The Story of Sushi: An Unlikely Saga of Raw Fish and Rice
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invention of, 81–82
California Sushi Academy (CSA), 50–51, 315
classes at. See Lekic, Zoran; specific topics
first day of session at, 3–9
first women at, 55–58
founding of, 4, 55
graduation formalities at, 302–3
California Sushi Academy (CSA),
graduation requirements at, 6–7
lunch counter worked by students at, 123–24, 131, 139–41, 175–77, 231, 287–88
student body at, 4–6
tests at, 124, 125–27, 164, 166–68, 171, 240, 259–63, 292, 301, 302
carp, 30
Carver, Roy, 162–63
Catalina Offshore Products, 281
cephalopods, 232–38, 242
Chicago, sushi restaurants in, 46, 133, 134
China, 83, 241
original form of sushi in, 29–30
sashimi in, 149
chopsticks, 26, 77, 152, 272, 321, 322
chutoro (medium fatty tuna), 246, 248, 256
clams, 28, 67, 319
giant or horse (mirugai), 240–44
collagen, 116–17, 225, 233
column peel (katsura-muki), 8, 150–51, 259–60
comb style, 93
conveyor-belt sushi (kaiten-zushi), 54, 57, 58, 63, 79
cooking, 146
collagen and, 116–17
eel, 229–31
flavor development and, 117–18
grilling mackerel, 113, 116, 118–19
kaiseki-style appetizers, 75–76, 77, 79–81
searing, 148
simmering in broth, 98
tamago yaki (sweet egg omelet), 124–25
crunchy rolls, 88
crustaceans. See also shrimp
flavor development in, 138
as prey for other sea creatures, 143, 182, 187, 236
cucumber rolls (kappa-maki), 86–87, 95, 304
cucumbers, cutting, 8, 17
customers. See also ordering
educating about sushi, 99–101, 134–35, 193
at sushi bars, etiquette guide for, 317–22
sushi chefs’ interactions with, 12, 27, 48–50, 54, 70, 71, 102–3, 123, 124, 139, 169–71, 312, 313, 322
cytochromes, 194
D
dashi, 21, 22–23, 84, 280
Dean, Howard, 132
Do, Memphis, Tenn., 57
Drew-Baker, Kathleen, 83
E
ebi or kuruma-ebi (cooked shrimp), 136–39
Edo, 161. See also Tokyo
sushi in, 64–66, 77–78
Edomae-sushi, 65–67
eels, 66, 188, 202, 225–31
cooking, 229–31
freshwater (unagi), 225, 227–28
mating of, 226, 227
migrations of, 226–27, 228
saltwater (anago), 225, 228–31
eel sauce, 230–31
egg omelet, sweet (tamago yaki), 124–25
Eigiku, Los Angeles, 46
engawa (adductor muscle of flatfish), 209, 210
enzymes:
in fish, 28, 29, 145–46, 194, 249–50
in Miora, 39
in mold, 14–15, 22
Europe, sushi restaurants in, 57–58, 63
F
fermented fish paste, 28–29
fillet techniques, 146–48, 203–4, 210–11, 252
fingers, eating sushi with, 26, 65, 321
fish:
circulatory systems of, 114–15, 246
decline in numbers of, 237, 251
evolution of, 114, 116, 180, 201–2, 207–8, 233
filleting, 146–48, 203–4, 210–11, 252
flavor elements in, 117–18
freezing, 179–80, 248–49
gills of, 190, 191, 246, 247
gutting and cleaning, 113–15, 119, 142, 190
Japanese names for parts of, 142
migrations of, 145, 180–81, 182, 194, 226–27, 228
muscles of, 145–46, 193–94, 204, 209, 210, 233, 247, 249–50
neta as term for, 89–90
preserving, 28–30, 149
purchasing, 107–12
scales of, 154–55, 189, 191, 200–202, 210, 226
three basic categories of, 154
fishy aromas, 144–45
five-piece breakdown (go-mai oroshi), 147, 210, 252
flatfish (hirame and karei), 206–12
adductor muscle of (engawa), 209, 210
evolution of, 207–8
filleting, 210–12
Japanese love of, 208–9
flavors, fundamental, 23. See also umami
Fleischman, Mark, 56–57
flounder, 154, 183, 194, 197, 206. See also flatfish
starry, 207, 208
food poisoning, 153, 161
franchise operations, 133
freezing fish, 179–80, 248–49
“fresh kill” sushi, 250
Freud, Sigmund, 226
funa-zushi (old style of sushi with carp), 30
