymper, Edward, 23–4, 28, 40, 69, 71
Wilde, Oscar, 191
Wilhelm II, Kaiser, 81
Wills, Alfred, 191
Wilson, Henry Croasdaile, 8, 20
Windgällen hut, 59–60
Wolaroi Grammar School, 12
Wollaston, Dr Alexander ‘Sandy’, 147, 158, 160, 175, 178, 183, 299
Wood, Cynthia, 376–7, 389, 396
Wordie, James, 392
Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 90, 150, 157, 161, 191, 311, 331, 350
Younghusband, Sir Francis, 127, 186, 188–9, 223, 240, 247–8, 285, 298
The Epic of Mount Everest, 150
and 1921 expedition, 144–6, 149–52, 162, 166, 168, 175, 177, 183
and use of artificial oxygen, 199–200, 232, 249, 387
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
ROBERT WAINWRIGHT was born in Western Australia but now lives in London with his wife, journalist Paola Totaro, and their family. His previous books include the international bestseller Sheila: The Australian Ingenue who Bewitched British Society. He has written about Rose Porteous, Ian Thorpe, Justin Langer, Martin Bryant and the murder of Caroline Byrne. Robert is fascinated by characters – good and flawed – and what drives them. In George Ingle Finch, his brilliant outsider, he found an outstanding personality: complex, ambitious and volatile.
PRAISE FOR ROBERT WAINWRIGHT
‘[A] compelling biography … As a study of a man whose greatness we would do well to remember and applaud, it sparkles.’ – The Independent
‘The best passages … are those that describe the battle of scientific progress against entrenched snobbery – a fight that may have cost Finch the chance to stand on top of the world, but ought to be remembered.’ – The Economist
‘Robert Wainwright has conjured up the rasp of crampons on sheet ice, the taste of peaches eaten from the tin, and the bitchiness endemic among the frozen-bearded tribe of climbers and explorers.’ – The Spectator
‘A skilfully written books which contains much assiduous research. The narrative is thoughtfully enhanced by the use of diaries and letters from the Finch family archive.’ – Climb Magazine
‘Fascinating.’ – Sydney Morning Herald
‘A marvellously entertaining story.’ – Daily Express
‘The charm of Wainwright’s biography is that he makes us see what an engaging, admirable and sometimes heroic quality it is to be a life-enhancer like Sheila.’ – Daily Mail
‘This splendid biography evokes the glamour of a vanished age.’ – Mail on Sunday
‘Wainwright’s extremely readable style is largely linear, with tantalising references to future events.’ – Yorkshire Post
COPYRIGHT
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First published in Australia in 2015
This edition published in 2017
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Copyright © Robert Wainwright 2015
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The brilliant outsider / Robert Wainwright.
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Mount Everest Expedition (1922)
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The Brilliant Outsider Page 37