The Fashionista Files

by Karen Robinovitz

  I must have seen Sid and Nancy five times that month. Every time I felt blue, I escaped to 1970s England, and in my dreams I, too, was a whacked-out speed queen with a zonked-out punk boyfriend. That summer I sent away for the first of many Sex Pistols T-shirts. My favorite was a gory one with Sid’s mug that said “Don’t just sit there, do something. Kill somebody, kill yourself.” I felt dangerous even just thinking about wearing it. It felt good.

  JOAN AND MELISSA RIVERS NEVER STOOD A CHANCE

  The Ultimate Spectator Sport MELISSA AND KAREN

  Nothing’s as fun as watching the pre-Oscar red-carpet runway show. It’s the Super Bowl of fashion, and true fashionistas never turn down a chance to show off their chops. That is, by playing Guess Who Designed It with a roomful of friends as an audience. During the 2000 Oscars, the two of us held court as the supreme arbiters of style.

  J.Lo arrived in a see-through pearl-gray chiffon and satin ball-gown. “Versace,” Mel said knowingly.

  “Totally,” Karen agreed.

  She was followed by a beaming Catherine Zeta-Jones in a black beaded number. “It’s got to be a Lacroix!” Karen yelped.

  “But of course!” Mel nodded.

  The next day we found out that la Lopez was actually wearing Chanel, and Mrs. Douglas was in Versace. God knows how many more dresses we got wrong! But it was fun to play Mr. Blackwell as we shared our appreciation for each other’s (we thought at the time) innate knowledge of designer styles. Guessing-the-designer is a fashionista pastime most fashionistas indulge in with other fashionistas. Try it! It’s fun!

  Bjork, the quirky fashionista always carries an egg-shaped purse when wearing a swan.

  As for our Oscar 2000 gown-guessing game, we both were certain obscure designer Bernard Wilhelm was responsible for Björk’s swan song. We shouted Bernard’s name in unison and gave each other high fives in what we thought was a true achievement in the Oscar fashion watch! Especially because Bernard is the type of eccentric designer heralded only in very small—and very varsity— fashionista circles. “Bernard who? How do you know that!” everyone marveled.

  We just shrugged our shoulders and sighed. “Occupational hazard.” We wound up being wrong (obscure designer Marjan Pejoski actually designed it), but boy, was the room impressed at the time!

  STYLE PAGES!

  Do fashionistas read? you may wonder. Well they like to flip through pages, certainly. Books make nice decorative objects, and fashionistas like to collect oversize, glossy coffee-table books about art and design, and off-the-beaten-path, hard-to-find, esoteric magazines.

  High Gloss

  While Vogue, W, Elle, and Bazaar (as well as the UK versions of each) are a part of the required monthly fashionista reading agenda, we are also inspired by more offbeat, underground magazines that represent countercultures—an artful world of innovative photography, undiscovered designers, untapped talent of all kinds, as well as serious fashion and trends, which are shown in an ultramodern light with a touch of irony. These magazines—the more esoteric, the better—are great conversation builders and give insiders something even more insider-y to talk about. The titles to read—or sprawl out on the coffee table—include:

  Arty fashion books that are a platform for grassroots talent as well as established bigwigs. Get V (the magazine version of Vision aire), Dazed & Confused, Spoon, and Big.

  Bulky magazines that showcase innovative, edgy photographers. Get Purple, Face, I-D, Arena.

  For a delicious mix of cultural events, gallery exhibits, insanely cool design, and the latest and greatest products from around the country, buy City magazine, Art Forum (though the specialty here is obviously art), and Flaunt, which is much like an art book in itself.

  Vintage magazines of any kind, especially Vogue, Bazaar, Playboy, and M, which is the now-defunct men’s version of W that was published by Fairchild Publications, publisher of WWD and W, which are now owned by Condé Nast, the behemoth that publishes Vanity Fair, Vogue, Allure, Self, Glamour, The New Yorker, Lucky, and more.

  Any funky Japanese or Eastern European magazine, typically found in serious, highbrow fashion outlets like Colette in Paris and avant-garde boutiques all over the world.

