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Full Moon over Noah's Ark

Page 36

by Rick Antonson

Great Flood in, 8–9, 182–183, 208

  Noah’s sons in, 211–212

  Black Sea, 28, 31, 31n7, 33–37, 331, 343, 352–353, 358, 359

  Bokova, Irina, 349

  Bosporus, 30–31, 33–37

  British Museum, 17, 18, 19, 20–21, 25, 33, 89–90, 94, 212, 250, 294, 310–311, 316, 317–319, 321–322, 325, 355, 356

  Bryce, James, 166

  Bueler, William, 12

  Buried Book, The (Damrosch), 322, 323

  Bush, George W., 261

  C

  Çaliğa, 223–225

  Camp II, 156–158, 163, 185

  Canada, 261

  Cappadocia, 39, 41

  Casson, Lionel, 323

  Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 110, 111

  Çavuşin, 40–41, 44

  Çavuştepe, 100

  Chaldean Account of Genesis, The (Smith), 315

  Charles (Crockatt), 7, 96, 107–114, 116, 127, 132–135, 138, 143–145, 149, 153–158, 167–179, 182, 186, 188–193, 197, 200–201, 317, 325

  Chivers, Tom, 93

  Christianity, 7, 10, 13, 16n5, 19, 37, 67, 68, 76, 89, 102, 110, 160, 237, 327, 354, 355

  Churchill, Winston, 11n2

  Civilization (Clark), 203

  Clark, Kenneth, 203

  Climbing route, 125

  Conefrey, Mick, 99

  Constantinople, 249

  Cooley, W. D., 66

  Coracle, 92

  Cornea, 182

  Cornuke, Robert, 303–304

  Creation, 16, 16n16, 160

  Cregan-Reid, Vybarr, 250–251, 320

  Crosby, Oliver S., 1, 8, 129–130

  Cummings, Eryl, 103–106, 159

  Cummings, Violet, 103–106

  Cuneiform, 17, 18, 20, 32, 37, 61, 89–90, 93, 246, 249–250, 310–311, 317, 318, 319, 321, 353, 354, 355

  Cyrus Cylinder, 20–21, 310

  Cyrus the Great, 20–21, 37, 314, 316

  D

  Damrosch, David, 322

  Davis, Leslie, 325

  deMyle, Simon, 103

  Descent, 178–197

  Dietrich, Hermann, 129–130

  Dinosaurs, 15–16

  Discovering Gilgamesh (Cregan-Reid), 250–251, 320

  Dobbs, Kildare, 49

  Doğubeyazit, 110, 115–131, 139, 192–193

  Dohuk, 264, 266

  Dubba (Karim, Kaka), 236–237, 239–245, 250–261, 251, 253–255, 263, 265–270

  Durupinar, İlhan, 208

  Durupinar site, 207–212

  E

  Early Ascents of Ararat (Stuart), 120

  Edmunds, Fred, 182

  Epic of Gilgamesh, xv, 18, 44, 59–63, 104, 198, 250, 256, 278, 322

  Erbil, 237–239, 241–242, 260

  Erdoğan, RecepTayyip, 281, 331n19, 359–360

  Euphrates, 15n4, 37, 38

  F

  Fasold, David, 211

  Femmes du Mont Ararat, Les (The Women of Mount Ararat) (film), 82

  Final ascent, 166–178

  Fincke, Jeanette, 318, 319

  Finkel, Irving, 84, 89–91, 92, 93–94

  Fish Lake, 213–232

  Flood. See Great Flood

  “Flood Tablet,” 17–20, 94, 250, 251

  Forbidden Mountain, The (Navarra), 1, 3, 129, 138–141, 176

  Francis, Pope, 16n16, 331n19

  Fraser, Alick, 120

  Frost, Robert, 347

  G

  Genesis, Book of, 8, 14, 16n5, 89, 93, 102n11, 160, 208, 354

  Genocide, 10–12, 11–12, 11n2, 148, 148n14, 325, 328–334, 331n19

  George, Andrew, 322

  Giil, Muslim, 292–293, 296–298

  Giosan, Liviu, 31

  Gladstone, William, 251

  Goran (Jovanovic), 7, 96, 114–119, 127, 128, 132–138, 144–163, 167–182, 186, 187–202, 203–206, 213, 325

