The Makeup Artist Handbook
Page 8
How does the color wheel apply to custom blending cosmetics? In Chapter 3, we showed you the Real Color Wheel (RCW) for mixing pigments. Nancy uses the traditional artist color wheel for custom blending of cosmetics. The traditional color wheel primaries are red, blue, and yellow. Makeup foundations have these colors in them. To custom blend a foundation to match the client's skin perfectly, you must begin by determining whether the client is warm toned (with golden undertones) or cool toned (with blue undertones). People rarely look blue, so we say cool (or blue) undertones. A variety of brown shades can be made by combining the primary colors.
To intensify a color, you add an additional amount of that same color. To neutralize a color, we look at our color wheel and choose the color directly across from the color we want to lessen. For example, if a foundation is too yellow, if we look at a color wheel, we see the opposite color is violet. We add small amounts of violet until we reach the desired tone.
Here is a guide to determine which colors intensify a color, and which colors neutralize a color.
• If the person needs more gold, add yellow.
• If the person needs less yellow, add violet.
• If the person needs less pink or has rosacea, add green.
• If the person needs less peach, first add mint, then violet.
This method can be used with translucent powders as well. Most private-label makeup companies offer the tools to custom blend, as well as empty bottles or jars, and larger-sized foundation bottles to work from. Always mix your foundations in a beaker for accurate measurements. With practice, you will learn the exact amounts to add. If you add too much color to neutralize, you can always add back in some of the opposite color. Check your color wheel.
Color Theory and Mixing Foundations
By Nancy Tozier, Director of Education and President, Take Up Makeup Cosmetics
To custom blend a foundation that matches the client's skin perfectly, you must begin by determining whether the client is warm toned or cool toned. Does the client's skin have golden undertones or cool undertones? (Cool undertones are sometimes referred to as blue undertones, but because people rarely look blue; let's say cool.) Here's what to do:
1. If you have on hand different colors of cosmetic or barber caps or drapes, these would be helpful in determining skin tones.
2. Look closely at the actor's skin tone. Do you see any gold? Don't confuse a beige or brown tone with golden. Many people with different depths of color can be cool toned.
Make sure that the actor is seated in bright daylight so that you will get the best view of the skin without interference from other sources of color.
3. If you think the actor has a warm skin tone and their skin is fair, then light golden yellow, gold, or adobe would be good colors to place next to the skin.
If you think the actor has a golden skin tone but has darker coloring, burnt orange, avocado green, or deep gold would be good colors next to the skin. What you are looking for is if their skin takes on a healthy look.
Pro Tip
You can use blusher or eye-shadow colors from your makeup kit that are similar to the colors suggested above for checking skin tones.
4. If a color is wrong for a person, their skin will take on a grayish cast. If the color is good for a person, they will look healthy and vibrant. Don't let your preference for a color cloud your vision. You are looking for the effect on the skin, not if you like the color. Learning to see the whole picture takes practice, so don't get discouraged if it isn't easily apparent at first. Use the chart in Figure 6.2 to help you find the colors that bring out the best for clients with different skin tones.
Figure 6.2 Take up Makeup Cosmetics Color Chart
Foundation Mixing
By Nancy Tozier, Director of Education and President, Take Up Makeup Cosmetics
Once you have determined the shades that are best suited to the person, you will begin the process of mixing foundations to correct or enhance skin tone.
First, be sure that the client is seated in good daylight, just as you did in the color exercise. You will need to have the following on hand:
1. Several shades of foundation that are close to your client's natural coloring.
2. Several shades of corrector in mint green, pale yellow, violet, and white.
3. A glass beaker in which to mix your new foundation.
4. A skin-care spatula for mixing.
5. An empty foundation bottle in which to pour the finished foundation.
6. Clean paper towels for keeping things tidy.
Select a color of foundation similar to the level of lightness or darkness of your client's skin. At this point, you also need to try to match the client's undertones. Does her face look golden, pink, greenish, or peachy? Look for a similar foundation color. Most custom-blend foundations come with the following additives: yellow, violet, green, or white. You may have to mix two different foundations if the client's coloring falls between the shades of foundation that you are using. Place a little less than two ounces of foundation in the beaker. Remember that you will be adding some color, and you want the finished amount to fit into the bottle.
Test the color on the client's jawline. You want to match the color of the client's neck. A foundation that matches the client's neck will give the most harmonious appearance. We've all seen too many faces that appear to be a completely different color than the person's neck. A sure sign of unprofessional makeup!
Now determine whether the foundation needs correction. If, for example, the client's skin is more golden than your foundation, you would add more gold. This is called intensifying a color. If your client's skin is less golden than your foundation, you want to lessen the amount of gold in the foundation. This is called neutralizing a color. If you add too much color, you can always neutralize it by adding some of the opposite color, easily identified using the color wheel.
