Growing at the Speed of Life
Page 10
Per serving: 9 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 1 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 1 g dietary fiber, 106 mg sodium. Exchanges: Free Food
STEAMED MATURE BOK CHOY
As with many vegetables of this type, including Swiss chard, bok choy is best cooked in two stages, since the stalk takes longer than the tender leaf.
SERVES 4
1 large bok choy
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Cut off the bottom of the stalk to separate the stems. Cut the thick white stems from the green leaves. Wash and trim as needed.
Steam the white parts in a steamer basket for 3 minutes, stir, season with half the salt and black pepper, and steam 3 more minutes. Divide among four hot plates and keep warm.
Lay the leaves in the steamer, season with the remaining salt and black pepper, and steam 2 minutes. Lay on the plates with the stems, sprinkle with lemon juice, and serve.
Per serving: 9 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 1 g carbohydrate, 1 g dietary fiber, 106 mg sodium, 4 g protein. Exchanges: Free Food
STIR FRIED BOK CHOY
This can be a warm salad or a side dish for a colorful entrée.
SERVES 4
1 head mature bok choy
1 teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon chopped gingerroot
1 green onion, chopped
1 tablespoon Chinese hoisin or low-sodium
soy sauce
Cut 2 inches off the bottom of the bunch of bok choy and discard. Separate the leaves and stems, and wash carefully. Drain and dry on paper towels. Cut the stems from the leaves. Cut the stems across into ¼-inch slices and the leaves into ¼-inch strips. Keep separate.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Drop in the garlic, ginger, and onion, and cook 30 seconds. Add the bok choy stems and stir-fry 3-5 minutes. Toss in the leaves and cook 1 minute longer. Add the hoisin or soy sauce and stir to coat the bok choy. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 33 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 4 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 235 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Vegetable
Broccoli
Brassica oleracea var. italica
Many of us remember the fuss when President George H. W. Bush admitted to a dislike of broccoli, which only goes to prove that our understanding of what’s important in politics is possibly flawed. I must admit, however, that my wife, Treena, is on his side, taking (for about the first time) a contrary point of view to my preference.
This remarkable plant is an early example of human intervention. According to several sources, the ancient Romans tinkered with a local wild cabbage, native to the eastern coastline of Italy, and came up with the plant we know today.
You’ll find that broccoli seeds are described as early, midseason, and late. It’s a good idea to do two plantings by starting indoors from seed some 8 weeks before the last frost and then transplanting them to flats 2 inches apart when 5 inches tall (about 5 weeks from seed). Then gradually harden them off outside for a week or so before you put them in the raised beds. Repeat the process in late summer for a winter crop. Plants bolt in hot temperatures, so plant in shade if possible or plant for a fall crop.
I’m a great fan of broccoli’s tiny family members, spring raab and broccolini (a cross between broccoli and kai lan, Chinese broccoli), which have very thin stalks and equally small flowering heads. Everything is edible, requiring only 2-4 minutes of steaming time. They have little of the familiar sulfurous aroma and are wonderfully nutritious—well worth the effort to grow, especially as these varieties are somewhat pricey to buy at the supermarket.
The Numbers
The sulforaphame, a key anticancer ingredient, is 30-50 times stronger in spring raab than in broccoli. Both plants also have the other well-proven cancer fighter, indole-3-carbinol.
For each 100 g cooked (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 35 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 7 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 41 mg sodium
Broccoli
Annual/Hardy/Cool Season
Water: Ground level irrigation only
Sun: Partial shade is okay; may need extra shade in hot weather, over 80ºF
Companion Planting:
PRO: Bush beans, beets, carrots, celery, chard, cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes
CON: Pole beans, strawberries
Pests: Aphids, cabbage loopers, cutworms, slugs, weevils, whiteflies
Diseases : Black rot, mildew, clubroot
Soil: Humus-rich, moist, well-drained, sandy loam
Fertilizer: Fish emulsion every 2-3 weeks after buds form
pH: 6.0-7.0
Varieties: Early Dividend (spring ), Green Comet (spring), spring raab
Zones: 3-11
Planting: Spring and autumn, seed ½ inch deep; change planting beds annually; indoors, start 6-10 weeks before last frost, then transplant when 5 inches tall, harden off 10 days, and move to raised beds 14-21 inches apart
Germinate: 7-10 days
Harvest: 78-98 days
Rotation: Avoid following cabbage family
Edible: Heads and stalks
BROCCOLI
Basic Preparation
I really like broccoli, especially when it’s perfectly cooked—the stem just tender and the heads radiantly green. At the last moment, I add fresh basil leaves sliced fine as a garnish, with a spritz of extra-virgin olive oil. Just a touch of sea salt, and I couldn’t be happier. Well, perhaps when I’ve steamed some small heads for just 1-2 minutes, let them cool, then used them as a dipper for hummus lightened up with my yogurt cheese (see page 290) to create a delicious flavor combination!