  Göreme Open Air Museum, 44, 59

  Great Ascents: A Narrative of Mountaineering (Newby), 103

  Greater Armenia, 49, 67, 72, 75–77, 111, 162, 354

  Greater Kurdistan, 76, 80–81, 348

  Great Flood, 8–9, 13–15, 14n4, 59–61, 102

  Gregory the Illuminator, 334

  Gufa, 92

  Gulf War, 234

  H

  Hamd, Iyshyeh, 252

  Hamid, 299, 302, 304–307

  Haydarpaşa Station, 31, 31n8

  Hilabja, 254

  Hitler, Adolph, 11n2 Holy Cross Cathedral, 110, 111

  Hussein, Saddam, 24, 68, 240–241, 252, 261

  I

  Ian (Moffat), 6, 96, 107–119, 127, 132, 135, 138, 143–158, 164, 166–179, 181–194, 197, 200–206, 211, 213, 326

  Ibraheem, Khaleel Border Complex, 266, 267

  Ice Age, 34

  Iran, 21, 32, 97–98, n124. See also Tehran

  Iraq, 20, 197–198, 233–263, 349

  Irwin, James, 8, 159–161

  Isfahan Hotel, 121–123, 132, 203, 212, 229

  Ishak Pasha Palace, 201, 204, 326

  Isidore of Seville, 16

  Islam, 7, 13, 37, 110, 212, 267n17, 281, 355, 358

  Islamic State (ISIS), 248n16, 267n17, 348

  Istanbul, 31, 31n8

  J

  Jabbar, Ali, 68, 237, 239, 241–242, 244, 253, 264–265

  Jabbar, Andam, 21, 24, 231–232, 237, 351

  Jabbar, Gulie, 23–25, 237, 253

  Jabbar, Hemin, 236–238, 241–242, 244–245, 256, 259–260, 264, 266, 268–270

  Jabbar, Huner, 237, 244–245, 253, 256, 258–260, 268–270

  Jabbar, Taha, 22–25, 39, 232, 234, 237–238, 241, 243, 251, 253, 351

  Japheth (son of Noah), 211–212

  Journey to Ararat (Parrot), 66

  Judaism, 12, 13, 37, 67, 68, 148, 354, 355

  K

  Kamelia, 299, 301–302, 304–307

  Khader, Khasyeh, 237

  Khanjian, Arsinée, 147–149, 149n14, 151, 359

  Khodzko, Iosif, 7, 95

  Khor Virap, xviii, 327, 333, 334

  Kissinger, Henry, 349

  Klein, Joe, 68

  Koran. See Qur’an

  Kubi (guide), 117–119, 126, 128, 130, 133–135, 145, 147, 152, 154, 155, 158–162, 164, 166–178, 184–185, 325

  Kurczy, Stephen, 350

  Kurdistan, 22, 22n6, 76, 81, 234, 261, 348

  Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK), 80–83

  Kurds, 76, 97–98, 101, 254

  Kuyunjik, 246

  L

  Lake Van, 29, 56, 72, 74, 75, 78, 96, 100, 107, 109, 111, 268, 287, 295, 296, 303