• If the client needs less yellow, add violet.
• If the client needs less pink or is covering rosacea, add mint green.
• If the client needs less peach, first add mint, then violet.
This method can be used with translucent powders as well. Most private-label makeup companies offer the tools to custom blend, as well as empty bottles or jars and larger-sized foundation bottles to work from.
So, in review, to intensify a color, add more of the same color; to neutralize, add the opposite.
Special Foundation Needs
Nancy explains that sometimes a person's skin color presents a special problem. For example:
• A person with rosacea needs help managing redness.
• Some clients will naturally have so much golden (yellow) tone that they look sallow.
• Some skin tones have an almost greenish hue that can actually appear unhealthy.
Here are some techniques:
If a person has very red skin, find a foundation that matches the neck (which is usually much less red), and begin by adding mint green to it. The color of the foundation will begin to look dull, but when applied to the face, it neutralizes the unwanted color and gives a calmer, less red appearance.
For someone who is overly yellow, adding violet to a foundation that matches the neck will neutralize the yellow and look beautiful. In this situation, often the neck is yellow as well, so foundation should be used to cover the neck and be well blended at the base of the neck.
Nancy gives us valuable lessons and understanding on skin color analyses and foundation mixing. In today's fast-paced industry, we work with premixed foundations, as well as concealers, tinted primers, and camouflage creams to correct if we are not mixing colors. We also mix these “premixed” foundations together on palettes to get the match needed. You will be mixing and matching on your feet, and working in environments that require you to be time sensitive. You will be doing a practical color analysis of the skin by testing the foundation on the skin at the jawline to see if it matches with the face and the neck. You will be draping your actor wi
th a barber's drape or hairstylist's cape. They come in several colors, but most Makeup Artists use black. If the actor is wearing clothing in a color that is not suitable for the color palette designed for the project or is not good for their skin tone, the drape or cape will help you neutralize this problem and let you see how your color choices are working with the individual's skin tone.
Foundations and Primers
Makeup foundation's cosmetic purpose is to even out skin tone, hide fine lines, and provide a base on which to apply makeup. Foundations also provide added moisture to the skin, protect from the environment, and, with some products, provide a light sunscreen.
Foundation or makeup base comes in a variety of textures and consistencies: tinted moisturizers, liquid, cream, cake, stick, cream to powder, and powder. You can achieve a different level of coverage with each type of foundation. Color, consistency, and coverage will guide you in choosing what foundation to use for different skin types and situations, and if you should or should not use a primer first.
Pro Tip
Remember the three Cs of choosing what foundation to use: color, consistency, and coverage.
Ingredients are another important factor in choosing what foundation to use on the various different skin types you will encounter. Water-based, emollient-based, and mineral-based products are all industry standards and should be part of your kit. In today's industry, skin care has become very important. People pay close attention to the care and condition of their skin and the products that work best for them. You will need to stay current on the latest in skin-care treatments, products, and ingredients.
I encourage everyone to promote their own skin care at home so that we may begin with a proper surface.
—Richard Dean
Primers
Foundation primers even out the texture of the skin, keep the makeup smooth and flawless, add longevity to the makeup, and protect the skin underneath. They also prevent moisture loss. Some Makeup Artists always use a primer to prep the skin before applying foundation. Some use primers only when they decide primers are needed to achieve a certain look or when they are needed to protect the skin. Silicone-based primers are great for sensitive or allergic skin. The silicone used is nontoxic. These primers actually protect the skin from the makeup foundation by putting a barrier between the foundation and skin. This will lessen breakouts in sensitive or allergic skin. Silicone primers also fill in enlarged pores, acne scars, fine lines, and wrinkles. Primers come in violet, green, pink, and yellow tint. These are great to help even out undertones on skin that does not need heavy concealing. All primers are applied before the foundation with a sponge, brush, or hands.
Industry Standards: ColorScience, Laura Mercier Foundation Primer, LORAC, Paula Dorf, smashbox, YSL, MAKE UP FOR EVER.
Note: If you apply primers, foundations, blush, and so on with your hands, you must wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water before and after. Hand application is controversial in the film/television world; not so for print. Many Makeup Artists believe it should not be done under any circumstance, that it is unprofessional and not sanitary. Of course, just as many Makeup Artists believe that it is a valuable technique, especially when working with liquids. Actors are also split on their preference—some love it; others prefer no contact with the skin except with a sponge or brush. If you are working as an additional Makeup Artist for crowd scenes, hand application is not practical because you have too many people to make up.
Foundations
The most popular foundations in the industry are tinted moisturizers, liquids, and cream-based, water-based, emollient-based, and mineral-based foundations. You will need to have all of them in your kit, with a good selection of colors for mixing and matching. This will allow you to handle any skin tone and type. Cake and stick foundations are also used, but not as readily, although they are also found in most makeup kits.