  Groovy home-design “books” like Dwell, Nest, and Wallpaper*, which is known for ultra-art-directed decor shoots styled much like fashion shoots in environments that have been curated to perfection.

  Note: We also love our tabloids. Aside from guilty pleasures like US Weekly and Star, the British mags like Tatler, Hello!, and O.K.! keep us posted on the fashionistas from across the pond.

  SHELF LIFE

  From A to B and Back Again MELISSA

  Sometimes I feel like New York is a party that I arrived at too late. I moved here in 1989 and I feel like I missed out on everything. When I moved to the city, Studio 54 was over, Liza was in rehab, and Andy Warhol was already dead. Why else do people move to New York except to worship at the temple of Andy? The man who had his wig cut at the hairstylist’s? The man who tape-recorded all his conversations? Who made the Polaroid a must-have at any party?

  My favorite book of all time is Bob Colacello’s biography of Andy Warhol, Holy Terror: Andy Warhol Up Close. While I tried to be one of those people who were able to slog through Andy’s bitchy diaries (“Bianca Jagger: major body odor, cab fare to Mudd Club $12”), I was too intimidated by the size of that manuscript. It was a doorstop. I found my copy of Bob’s book in a remainder bin, for $2 (the bargain hunter and the Andy fan in me cheered). I brought it home and devoured the whole thing in one sitting. The book’s philosophy is one that I still adhere to in life.

  For instance, Andy, the perennial celebrity-hound, was always excited whether he was meeting the queen of England or the queens from Fourteenth Street. He treated everyone with the same “gee-aw-shucks” manner. He was starstruck and a social climber. But he never let it get in the way of his fun or his true grit. While he wallowed in the glitzy New York nightlife, he lived with his mother all his life.

  Andy was a true fashionista, with a signature look, a flair for self-parody, and a desire to go out every night. I carried that book like the bible it was. It still makes me nostalgic for a New York I never experienced.

  BOOKED SOLID!

  Here’s your guide to giving your library an air of sophistication:

  Any photography book by Helmut Newton or Richard Avedon, two of fashion’s old greats. Will add luster to your shelves. It’s a classic fashionista must-have. Fake-sign it and say you got it on a shoot.

  Hotel LaChapelle—David LaChapelle’s seminal photographs of transsexuals, errant teens, and bloody naked models partying. Will make you come off as perhaps a little naughty. You can also say you adore Amanda LePore, his “trannie” muse (she’s so pre-Memphis!).

  Visionaire—The premiere status fashion book that comes out four times a year and is always accompanied by something gimmicky (i.e., a Louis Vuitton satchel) and guest-edited by famous fashionista icons such as Philippe Starck, furniture designer extraordinaire, Tom Ford, and Karl Lagerfeld, and is full of contributions from the greatest artists, photographers, writers, filmmakers, and creators of the day. Extraordinarily expensive, therefore good. It comes out in limited numbers, so having one will earn you varsity status (don’t worry—you can buy one online). Each book is more of an art piece, collectible in its own right, and completely ironic, postmodern, genius, gorge, and beyond. A fashionista favorite: The Vreeland Memos no. 37, a compilation of Diana’s memos during her tenure at Vogue. Karen gave this to Mel as a present to celebrate this book deal, and the two of us gave it to our fabulous literary agent for her fiftieth birthday.

  A typography design book. Fashionistas really like fonts. When asked, say something like “Graphic qualities of letters can be very inspiring.”

  The Harvard Guide to Shopping—It will give you a fab pretentious edge. It’s important to know that this tome was written by seminal Dutch architect Rem Koolhass, who designed all the new Prada stores and is a creative
consultant for Condé Nast.

  Diana Vreeland’s autobiography, of course. Who else will tell you “try to be born in Paris if you can arrange it,” wild stories about Jack Nicholson (true or false is really not the point), and gossip-drenched tales of models, designers, and the goings-on at Vogue magazine, where she was editor in chief. To put it in her vernacular: We really do think she’s marvelous.

  Any book that includes Andy Warhol photos. The oversize Andy Warhol Catalogue Raisonne Volume 01 is the best.

