The Great Fashion Designers

by Brenda Polan

  Duras, M. (1988), Yves Saint Laurent: Images of Design 1958–1988, New York: Alfred A. Knopf.

  Eastoe, J., and Gristwood, S. (2008), Fabulous Frocks, London: Pavillion.

  Edelman, A.H. (1997), The Little Black Dress, London: Aurum.

  Elting, L. (1999), ‘Revealing the Accomplishments of Madame Paquin, the Very Queen of Dressmakers,’ MA thesis, Courtauld Institute of Art, London.

  English, B. (2007), A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th Century: From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk, Oxford: Berg.

  Esquevin, C. (2008), Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label, New York: Monacelli Press.

  Etherington-Smith, M. (1983), Patou, London: Hutchinson.

  Evans, C. (2003), Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity, and Deathliness, New Haven: Yale University Press.

  Evans, C. (2008), ‘Jean Patou’s American Mannequins: Early Fashion Shows and Modernism’, Modernism/modernity, 15/2, April.

  Evans, C., and Thornton M. (1989), Women and Fashion: A New Look, London: Quartet Books.

  Ewing, E., and Mackrell, A. (1992), History of 20th Century Fashion, London: Batsford.

  Fairchild, J. (1965), The Fashionable Savages, New York: Doubleday.

  Fairchild, J. (1989), Chic Savages, New York: Simon & Schuster.

  Ferragamo, S. (1957), Shoemaker of Dreams, London: Harrap.

  Flanner, J. (1940), ‘Pioneer’, The New Yorker, January 13.

  Foley, B. (2001), ‘Who’s Number One?’, WWD special edition, July.

  Foley, B. (2004), Marc Jacobs, New York: Editions Assouline.

  Ford, T. (2004), Tom Ford, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Frankel, S. (2001), Visionaries, London: V&A Publications.

  Frankel, S. (2004), ‘The Feeling Is Miuccia’, The Independent, February 21.

  Fraser, K. (1981), ‘Feminine Fashions’, The New Yorker, July 13.

  Fraser, K. (1984), The Fashionable Mind: Reflections on Fashion 1970–1982, New York: Random House.

  Friedman, V. (2008), ‘Prada’, Ten, Autumn.

  Gaines, S. (1991), Halston,: The Untold Story, New York: Putnam.

  Gaines, S., and Churcher, S. (1994), Obsession: the Lives & Times of Calvin Klein, New York: Birch Lane Press.

  Gale, C., and Kaur, J. (2004), Fashion and Textiles: An Overview, Oxford: Berg.

  Galloni, A. (2007), ‘The Designer Defends Prada’, The Wall Street Journal, January 25.

  Gaultier, J.P. (1990), A nous deux la Mode, Paris: Editions Flammarion.

  Golbin, P. (ed.) (2006), Balenciaga Paris, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Golbin, P. (2008), Valentino: Themes and Variations, New York: Rizzoli.

  Gorman, P. (2001), The Look: Adventures in Pop and Rock Fashion, foreword by Malcolm Mclaren, London: Sanctuary.

  Green, J. (1998), All Dressed Up: The Sixties and the Counterculture, London: Pimlico.

  Grigoriadis, V. (2008), ‘The Deep Shallowness of Marc Jacobs’, Rolling Stone, December.

  Gross, E., and Rottman, F. (1999), Halston: An American Original, London: Harper Collins.

  Gross, M. (1995), Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women, New York: William Morrow.

  Gross, M. (2003), Genuine Authentic: The Real Life of Ralph Lauren, New York: HarperCollins.

  Guillaume, V. (1998), Courrèges, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Hall, S., and Jefferson, T. (eds.) (1996), Resistance Through Rituals, Youth Sub-Cultures in Post-War Britain, London: Routledge.

  Hastreiter, K. (2008), Geoffrey Beene: Fashion Rebel, Paris: Assouline.

  Hawes, E. (1938), Fashion Is Spinach, New York: Random House.

  Heathcote, P. (1960), The House of Dior’, The Guardian, August 1.

