A Month by the Sea

by Dervla Murphy

  Boycott, Divestment and Sanctions (BDS) campaign 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Buber, Martin 1

  building industry 1

  Bureij camp 1

  Burns, William 1

  Bush, George W. 1, 2, 3

  Butler, Judith 1, 2

  Butterly, Caoimhe 1

  Cameron, David 1

  car imports 1

  charities 1

  children 1, 2, 3, 4

  Chomsky, Noam 1

  Clinton, Hillary 1, 2

  Cole, David D., Advocacy is not a Gun 1

  construction industry 1

  contacts Abdallah (taxi driver) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  Abdel and family (Jabalya residents) 1

  Aida (English teacher) 1

  Anwar (returnee) 1, 2, 3

  Atef (Cairo returnee) 1, 2

  Ayshah (Jabalya resident) 1, 2

  Deeb (Foreign Affairs mentor) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Dr Moheer (Dean of Medical School) 1, 2

  Elmadhoun family (Cast Lead victims) 1

  Fahd (jobless graduate ) 1

  Fikr Shaltoot (charity director) 1

  Gunnar and Jan (Rafah Gate) 1

  Hanaa (Shatti resident) 1

  al-Hayek family 1

  al-Helou family 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Ibrahim’s family (border killing) 1

  Ibrahim’s family (IDF missile victim) 1

  Ismail (Beit Hanoun resident) 1, 2

  Jamal (student) 1

  Jannath (student) 1, 2

  Kemal (drone experience) 1

  Khalil (PCHR contact) 1

  M— 1

  Mehat (student) 1

  Moh (student) 1

  Mohammed (Rafah camp) 1

  Mrs Halaweh 1

  Murad (returnee from Sweden) 1

  Nabeel (taxi driver) 1

  Naser (IDF victim) 1

  Nita (Khan Younis friend) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Rana (wheelchair victim) 1

  Salim (student) 1

  Samouni family 1

  Sari and Amira (Beit Lahia) 1

  Shujaeya (FO minder) 1

  Suhair (student) 1, 2

  al-Tarabin family (Rafah) 1

  Tom (US volunteer) 1, 2

  Walid (Rafah Gate) 1, 2

  Yara (unhappy mother) 1, 2, 3, 4

  Yaser (jobless graduate) 1

  Zaidan family (Rafah Gate) 1, 2

  contraception 1, 2

  Corrie, Rachel 1

  Dahlan, Mohammed 1

  Dayan, Moshe 1, 2

  Deif, Mohammed 1

  Deir al-Balah camp 1

  Draznin, Andre 1

  education 1, 2 see also schools

  Egypt 1, 2, 3, 4

  elections 1, 2, 3

  Elessi, Dr Khamis 1, 2

  Elmusa, Sharif S. 1

  Epstein, Hedy 1

  Erekat, Saab 1

  Eslemm, Mohammed 1

  European Union Border Assistance Mission (EUBAM) 1, 2

  Falk, Richard 1

  family planning 1, 2

  Farouk, King 1

  Farrell, Stephen 1

  Fatah 1, 2, 3, 4 and Hamas 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Fayyad, Salam 1, 2

  Finkelstein, Norman 1, 2

  First Intifada (1987-93) 1, 2, 3

  fishermen 1, 2

  food aid 1, 2

  football 1, 2

  Foreign Affairs Department 1, 2

  Freedom Flotilla I 1, 2, 3

  Freedom Flotilla II 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Fundamentalism: A Very Short Introduction (Ruthven) 1

  Gaza beaches 1, 2, 3

  Gaza Strip historical cosmopolitanism 1

  history 1, 2, 3

  Israeli withdrawal 1, 2, 3, 4

  Old City 1

  Gazan people 1, 2, 3

  Ging, John 1, 2, 3, 4

  Goldmann, Nahum 1

  Goldstone Report 1, 2, 3, 4

  Greece, and Freedom Flotilla II 1, 2

  Halevy, Ephraim 1

  Hamas activists’ deportation to Lebanon 1

  al-Majd and informers 1

  cabinet members 1

  Charter 1, 2

  and Fatah 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  and foreign NGOs 1

  foreign terrorist entity 1

  and Hizbollah 1

  international isolation 1

  Israel’s assassination campaign 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  and Oslo Accords 1, 2

  pragmatism 1

  and Qassam Brigades 1

  security and public order 1

  supporters 1, 2

  truce renewal offer 1

  weapons imports 1

  Hamzawy, Amr 1

  Hanegbi, Haim 1

  Haniyeh, Ismail 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Harel, Yehudith 1

  health, risks from cousin marriages 1, 2

  health services ambulances 1

  corruption 1

  dialysis 1, 2

  equipment problems 1, 2

  medical supplies 1, 2, 3, 4

  wheelchairs 1

  Holocaust 1, 2

  Holy Land Foundation for Relief

  and Development (HLF) 1

  hospitals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Hurndall, Anthony 1