futo-maki (big rolls), 27, 95, 159
G
garum, 29
geishas, 154
Genghis Khan, 30
geoducks (mirugai), 240–44
geta (rectangular stand), 320
Gilbert, Nikki, 57
gills, 190, 191, 246, 247
ginger, pickled, 26, 277, 320, 321
gizzard shad (kohada), 66, 154
glass eels, 226, 227
glutamate, 15, 16, 21, 22–23, 84, 117, 118, 242, 250
glycine, 117, 118, 138, 195
glycinin, 15
glycogen, 249–50
go-mai oroshi (five-piece breakdown), 147, 210, 252
gourd shavings, 67
Great Kanto Earthquake (1923), 66
Greece, ancient, 82, 225
green tea, 53
Griffith, Tracy, 55–57
grilling, 113, 116, 118–19
grocery stores, sushi in, 133, 134
gunkan (“battleship” sushi), 281
gutting fish, 113–15, 119, 142, 190
H
hako-zushi (box sushi), 156
halfbeak, 154
halibut. See flatfish
hamachi, 198. See also yellowtail
Hama Hermosa, Hermosa Beach, 4, 6, 22, 58, 96, 102–7, 120–22, 169–71, 214–15, 221, 264–74, 294
daily staff meeting at, 42–43
decline and closing of, 43, 50, 101, 121, 239, 281, 294
last night at, 288–91
Monday student lunch counter at, 123–24, 131, 139–41, 175–77, 231, 287–88
rice preparation at, 33, 36–40, 41–42
Hama Venice, Venice Beach, 4, 43, 48–50, 99, 121
Hanaya, Yohei, 65, 77–78
handedness, sashimi arrangements and, 152
hand rolls (te-maki), 24
haya-zushi (“quick sushi”), 31, 64–65
heads of fish (atama), 190, 192, 193
health concerns, 26–27, 47
herring, 155
hikari mono (“shiny things”), 154–55
hirame. See flatfish
horse mackerel, 154
hoso-maki (thin rolls), 86–87, 95
hydrolyzed vegetable protein, 23, 24
I
ika (squid), 233, 235–38, 290
Ikeda, Kikunae, 22–23
ikura (salmon eggs), 278–79, 281
Imaizumi, Teruo, 295
IMP (inosine monophosphate), 22, 23, 84, 117–18, 228, 280
Indica rices, 37
inside-out rolls (ura-maki), 81–82, 85–86, 88, 95, 97, 158, 159
International Marine Products, Los
Angeles, 109–11
J
jabara (“snake’s stomach;” cut of tuna), 247
Jackson, Phil, 4
Japanese culture, preservation of, 100, 134–35, 295
Japanese immigrants, in Los Angeles, 44–46
Japanese Restaurant News, 134
Japanese tourists, 88
Japonica rices, 37, 294
Johnson, Tim, 295
K
kaiseki (courtly Japanese cuisine), 76, 77, 79–81
kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi), 54, 57, 58, 63, 79
Kamehachi, Chicago, 46
Kanai, Noritoshi, 45, 47, 295
kanpachi, 200. See also yellowtail
Kapika, 34
kappa-maki (cucumber rolls), 86–87, 95, 304
karei. See flatfish
katsura-muki (column peel), 8, 150–51, 259–60
Kawafuku, Los Angeles, 45, 46
kelp, 21, 23, 38, 204, 280
“kelp flavor,” 39
Kenefick, Jack and Arbie, 312–14
knives, 7–9, 36, 166
cutting sushi rolls with, 85–86
sharpening, 7, 8–9, 94, 171, 176, 177, 184, 196, 197, 205, 206
kohada (gizzard shad), 66, 154
konbu (kelp), 21, 23
Korea, 83, 149
kori-kori (texture), 208–9
kosher dietary rules, 202, 226
Koshihikari, 38
krill, 143, 182, 183, 189
Kruse, Fie, 42, 57–58, 102, 104, 120–22, 169–70, 214, 315
kuruma-ebi (cooked shrimp), 136–39
Kyoto, 146, 198
sushi in, 40, 41, 64, 142
L
lactic acid, 15, 29, 31, 264
Lake Biwa, 30
Lancet, 53
laver, 83–84, 87
Lekic, Zoran, 6–9, 13, 21, 36, 40, 41–42, 59, 75–77, 123, 213, 259, 260, 264, 292, 293, 302, 309, 315
catered events and, 24, 68, 69, 71, 75
cooking techniques and, 75–76, 77, 79–80, 81, 98, 113, 116, 118–19, 124–25
cucumber and radish cutting and, 8, 17, 150–51
departure of, 175, 186, 218, 231, 240, 268, 277, 278, 288
eels and, 228–31
fillet techniques and, 146–48, 203–4, 210–11
fish purchasing and, 107–12
flatfish and, 206–12
gutting, cleaning, and grilling mackerel and, 113–16, 118–19
knife care and, 7–9, 166, 205, 206
