Simple Chinese Cookery
Page 7
3 teaspoons cornflour
300 ml (10 fl oz) groundnut oil or water
1 tablespoon groundnut oil
225 g (8 oz) red or green peppers, cut into 2.5-cm (1-in) pieces
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic
150 ml (5 fl oz) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1½ tablespoons Madras curry paste or powder
2 teaspoons sugar
1½ tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1½ tablespoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon cornflour, blended with 1 tablespoon water
Fresh coriander leaves, to garnish (optional)
1 Put the chicken pieces in a bowl with the egg white, salt, sesame oil and 2 teaspoons of the cornflour and mix well. Put the mixture into the refrigerator for about 20 minutes.
2 If you are using oil for velveting the chicken, heat a wok until very hot and then add the oil. When it is very hot, remove the wok from the heat and immediately add the chicken, stirring vigorously to prevent it sticking. After about 2 minutes, when the chicken turns white, quickly drain it and all of the oil in a stainless steel colander set over a bowl. Discard the oil. If you are using water, do exactly the same but bring the water to the boil in a saucepan before adding the chicken. It will take about 4 minutes to turn white in the water.
3 If you have used the wok, wipe it clean. Heat it until it is very hot, then add the tablespoon of groundnut oil. When it is very hot, add the peppers and garlic and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
4 Add the stock, curry paste or powder, sugar, rice wine or sherry, soy sauce and cornflour mixture. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the drained chicken to the wok and stir-fry for another 2 minutes, coating the chicken thoroughly with the sauce. Serve at once.
Cashew chicken
This exemplifies the Chinese penchant for contrasting textures. Tender, succulent pieces of chicken are combined with sweet, crunchy cashew nuts. The secret to this popular dish is the use of that wonderful technique, velveting, in hot oil or water, which seals in the juices of the chicken, and then stir-frying as a second step to give it that special taste.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes
cooking time: 5–10 minutes
450 g (1 lb) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-cm (½-in) chunks
1 egg white
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons cornflour
300 ml (10 fl oz) groundnut oil or water
2 teaspoons groundnut oil
50 g (2 oz) cashew nuts
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon finely shredded spring onions, to garnish
1 Put the chicken in a bowl with the egg white, salt, sesame oil and cornflour and mix well. Put the mixture in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes.
2 If you are using oil for velveting the chicken, heat a wok until very hot and then add the oil. When it is very hot, remove the wok from the heat and immediately add the chicken, stirring vigorously to prevent it sticking. After about 2 minutes, when the chicken turns white, quickly drain it and all of the oil in a stainless steel colander set over a bowl. Discard the oil. If you are using water (as above), do exactly the same but bring the water to the boil in a saucepan before adding the chicken. It will take about 4 minutes to turn white in the water.
3 If you have used a wok, wipe it clean. Heat it until it is very hot, then add the 2 teaspoons of groundnut oil. Add the cashew nuts and stir-fry them for 1 minute.
4 Add the rice wine or dry sherry and soy sauce. Return the chicken to the wok and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Garnish with the spring onions and serve at once.
Peking duck
This is one of the most admired of all Chinese dishes. Certainly it is the one that captures everyone’s fantasy of great Chinese food. How can one resist rich, succulent duck meat and crispy, crackling skin?
serves 4–6
preparation time: 20 minutes, plus at least 4 hours’ drying
cooking time: 1½ hours
The classic preparation and cooking of Peking duck is an art form. Hot water combined with soy sauce and vinegar is poured over the duck to close the pores, then the bird is hung up to dry. During the drying process, a solution of malt sugar is liberally brushed over the duck, which is then roasted in wood-burning ovens. The result is a shiny, crisp, aromatic bird with beautiful brown skin, moist flesh and no fat.
Preparing Peking duck is a time-consuming task but I have devised a simpler method that gives impressive results, closely approximating the real thing. Just allow yourself plenty of time and the dish will be good enough for an emperor. If possible, use a plump, meaty duck, such as Cherry Valley, which is available from most large supermarkets.
Traditionally Peking duck is served with Chinese pancakes, shredded spring onions and sweet bean sauce. In Hong Kong and the West hoisin sauce is used instead. This is very similar to sweet bean sauce but contains vinegar. Each guest spoons some sauce on to a pancake, then places a helping of crisp skin and meat on top with some spring onion shreds and cucumber sticks. The entire mixture is rolled up in the pancake and then eaten using chopsticks or one’s fingers. It makes an unforgettable dish for a special dinner party.
