The Makeup Artist Handbook

by Gretchen Davis

  Figure 2.1 Facial Surface Anatomy

  Photographer Darrell Peterson

  Elsevier, all rights reserved

  Figure 2.2 Skull Surface Anatomy

  Photographer Darrell Peterson

  Elsevier, all rights reserved

  Figure 2.3 Skeletal System

  Wolters Kluwer Health/Lippincott, Williams & Wilkins

  The Bones of the Cranium

  Occipital: The hindmost bone of the skull. Forms the back of the head above the nape.

  Parietal: Two bones that form the sides and crown of the cranium.

  Frontal: Forms the forehead.

  Temporal: Two bones that form the sides of the head by the ears.

  Ethmoid: Between the eye sockets. Forms part of the nasal cavities.

  Sphenoid: Joins all the cranium bones together.

  The Bones of the Face

  Nasal: Two bones that form the bridge of the nose.

  Lacrimal: These two bones make up the eye sockets.

  Zygomatic (or Malar): The two cheekbones.

  Maxillae: Two bones that form the upper jaw.

  Mandible: The lower jaw, the largest and strongest facial bone.

  The Muscular System

  There are over 600 muscles in the muscular system (Figure 2.4). Muscles are divided into three classes: cardiac, striated (skeletal), and nonstriated (smooth). We deal only with the striated or skeleton muscles that are attached to bones and controlled by will.

  Figure 2.4 Muscular System

  Wolters Kluwer Health/Lippincott, Williams & Wilkins

  Ligaments (which hold the bones together) and tendons (which are connectors between the bones and the muscles) help aid muscles to execute movement. Origin is where the muscle is attached to bones that do not move. Insertion is where a muscle is attached to a movable bone.

  Vascular System

  The vascular system (Figure 2.3) is a set of complex veins that transport blood to and from the heart, transport oxygenated blood from the lungs to the heart, and drain blood from the intestines and the supporting organs. The cardiovascular system is made of heart and blood vessels, arteries, veins, and capillaries that together comprise the circulatory system. Pulmonary circulation sends blood on a path from the heart to the lungs and back again, and the systemic circulation sends blood from the heart to other parts of the body and back again.

  Facial Muscles and Expression

  Facial expressions are universal. The six basic facials codes are enjoyment, anger, fear, surprise, disgust, and sadness. Makeup Artists are often asked to reproduce these emotions with the use of makeup. The facial muscles come into play by forming these expressions. Changing or reshaping the eyebrow, adding a highlighter or shadow in the right place, can give off different emotional signals.

  Facial muscles are formed in four different groups: scalp and facial muscles, eye and eye socket muscles, mouth muscles, and jaw muscles.

  Six Facial Codes

  Enjoyment (Figure 2.6): A smile employs two muscles. The zygomatic major curves the mouth, and the orbicularis oculi raises the cheeks. The cheeks, in turn, press the skin toward the eye, causing a squint. Eyes appear brighter.

  Figure 2.6 Enjoyment

  Anger (Figure 2.7): The person appears to be in deep concentration. Eyebrows appear to have moved downward, and the lips look pursed (orbicularis oris muscle). When angry, the blood can rush to the face. A flushing of redness can occur.

  Figure 2.7 Anger

  Figure 2.5.

  Vascular System

  Fear (Figure 2.8): Eyes are wide and eyebrows lifted toward each other. Lips pull back (buccinator muscle) and even tremble. Lips can be dry. In terror, nostrils dilate, pupils widen, and perspiration appears on the forehead.

  Figure 2.8 Fear

  Surprise (Figure 2.9): Surprise is a lot like fear except that, for the seconds before fear takes over, the eyes and mouth open (temporalis muscle working with the masseter muscle), and the eyebrows arch (frontalis muscle). Surprise began as a protective measure. We humans raise our eyebrows.

