The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California's Little Saigon
Page 4
HERB NOODLE SALAD
Bún
The herb noodle salad known as bun is a traditional Vietnamese dish. (Note: Bun is also the word for plain rice vermicelli, but in this book we generally use it for herb noodle salad.) On a restaurant menu, there is often a whole section devoted strictly to bun dishes. Bun is often served as its own meal, topped with fresh seafood, grilled meats, and meat pies like cha lua or thit mam. Each geographic region has its own bun recipes. In South Vietnam you will find more seafood-based dishes, for example, while people in Vietnam’s central region love their shrimp variations of bun. The recipe here is for a basic bun with some standard garnishes. You will find a number of recipes with grilled meats and seafood that can or should be served with this basic herb noodle salad. Some other easy and flavorful toppings include fresh shrimp (deveined and cut lengthwise), diced tofu, fresh fish, and more vegetables, like braised eggplant, carrots—whatever you like! Bun is best served in individual bowls; if you make one large, family-style bowl, make sure to serve it quickly so that the herbs do not wilt, or wait until the last minute to add the dipping sauce.
½ pound (approximately 2 small
packages) rice vermicelli
¾ cup fresh mung bean sprouts
½ cup julienned cucumber
½ cup shredded fresh Vietnamese
coriander leaves
½ cup roughly chopped fresh
mint or peppermint leaves
cup roughly chopped fresh
cilantro leaves
½ cup roughly chopped fresh
Thai basil leaves
2 scallions, chopped into rings
¼ cup fried sliced garlic
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup crushed unsalted dryroasted
peanuts
cup dipping sauce (nuoc cham)
1. Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a rolling boil. Turn off the pot and add the vermicelli noodles. Thin rice noodles cook very quickly, so let them sit in the hot water for only 2 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, and set aside to cool in a colander. Or you can fill a bowl with hot tap water and let the noodles sit for 15 minutes before draining. When cooked, the noodles should be soft and will slightly stick together.
2. Divide the noodles into four bowls. Divide the bean sprouts, cucumber, coriander leaves, mint, cilantro, and Thai basil into fourths, and put them on top of each serving of noodles. You can either pile them on top of each other or separate them into individual parts.
3. Garnish the bowls with the scallions, fried garlic, black pepper, and peanuts, and any other toppings you wish.
4. Before serving, pour the dipping sauce over each serving and toss before eating.
[SERVES 4]
BOILED PEANUTS
Ðu Phng
Lightly salted boiled peanuts are considered a wonderful, addictive snack by the Vietnamese. They should be eaten right away because they do not keep for very long.
2 cups raw peanuts, with shells
4 cups water
2 tablespoons salt
1. Wash the peanuts thoroughly in a colander under running warm water. Then soak them in a bowl of cool water for about 15 minutes.
2. Drain the peanuts and put them in a large saucepan. Cover them with the 4 cups of water, and add 1 tablespoon of the salt. On medium heat, let the peanuts cook at a rolling boil for a total of 30 minutes, uncovered. Add another tablespoon of salt after the first 15 minutes of boiling. (The salt is not added all at once because the shells tend to absorb it too quickly.)
3. Drain and serve warm with a bowl to put the shells in.
[MAKES 2 CUPS]
RECIPES
A DRIVE DOWN BOLSA AVENUE
Salads and Soups
THE VIETNAMESE MARKETS
At eight o’clock every morning, seven days a week, crowds of people begin to gather in the grocery stores of Little Saigon, which are scattered along Bolsa Avenue and Westminster Boulevard. More than 2,500 customers will shop at any given market on a weekday; the number increases to 3,500 on a Saturday or Sunday. By evening most markets will have sold all their fresh produce and meats and fish.
Though predominantly Asian, the markets’ customer base represents a mix of people from nearby neighborhoods and cities, with shoppers coming from as far away as Los Angeles and San Diego Counties. For the residents of Little Saigon, the markets are an important source of Vietnamese and other Asian products as well as the place to go for low prices. For the tourist, the markets’ ethnic appeal and diversity of exotic products make them fascinating to explore.
Entering the markets of Little Saigon is like stepping into another country, or at the very least a cultural crossroads. Along the periphery of the stores, local Vietnamese bakeries and tofu and soy makers sell their branded, freshly made goods, and older women sell their homemade simple snacks, such as sticky Vietnamese treats wrapped in banana leaves. You’ll find a whole aisle displaying more than fifty varieties of fish sauce and an adjacent aisle with almost every kind of dried Asian noodle you can imagine. But then you’ll discover Arm & Hammer baking soda boxes stacked among Chinese products like tapioca starch and MSG—a reminder that you are still in America. In the freezer section, vegetarian and soy-based meat substitutes are sold along with Häagen-Dazs ice cream and frozen pizzas. The market is also a good place to find inexpensive and useful tools and equipment for the Vietnamese kitchen including chopsticks, three-tier steamers, plastic mandolines, clay pots, cleavers, and rice bowls.