  Fashion Today—Collin McDowell’s enormous book, part style guide, part historical overview, that takes you from Christian Dior’s 1947 collection to the current media-embedded industry that fashion has become and meanders through all of fashion’s major trend phases and eras along the way. Also his highly graphic book entitled Manolo Blahnik (subject self-explanatory).

  The collected works of Truman Capote, one of America’s most masterful writers. The author, who always dressed eccentrically, was controversial in his day (1940s and 1950s) for writing about homosexuality, and through the early eighties, served as a literary It boy, avid glam-life consumer, and party circuit regular. The character Dill in To Kill a Mockingbird was actually based on the author’s childhood friend. Don’t feel pressure to actually read these, but do feel pressure to show them off.

  At least one pretentious collection of pages, like Julien d’Y’s Slipcase, a slipcase that contains four booklets designed like travel books. It includes Polaroids, poetry, sketches—the hairstylist’s way of paying homage to the beauty of women and travel. Each is numbered and signed by Julien, who’s tricked out the tresses of Naomi, Kate, Amber, and Linda Evangelista. Limited edition.

  A book that immortalizes Japanimation or graffiti art. Fashionistas like to get inspired from “the street” and all sorts of quirky places.

  Nota Vene Destination Review—Typically available by subscription only, it’s the indie (authors travel anonymously and accept nothing for free) luxe travel guide to the world’s most glamorous cities and the best shops, hotels, and restaurants therein. A hallmark for fashionistas who adore travel, even if it’s only in their minds.

  Vintage books about fashion, style, lifestyle, design, architecture. Good places to source such things are estate sales, auction houses like Sotheby’s and Christie’s, garage sales, and the Internet. In your search, it’s perfectly okay to judge a book by its cover—you probably won’t really read it anyway.

  How to Become Famous in Two Weeks or Less—Written by us! A comic, sly, witty, part memoir, part self-help-infused social commentary depicting the zeitgeist of a culture where anyone can become famous just by being famous. (Sorry! We couldn’t resist!)

  Chic tip: In a bookstore and can’t remember what to get? Pretty much anything published by Taschen and Phaidon, who tend to release the most artful, postmodern (and often ironic) books that, while pricey, evoke the fashionista sensibility.

  TURN THE BEAT AROUND

  Everyone’s Talking About Pop Music MELISSA AND KAREN

  It’s official. Fashionistas don’t always have the best taste in music in the world. Exhibit A: Here’s what we packed for a road trip with our boys.

  Culture Club: The Greatest Hits

  ABC: The Look of Love

  Clay Aiken: The Measure of a Man

  Lionel Richie: Dancing on the Ceiling

  Air Supply: All Out of Love

  Madonna: The Immaculate Collection

  Erasure: Circus

  Justin Timberlake: Justified

  Todd and Mike took one look at our CDs and said, “No way!” There’s something about simple pop music that fashionistas gravitate toward. While we profess to love the latest jungle trip-hop or French lounge music in public, in private it’s all about Shakira. Top 40 music is happy music. We did the lambada. We dig the Macarena. We live “La Vida Loca.” It’s the best music to sing along to and to get dressed to. When we put on Britney’s “One More Time” or Madonna’s “Get into the Groove,” we feel ready to meet the world in our crazy outfits and uncomfortable shoes.

  In college Mel blasted her Billy Joel collection so loudly that she once found an anonymous rude Post-it note taped to her door, complaining about her lack of musical taste. (“If you persist in playing bad Top 40 tunes, at least have the decency to turn it down!”)

  No chance.

  But we did let our boys off the hook and listened to Coldplay during our trip. Hey, we’ve learned to compromise.

  A List of the Kind of Music That

  Will Impress Others and Reveal Your

  Expansive, Worldly Taste

  Buddha Bar Compilation—A groovy mix of acid-jazzy lounge-lizard tunes with a touch of hip-hop. Buddha Bar, FYI, is a trendy Parisian lounge where Kate Moss downed many a complimentary glass of champagne. Good for cocktails at home and smoking fags out the window while writing in your journal.

  Café del Mar—A series of sultry, downtempo, jazz-infused tunes from Ibiza, a favorite fashionista travel destination and the home of fashionista Jade Jagger.