Tinted Moisturizers: Are the sheerest or lightest of coverage, when you do not need a lot of correction. Tinted moisturizers will even out skin tone, and can add just a hint of color if needed. They are great on men, or when you need just a hint of added color on good skin.
Industry Standards: Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, Stila Color Tinted Moisturizer.
Liquid Foundations: Give a sheer overall coverage that looks natural, and are easy to apply with a sponge or brush to get a smooth finish. They are good for all skin types, and are available in water-based, emollient (hydrating), and mineral-based formulas. For oily or sensitive skin, use a water-based foundation. For dry or mature skin, choose a hydrating foundation. Mineral foundations are good with all skin types. Liquids are widely used in the industry, easy to mix, and do not have to be powdered.
Industry Standards: Armani, Bobbi Brown, Chanel, Clinique, Estée Lauder, Iman, M•A•C, MAKE UP FOR EVER, MAKE UP FOR EVER HD High Definition, Revlon ColorStay, Visiora.
Mineral Foundations: Great for sensitive or acne-prone skin. There are fewer ingredients, and because the minerals are inert, they will not support bacteria. They are great for people with allergies and sensitive skin, as well as rosacea. Mineral-based makeup gives long-lasting coverage that does not settle into fine lines or irritate the skin. They should be applied with a sponge or makeup brush. They are available in liquid or powder form. They offer broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, are water resistant, and contain no talc or parabens. They are not tested on animals.
Industry Standards: Bare Escentuals, Glominerals, Illuminaré, Jane Iredale, ColorScience.
Cream Foundations: Usually come in a compact or stick (pan stick). They are wonderful on all skin types and provide excellent coverage. Cream foundations are widely used in all media, and are easily applied with a sponge or brush, providing overall coverage with a rich texture and deep tone. You can achieve different finishes with cream foundations: sheer, more coverage, and layering over a liquid for even more coverage. Layering over a liquid gives you a beautiful and flawless finish, but because it is more product, there could be some film and lighting situations that it would be too heavy for. It is good for all skin types, but best on dry skin. It should be set with powder.
Industry Standards: Black Opal, Bobbi Brown, Cinema Secrets, Gerda Spillmann, Iman, M•A•C, RCMA, Visiora.
Powder Foundations: Great for the two-for-one application. They give a flawless matte finish. Apply with a dry sponge or makeup brush. For more coverage, use a damp sponge to apply. These foundations are not for every skin type, and work best on oily or acne-prone skin, but also work well for normal or combination skin. They are great for quick solutions when there is no time, for on-set touch-ups, and for fast application of color. They are also good in humid conditions.
Industry Standards: Lancôme Dual Finish, M•A•C Studio Fix.
Cream-to-Powder Foundations: Are good for most skin types, but great for combination skin. They should be applied with a dry sponge.
Try: Benefit's Some Kind-a Gorgeous, Vincent Longo Water Canvas Creme-to-Powder Foundation.
Cake Makeup: Comes in the form of a “cake” and is usually applied with a damp sponge. It gives a matte finish. The sponge should not be wet, but damp to get a smooth finish. It is used extensively for stage performers for face painting, clown makeup, fantasy, and body makeup.
Industry Standards: KRYOLAN, Mehron.
Fillers and Mattifying Products: Great to use on bare skin. The fillers are clear or opaque, and fill in fine lines and scars. Fillers can be used on bare skin, under makeup, or over makeup. Mattifiers take down shine, and are great for bare skin, bald heads, and prosthetics.
Industry Standards: Make-Up International Face to Face Supermatte Antishine (comes in light, medium, and dark), Lancôme Pure Focus T-Zone.
Try: Benefit's Dr. Feelgood for smoothing and filling in under or over makeup.
Concealers
Concealers even out skin tone, and cover blemishes, scars, bruising, discoloration, and circles under the eyes. They have a thicker composition than foundation, and are
available in cream, stick, tube, pots, and liquid. Sometimes a concealer is the only product a Makeup Artist needs to even out someone's skin tone (see “Spot Painting” in Chapter 7). You will also use concealers on the body to cover any unattractive marks, bruises, or scars, or to cover tattoos. For the face and body (not the eye area), concealers with a high pigment are best for camouflaging because they provide complete coverage and last longer. You need to blend the concealer well into the skin so that it disappears, especially if you are not using a makeup foundation on the skin. You can apply concealer under or over makeup foundation.
Note that concealers are designed to be applied over the foundation if you are using a liquid or cream base. If you are using a powder or dry foundation, apply the concealer underneath the base. With the exception of dry foundations, most Makeup Artists do both, under and over, when applying concealer. Your choice will become part of your working technique and style. In difficult camouflage situations, you will need to apply both under and over the foundation to get the coverage needed. Try applying concealer both under and over a foundation for effect (Figure 6.3).