The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California's Little Saigon
Page 12
6. Serve the fish hot with bun or with plenty of steamed rice, nuoc cham, and the salad platter.
STEAMED TILAPIA WITH GINGER, SCALLIONS, AND ONIONS
Cá Hp Gng Hành
Steaming a whole fish is a way to appreciate a perfect, fresh, and beautiful fish; you are not hiding anything by covering it with a glaze or by pan-frying it in a sauce. For this recipe, the fish can be prepared without the bones, but the cavity needs to be filled with herbs and skewered closed so that the shape is maintained. This recipe is an ideal way to cook a variety of fish; I have enjoyed it with halibut, king mackerel, and sea bass.
3 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup fish sauce
1 fresh Thai bird chile, finely
chopped
1 medium-size piece fresh ginger
(approximately ¼ size of a
palm), peeled and cut into thin
slivers 1½ to 2 inches in length
1½ tablespoons ground black
pepper
1½ tablespoons sugar
7 tablespoons olive oil
½ tablespoon fresh lime juice
5 scallions
½ large yellow onion, cut into thin
slices
1 pound whole tilapia or other flat
fish with firm white flesh
Fresh cilantro
1. To begin, you will need to prepare two marinades, one that the fish will be steamed in and another that will be drizzled over the cooked fish. To make the first marinade, combine in a small bowl 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 3 tablespoons fish sauce, chopped chile, ginger slices, 1 tablespoon black pepper, 1 tablespoon sugar, and ¼ cup oil. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved and the olive oil has emulsified with the soy sauce. Set aside.
2. For the second marinade, whisk together in a separate bowl 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon fish sauce, ½ tablespoon black pepper, ½ tablespoon sugar, 3 tablespoons olive oil, and ½ tablespoon lime juice. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved and the olive oil, soy sauce, and lime juice have emulsified. Set aside.
3. Begin by cleaning the fish, removing the entrails but leaving the bones and skin intact, if the fishmonger has not already done so for you. On each side of the fish, cut three diagonal slashes, evenly spaced and cutting almost halfway to the bone (or cavity if you have deboned the fish).
4. Cut 3 of the scallions into 4-inch pieces. Stuff the scallions and half of the onion slices into the cavity of the fish. Cut the remaining scallions into 2-inch pieces and, with the remaining sliced onions, create a bed for the fish in a shallow, heat-resistant china dish or pie pan.
5. Place the fish in the dish or pie pan over the bed of scallions and onions. Pour the marinade for the steamed fish (it’s the marinade that is larger in quantity) all over the fish, coating it entirely and making sure that the liquid penetrates the flesh through the slashes. Cover and refrigerate for 25 minutes.
6. Prepare the steamer. When the water begins to boil, uncover the fish and place the dish in the steamer. Steam for about 5 to 8 minutes. Check for doneness every few minutes by studying the slits of the fish. The fish should be flaky but firm to the touch, and the flesh should be whitened.
7. Remove the dish from the steamer and immediately drizzle the second marinade over the entire fish. Garnish with the cilantro and serve immediately with steamed rice and the salad platter.
[SERVES 4]
When purchasing a fresh whole fish, clear eyes are not always a sign of freshness. Observe the flesh of the fish, looking for a translucent, not dry or flaky, quality. When in doubt, always ask your friend the fishmonger. If you’re looking for fish steaks or fillets, choose the belly cut, which is mostly marbled in fat. With steaks and fillets it is hard to tell if the fish is fresh, which is why we like to have whole fish, because you can see the freshness in the skin and sometimes the eyes.
HANOI-STYLE FRIED FISH WITH TURMERIC AND DILL
Chá Cá Thng Long
Over a hundred years ago, this dish was introduced for the first time in a restaurant at 14 Cha Ca Street in Hanoi, in an area now known as the Old Quarter. The appeal of cha ca came from its great aste, but also from its elaborate presentation. Clearly intended for those who want to enjoy a long meal, the dish is served with numerous bowls of condiments and sauces. This recipe incorporates dill and turmeric, which are more common in northern Vietnam than in any other region of the country. Another version of this Hanoi dish has the monkfish skewered with thin sugarcane sticks and grilled.
1½ pounds whole monkfish or
other hearty white fish like
mackerel, with skin intact, or
skinless monkfish or mackerel
fillets
1½ teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 scallions, chopped into rings
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1½ cups rice flour
2 bunches of fresh dill, chopped
½ cup sesame seed or peanut oil
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
leaves
½ large onion, sliced into rings
2 cups cooked rice vermicelli
(bun)
INDIVIDUAL BOWLS TO BE SERVED WITH FISH:
½ cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts
cup dipping sauce
¼ cup soy sauce
cup chopped fresh dill
Picked shallots
Pickled carrots
1 lime, quartered
1. Clean the whole fish thoroughly and remove the entrails if your fishmonger has not already done so. On each side of the fish, cut three diagonal, evenly spaced slashes, cutting halfway to the bone. The slashes will allow the herbs and spices to reach the flesh of the fish. Pat fish completely dry and place in a shallow dish.