  Figure 2.9 Surprise

  Disgust (Figure 2.10): The mouth can open slightly. The nose can turn up slightly and wrinkle (procerus muscle), as if to acknowledge something foul.

  Figure 2.10 Disgust

  Sadness (Figure 2.11): The face seems to sag. Wrinkles on the mid-forehead, eyebrows droop, and the corners of the mouth go down (triangularis muscle).

  Figure 2.11 Sadness

  (From The Face: A Natural History, by Daniel McNeill.)

  Skin

  The skin (Figure 2.12) is the largest organ we have, weighing in around six pounds. The skin is made up of several layers. The outer layer is the epidermis, which protects us from disease and dehydration. The next layer is the dermis, which contains blood vessels, nerve endings, and glands. Beneath all of that, let's not forget the subcutaneous layer, which has connective tissues and fat, maintaining body heat and storing energy.

  Figure 2.12 Illustration of Fine Details of Skin

  Wolters Kluwer Health/Lippincott, Williams & Wilkins

  Wounds and diseases also play a big part for the Makeup Artist. It becomes clear why it is important to study the human body. Having medical books of all kinds is a valuable tool for research. Not only should you know the medical explanation of wounds or diseases, but also the scene or environment that caused the wound or disease in the first place. With that knowledge, you can then decide what products you will use and how to execute realistic makeup. The following touches on only a few examples of wounds and diseases that involve anatomy and the Makeup Artist.

  Shock: A term used for tissue and organ failure. There are three forms of shock. All have three stages. Stage one symptoms include cold, pale skin, and rapid heartbeat. Stage two symptoms include weak pulse and cold, clammy skin. Stage three is unconsciousness, shallow breathing, and rapid falling of blood pressure.

  Disease: Can be caused by a number of environmental conditions or behaviors (e.g., exposure to people carrying infection, smoking, drug use) or be related to inherent characteristics beyond the individual's control (e.g., age, gender). There are times when a disease has no known cause. When metabolism or cells change, symptoms can occur that, in turn, make a person aware that a disease is present. Most often a disease goes through stages, such as starting with exposure and ending with remission or full recovery.

  Allergies: Can be caused by airborne irritants. Symptoms can include sneezing, watery eyes, itchy throat, headaches, sore red eyes, runny nose, and dark circles under the eyes.

  Anthrax: A bacterial infection. Inhalation of anthrax symptoms are fever and nausea with flu-like symptoms. Breathing can be difficult. Intestinal anthrax symptoms are fever, nausea, decreased appetite, and abdominal pain. Cutaneous anthrax is characterized by small, elevated, itchy lesions.

  Facial Skin Disorders

  As a Makeup Artist, you'll need to recognize skin disorders and what is the best method for correcting or camouflaging the surface of the skin. Using an airbrush works well for many of the following situations because you will have less contact with the surface of the skin. It also reduces the amount of rubbing and blending that can irritate already sensitive skin. Skin disorders that cause the skin's surface to be dry and flaky will also benefit from less rubbing when using an airbrush. Bradley Look explains how to address selected skin disorders.

  Port-Wine Stain (Nevus Flammeus): Flat, irregular red to purple patches. Starts out as a smooth surface, but can become an uneven, bumpy texture. Most often will darken with age.

  Bradley Look: To camouflage port-wine stains, mix a mint green adjuster into a base color. Lightly haze the area, letting the edge trail off. Let this dry before covering the affected area and the surrounding skin with foundation. If there is still some bleed-through of the port-wine stain, use Michael Davy's Airbrush Grade Prosthetic Cosmetic 2, which has double the amount of pigmentation.

  Psoriasis: An ongoing disease with periods of remission. Dry, flaky scales,
or thickened skin around lesions can be itchy and painful.

  Bradley Look: To camouflage psoriasis, stipple a light layer of rubber mask grease over the affected area. Lightly powder to set. Using an airbrush, lightly cover the area with several light passes of airbrush product. Since psoriasis is notably seen only on the elbows and knees, additional body makeup might be required using the same technique if the condition is visible elsewhere on the talent.