The markets’ main appeal is the wide array of exotic vegetables, fruits, and herbs that would be unavailable or rarely found in other grocery stores. Almost a third of the space in every market is dedicated to the vegetables, fruits, and herbs section. Some people claim that the quality and quantity of fresh produce in these markets cannot be duplicated anywhere else.
In this chapter you will find recipes that highlight the very best of both the exotic and the more ordinary produce found in these Vietnamese markets. The dishes showcase the Vietnamese reliance on and appreciation for the freshest of herbs and vegetables. Recipes for fresh salads and vegetable consommés (canh) utilize the ingredients found in the produce section of any Little Saigon market. Any of these recipes can be made vegetarian by taking out the meat or fish or, if desired, by substituting tofu.
The Asian supermarket business is extremely competitive, much like the restaurant business in Little Saigon. But the success of the existing markets makes entrepreneurs salivate, so new grocery stores do appear once in a while, with a whole lot of fanfare. Not only do grocers stay competitive by offering the best prices, but they also lure customers with gifts based on the amount spent in the store. Sometimes it’s a bag of rice or some fish sauce—or even a rice cooker for the big spenders.
TRADITIONAL SHREDDED CHICKEN AND CABBAGE SALAD
Gói Gà
Goi ga, regarded as the coleslaw of South Vietnam, is a refreshingly sweet and tangy salad. The chopping and slicing steps to make it may seem laborious, but they’re necessary to let all the ingredients be more evenly coated by the dressing. Note that each part of the salad is dressed separately before the final tossing. There are a number of ways this salad can be expanded, such as by adding boiled shrimp and pork, more cucumber slices, shallots, or other cabbages (except red cabbage). Just make sure you have the dressing perfected—a balance of tangy, sweet, and salty flavors—as it is the clincher to creating the invigorating taste of goi ga. The fish sauce should not be overwhelming. Serve this salad at room temperature.
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 dried Thai bird chile, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sugar
5 tablespoons fish sauce
½ cup paper-thin slices yellow onion
1 head green cabbage (savoy or napa
recommended)
2 medium carrots, peeled
2 chicken breasts (approximately
1 pound total)<
br />
1 medium cucumber, peeled and julienned
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
cilantro leaves
½ cup finely chopped fresh Vietnamese
coriander leaves
¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint
leaves
½ cup crushed lightly salted peanuts
1. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, chopped garlic, sliced chile, sugar, and fish sauce. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Add the sliced onions and set aside.
2. Shred the cabbage and carrots with a mandoline into a large bowl. Pour half of the dressing over the vegetables and let them marinate for at least 15 minutes.
3. Boil the chicken breasts in salted water until fully cooked. Let cool, then shred into thin pieces by hand.
4. Add the chicken, cucumber, cilantro, coriander, and mint to the marinated cabbage and carrots. Add the rest of the dressing and toss. Let the salad sit for about 10 minutes before serving to allow the cabbage to wilt a bit.
5. In a skillet over high heat, toast the crushed peanuts. Add them to the top of the salad as a garnish just before serving.
[SERVES 6]
GREEN PAPAYA SALAD WITH SHRIMP
Gói Ðu Ðú
Not only is this a fragrant salad with herbs and spices, but it is also a great combination of tangy and sweet flavors with the umami taste of shellfish and fish sauce. It takes some effort to julienne a huge papaya, but the dish is worth it. If you can’t find green papaya anywhere, even in a huge Asian supermarket, hard, unripened green mangoes make a good substitute. Traditionally, the dish is served with kho bo, dried seasoned beef similar to jerky but more tender. Besides beef, this salad can be served with a number of other accompaniments such as grilled shrimp or even tofu.
Juice of 1 small lime
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons fish sauce
½ fresh Thai bird chile, finely
chopped
1 tablespoon oil
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 green papaya or 2 green
mangoes
½ cup chopped fresh Vietnamese
coriander leaves
cup plus ¼ cup chopped fresh
Thai basil leaves
pound cooked shrimp, cleaned,
deveined, sliced lengthwise
3 tablespoons finely chopped
unsalted dry-roasted peanuts
1. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, garlic, sugar, fish sauce, and chopped chile. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved.
2. In a small skillet or saucepan, heat the oil. Fry the minced shallots until golden brown. Drain and add to the fish sauce mixture.
3. Julienne the papaya or mangoes into thin, matchstick strips 2 inches long, and place them in a large serving bowl or platter. Pour the dressing all over the strips, evenly coating them. Toss with up of the chopped coriander and cup of the Thai basil.