  Hurndall, Tom 1

  Hussein, King 1

  al-Husseini, Ziad 1

  informers 1, 2

  international law 1

  International Solidarity Movement (ISM) 1

  see also Arrigoni, Vittorio

  Iran 1, 2

  Ireland Bobby Sands 1

  Dublin rally 1

  foreign policy 1, 2

  IRA campaign 1

  Israeli film festival 1, 2

  unmarried mothers 1

  Ishtayeh, Mohammed 1

  Islam 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Islamic Bank for Development 1

  Islamic dress at home 1

  changing customs 1, 2, 3, 4

  and Dervla Murphy 1, 2

  reasons for 1

  in schools 1

  university students 1, 2

  young girls 1

  Islamic Jihad 1, 2

  Islamic Social Institutions (ISIs) 1, 2, 3, 4

  Islamic University of Gaza (IUG) 1, 2, 3, 4

  Israel 1949 boundary with Gaza Strip 1

  assassination campaign 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  and BDS 1

  Brand Israel 1

  and collective punishment 1, 2

  deportations 1

  and Egypt 1

  and Freedom Flotilla activists 1

  Gazan day-workers 1

  Gilad Schalit kidnapping 1

  National Information Directorate 1

  Palestinian agreements 1

  Palestinian citizens in 1, 2

  Palestinian rocket attacks on 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  prisons, Palestinians in 1, 2

  and United States 1, 2, 3

  withdrawal from Gaza 1, 2, 3, 4

  Israeli Defence Forces (IDF) attacks 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

  flotilla killings 1

  house demolitions 1

  and international law 1

  Operation Rainbow 1

  Operation Summer Rain 1

  and poisoned water wells 1, 2

  and security zone 1

  and settler aggression 1

  use of psychological torture 1

  vandalisation 1

  see also Operation Cast Lead

  Israeli settlements 1, 2, 3

  Jabalya camp 1, 2, 3

  al-Jarbawi, Ali 1

  al-Jazeera 1, 2, 3, 4

  Judt, Tony 1

  Karmi, Ghada 1

  Karni crossing 1

  Kerem Shalom crossing 1

  al-Khalidi, Ahmad Samih 1

  Khalidi, Rashid 1

  Khan Younis 1, 2

  Khoza’a village 1, 2

  Kimmerling, Baruch 1

  Klusmire, John 1

  Laor, Yitzhak 1

  Lebanon 1, 2, 3

  Livni, Tzipi 1

  Lock, Shar
yn 1

  al-Mabhuh, Mahmoud 1

  McKee, Andy 1

  Magnes, Judah 1

  al-Majd 1

  al-Maqadmeh, Ibrahim 1

  marriage 1, 2, 3, 4

  media coverage 1, 2

  Medical Aid for Palestinians (MAP) 1

  medical supplies 1, 2, 3, 4

  Medicks, Oren 1

  Medico International 1

  Mer-Khamis, Juliano 1, 2

  Meshaal, Khaled 1, 2

  militias 1, 2

  Milton-Edwards 1

  Mizrahi Jews 1

  Modai, Boaz 1

  Morality Police 1

  Morris, Benny 1, 2

  Morsi, Mohammed 1

  motor vehicle imports 1

  Mujamma 1, 2, 3

  el-Munem, Abd 1

  Muslim Brotherhood 1, 2, 3

  Nacrour, Anis 1

  Nakba Day protest march (2011) 1, 2

  Naksa Day 1

  Narkiss, General 1

  Netanyahu, Benjamin 1, 2, 3, 4

  NGOs 1, 2, 3

  Nussairat camp 1, 2

  Obama, Barack 1

  Ofer, Sami 1

  Olga Appeal 1, 2

  Olmert, Ehud 1

  Operation Cast Lead aim 1

  bomb site 1

  casualties 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  effect on children 1, 2

  foreign helpers 1

  Goldstone Report 1, 2, 3, 4

  hospital attacks 1

  long-term consequences 1, 2

  planning 1

  Samouni family 1

  targets 1

  and US bomb testing 1

  white phosphorus use 1, 2, 3

  Operation Rainbow 1

  Operation Summer Rain 1

  Oslo Accords 1, 2, 3, 4

  Palestine Liberation Organisation (PLO) 1, 2, 3

  Palestine Medical Relief Society 1

  Palestine National Council 1

  Palestine Red Crescent Society (PRCS) 1

  Palestinian Authority (PA) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Palestinian Centre for Human