  Rosacea: Common among people with a Celtic background. Rosacea has a butterfly-like redness over the nose and cheek area. People most often mistake rosacea for acne.

  Bradley Look: To camouflage rosacea, use a similar technique to the one outlined for portwine stain.

  Scars: Usually thick and pink with a smooth texture. Over time, scars should fade to a very pale white. Scars are broken down into two types: indented or protruding.

  Bradley Look: For the indented scar, using a tattoo palette, apply a highlight (slightly paler than the skin tone) around the edge of the scar. Next, around the area of highlight, apply slightly darker tone than the skin color. By the creative use of highlights and shadow, you are attempting to make the scar appear less indented. Afterward, spray over with appropriate foundation color. For a protruding scar, apply tattoo palette colors in the exact opposite order as listed above. Shadow is applied to the edge of the scar and blended outward. Foundation is then airbrushed over the entire area. Note: A hypertrophy scar can be toned down using makeup; the 3-D dimension is still quite visible if not properly lit.

  Vitiligo: Complete loss of pigment over time. There is often a splotchy look to the skin. In fair skin, it is often not very noticeable, but it is disfiguring to darker skin tones.

  Bradley Look: To camouflage vitiligo, airbrush a medium flesh tone over the area. Next, lightly airbrush the foundation color over the affected area and the rest of the face.

  Viral, Bacterial, and Other Disorders

  Conjunctivitis: Bacterial infection of the eyes. Symptoms are pain, tearing, and redness with fluid discharge of the eyes.

  Meningitis: Bacterial infection of the meninges, which are the delicate membranes that cover the brain and spinal cord. Symptoms can include fever, severe headache, stiff neck and shoulders, a dark red or purplish rash anywhere on the body, mental confusion, vomiting, and sensitivity to bright light.

  Tuberculosis: Bacterial infection in which bacilli are deposited in the lungs. Symptoms are fatigue, weight loss, night sweats, and weakness. A cough may also be present.

  Tetanus: Bacterial infection caused by open cuts and wounds having contact with infected soils, dust, and other agents that cause infection at the site of the wound. Unchecked, the infection will enter the bloodstream, causing painful, deepmuscle spasms.

  Pneumonia: Bacterial infection. Pneumonia is the most dangerous to the very young and the elderly. Coughing, fever, chills, deep chest pain, wheezing, and fatigue are some of the most common symptoms.

  Herpes Zoster: Viral infection. Symptoms are small, painful red skin lesions that develop along the nerve path.

  HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus): Virus is passed by blood-to-blood and/or sexual contact.

  Mumps: Viral disease characterized by swelling and tender parotid gland and salivary glands.

  Leukemia: Blood disorder. No one knows the cause of this disease, although genetics, environment, and the immune system might play a part. Symptoms include paleness, high fever, abnormal bleeding, and weight loss. As the disease progresses, the symptoms become more severe, including infections, organ enlargement, and tender bones.

  Rubella: Viral disease. A rash forms on the face, and then quickly spreads to the rest of the body.

  Smallpox: Viral disease. A rash forms on the face, spreading to the trunk of the body. Lesions form inside the mouth and nose.

  Chicken Pox: Viral disease. A small rash forms that turns into papules.

  Environmental Conditions

  Frostbite: Freezing of body parts, mostly nose, fingers, and toes. Frostbite has three different stages. The first stage is pain with itching, and sometimes swelling. The second stage is marked by blisters that can turn black. In the third stage, redness and deep purple colors, severe blisters, and sometimes loss of extremities in the affected area are observed.

  Heat Exhaustion: Occurs after exposure to heat for long periods of time. There is also a loss of fluids. Symptoms include fatigue, nausea with vomiting, sweating, and headache.

  Heatstroke: Elevated body temperature. Symptoms include red skin, no sweating, elevated body temperature, difficulty breathing, confusion, seizure, and possible coma.