  Hebdige, D. (1993), Subculture: The Meaning of Style, London: Routledge.

  Heller, Z. (1997), ‘Jacobs’ Ladder’, The New Yorker, September 22.

  Holborn, M. (1995), Issey Miyake, Koln: Taschen Hollander, A. (1978), Seeing Through Clothes, Berkeley: University of California Press.

  Hollander, A. (1994), Sex and Suits, New York: Alfred Knopf.

  Hopkins, H. (1963), The New Look: A Social History of the Forties and Fifties in Britain, London: Secker & Warburg.

  Horyn, C. (1998), ‘Naked Ambition’, Vanity Fair, May.

  Horyn, C. (2007), ‘Q&A: Nicolas Ghesquière’, The New York Times, June 29.

  Howell, G. (1990), Sultans of Style, London: Ebury Press.

  Howell, G. (1991), In Vogue, London: Random Century.

  Howell, G. (1998), Diana: Her Life in Fashion, London: Pavilion.

  Jacobs, L. (1999), Beauty and the Beene: A Modern Legend, New York: Harry. N. Abrams.

  Janbon, C. (1999), ‘Callot Soeurs,’ MA thesis, Courtauld Institute of Art, London.

  Join-Dieterle, C.. Train, S., and Lepicard, M-J. (1991), Givenchy: 40 Years of Creation, Paris: Paris Musées/Palais Galliera.

  Jones, T. (ed.) (2001), Smile I-D: Fashion and Style. The Best from 20 Years of I-D. Cologne: Taschen.

  Karimzadeh, M. (2006), ‘Can You Handle It?’, WWD The Magazine, Fall.

  Kawamura, Y. (2004), The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion, Oxford: Berg.

  Keogh, P.C. (1999), Audrey Style, New York, HarperCollins Publishers.

  Kirke, B. (1998), Madeleine Vionnet, San Francisco: Chronicle Books.

  Koda, H. (1987), Three Women: Madeleine Vionnet, Claire McCardell, Rei Kawakubo, New York: Fashion Institute of Technology.

  Koda, H. (2001), Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Koda, H. (2003), Goddess: The Classical Mode, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Koda H., and Bolton A. (2005), Chanel, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Koda H., and Bolton A. (2007), Poiret, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Koren, L. (1984), New Fashion Japan, Tokyo: Kodansha International.

  Krell, G. (1997), Vivienne Westwood, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Langle, E. (2005), Pierre Cardin: Fifty Years of Fashion and Design, New York: Vendome Press.

  Laver, J. (1969), A Concise History of Costume, London: Thames & Hudson

  Lee, S.T. (ed.) (1975), American Fashion: The Life and Lines of Adrian, Mainbocher, McCardell, Norell, and Trigére, New York: Fashion Institute of Technology.

  Lobenthal, J. (1990), Radical Rags: Fashions of the Sixties, New York: Abbeville Press.

  Lonsdale, S. (2000), Japanese Style, London: Carlton Books.

  Loyaute, B. (2006), Pierre Cardin Evolution, Paris: Flammarion.

  Mackrell, A. (1990), Paul Poiret, London: B.T. Batsford.

  Mackrell, A. (1992), Coco Chanel, London: B.T. Batsford.

  Madsen, A. (1990), Coco Chanel, London: Bloomsbury.

  Marsh, L. (2003), The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy and a Business Obsession, New York: Wiley.

  Martin R. (1987), Fashion and Surrealism, New York: Rizzoli.

  Martin, R. (1998), American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s–1970s, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Martin, R. (1997), Gianni Versace, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art/Abrams.

  Martin, R. (1997), Versace, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Martin, R. (1998), Charles James, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Martin, R., and Koda, H. (1989), The Historical Mode: Fashion and Art in the 1980s, New York: Rizzoli.

  Martin, R., and Koda, H. (1990), Giorgio Armani: Images of Man, New York: Rizzoli.

  Martin, R., and Koda, H. (1994), Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Martin R., and Koda H. (1996), Haute Couture, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Massey A. (2000), Hollywood Beyond the Screen, Oxford: Berg.