STEAMED BROCCOLI
It’s been my experience that dislike is usually based on a childhood rebellion and can, as we mature, be easily changed, but when you prepare this dish, be sure that the stalks are softened even though the green darkens. The basil and lemon add a special taste treat to convince the unbeliever.
SERVES 4
1½ pounds broccoli
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Remove the tough bottom of each stalk and discard. Cut off the stalks where they meet the florets. Peel the stalks, cut into ¼-inch diagonal slices, and place in a steamer, or save them and use in a stir-fry or soup if you would rather.
Cut apart the florets and lay them on top of the stems. Season with salt, scatter the basil over top, and sprinkle with lemon juice. Steam 5-7 minutes and serve immediately. I find that 5 minutes will usually be enough time to cook the florets without the stems.
Per serving: 35 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 7 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 180 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable
GREEN ON GREENS WITH GINGER GREEN SAUCE
Here we have an unusual combination of greens with different textures accented by the remarkable ginger sauce.
SERVES 4
FOR THE GREEN SAUCE
2 cups tightly packed fresh spinach leaves
½ cup low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
¼ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
½ teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar or white vinegar
2 teaspoons grated gingerroot
FOR THE VEGETABLES
2 cups sliced green beans (bite-size pieces)
2 cups cut broccoli florets (bite-size pieces)
Extra-virgin olive oil cooking spray
Puree the green sauce ingredients in a blender until the sauce is a vivid green and very smooth.
Steam the green beans and broccoli in a basket about 5 minutes or just until each is bright green and crisp tender.
To serve, drizzle some green sauce on each plate and top with ½ cup each hot green beans and hot broccoli. Spray lightly with the olive oil.
Per
serving: 54 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 8 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 133 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable
BROCCOLI ENDIVE SALAD
This is a good example of a composed salad, one in which each ingredient is carefully placed and not simply tossed together.
SERVES 6
1 pound broccoli florets
¾ cup low-fat French or Italian salad dressing,
divided into ¼ cups (or Treena’s
Vinaigrette, page 74)
1 pound Belgium endive
2 red bell peppers, cut into strips, or 2 cups
tiny tomatoes
1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts
Tip the broccoli into a pot of boiling water to blanch for 1 minute. Turn into a colander in the sink and briefly run under cold water to stop the cooking. Drain thoroughly in the colander, transfer to a bowl, and toss with ¼ cup of the salad dressing.
Cut the cone-shaped core out of the bottom of each endive. The leaves should separate. In a separate bowl, toss gently with another ¼ cup of dressing.
To compose the salad on a platter or on individual plates, lay the endive leaves around the sides. Set the pepper strips (or tomatoes) on the leaves. Place the marinated broccoli in the middle and top with the pine nuts. Drizzle the remaining ¼ cup dressing over all.
Per serving: 96 calories, 3 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 17 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 272 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable, ½ Fat, ½ Carbohydrate
Brussels Sprouts
Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera
The Brussels sprout is another much misunderstood vegetable that often heads the list of most avoided foods, along with tofu and liver!
This is possibly due to the best—or worst—efforts of Anglo-Saxon cooks. As a child, I recall these tight little cabbages being boiled to death (literally!) at my boarding school. They lay there, very pale green and soggy in their salted water, smelling strongly of sulfur. While sprouts can be steamed (never boiled!), I have found that a slow roast will allow for both tenderness and sweetness to be developed to such a degree that it even won over one of our grandchildren, who now actually puts in a request for them.
Remember to pinch off the stem when it reaches 20 inches in height. Then heap soil around the stem (2-3 inches) to hold it up as the sprouts grow. They will mature from the ground up; pick off the leaves first when the sprouts form. Harvest the sprouts when ½ inch in diameter, when they are the sweetest. Brussels sprouts’ bad rep may also be due to missteps when harvesting. The mildest and sweetest flavor is developed after a light frost, which allows plant strength to flow to the buds. Cover with bird netting and avoid handling when the plants are wet and most prone to disease.
The Numbers
Brussels sprouts pack a good measure of vitamin B6, thiamine, and potassium, along with cancer-fighting glucosinolates.
For each 100 g cooked (3.5 oz; ¾ cup): 42 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 8 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 15 mg sodium
Brussels Sprouts
Annual/Cool Season
Water: Regular, moist
Sun: Full
Companion Planting:
PRO: Artichokes, beets, celery, peas, spinach
CON: Kohlrabi, pole beans, strawberries, tomatoes
Pests: Aphids, cabbage, loppers, butterflies, flea beetles, slugs, whiteflies. Use a net to avoid losing buds to small birds.