  Land of Ararat, The; Or Up the Roof of the World (Macdonald), xiv

  Last Glacial Period, 34

  Layard, Austen Henry, 18, 246, 248–249, 321–322

  Lemkin, Raphael, 11n2

  Lesser Ararat, 9, 124, 326, 345

  Libraries in the Ancient World (Casson), 323

  Library of Nineveh, 18, 20, 245, 246–249, 247n15, 318–319, 323

  Life (magazine), 209, 358

  Lost Mountains of Noah, The (Cornuke), 303

  M

  MacGregor, Neil, 294, 311

  Maxwell, Gavin, 264

  Merling, David, 211

  Mesopotamia, 14, 37, 38, 72, 245

  Middle East, as concept, 67–68

  Mona, 299–302, 304–307

  Monastery of St. Jacob, 65, 65n9

  Montgomery, John, 103–104, 106

  Moon landing, 159, 160

  Morgenthau, Henry, 11–12, 325, 330

  Mother of the World, 326

  Mountain of Pain, 10, 153

  Mountain sickness, 182

  Mountains of Ararat, 9, 37, 61, 101, 103

  Mountains of the World (Bueler), 12

  Mount Ararat, 345

  Agri Dagh, 10, 30, 64, 153

  in Bible, 9

  The Forbidden Mountain, 1

  height of, 4

  history of, 7–8

  Irwin on, 159–161

  names of, 9–10

  rigors of, 12–13


  in Stuart, 119–121

  in Turkish culture, 9–10

  in Urartu, 71

  Mount Cudi, 276, 278

  Mount Erciyes, 50

  Mount Nimush, 61, 256, 279

  Mount Nisir, 256

  Mount Sabalan, 279, 303, 304

  Movement of Free Women of Kurdistan, 82

  Muslim. See Islam

  N

  Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic, 118n12

  National Museum of Iran, 310–312

  Navarra, Fernand, 1, 3, 8, 125, 132, 138–142, 141n13, 176

  Newby, Eric, 103, 119

  Nico (Vanderstoop), 99–102, 108–117, 126–138, 143–146, 153–155, 166, 191, 197–206, 212–220, 222–226, 326

  Nimrud, 248, 248n16, 349

  Nineveh, 18, 20, 245, 246–249, 247n15, 318–319, 323

  Nineveh and Its Remains (Layard), 321–322

  Noah, 8–9, 18, 211–212

  Noah’s Ark

  accounts of, 15–17

  in Bible, 8–9, 182–183, 208

  directions for constructing, 90–91

  in Finkel, 89–91

  history of, 13–15

  in recent exploration history, 7–8

  site claiming to be, 204–212

  in Torah, 15, 37, 89, 94, 102, 208, 278, 354

  Noah’s Ark: Fact or Fable (Cummings), 103–104

  Noah’s Ark: I Touched It (Navarra), 142

  Noah’s Ark Ministries International (NAMI), 350

  Noah’s Ark National Park, 211, 359

  Noah’s Pudding, 57–58

  Nomads, 136–137, 196

  North West Palace of Ashurnasirpal, 349

  Nûh, 10, 14, 35, 37, 104, 212, 276, 355, 361

  O

  Oceangoing vessels, 105

  Olearius, Adam, 115

  Oval boat, 92

  P

  Pahlavi, Mohammad Reza, 313

  Paraşut, 16, 94, 122, 142, 350

  Parrot, Friedrich, 7, 65–66, 94, 120, 143, 316, 328

  Parrot Glacier, 138–139, 161

  Patricia (Ristich), 7, 88, 94–102, 107–117, 127–138, 143–158, 167–193, 197, 200–206, 213, 214–218, 221–226, 325

  Pearson, Lester, 261

  People’s Defense Units (YPD), 83

  Persia, 21

  Persian Gulf, 37

  Peshmerga, 24, 253, 254, 348

  “Phantom Ark,” 209

  “Photo Vage,” 338, 341, 345, 351

  Pir Omar Gudrun, 256

  Pittman, Walter, 35–36

  PKK. See Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)

  Plain of Araxes, 134

  Plath, Sylvia, 195

  Pleistocene Ice Age, 34

  Plimer, Ian, 211

  Polo, Marco, 49, 203

  Pokr Vedi, 334, 338

  Pope Francis, 16n16, 331n19

  Protestant Reformation, 16n16

  Q

  Quest for Noah’s Ark, The (Montgomery), 106

  Qur’an, 14, 35, 37, 47, 94, 102, 104, 276, 278, 355

  R

  Ramadan, 74, 132, 221, 225, 245, 251, 257–258, 287

  Rassam, Hormuzd, 18, 248, 249

  Rawlinson, Henry, 250

  Reed Shaken by the Wind, A (Maxwell), 264

  Reformation, 16n16

  Rich, Claudius, 247

  Riquer, Jean de, 139, 140

  Roskovitsky, Vladimir, 104–106

  Rumî, Mevlâna Jelaleddin, 40, 47, 48

  Russia, 36, 65, 101, 104. See also Soviet Union, Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR)