  Mead, R. (1998), ‘The Crazy Professor’, The New Yorker, March 30.

  McCardell, C. (1956), What Shall I Wear?
New York: Simon & Schuster.

  McConathy, D. (1975), ‘Mainbocher’, in S.T. Lee (ed.), American Fashion: The Life and Lines of Adrian, Mainbocher, McCardell, Norell, and Trigere, New York: Fashion Institute of Technology.

  McDermott, C. (1987), Streetstyle: British Design in the Eighties, London: Design Council.

  McDermott, C. (1999) Vivienne Westwood, London: Carlton Books.

  McDowell, C. (1987), McDowell’s Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion, 2nd ed., London: Frederick Muller.

  McDowell, C. (1989), Shoes: Fashion and Fantasy, London: Thames & Hudson.

  McDowell, C. (1997), Forties Fashion and the New Look, London: Bloomsbury.

  McDowell, C. (1997), John Galliano, London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson.

  McDowell, C. (1997), The Man of Fashion: Peacock Males and Perfect Gentlemen, London: Thames & Hudson.

  McDowell, C. (2000), Jean Paul Gaultier, London: Cassell & Co.

  McDowell, C. (2002), Ralph Lauren: The Man, the Vision, the Style, New York: Rizzoli

  McDowell, C. (2003), Fashion Today, London: Phaidon

  McRobbie, A. (ed.) (1989), Zootsuits & Second-Hand Dresses, An Anthology of Fashion & Music, London: Macmillan.

  McRobbie, A. (1994), Postmodernism and Popular Culture, London: Routledge.

  Mears, P. (2007), Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion, New York: Fashion Institute of Technology.

  Mellor, D.A., and Gervereau, L. (eds.) (1997), The Sixties: Britain and France, 1960–1973 The Utopian Years, London: Philip Wilson.

  Mendes, V. (1990), Pierre Cardin: Past, Present, Future, London: 3Nishen Publishing.

  Menkes, S. (2006), ‘The Mistress of Us All’, The International Herald Tribune, February 27.

  Menkes, S. (2008), ‘Balenciaga—Austerity Chic’, The International Herald Tribune, February 26.

  Merceron, D.L. (2007), Lanvin, New York: Rizzoli.

  Miglietti. F.A. (2006), Fashion Statements: Interviews with Fashion Designers, Milan: Skira.

  Milbank, C.R. (1985), Couture: The Great Fashion Designers, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Milbank, C.R. (1989), New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style, New York: Harry N. Abrams.

  Milinaire, C., and Troy, C. (1978), Cheap Chic, New York: Crown Publishers.

  Miller, A., Tarr, P., and Dalva, N. (2005), Geoffrey Beene: A Design Tribute, New York: 2wice Arts Foundation.

  Miller, L. E. (1993), Balenciaga, London: Batsford.

  Miller, L. E. (2007), Balenciaga, London: V&A Publications.

  Mitchell, L., English, B., and Fukai, A. (2005), The Cutting Edge: Fashion from Japan, Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing.

  Moffit, P., and Claxton, W. (1991), The Rudi Gernreich Book, New York: Rizzoli.

  Mohrt, F. (1998), The Givenchy Style, Paris: Assouline.

  Molho, R., and Shugaar, A. (2007), Being Armani: A Biography, Milan: Baldini Castoldi Dalai.

  Molloy, J.T. (1980), Women: Dress For Success, New York: Foulsham.

  Morais, R. (1991), Pierre Cardin: The Man Who Became a Label, London: Bantam Press.

  Morand, P., (2008), The Allure of Chanel, tr. E. Cameron, London: Pushkin Press.

  Morris, B., (1978), ‘Halston’s special way with Tradition’, New York Times, December 20.

  Morton, C. (2008), ‘John Galliano’s Year of Magic’, Harper’s Bazaar (UK), April.

  Mower, S. (2005), 20 Years Dolce & Gabbana, Milan: Dolce & Gabbana S.r.l.