2. Lightly coat the fish all over with the salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour. (If you decide to cook with fish fillets, cut them into 2-inch cubes and marinate for only 15 minutes.)
3. In a small bowl, combine the fish sauce, ginger, scallions, sugar, and pepper. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the fish from the refrigerator, and rub it all over with the sauce to completely cover it.
4. Sprinkle the turmeric all over the fish, about ½ tablespoon on each side. Cover and refrigerate for another 20 minutes.
5. Fill a shallow dish or large bowl with the rice flour. Take the fish from the marinade and place it in the rice flour to very lightly coat it. If it is easier, you can also lightly sprinkle the rice flour over the fish with your hands and dust off any excess flour.
6. If you are using a whole fish, stuff the inside of the fish with half of the dill. The dill does not need to be entirely inside the fish; much of it can be exposed. For grilling fish pieces, roughly chop one bunch of the fresh dill and toss over the pieces.
7. Meanwhile, in a skillet large enough to fit the fish, heat the oil over high heat. When hot, gently place the fish in the oil. Fry the fish over high heat until it is crispy and golden brown, about 8 minutes on each side. For fish cubes, cook for about 5 to 8 minutes, tossing the fish until evenly cooked and golden brown.
8. While the fish is frying, prepare a bed of the cooked rice vermicelli and remaining dill on a serving platter. Place the cooked fish directly on top.
9. In the hot oil, fry the onions for about 3 minutes. Place them on top of the fish and garnish with the cilantro.
10. Serve the fish hot, with steamed rice, salad platter, and the individual bowls of condiments and sauces. Each person will take large pieces of fish and noodles at one time, then wrap that morsel with herbs and lettuce from the salad platter, and finally dip each bite into nuoc cham.
SALT AND PEPPER FRIED SHRIMP
Tom Rang Mui
Vietnamese wedding receptions are often like seafood banquets. One dish that is a must to serve is this succulent salted and peppered shrimp. Still in it
s shell and with its head intact, the shrimp is pan-fried with black pepper, salt, and garlic in a nice butter bath. Butter is rarely used in Vietnamese food, which is why this is such a decadent dish. The shell is softened to an edible chew, so try eating the whole shrimp with its shell as the Vietnamese do. You will be utterly surprised how flavorful and addictive these shrimp can be. The rice flour and cornstarch give a perfect crunch, and the texture is extraordinary.
1 pound fresh medium shrimp,
with or without heads, but shells
and tails intact
2½ tablespoons salt
4 cups warm water
3 tablespoons rice flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1½ teaspoons ground black
pepper
½ teaspoon sugar
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons oil
3 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, diced
2 scallions, chopped into rings
1 fresh red Thai bird chile,
chopped into rings
1. Clean the shrimp thoroughly. In a medium bowl, dissolve 2 tablespoons of the salt in the 4 cups of water. Soak the shrimp in the salt water for an hour. Then drain and pat dry.
2. In a small bowl, combine the rice flour, cornstarch, pepper, sugar, garlic, and remaining ½ tablespoon of salt. Stir until thoroughly blended.
3. Pour the dry ingredients from the bowl into a plastic or ziplock bag. It should be a large enough bag to fit all the shrimp. Place all the shrimp in the bag and shake so that the flour mixture lightly coats the shrimp. If you’d prefer, you can mix the shrimp with the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.
4. Heat the oil and 2 tablespoons of butter in a wok or large saucepan over high heat. When hot. throw in the shallots, stirring quickly for 5 minutes. Then reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining tablespoon of butter and the red chile.
5. Toss in the flour-coated shrimp and stir quickly for 5 minutes or until they are pink and the flour has browned.
6. Add the scallions, garnish with more black pepper, and serve hot in a large bowl or platter.
GRILLED SHRIMP WITH GARLIC, LEMONGRASS, AND CHILI PASTE
Tom Nng Ti Xã t
Like most other seafoods, when shrimp is grilled on a grill pan or barbecue, it takes on a strong, smoky scent. The smoke brings out the garlic and lemongrass. But alternatively, you can pan-fry or saute the shrimp in the marinade to create a sauce to drizzle over your steamed rice or noodles—preferably an herb noodle salad. Just a little bit of fresh mint is all the accent you need.
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh
lemongrass
5 cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon chili paste
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
½ tablespoon black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped
scallions
½ pound fresh medium shrimp,
peeled, deveined, tails intact
1 medium onion, cut into 6 pieces
and separated
Chopped fresh mint
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemongrass, garlic, chili paste, fish sauce, sugar, olive oil. lime juice, pepper, and scallions until the sugar is dissolved.
2. Add the shrimp to the bowl and toss so that all the shrimp are completely coated with the marinade. Cover the bowl and let it sit for about 15 minutes in the refrigerator.
