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The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California's Little Saigon

Page 10

by Ann; Julie Fay Ashborn Le


  The religion of Buddhism, which was originated in India by Siddhartha Gautama—the Buddha—was introduced to Vietnam by Chinese monks during China’s Tang dynasty in the early seventh century. Today more Vietnamese are Buddhists than any other religion. Buddhism is credited with influencing Vietnamese philosophy and ideology, as well as food and diet. The traditions of Buddhism are still evident today in Little Saigon, where there are more than fifty Buddhist temples, monasteries, and worship sanctuaries in a 5-mile area as well as dozens of vegetarian-only restaurants providing exquisite vegetarian meals for both Buddhists and non-Buddhists to enjoy.

  Most temples are ranch-style homes in residential neighborhoods that have been transformed into places of worship. These simpler temples have Buddhist and South Vietnamese flags in the front yard with ornate statues like the Buddha in the backyard. There are just a few ornate temples—such as Chua Hue Quang on West Westminster Avenue, the most famous temple in Little Saigon—that exemplify glorious Buddhist art and architecture, with Japanese roof tiles and elaborately landscaped East Asian gardens. Out-of-town Vietnamese always come to visit these magnificent temples, especially on holidays such as Tet.

  Though temples primarily serve as a place for individuals to worship and to pray for their deceased loved ones and their families, they are also a center for a variety of other community activities for all generations. Parents bring their children to learn the Vietnamese language, Buddhist doctrine and history, as well as Vietnamese culture. Performances with singing, dancing, and skits are given. A young man will be doing tai chi in the garden next to an elderly man twice his age. Children are in the kitchen helping the elderly ladies cook the vegetarian lunch that will be served to anyone wanting a delicious, home-cooked meal. (The meal is free, but a small donation is suggested.) The temples are particularly busy on certain days of the month (depending on the moon) when Buddhists abstain from meat because of fasting.

  The recipes in this chapter are commonly served at any Little Saigon Buddhist temple or vegetarian restaurant. You can create your own recipes by adding or substituting other vegetables and herbs or meat substitutes.

  PAN-FRIED TOFU AND BROCCOLI WITH LEMONGRASS AND CHILE

  Dâu Hú Xào Xã Ót

  One of our easiest recipes, this pan-fried tofu and vegetable dish gives you a rudimentary lesson on how to put together basic ingredients and herbs into a healthy, flavorful meal. The multitalented tofu is a fabulous product, not only for its taste but also for the many ways it can be cooked and served. Besides its health benefits, tofu is the perfect food to soak up every flavor it is cooked with. Be careful not to overcook the broccoli; in Vietnamese cuisine, if you are not eating your veggies fresh, you must at least give them a crunch. You may substitute your own favorite vegetables, or even add chicken or beef for a little bit more protein.

  12 ounces (1 large or 2 small

  packages) firm tofu

  3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  ½ red or green fresh Thai bird

  chile, finely chopped, with seeds

  5 tablespoons fish sauce

  ½ tablespoon sugar

  1 small head broccoli

  ¼ cup olive oil

  1 large yellow onion, sliced in rings

  1 stalk fresh lemongrass, cut into

  1½-inch lengths

  ½ tablespoon ground black

  pepper

  ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

  leaves

  1 scallion, chopped into rings

  1. Cut the tofu into 1x2-inch rectangles (you can cut it into any shape you like, but the minimum size should be 1-inch cubes).

  2. In a separate bowl, combine the garlic, chile and chile seeds, fish sauce, and sugar.

  3. Wash and separate the broccoli and chop into individual florets. You will need 2 cups of broccoli.

  4. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When hot, add the tofu and onion rings and cook for a few minutes. Add the broccoli florets, fish sauce mixture, and lemongrass. Pan-fry for about 8 minutes, until the tofu has browned on all sides and the broccoli is cooked.

  5. Transfer the tofu and broccoli to a serving bowl with the juices from the pan.

  6. Garnish with the black pepper, cilantro, and scallions. Serve with steamed rice or rice vermicelli.

  WIDE RICE NOODLES STIR-FRIED WITH TOFU AND VEGETABLES

  Bún Xào Chay

  Oriental stir-fry noodle dishes are always heavy and delicious because of the amount of oil and fat that goes into their preparation. Vietnamese noodle stir-fries, however, use very little oil. Instead, fish sauce, Maggi sauce, and the juices of the cooked vegetables are used. Not only is this a healthier alternative, it is also much tastier.

  1 8-ounce package thick rice noodles

  (pho or hu tieu noodles)

  ¼ cup fish sauce

  ½ tablespoon sugar

  ½ tablespoon black pepper

  2 scallions, chopped into rings

  1½ tablespoons hoisin sauce

  1 tablespoon Maggi Seasoning Sauce

  3 tablespoons oil

  ½ onion, sliced into rings

  1 large shallot, diced

  5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  ½ fresh Thai bird chile, finely

  chopped

  1 cup roughly chopped fresh broccoli

  ½ cup peeled and shredded carrots

  ½ cup snow peas

  ½ cup fresh mung bean sprouts

  ½ cup canned straw mushrooms

  1 cup (1½-inch cubes) tofu

  ¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves

  ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

  1. Fill a large pot with water and bring the water to a rolling boil. Turn off the heat and add the rice noodles to the pot. Let them sit in the water for just a few minutes to “cook,” and then drain them in a colander. You will need 3 cups of cooked noodles.