  Ryan, William, 35–36, 37

  S

  Salter, James, 153

  Sarihan, Reşit, 207–208, 209

  Sennacherib, 246–247

  Seslitaş, 223–225

  Shah, 313

  Shajarian, Mohammad-Reza, 309–310

  Sharoyan, Peter, 95

  Sheep, 189–192

  Shi’ites, 68

  Silk Road, 203

  Simmonds, Douglas, 90

  Smith, George, 18, 249–251, 315, 319–321, 324

  Solo Faces (Salter), 153

  Song of Travel and Other Verses (Stevenson), 233

  Soviet Union, 2, n139. See also Russia, Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR)

  Stevenson, Robert Louis, 233

  Strother, Robert S., 320–321

  Stuart, Robert, 7, 119–121, 136

  Sulimaniyah, 256–258

  Sumeria, 17

  Sumerians, 14, 17, 59

  Summit, 177–178

  Sunnis, 68

  Surp Haç, 110, 111

  T

  Tabriz, 129, 300, 302

  Tatvan, 29–32, 49, 51, 55, 56, 58, 64, 69, 70, 72–73, 79, 96, 109, 268, 276, 277, 280, 282, 283, 284, 286, 287, 288, 290, 291, 295, 297, 298, 300

  Taylor, Jonathan, 32–33, 317, 321–323

  Tehran, 32–33, 289, 295, 299–301, 302, 305, 306–310, 313, 315, 326

  Thursby, Walter, 120, 121

  Tigris River, 15, 20, 37, 38, 245, 246, 256, 267

  Tillman, H. W., 184

  Todd, Douglas, 16n5

  Torah, 15, 37, 89, 94, 102, 208, 278, 354

  Trans-Asia Express, 32, 193, 289, 294–314

  Transcaucasia and Ararat (Bryce), 166

  Turkey

  Armenian Genocide and, 10–12, 148, 148n14

  Iran and, 97–98

  Kurdistan Workers’ Party and, 80–83

  Mount Ararat in culture of, 9–10

  Turkish Bath, 198

  Two Mountains and a River (Tillman), 184

  U

  Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR), 2, n139. See also Russia, Soviet Union

  United States of America, 22, 115, 133, 205, 209, 229, 233, 260–261, 300, 331, 358–359

  Urartu, 71, 72, 162, 303, 329

  Urarat, 329

  Ussher, James, 15

  Utnapishtim, 18, 19, 59, 61, 94, 250, 256, 353

  V

  Van (city of), 23, 29–30, 32, 64, 71–76, 78–80, 84–86, 96–97, 100–101, 107, 109–112, 116–119, 149, 192–193, 201, 230–231, 291–292, 294–297, 303

  Van Castle, 116

  Van Cats, 107

  Van Gölü Express, 55–64

  Vision, 182

  von Abich, Hermann, 329

  Voyages and Travels of the Ambassadors, The (Olearius), 115

  W

  Wargehe Delal, 266–267, 267n17

  Whirling Dervishes, 46–48

  Wilson, Woodrow, 326, 331–332

  Women, 69–83

  “Women of Ararat,” 82

  Woolley, Leonard, xvii, 102n11, 350–351

  World Order (Kissinger), 349

  World War I, 12, 22

  Wounds of Armenia (Abovian), 329

  Wyatt, Ronald, 209, 350

  Y

  Yezidis, 267n17

  YPD. See People’s Defense Units (YPD)

  Z

  Zafer (guide), 4–5, 13, 85–88, 94–102, 106–122, 126, 128, 134–135, 168, 196, 201, 203–206, 210–212, 230

  Zagros Mountains, 256

  Zargaryan, Tigran, 328–331

  Zoroaster, 21

  ALSO AVAILABLE FROM RICK ANTONSON AND SKYHORSE PUBLISHING

  “In the magical-travel-names department, Timbuktu undoubtedly holds the trump card—Marrakesh, Kathmandu, or Zanzibar are mere runners-up—but Rick Antonson’s trek to the fabled desert city proves that dreamtime destinations are found in our minds just as much as on our maps.”