  Rights (PCHR) 1

  Palestinian Working Woman Society for Development (PWWSD) 1, 2

  Pappé, Ilan 1, 2

  peace process Oslo Accords 1, 2, 3, 4

  Quartet 1

  two-state solution 1, 2, 3

  see also binationalism

  Pearlstein, Steven 1

  Peres, Shimon 1, 2

  Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine (PFLP) 1, 2

  prisoners, in Israeli jails 1, 2

  Qassam Brigades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Quartet peace process 1

  Qumsiyeh, Mazin 1, 2

  Qutb, Sayyed 1

  Rafah camp 1, 2, 3, 4

  Rafah Gate Access and Movement Arrangement 1

  arrival experience 1, 2

  departure experience 1

  Gulf state workers 1, 2

  history 1

  individual stories 1, 2, 3

  Mecca pilgrims 1, 2, 3, 4

  Rafah mosque siege (2009) 1

  al-Rahma Association 1

  al-Rantissi, Abdel Aziz 1, 2, 3

  Rayan, Sheikh Nizar 1

  rocket attacks, on Israel 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Rodinson, Maxime 1

  Rose, Jacqueline, The Question of Zion 1

  Rose, John 1

  Roy, Oliver 1

  Roy, Sara 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Ruthven, Malise, Fundamentalism 1

  Said, Edward 1

  Salafism 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  al-Salah Association 1

  Saoirse, MV 1, 2, 3

  Save the Children Fund 1

  Schalit, Gilad 1, 2

  schools 1, 2, 3

  Second Intifada (2000–05) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Segev, Itshak 1

  Sela, Zvi 1

  sexual harassment 1

  sexual violence 1

  Shaath, Nabli 1, 2

  Shabaan, Dr Naser Abu 1

  Sharon, Ariel 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  al-Shater, Khairat 1

  Shatti camp 1, 2

  Shehade, Salah 1

  al-Shifa hospital 1, 2, 3

  Shulman, David 1

  Siam, Said 1, 2, 3

  Six Day War (June 1967) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  smoking 1

  Sofer, Professor Arnon 1

  sport 1, 2, 3, 4 see also football

  suicide bombings 1, 2, 3, 4

  summer camps 1, 2

  Taraki, Lisa 1

  trees 1

  tunnel economy 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  unemployment 1

  United Nations Palestinian statehood 1, 2

  Relief and Works Agency for

  Palestine Refugees (UNWRA) 1, 2, 3, 4

  Security Council 1

  United States AIPAC 1

  and Egypt 1

  foreign policy 1

  Hamas and Muslim charities 1

  and Ireland 1

  and Israel 1, 2

  and Palestinian Authority 1

  Quartet peace process 1

  al-Wafa Medical Rehabilitation Hospital 1, 2

  Warschawski, Michael 1

  water contamination 1, 2, 3

  West Bank BDS lawsuits 1

  and binationalism 1

  and Gazan refugees 1

  moderation 1

  Palestinian Authority (PA) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Popular Struggle Coordination Committee (PSCC) 1

  Wolfensohn, James 1

  women Gender Resources Centre 1

  honour killings 1

  and Islam 1, 2, 3

  needs of mothers 1

  Palestinian Working Woman Society for Development 1, 2

  relations with men 1, 2

  and sexual harassment 1

  and sexual violence 1

  and smoking 1

  university students 1

  on West Bank 1

  and women’s rights 1

  see also Islamic dress

  World War I 1, 2

  Yassin, Sheikh Ahmed 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  al-Yazuri, Ibrahim 1

  al-Zahar, Mahmoud assassination attempts on 1, 2

  Dervla’s visit 1, 2

  Fatah arrest 1

  Foreign Minister 1

  and Peres 1

  al-Zaim, Mohammed 1

  Zakh, Ruth 1, 2

  Zaytoun district 1

  Zionism 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  ELAND

  61 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL

  Email: info@travelbooks.co.uk

  Eland was started in 1982 to revive great travel books which had fallen out of print. Although the list soon diversified into biography and fiction, all the titles are chosen for their interest in spirit of place.

  One of our readers explained that for him reading an Eland was like listening to an experienced anthropologist at the bar – she’s let her hair down and is telling all the stories that were just too good to go into the textbook. These are books for travellers, and for those who are content to travel in their own minds. They open out our understanding of other cultures, interpret the unknown and reveal different environments as well as celebrating the humour and occasional horrors of travel. We take immense trouble to select only the most readable books and many readers collect the entire series.

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  Copyright

  First print edition published by Eland Publishing Limited

  61 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL in 2013

  This ebook edition first published in 2013

  All rights reserved

  Foreword © Avi Shlaim

  Text © Dervla Murphy

  The right of Dervla Murphy to be identified as author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988

  This ebook is copyright material and mu
st not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly

  ISBN 978–1–78060–028–4

  Cover Image: 12th Century AD, Walls of Gaza II (1994) by Laila Shawa © Laila Shawa, courtesy of October Gallery and Janet

  Rady Fine Art

  Photograph © Jonathan Greet