  Mulvagh, J. (1988), Vogue: History of Twentieth Century Fashion, London: Viking.

  Mulvagh, J. (1998), Vivienne Westwood: An Unfashionable Life, London: HarperCollins.

  Nava, M. (1992), Changing Cultures, Feminism, Youth and Consumerism, London: Sage.

  Norman, P. (1990), The Age of Parody: Dispatches from the Eighties, London: Hamish Hamilton.

  Pasi, M. (1987), Versace Teatro, tr. W. Weaver, Milan: Franco Maria Ricci.

  Pasols, P-G, (2005), Louis Vuitton, The Birth of Modern Luxury, tr. L. Ammon, New York: Harry N. Abrams.

  Penn, I., Kitamura, M., and Holborn, M. (introduction) (1998), Irving Penn Regards the Work of Issey Miyake, London: Jonathan Cape.

  Piacenti, K.A., Ricci, S., and Vergani, G. (1985), Salvatore Ferragamo, Florence: Palazzo Strozzi.

  Piaggi, A. (1980), Lagerfeld’s Sketchbook, New York: Weidenfeld & Nicolson.

  Piaggi, A. (1982), Armani, Milan: Franco Maria Ricci.

  Pochna, M-F., and Galliano, J. (2008), Christian Dior: The Biography, New York: Duckworth.

  Poiret, P. (1931), My First Fifty Years, tr. S.H. Guest, London: Victor Gollancz.

  Polan, B. (1979), ‘A New Look from the Man Behind the Mini’, The Guardian, August 15.

  Polan, B. (1982), ‘Mary Comes Back into Fashion’, The Guardian, March 4.

  Polan, B. (ed.) (1983) The Fashion Year 1983, London: Zomba.

  Polan, B. (ed.) (1984), Fashion 84, New York: St Martins Press.

  Polan, B (2000), ‘Armani,’ How To Spend It Magazine, The Financial Times (London).

  Polhemus, T. (1994), Street Style: From Sidewalk to Catwalk, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Probert, C. (1981), Shoes in Vogue Since 1910, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Quant, M. (1965), Quant by Quant, London: Cassell.

  Quick, H. (2002), ‘Killer McQueen’, Vogue (UK), October.

  Quick, H. (2006), ‘Saint Nicolas’, Vogue (UK), August.

  Rawsthorn, A. (1998), Yves Saint Laurent, London: Harper Collins.

  Ricci, S. (2006), Walking Dreams: Salvatore Ferragamo 1890–1960, Mexico City: Editorial RM.

  Ricci, S. (ed.) (2008), Salvatore Ferragamo: Evolving Legend 1928–2008, Milan: Skira.

  Richards, M. (2000), Chanel Key Collections, London: Hamlyn.

  Riello, G., and McNeil, P. (eds.) (2006), Shoes: A History from Sandals to Sneakers, Oxford: Berg.

  Riley, R. (1975), ‘Adrian’, in S.T. Lee (ed.), American Fashion: The Life and Lines of Adrian, Mainbocher, McCardell, Norell, and Trigere, New York: Fashion Institute of Technology.

  Rossi, W.A. (1977), The Sex Life of the Foot and Shoe, London: Routledge & Kegan Paul.

  Rowbotham, S. (2001), Promise of a Dream: Remembering the Sixties, London: Verso.

  Sainderichin, G. (1998). Kenzo, Fashion Memoir series, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Saint Laurent, Y., Vreeland, D, et al. (1983), Yves Saint Laurent, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications.

  Sato, K. (1998), Issey Miyake: Making Things, Paris: Fondation Cartier/Scalo.

  Savage, J. (1991), England’s Dreaming: Sex Pistols and Punk Rock, London: Faber and Faber.

  Schiaparelli, E. (1954), Shocking Life, New York, E.P. Dutton.

  Schoumann, H. (2002), Chloé, New York: Editions Assouline.

  Singer S. (2001), ‘Bonjour Jeunesse’, Vogue (U.S.), March.