3. Prepare the grill. While it is heating, skewer the shrimp and onion, alternating between them. Lightly brush with marinade.
4. Place the skewers over the hot grill. Brush again with any remaining marinade. Cook for about 8 to 10 minutes, turning the shrimp over just once. The shrimp are cooked when they have turned pinkish in color and curled slightly.
5. Garnish the shrimp and onion skewers with the chopped mint and serve with nuoc cham as an appetizer. Or serve with rice or bun for a meal.
FRIED SHRIMP WITH SHRIMP PASTE, LEMONGRASS, AND CHILI PASTE
Tom Xào Mm Ruoc Ti t
Fermented shrimp paste has long been popular to flavor soups and braise meats. We take fresh shrimp, add some shrimp paste, and get some of the best umami-tasting dishes. It’s like taking a bite out of the ocean. The briny taste of shrimp, coupled with the lemongrass and light touch of chili paste is something I crave at times. This perfectly balanced dish is accomplished by lightly fryng the shrimp; only then are all the ingredients’ flavors completely revealed.
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh
lemongrass
½ teaspoon chili paste
2 tablespoons fish sauce
½ tablespoon ground black
pepper
½ tablespoon sugar
½ tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped
scallions
½ pound fresh medium shrimp,
peeled, deveined, tails intact
¼ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1½ tablespoons shrimp paste
Chopped fresh Chinese parsley
or plain parsley
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemongrass, chili paste, fish sauce. black pepper, sugar, lime juice, and scallions until the sugar is dissolved.
2. Add the shrimp to the bowl and toss so the marinade completely coats the shrimp. Cover and refrigerate for at least a half hour.
3. In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. When the oil is hot, fry the garlic for about 3 minutes until it is fragrant and golden to dark brown.
4. Remove the shrimp from the marinade; reserve the marinade. Fry the shrimp in the hot oil with the garlic. Cook for about 5 minutes, over high heat, turning the shrimp once. When the shrimp are done, they will have curled and turned pink in color.
5. Discard half of the oil from the skillet and lower the heat to medium.
6. Whisk the shrimp paste into the remaining marinade, and add the mixture to the shrimp in the skillet. Blend the marinade. the shrimp, and the oil, and serve immediately, garnished with parsley. Serve with generous amounts of steamed rice.
FRIED SHRIMP IN TURMERIC AND GARLIC BATTER
Tom Chiên Lang Bt
Vietnamese cuisine does not have a real appetizer course, since the meal is generally served all at once, family-style. When I am in the mood for something a little bit different and would like to make a statement to open a meal, I turn to this simple dish of fried shrimp with garlic and turmeric. It can be served as a simple side dish as well. The turmeric gives the shrimp an almost unnatural bright yellow color, which is quite pleasing and interesting to the eye. The light coating of rice flour gives the shrimp a perfect, light crispiness. You can hardly even call it a batter, which makes it all the more appealing in texture. The shrimp is made even better once it is dipped into nuoc cham or, for a more Western taste, mayonnaise.
1 cup rice flour
1 cup cornstarch
1½ tablespoons ground turmeric
1 medium head garlic, about
10 cloves, separated, peeled,
and finely chopped
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 pound fresh large shrimp,
peeled, deveined, tails intact
1½ cups sesame seed oil
¼ lime
1. In a medium bowl, combine the rice flour, cornstarch, turmeric, garlic, pepper, salt, and sugar. Stir until evenly mixed.
2. In a skillet, heat the sesame seed oil over high heat until it reaches 340 degrees.
3. While the oil is heating, lightly coat the shrimp, one at a time, all over with the rice flour mixture. The shrimp should then be placed directly into the hot oil. Alternatively, you can place the flour mixture in a plastic bag, add all of the shrimp, and shake the bag to give the shrimp an even, light coating.
Make sure you work quickly as you dredge the shrimp in flour and then fry them in the hot oil, as the cornstarch tends to clump if you coat the shrimp too early.
4. Fry the shrimp a few at a time, over high heat, for about 2 minutes on each side, turning the shrimp just once. When done, the shrimp should be golden brown and yellow from the turmeric, and firm to the touch. Transfer the shrimp to drain on paper towels.
5. Squeeze lime over the fried shrimp before serving. Serve hot with nuoc cham.
SNOW PEAS AND SHRIMP SAUTÉED IN GARLIC AND OYSTER SAUCE
Đu Xào Tom
This popular Chinese-style dish is served at most large restaurant banquets or as a simple side dish at home. It is a great entree that combines different flavors: the sweetness of the snow peas, the umami of the shrimp, and the saltiness of the oyster sauce. Substituting tofu for the shrimp turns this into a great vegetarian dish. Long green beans can be substituted if snow peas are not available.
1 cup fresh snow peas
3 tablespoons fish sauce
3 tablespoons oyster sauce