1 x 2.75 kg (6 lb) duck, fresh or frozen, preferably Cherry Valley
For the honey syrup:
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1.2 litres (2 pints) water
3 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
To serve:
Chinese pancakes (see here)
4 spring onions, finely shredded
1 cucumber, peeled, deseeded and cut into 5 x 2.5-cm (2 x 1-in) pieces
6 tablespoons hoisin sauce or sweet bean sauce
1 If the duck is frozen, thaw it thoroughly. Rinse it well and blot completely dry with kitchen paper. Insert a meat hook near the neck. Combine the ingredients for the honey syrup in a large wok or pan and bring to the boil. Holding the duck up by the meat hook, use a large ladle or spoon to pour the syrup over the duck several times, as if to bathe it, until the skin is completely coated with the mixture. Once used, the mixture can be discarded.
2 Hang the duck to dry in a cool, well-ventilated place, or hang it in front of a cold fan for about 4-5 hours, longer if possible. Be sure to put a tray or roasting tin underneath to catch any drips. Once the duck has dried, the skin will feel like parchment.
3 Pre-heat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9. Place the duck, breast side up, on a roasting rack in a roasting tin. Put 150 ml (5 fl oz) of water into the tin (this will prevent the fat splattering). Now put the duck into the oven and roast it for 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and continue to roast for 1 hour 10 minutes. Replenish the water as necessary.
4 Remove the duck from the oven and let it sit for at least 10 minutes before you carve it. Using a cleaver or a sharp knife, cut the skin and meat into pieces and arrange them on a warm platter. Serve at once, with the Chinese pancakes, spring onions, cucumber and a bowl of hoisin sauce or sweet bean sauce.
Crispy aromatic duck
This is probably one of the best-selling dishes in Chinese restaurants in the West. Although it is available as a ready-cooked meal, nothing beats the home-made version. Don’t be intimidated by the long preparation process. Most of the steps are quite straightforward and can be done up to a day ahead, and the results are well worth the labour. Steaming the duck renders out most of the fat, leaving the meat moist and succulent. The final deep-frying crisps the skin beautifully.
serves 4–6
preparation time: 15 minutes, plus 2 hours’ cooling
cooking time: 2½ hours
1 x 2.75 kg (6 lb) duck, fresh or frozen, preferably Cherry Valley
6 slices of fresh root ginger, 7.5 cm x 5 mm (3 x ¼ in)
6 spring onions, cut into 7.5-cm (3-in) lengths<
br />
Cornflour, plain flour or potato flour for dusting
1.2 litres (2 pints) groundnut oil
For the spice rub:
2 tablespoons five-spice powder
65 g (2½ oz) Sichuan peppercorns
25 g (1 oz) whole black peppercorns
3 tablespoons cumin seeds 200 g (7 oz) rock salt
To serve:
Chinese pancakes (see here)
6 spring onions, finely shredded
Hoisin sauce
1 If the duck is frozen, thaw it thoroughly. Rinse well and blot it completely dry with kitchen paper. Mix all the ingredients for the spice rub together in a small bowl, then rub the duck inside and out with this mixture, applying it evenly. Wrap well in clingfilm and place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
2 After this time, brush any excess spices from the duck. Stuff the ginger and spring onions into the cavity and put the duck on a heatproof plate. Set up a steamer or put a rack into a wok. Fill it with 5 cm (2 in) of water and bring to the boil. Lower the duck and plate into the steamer and cover tightly.
3 Steam gently for 2 hours, pouring off excess fat from time to time. Add more water as necessary. Remove the duck from the steamer and pour off all the liquid. Discard the ginger and spring onions. Leave the duck in a cool place for 2 hours or until it has dried and cooled. At this point the duck can be refrigerated.
4 Just before you are ready to serve it, cut the duck into quarters and dust with cornflour, plain flour or potato flour, shaking off the excess.
5 Heat the oil in a wok or deep-fat fryer. When it is almost smoking, deep-fry the duck quarters in 2 batches. Fry the breasts for about 8–10 minutes and the thighs and legs for about 12–15 minutes, until each quarter is crisp and heated right through.
6 Drain the duck on kitchen paper and leave until cool enough to handle. Then remove the meat from the bones and shred it. You can do this easily with a fork. The Chinese eat it with bones and all. Serve with the Chinese pancakes, spring onions and hoisin sauce.
VEGETABLES and SIDE DISHES
Recipe List
Stir-fried spinach
Stir-fried broccoli
Stir-fried mixed vegetables
Braised Sichuan-style spicy beancurd
Sichuan-style green beans
Chinese pancakes
Perfect steamed rice
Egg-fried rice
Chow mein
Northern-style cold noodles
Singapore noodles
Stir-fried spinach
This is a perfect way of cooking vegetables such as spinach that contain a great deal of moisture. The technique is to place the spinach in a very hot wok and quickly stir-fry with some seasoning. It is that simple to prepare, and may be served hot or cold.
serves 4
preparation time: 15 minutes
cooking time: 7 minutes
675 g (1½ lb) fresh spinach
1 tablespoon groundnut oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 Wash the spinach thoroughly. Remove all the stems, leaving just the leaves.