  2. In a small bowl, whisk together the fish sauce, sugar, black pepper, scallions, hoisin sauce, and Maggi sauce until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

  3. In a large skillet or wok, heat the oil for about 3 minutes. Begin by cooking the onions and shallots for about 3 minutes. Then add the garlic and chile and cook for another 5 minutes.

  4. Add the broccoli and carrots and cook for a few minutes. When they are slightly soft, add the snow peas, bean sprouts, straw mushrooms, and tofu. Saute and toss frequently as the vegetables and tofu cook for another few minutes.

  5. Toss in the fish sauce mixture when you see the vegetables and tofu are close to being done. Make sure all the vegetables and tofu are well coated with the fish sauce mixture.

  6. Add the rice noodles and toss everything together, making sure all the vegetables and noodles are evenly blended.

  7. Garnish with the mint and cilantro and serve directly from the skillet or wok as a side or main dish.

  VEGETABLES AND TOFU SAUTÉED IN OYSTER SAUCE

  Rau Ci Đu H Xào

  This dish is a fine example of the vegetarian, or chay, dishes available at Little Saigon restaurants and Buddhist temples. Rich in vegetable goodness, it is often served with rice or noodles to soak up the sauce. The tofu adds a nice, meaty texture. This is one of those great recipes where you can create a number of variations by adding or substituting some vegetables, seafood, or meat, but it’s the blend of shallots, garlic, oyster sauce, sugar, and black pepper that needs to stay intact. Oyster sauce is both sweet and salty, blending evenly with the flavors of the vegetables.

  1 large Asian eggplant, peeled and

  cut into 1-inch-thick slices

  3 tablespoons salt

  3 tablespoons olive oil

  2 shallots, diced

  5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  1 cup fresh snow peas

  2 cups fresh Vietnamese water

  spinach

  ¼ cup oyster sauce

  ½ teaspoon sugar

  3 tablespoons fish sauce

  12 ounces (1 large or 2 small

 
packages) firm tofu, diced

  into 1-inch cubes

  1 scallion, chopped into rings

  ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

  ½ cup fresh mung bean sprouts

  1. Disperse the eggplant pieces over a baking sheet. Sprinkle them with 2 tablespoons of the salt, and let sit for 20 minutes to sweat out the bitterness.

  2. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Over medium to high heat, saute the shallots for a few minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 3 minutes.

  3. Rinse the salt from the eggplant pieces, pat them dry, and add them to the skillet. Cook for 15 minutes or until the eggplant is extremely tender.

  4. Add the snow peas, water spinach, and oyster sauce. Stir well. Sprinkle the sugar, fish sauce, and remaining salt over the vegetables and stir. Cook for 8 minutes and then add the tofu and scallions. Cook for another 5 minutes or until the tofu is soft.

  5. Put on a large platter and garnish with the black pepper and bean sprouts. Serve hot with steamed rice or egg noodles.

  SAUTEED BOK CHOY WITH TOFU AND HOISIN SAUCE

  Cái B Trng Xào

  Sautéed bok choy with some tofu and hoisin sauce is delicious and simple to make. Try it with any other vegetables you have around the house.

  2 tablespoons oil

  ½ onion, sliced

  3 garlic gloves, chopped

  ¼ cup hoisin sauce

  3 tablespoons fish sauce

  1 teaspoon salt

  ½ tablespoon sugar

  1 teaspoon ground black pepper

  4 cups roughly chopped bok choy

  2 cups ½-inch cubed tofu

  1. In a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute for 5 minutes.

  2. In a small bowl, combine the hoisin sauce, fish sauce, salt, sugar, and pepper.

  3. Add the bok choy and tofu to the skillet and toss in the hoisin sauce mixture. Continue sautéing for about 5 minutes until the bok choy has wilted. Serve immediately with steamed rice.

  [SERVES 4]

  The Vietnamese traditionally pay great reverence to the graves and markers of their loved ones. Because of their belief that our ancestors are always with us, you’ll find burning incense, flowers, pinwheels, fruit, and even a tape recorder with Buddhist chanting at grave sites in any Vietnamese cemetery.

  SAUTEED MUSTARD GREENS WITH OYSTER SAUCE

  Cái Tàu Xào Dâu Hau

  Mustard greens are resilient vegetables that don’t fall apart when cooked. These hearty leaves have a hint of bitterness, but the sweetness of the oyster sauce is a nice contrast. This is a beautiful and different side dish to serve at an introductory Vietnamese dinner.

  1½ tablespoons oil

  6 cloves garlic, chopped

  ¼ cup oyster sauce

  3 tablespoons fish sauce

  1 teaspoon ground black pepper

  4 cups mustard greens, approximately

  ½ bunch

  2 tablespoons sesame seeds

  1. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chopped garlic and saute for 5 minutes.