  —Tony Wheeler, co-founder of Lonely Planet and author of Bad Lands: A Tourist on the Axis of Evil

  “Great characters, great stories, and truly great adventures. Not to mention … a great read.”

  —Peter Greenberg, Travel Editor, CBS News

  “The remarkable combination of Rick Antonson exploring the ancient mysteries of Timbuktu matched with the rich culture of Mali that he captures so well … makes a page-turner from start to finish. Rick’s underlying story confirms my own experience in that amazing land.�


  —Jerry W. Bird, editor, Africa Travel Magazine

  Timbuktu’s most famous landmarks are three mosques. This minaret has been often remudded since its creation hundreds of years ago. The mosques have been cited as “unique earthen architecture. “

  An Excerpt from

  To Timbuktu for a Haircut

  INTRODUCTION

  Touch a Map of the World

  WHEN I WAS A BOY, EVERY OCCASION MY FATHER left the house was important. I and my older brother would pester him: “Where are you going, Daddy? Where? To work? To church? To the store?” And in the vernacular of the day, or perhaps with a flippancy meant to silence us, he would say what I believed to be the truth: “I’m going to Timbuktu to get my hair cut.”

  So began my own feeble notions of travel. With the irrefutable logic of a child, I understood that one day I, too, must go to Timbuktu and get my hair cut. After all, how far could it be?

  Fifty years later, a world away, I walked a path among mud homes as old as time, baked by a dry heat that choked my breathing. It was impossible to tell the sand from the dust unless you stood on it. A young boy was setting up a chair with a missing leg in front of his parents’ house. Sand piled by the doorway, nudged there by desert winds that pushed relentlessly through these village streets. His left foot suddenly slipped over the edge of the path’s centre ditch. The slip almost caused him to fall into the shallow sewer. He noticed me as he regained his balance, and I stopped and looked into his eyes. We were only a metre apart. The youngster, maybe five years old, stared down my greeting. His eyes widened in a glare of determination. He crossed his dusty arms and clasped each defiant shoulder with a scraped hand. Sand and drool encrusted his lips in loose granules. The rose colour of his tongue showed and he did not smile. I felt like the first white man he’d ever seen, and not a welcome visitor. His face proclaimed his proud independence. He knew that whatever had lured me to travel there was hollow. But he did not know that I was looking for a shop where I could get my hair cut.

  It was my wife’s idea. I had time available for being away the coming January, all of it, and Janice didn’t. For half a year we’d talked about my taking a solo journey. But her interest began to fade when the topic of “what I’ll do” reared its head. We were in Prague to hear the International Olympic Committee’s decision naming the host destination for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games. My colleagues and I had launched Canada’s Vancouver-Whistler bid six years earlier and were now part of the Canadian delegation. Janice and I arrived in the Czech Republic two days in advance, near midnight. In search of a late dinner, we walked on the cobblestones of the Charles Bridge, looking into the dark waters that flowed beneath. The roadway led us to an open but near-empty restaurant, where our lives were unexpectedly changed within minutes. While waiting for our grilled chicken over pasta we talked about the bid and then anything but the bid.

  My wont at such times was to compile a mental list of projects I could accomplish within a month. Friends had suggested everything from a long walk to a short sailing voyage; my family advised a month’s vow of silence in a Tibetan monastery. It must change you, people said; you’ll come back better for the time away. Whatever you do, don’t stay home and do chores.

 

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