2 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the garlic and salt. Stir-fry for 10 seconds.
3 Add the spinach and stir-fry for about 2 minutes, until the leaves are thoroughly coated with the oil, garlic and salt.
4 When the spinach has wilted to about one-third of its original size, add the sugar and stir-fry for another 4 minutes. Transfer the spinach to a plate and pour off any excess liquid. Serve immediately.
Stir-fried broccoli
Stir-frying is one of the most appealing cooking techniques for this colourful and extraordinarily nutritious vegetable. The secret of making this simple dish is to add a little water and cover the wok tightly, so the broccoli can cook to perfection.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes
cooking time: 6 minutes
450 g (1 lb) broccoli
1½ tablespoons groundnut oil
4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 Cut the stems off the broccoli and separate the heads into small florets. Peel and slice the stems.
2 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the groundnut oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the garlic, salt and pepper. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, or until the garlic is lightly browned.
3 Add the broccoli and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Now add the water, cover tightly and cook over a high heat for 4–5 minutes.
4 Uncover and test the broccoli by gently piercing it with the tip of a sharp knife; it should go in quite easily. Stir in the sesame oil and stir-fry for 30 seconds, then serve.
Stir-fried mixed vegetables
Stir-fried vegetable dishes should not contain more than four or five types of vegetable and they should be varied – some crisp, like green beans, others leafy, such as spinach. The art of stir-frying vegetables is knowing when to add them to the wok. If you throw them all in at once they can become soggy, regardless of their water content. Put the tougher, more textured ones in the wok first to give them a head start. The amount of cooking water you need to add depends on how much natural water is in the vegetables you are using. Make sure you add only the minimum amount (no more than 1–2 tablespoons) if you are using the wok covered, otherwise the vegetables will over steam and become soggy.
serves 4
preparation time: 15 minutes
cooking time: 7 minutes
225 g (8 oz) Chinese leaves (Peking cabbage)
225 g (8 oz) Chinese greens, such as Chinese flowering cabbage or pak choy, or spinach
225 g (8 oz) asparagus
225 g (8 oz) carrots
1½ tablespoons groundnut oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
2 teaspoons salt
1–2 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 Cut the Chinese leaves into 4-cm (1½-in) strips. Then cut the greens and asparagus into 4-cm (1½-in) pieces. Cut the carrots on the diagonal into slices 5 mm (¼ in) thick.
2 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the groundnut oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the shallots, garlic, ginger and salt and stir-fry for 1 minute.
3 Then add the carrots and asparagus and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the water, cover and cook over a high heat for 2 minutes.
4 Add the Chinese leaves and greens, together with the sugar and rice wine or sherry. Stir-fry for 3 minutes or until the greens are thoroughly wilted. Then add the sesame oil and serve at once.
Braised Sichuan-style spicy beancurd
This traditional dish from Sichuan province in China is becoming popular in the West. Bland but very healthy beancurd is mixed with spicy, fragrant ingredients to produce a sensational dish that is simply mouthwatering. The essence of this recipe lies with the quality of the seasonings and condiments and the care taken in cooking them just right.
serves 4
preparation time: 5 minutes
cooking time: 6 minutes
450 g (1 lb) fresh beancurd
1 tablespoon groundnut oil
1 tablespoon whole yellow bean sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder or cayenne pepper, or to taste
175 ml (6 fl oz) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons cornflour, mixed with 1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon finely ground roasted Sichuan peppercorns (see
here)
1 Gently cut the beancurd into 4-cm (1½-in) cubes.
2 Heat a wok, add the groundnut oil and yellow bean sauce and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the soy sauce and salt and stir-fry for 1 minute.
3 Add the chilli powder and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Then pour in the stock, add the beancurd and simmer for 3 minutes.
4 Finally, stir in the garlic and the cornflour mixture and cook for 1 minute. Ladle the mixture into a serving bowl, sprinkle over the ground Sichuan peppercorns and serve at once.
Sichuan-style green beans
This delectable dish originated in western China, as its seasonings indicate. The traditional recipe calls for Chinese asparagus or long beans but I find green beans equally suitable. They are deep-fried to give them a soft rather than a crunchy texture but they should remain green and not be overcooked. After deep-frying, the beans are stir-fried in an array of spices. They should be slightly oily but if they are too oily for your taste you can blot them with kitchen paper before stir-frying them. For best results, serve the beans as soon as they are cooked. A delicious vegetarian dish.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes
cooking time: 10 minutes
600 ml (1 pint) groundnut oil
450 g (1 lb) green beans, sliced if long; left whole otherwise