  Costes la Suite—Mixed by Stephane Pompougnac, acclaimed French DJ: Hotel Costes is a five-star French hotel patronized by celebrities and royalty. A smart selection for hanging up a new piece of art you just bought. Get any CD mixed by Pompougnac.

  Room Service, the Standard Hotel Lounge Compilation— A chilled synthesized cocktail of horns, midnight soul, jazz fusion, and lazy drum and bass. The Standard is Andre Balazs’s hip Los Angeles hotel. And the CD is conducive to hot makeout sessions.

  ABBA—Seventies disco lite at its finest. The best thing to come out of Sweden since meatballs. Play it when depressed and you need to connect with your inner dancing queen.

  Junior Vasquez remixes—A favorite of flaming fashionistas and drag queens who did lots of drugs and partied at the Limelight in the eighties and Sound Factory in the nineties. Cue it up with your flaming fashionista friends who like to indulge in drugs that start with the letter X.

  Aimee Mann—Dreamy, sad, girly melodies for when fashionistas feel the need for more “earnest” music. Used during Yves Saint Laurent’s fall 2000 runway show. Good for contemplating unrequited love (“Save me”).

  Peaches—British pop-tart punk rocker who sings naughty lyrics, introduced to fashionistas during Luella Bartley’s runway for spring/summer 2000. Perfect for moments when you need a dose of female empowerment—or to kick some butt. Also, very invigorating music to listen to when you’re cleaning out your closet.

  Best of Blondie—“The Tide Is High” reminds fashionistas of their hoary collegiate days when they were prefab (prefabulous). A nostalgic choice that works well when getting all dressed up (even if you have no place to go).

  Air—Sexy French techno. Used in Sofia Coppola’s Virgin Suicidessound track. Especially good during sensual sessions of fashionista sex, which may not be that sensual at all (fold and hang the clothes, please, before the action begins).

  Tones on Tail—Fashionistas who grew up in the suburbs as misunderstood goths favor this Bauhaus offshoot. To be played after worshiping the Wicca goddesses of the night.

  The Smiths—Fashionistas who grew up in the suburbs as misunderstood geeks favored Morrissey’s claim of celibacy to camouflage their own not-quite-out-of-the-closet status. A wise choice to listen to while cutting or dying your own hair.

  The Sex Pistols—Anarchy is sooo good. Johnny Rotten is major. But does the music have to be so loud and ugly? Only play when you want to break something.

  David Bowie, the earlier years—A mainstay for any record collection. Some things never ch-ch-ch-change.

  Hedwig and the Angry Inch sound track—See film. The two of us have had many dancing-around-the-apartment, belting-out-a-song moments, with John Cameron Mitchell, who starred in the original play and the movie.

  Note: Always look for compilation CDs from top boutique-chic hotels (you can get those online at the hotel Web sites) and highprofile stores around the world. Imported CDs are most impressive, even if you’re stan
ding in front of your mirror and dancing by yourself. Another important fashionista musical accessory: a friend who’s a DJ. If you don’t have one, get one. This person will make you great CDs to enhance your repertoire.

  THE GALLERINA VERSUS THE FASHIONISTA

  Gucci Shoes or a Painting? Such Decisions! KAREN

  If there’s anything fashionistas like as much as clothes and fashion, it’s art that references clothes and fashion. There seems to be a budding trend in the fashion industry of insiders giving up the latest Balenciaga in favor of a painting, a photograph, a lithograph, or some kind of art piece that will endure for more than a season. I have always loved museums and big-name galleries where the work starts at $100,000, and it was only in the last few years that I realized there was a world of emerging artists whose creations are actually affordable. So it was sort of ironic when I bought my first real piece of art in the fall of 1999.

  I was in Paris for Fashion Week for work and falling in love with many, many things I could not afford to buy (no wonder it’s the city of romance): suede Dior gowns, Chloe blousons, Chanel logo boots, and one particular Dries Van Noten sequined gold skirt and dramatic pink silk short-sleeved top with an oversize asymmetrical tie. Strolling through Onward, my favorite store on St. Germain in the Sixth District, the Parisian equivalent to Greenwich Village, for what must have been the one hundredth time, I noticed something new: an art exhibit called “Beautiful People” by a fashion illustrator named Miguel.