4. Top the dressed papaya with the cooked shrimp, and garnish with the peanuts, the remaining ¼ cup coriander, and the remaining ¼ cup basil. You can prepare this salad up to an hour before serving, but no longer or the herbs will wilt.
[SERVES 4]
As with most Asian salads, our dressings do not include a generous use of oil. In fact, almost all Vietnamese dressings involve simply a combination of vinegar, sugar, lime, and chile. The julienned and thin-shredded vegetables bring out the natural juices and flavors of many of the salads.
SPICY BEEF SALAD WITH THAI BASIL AND LEMONGRASS
Gói Bò
Don’t be intimidated by the long list of ingredients here. This dish will make any carnivore eager to eat his veggies again. The meat, tender and sweet, is arranged neatly over this salad made lively by Thai basil, mint, sprouts, shallots, onions, cucumbers, and lemongrass. Unlike the chicken goi with cabbage, you do not want to pour the vinaigrette over the salad until just before serving.
¼ cup fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ cup fresh lime juice
½ teaspoons ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon chili paste
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
lemongrass
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced in half rings
7 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 pound top sirloin steak or filet
½ cup roughly chopped fresh Thai
basil leaves
3 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
1 small cucumber, peeled and julienned
½ cup roughly chopped fresh mint
leaves
1 cup fresh mung bean sprouts
¼ cup fried shallots
cup crushed unsalted dry-roasted
peanuts
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the fish sauce, sugar. lime juice, black pepper, salt, chili paste, and lemongrass until the sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a skillet over high heat. When it is hot, add the onions and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, slice the steak into thin. ½-inch slices against the grain. Add the slices to the hot skillet and immediately pour in the fish sauce vinaigrette. Saute the steak, tossing it in the vinaigrette, for just another 2 minutes for rare doneness (or longer as desired).
4. Put the steak and vinaigrette into a medium bowl and set aside.
5. In a large salad bowl, combine the Thai basil, lettuce, cucumber, mint leaves, and bean sprouts. Take about 5 tablespoons of the vinaigrette from the meat, and drizzle it over the salad. Toss well.
6. Put the salad on a large platter and top it with the slices of steak. Drizzle any remaining steak juices and vinaigrette on top. Garnish with the fried shallots and roasted peanuts.
[SERVES 4]
BOBO’S SALAD DRESSING
Bôbô’s Du Gim
Bô is the word for “father,” and growing up we called my dad Bobo. Here is Bobo’s simple dressing for a salad. Think of the salad platter thrown into a bowl. Bobo’s dressing is delicious, balanced, and a perfect vinaigrette.
½ cup rice vinegar
½ cup olive oil
½ onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
½ tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Maggi Seasoning
Sauce
In a small bowl, whisk together the rice vinegar and olive oil. Add the remaining ingredients, whisk together, and let sit for at least 10 minutes. Toss the dressing over any fresh salad.
[MAKES 1¼ CUPS]
There are a few things in Little Saigon that reveal the humble origins of the inhabitants, and the Vietnamese market is certainly one of them. In the early days of Little Saigon, the residents depended on the grocers to feed them cheaply. Food stamps coupled with substantially cheaper goods than those found at large grocery chains provided not only nourishment for many locals, but also a chance to save money and eventually step away from welfare programs. Times are much better in Little Saigon now, though, and many people’s fortunes have turned around.
CABBAGE SOUP WITH GROUND PORK AND SHRIMP
Canh Bp Cái Tht Tom
You probably never gave cabbage much thought, but now, cooking Vietnamese food, you’ll need to. Between cabbage salads and cabbage soups, you can quickly see how versatile an otherwise bland vegetable can be. In this recipe cabbage takes on a satiny texture after being cooked in a flavorful stock with pork and shrimp. This soup is intended to be just a canh—a consommé side dish served as a liquid refreshment—but I can easily consume this soup as a whole meal by itself.
6 cups homemade or purchased
chicken stock
pound fresh shrimp, peeled
and deveined
6 cloves garlic
cup fish sauce
½ tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 large gree
n cabbage, cleaned,
leaves separated
pound lean ground pork
4 scallions, sliced into rings
1. In a large stockpot, bring the chicken stock to a boil.
2. In a food processor. mince the shrimp. garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce together. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl and add the salt and black pepper. Combine thoroughly and set aside.
3. Cut the cabbage into 2-inch strips. Add the cabbage strips and the remaining fish sauce to the boiling chicken stock and cook for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to a simmer.
4. Add the ground pork to the soup, using a fork or whisk to break it up so that it is evenly distributed. You do not want meatballs in the soup.