Diseases: Black rot, mildew, yellows
Soil: Moist, humus-rich, fertile soil, rich sandy loam, or silt loam
Fertilizer: Fish emulsion every 2-3 weeks; avoid excess nitrogen, which causes rapid leaf growth that robs sprout formation
pH: 5.5-6.8
Varieties: Jade Cross hybrid, Valiant (for sweeter, nuttier flavor), Catskill (small size, good autumn harvest)
Zones: 4-7
Planting: Seed ¼-½ inch deep in early summer
Germinate: 3-10 days
Harvest: From seed, 100-110 days; from transplant, 80-90 days
Rotation: Avoid following members of the cabbage family. Don’t plant in same bed for 4 years—just move them around!
Edible: Sprouts (small buds)
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Basic Preparation
No matter which cooking method you choose, prepare the spouts by first stripping off the outer (usually faded) leaves, trim the dried-out stalk flat, and cut a cross (an X) deeply into the stalk (especially for the larger ones). They can be steamed for 8-10 minutes—but never boil them in plain water because they tend to become waterlogged and insipid!
ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Slow roasting tends to concentrate sweetness and can convert nonbelievers with just one taste.
SERVES 4
32 small Brussels sprouts
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 3-inch sprigs rosemary or ½ teaspoon dried, finely chopped
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Peel away any discolored leaves from the Brussels sprouts and trim the stalks. Cut a deep cross into the stalk ends. Combine the oil, garlic, salt, and black pepper, and toss with the prepared sprouts. Place in a small baking dish in a single layer.
Lay the rosemary sprigs on top (or sprinkle with dried rosemary) and roast 20 minutes or until tender. A quick shake halfway through will help them cook more evenly.
Per serving: 55 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 8 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 162 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable
ROSEMARY BRAISED BRUSSELS SPROUTS
This could be the ultimate Brussels sprouts recipe. If you can’t win them over with this, then perhaps you need to move on until someone grows up!
SERVES 4
1 pound smallest possible Brussels sprouts
1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
1 teaspoon dried or a 4-inch branch of fresh rosemary
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon arrowroot or cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon stock or water (slurry)
Preheat the oven to 400ºF.
Strip the outer leaves off the Brussels sprouts. If they are very small, cook whole. Cut in half if they’re larger than ¾ inch in diameter.
Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the rosemary, salt, and prepared sprouts. Bring back to a boil and cook for 3 minutes, then turn everything into a small ovenproof dish and braise for 10 minutes or until just tender.
Stir in the slurry and heat over medium until the sauce is glossy and slightly thickened. Serve with a little sauce spooned over to glisten.
Per serving: 54 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 12 g carbohydrate, 2 g dietary fiber, 187 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable
WARM BRUSSELS SPROUT SALAD
There are times when a warm salad is preferred, such as in the late fall. This is a good example, but it really does need good (expensive) balsamic to be a true success.
SERVES 4
1 (12-ounce) package frozen Brussels sprouts
or 1 pound fresh
1 teaspoon olive oil
½ teaspoon dried thyme or 2 teaspoons fresh
¼ teaspoon caraway seeds
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Trim the sprouts and cut in half; steam in a basket until tender, about 5 minutes.
Warm the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the thyme, caraway seeds, and vinegar. Drop in the steamed sprouts, season with salt and black pepper, and toss to coat well with the sauce, cooking about 2 minutes. Serve immediately while they are still bright green.
Per serving: 61 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g dietary fiber, 169 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable, ½ Fat
Cabbage
Brassica oleracea var. capitata
&nbs
p; I thoroughly enjoy a number of German dishes, and I count as one of my very best friends the great Bavarian master chef Karl Guggennoss, dean of Culinary Studies at Johnson and Wales University, one of the largest chef-training schools in the world.
Chef Guggennoss loves red cabbage, and so do I. But, as I have discovered, I do have my limits. I devoted an entire row of my fledgling garden to red cabbage—one after the other after the other ... Ah, for an occasional greenleafed Savoy cabbage!
To add further complications, a combination of my not-so-well-regulated overhead irrigation and a particularly hot, sunny period caused the heads to split!
If you are an experienced gardener, you will, at this point, be wagging your head back and forth and muttering, “Didn’t he know better?” The answer is, of course, “No. I didn’t.” That’s the kind of thing you learn by mistake during your first year ever!
Apparently their rapid early summer growth (sun plus water) caused the splitting. The water should be on the roots, as in bed irrigation. And should the sun blaze forth next year, then I shall grasp the cabbage, like my chiropractor grabs my head, and give it a gentle half turn to the left (or right) to detach some of the shallow roots and thus slow the growth. If the sun persists, then I’ll create some shade for them.
Whether it is red or green or nearly white, I love the succulent, smooth sweetness of cabbage, especially when paired with sweet onions sautéed with a little olive oil and perhaps a few dill or coriander seeds.
The Numbers
For each 100 g cooked (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 23 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 6 carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 8 mg sodium.