  Sirop, D. (1989), Paquin, Paris: Editions Adam Biro.

  Sischy, I. (1998), Donna Karan New York, New York: Vendome Universe of Fashion.

  Sischy, I. (2004), The Journey of a Woman: 20 Years of Donna Karan, New York: Assouline.

  Smith, P. (2001), You Can Find Inspiration in Everything (And If You Can’t, Look Again), London: Violette Editions.

  Socha, Miles (2008), ‘Art versus Commerce: Can Margiela Expand Without Selling Out?’, WWD, May 2.

  Sozzani, F. (1999), Dolce & Gabbana, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Sparke, P. (1987), Japanese Design, London: Swallow Publishing.

  Steele, V. (1991), Women of Fashion, New York: Rizzoli International Publications.

  Steele, V. (1996), Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power, Oxford: Oxford University Press.

  Steele, V. (1997), Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now, New Haven: Yale University Press.

  Steele, V. (1998), Shoes: A Lexicon of Style, London: Scriptum Editions.

  Steele, V., and Park, J. (2008), Gothic: Dark Glamour, New Haven: Yale University Press.

  Stegemeyer, A. (1996), Who’s Who in Fashion, New York: Fairchild Publications.

  Stevens, J. (1987), ‘In
troduction’ in N. Coleridge and S. Quinn (eds.), The Sixties in Queen, London: Ebury Press.

  Stewart, M.L. (2005), ‘Copying and Copyrighting Haute Couture: Democratizing Fashion, 1900–1930s’, French Historical Studies, 28/1, winter.

  Sudjic, D. (1990), Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons, New York: Rizzoli International Publications.

  Teboul, D. (2002), Yves Saint Laurent, 5 Avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris France, New York: Abrams.

  Thomas, D. (2007), Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre, London: Allen Lane.

  Trasko, M. (1989), Heavenly Soles: Extraordinary Twentieth Century Shoes, New York: Abbeville Press.

  Tredre, R. (1990), ‘The Grind Behind the Glamour’, The Independent, October 18.

  Tredre, R. (1990), ‘A One-man Revolt Against the Cliche’, The Independent, August 2.

  Tredre, R. (1990), ‘Who Is that Guy Everyone’s Talking About?’, The Independent.

  Tredre, R. (1990), ‘The World According to Paul Smith’, He Lines.

  Tredre, R. (1992), ‘Galliano Meets His Maker’, The Independent, August 13.

  Tredre, R. (1994), ‘Kaiser Karl’, The Observer, August 7.

  Tredre, R. (1995), ‘King of Couture’, The Observer, July 23.

  Tredre, R. (2001), ‘YSL Menswear’, WGSN.com, February 1.

  Troy, N.J. (2003), Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Culture, Boston: MIT Press.

  Tsurimoto, S. (ed.) (1983), Issey Miyake: Bodyworks, Tokyo: Shogakukan.

  Vergani, G. (1992), La Sala Bianca: the Birth of Italian Fashion, Milan: Electra.

  Vermorel, F. (1996), Fashion and Perversity: A Life of Vivienne Westwood and the Sixties Laid Bare, London: Bloomsbury.

  Vinken, B. (2005), Fashion Zeitgeist, tr. M. Hewson, Oxford, New York: Berg.

  Vreeland, D. (1997), D.V., New York: Da Capo.

  Vreeland, D., and Isozaki, A. (1978), Issey Miyake: East Meets West, Tokyo: Heibonsha.

  Walford, J. (2007), The Seductive Shoe: Four Centuries of Fashion Footwear, London: Thames & Hudson.

  Walker, M. (2006), Balenciaga and His Legacy, New Haven: Yale University Press.

  Wallach J. (1998), Chanel: Her Style and Her Life, New York: Doubleday.

  Watson, L. (1999), Vogue: Twentieth Century Fashion, London: Carlton.

  Welters, L., and Lillethun, A. (2007), The Fashion Reader, Oxford: Berg.

  White, N. (2000), Reconstructing Italian Fashion. Oxford: Berg.