  2. Mix together the oyster sauce, fish sauce, and pepper.

  3. Add the mustard greens to the skillet with the oyster sauce mixture and cook for about 5 minutes or until the greens have wilted.

  4. Mix in the sesame seeds and serve hot with steamed rice.

  SAUTEED TOFU WITH OYSTER SAUCE

  Dâu Hú Xào Dâu Hao

  Sautéing tofu is incredibly easy. A number of ingredients can be sauteed with tofu to make for an elaborate dish. However, I appreciate just this simple tofu stir-fry with nothing else but delicious oyster sauce.

  1½ tablespoons oil

  4 cups ¾-inch-cubed tofu

  ¼ cup oyster sauce

  1 teaspoon ground black pepper

  1 teaspoon salt

  1 tablespoon sugar

  3 tablespoons fish sauce

  1. In a medium skillet. heat the oil.

  2. Add the tofu and remaining ingredients one after the other. Toss the tofu gently as the liquid reduces. Cook over medium heat for about 5 to 8 minutes or until the tofu is tender. Serve immediately with its sauce and steamed rice.

  [SERVES 4]

  Spiritual life is an important aspect of Little Saigon, and the way the residents conduct business, interact with one another, and struggle with life in this new country is very much anchored to the church and temple life. Catholicism is another very important religion for the Vietnamese. Introduction to Catholicism occurred with the French colonization in the 1850s. The French and their Christian religion represented Western thoughts and ideas, and many Vietnamese initially converted to Catholicism to demonstrate their faith and loyalty to France. But Catholicism has grown beyond that, and today it is the second-largest religion of the Vietnamese.

  THE VIETNAMESE WEDDING

  When two people fall in love and are ready to be married in a Vietnamese wedding, the wedding date must first be chosen based on the lunar calendar. If they choose an unlucky date, their marriage is doomed.

  The wedding day, which is always a Saturday, starts with a knock on the door of the bride’s family. The groom and his entourage—his wedding party and the most important of his family members—arrive in a procession with edible gifts as an offering to the bride’s family. Placed in tins, the traditional trays of food called trau cau include rice cakes (sticky rice with coconut and mung beans), tea and rice wine, and a whole roasted pig. The bride wears the traditional Vietnamese dress, the ao dai, but for her wedding it is much more elegant and usually red. The groom also wears traditional Vietnamese attire, the male version of the ao dai. At the bride’s house, the groom and his family ask for the hand of the bride, and when both parties agree, they pray at the altar and ask for the blessings of their ancestors. Then the bride and her family are invited to the home of the groom’s parents, because traditionally, in the past, a woman would move into her husband’s family home. At the groom’s house, a light lunch is provided for both families and close friends. Then it’s off to the church or temple for the religious ceremony.

  After the ceremony, there’s a very festive reception at one of the high-end seafood restaurants of Little Saigon. The reception (usually with 300 to 500 guests) cannot start until the most respected elders have arrived. As with any wedding, there is a good deal of eating (including a wedding cake), drinking, dancing, and picture taking. It never fails that at the center of the table rests a bucket of ice, a bottle of midpriced cognac, and a two-liter bottle of Sprite or some kind of cola. The Vietnamese love their cognac, another French import. It’s the only alcohol I’ve ever seen consumed or gifted within our culture.

  During the evening the wedding couple, along with their parents, stop at each table, exchange blessings, and collect gifts from their guests—envelopes with a generous amount of cash. The Vietnamese do not have any concept of a wedding gift registry; cash has always been the traditional gift. The money traditionally helps the couple to purchase their first car or make a down payment on a home. But these days, it’s often used just to pay for the wedding!

  Outdoor wedding luncheon in Saigon, 1959. (This is the informal luncheon before the big wedding reception later in the evening.) My grandma is in the middle with my mother to the left in pigtails.

  VIETNAMESE WATER SPINACH SAUTEED WITH GARLIC

  Rau Muóng Xào Tói

  Vietnamese water spinach is prized for its salty but slight bitter flavor. It melds well with garlic and fish sauce. If you can’t find it in your market, ask if it can be specially ordered. You can substitute spinach or mustard greens; however, this recipe is about the opportunity to sample this exotic green. Add tofu or additional veggies to the recipe if you wish.

  6 cups fresh water spinach

  2 tablespoons fish sauce

  ¼ cup olive oil

  1½ teaspoons sugar

  1 shallot, finely chopped

  5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  1 tablespoon sesame s
eeds

  1 scallion, chopped into rings

  1. Rinse the water spinach and pat it dry. Remove and discard the stems.

  2. In a small bowl, stir together the fish sauce, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and the sugar. Set aside.

  3. In a medium skillet, warm the remaining oil over medium heat. Add the chopped shallot and garlic and saute for a few minutes.

  4. Add the water spinach leaves to the skillet all at once. Toss the greens while they cook for about 3 to 5 minutes. The leaves will shrink as they are cooking.

  5. Next, add the fish sauce mixture to the skillet, pouring it all over the water spinach. Continue tossing for about 3 to 5 minutes so that the spinach is evenly covered with the marinade and the leaves have cooked through or are completely limp. Stir in the sesame seeds and toss to evenly disperse them.

 

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