  Anatomy Terms

  Anatomy is a complex field, but we'll concentrate on the areas that Makeup Artists most likely will use as references. The following terms outline only a few components of the skeletal, muscular, and circulatory systems.

  The Skeletal System

  The skeleton is divided into two different areas. The axial is made up of the skull, vertebral column, sternum, and ribs. The appendicular skeleton is made up of the upper and lower extremities. The skull is divided into cranial bones. These bones form the cranial cavity. The cranial cavity houses the brain and facial bones, which, in turn, form the face.

  The Skull

  Frontal Bone: Bone located at the forehead. Helps define the orbits of the eye.

  Mandible: The lower jawbone.

  Maxillae: The upper jawbones.

  Nasal Bones: There are two nasal bones. The vomer bone separates the nasal cavities.

  Occipital Bone: Large bone that makes up the base of the cranium.

  Zygomatic Arch: Bone that defines the cheekbone.

  Spinal Column

  The spinal column is made up of 26 bones. The bones protect the spinal cord. The spinal column is strong and flexible—allowing movement, supporting the head, and serving as the attachment for the ribs and muscles.

  Upper Body

  Clavicle: Collarbone.

  Scapula: Along with the humerus, forms the shoulder joint.

  Ribs: Curved bones connected to the thoracic vertebrae.

  Sternum: Breast bone.

  Humerus: Upper arm bone.

  Radius: One of two lower arm bones. The radius is narrow at the end that connects with the humerus, and wider at the joints it forms with the wrist bones.

  Ulna: One of two lower arm bones opposite in shape to the radius.

  Carpal Bones: Wrist bones.

  Metacarpals: Hand bones.

  Phalanges: Finger bones.

  Lower Body

  Pelvic Bone: Attaches the lower body to the axial skeleton.

  Femur: Thigh bone. It is the strongest bone in the body.

  Patella: Kneecap.

  Tibia: The larger of the two bones that form the lower leg bone.

  Fibula: The smaller of the two bones that form the lower leg bone.

  Tarsals: Ankle bones.

  Metatarsals: Foot bones.

  Phalanges: Toes.

  Joints: Where two or more bones come together to either aid movement and/or keep the skeleton together.

  The Muscular System

  Muscles are described by size, shape, origin, and function. There are over 700 known muscles in the body. A number of facial muscle categories are mentioned here.

  Jaw Muscles

  Masseter: Raises the jaw and clenches the teeth.

  Temporalis: Helps the masseter muscle to raise the jaw and clench the teeth.

  Mouth Muscles

  Buccinator: Draws the corners of the mouth backward, flattens and tightens the lips.

  Caninus: Raises the corner of the mouth.

  Mentalis: Raises and tightens the chin, thrusts the lower lip up and outward.

  Orbicularis Oris: Circles the mouth and purses the lips.

  Risorius: Pulls the corner of the mouth sideward and outward.

  Triangularis: Pulls the corner of the mouth downward.

  Zygomaticus Major and Minor: Muscles that raise the mouth upward and outward.

/>   Eye Muscles

  Corrugator: Assists the orbicularis muscles in compressing skin between the eyebrows. Vertical wrinkles form.

  Orbicularis Oculi: Closes the eyelids and compresses the opening of the eye from above and below.

  Procerus: Tightens the inner eye by wrinkling the skin on the nose.

  Face Muscle

  Frontalis (Frontal Part): Draws the scalp to the front, wrinkles the forehead, and pulls the eyebrows upward.

  Platysma: Neck muscle that draws the lower lip downward and upward.

  Circulatory System and Veins

  The circulatory system is made up of two subsystems. In the pulmonary system, the right side of the heart receives deoxygenated blood from the rest of the body and pumps it to the lungs. In the vascular system, the left side of the heart receives oxygenated blood from the lungs and sends it to the rest of the body. Arteries carry blood from the heart to the tissues and organs. Veins return the blood to the heart.