mackerel sushi and sashimi and, 142, 144, 153–57
mirugai (giant clams or geoducks) and, 240–44
nigiri making and, 24, 89–91, 195
octopus and, 232–35
salmon sushi and sashimi and, 178, 181–85
sashimi presentation and, 151–52
sea bream and, 186–96
shrimp preparation and, 136–39
special rolls and, 157, 158–59, 163
squid and, 235–38
student lunch counter and, 123, 131, 176
sushi rolls and, 81, 85–88, 94–96, 97, 125–27
tuna and, 245–46, 248–49, 252–57
working at sushi bar, 102–4, 106–7, 169–71, 216–17, 265, 267–69
yellowtail and, 197–205
lingo of sushi chefs, 277
liver, 211
lobsters, 136
Los Angeles, Japanese restaurants in. See also specific restaurants
history of, 44–47, 99–101
M
MacArthur, Douglas, 66
mackerel (saba), 113–19, 153–57, 187, 188, 194, 200, 237, 251
cutting for sushi and sashimi, 153–57
filleting, 146–48
grilling, 113, 116, 118–19
gutting and cleaning, 113–15, 119
marinating, 142–46, 183
parasites in, 143–44, 179
scombroid poisoning and, 153
skin and scales of, 154–56
maguro. See tuna
marinating, 142–46, 183
Mashita, Ichiro, 82
Matsuhisa, Nobu, 99
meat. See beef
Mekong River, 28, 29
menus, 319
mercury contamination, 252–53
Michite, Katsu, 48, 49, 294
Midwest, sushi restaurants in, 131–34
migrations, 145, 194
of eels, 226–27, 228
of salmon, 180–81, 182
Miora, 39, 41–42
mirugai (giant clam, geoduck, or horse clam), 240–44
miso, production of, 13–16
miso soup, 21, 76
Miyako Oriental Foods, 13–17
mold, 29
bonito infected with, 22
in miso and soy sauce production, 13–15, 17
MSG (monosodium glutamate), 23, 39
mullet, 67
Murray, Kate, 3–13, 17, 21, 23–24, 51, 59, 80, 87, 91, 93, 95–98, 164, 165, 178, 183, 185, 186, 190–93, 201, 202, 210–13, 229, 230, 232, 235, 237–38, 243, 244, 256–57, 265–68, 277, 278, 289–90, 292–93
background of, 10–12
catered events and, 62, 63, 69–71, 75, 86
creative roll devised by, 157, 159, 163, 164, 167, 171
first day of, at CSA, 3–9
knives of, 8–9, 171, 176, 177, 184, 196, 197, 201, 205, 206, 212, 240
last day of, at CSA, 301–5
mackerel classes and, 113–14, 115, 119, 146–48, 153–57, 164
student lunch counter and, 123–24, 140, 141, 175–76, 177, 231, 287–88
tests and, 125–27, 258–63
working as sushi chef, 309–15
working at Hama Hermosa during regular hours, 216–17, 221
muscles, 145–46
adductor, of flatfish (engawa), 209, 210
after death, 249–50
fast-twitch and slow-twitch fibers in, 193–94, 204, 247
of octopus and squid, 233
mushrooms, 67
mussels, 30
Mutual Trading Company, 45, 47, 295
myoglobin, 194, 251, 254
N
Nakano, Sekio, 77–78
namagiri (wave cut), 233, 235
nama-nari or nama-nare (fermented mixture of fish and rice), 30
namasu (raw meat), 149–50
nama tako (raw octopus), 234
nare-zushi (original form of sushi), 30, 264
NBC, 49
neta (toppings for nigiri or fillings for sushi rolls), 89–91
origin and uses of term, 89–90
slicing, 90–91
wrapping, 204
neta tray, as size unit, 90, 253
New York, sushi restaurants in, 46, 101
nigiri, 24, 26, 83, 85, 89–93, 95, 136, 317. See also specific toppings
adjusting to customer’s needs, 272–73
cutting fish for, 90–91
eating in one bite, 26, 322
eating with fingers, 26, 65, 272, 321
history of, 65–67, 77–79
in Japan vs. America, 96–97
neta as term for toppings for, 89–90
robot-pressed rice in, 63–64, 67–68, 70, 92
shapes of, 93
squeezing techniques for, 91–93, 195, 261–63, 266, 270–74, 278
in takeout boxes, 65, 78–79
Niiyama, Katsuo, 36
nikiri (chef’s “house” soy sauce), 22, 23, 320
Nippon, New York, 46
Nishimura, Tomomi (known as Tororin), 105
Nishio, Takumi, 60–61, 94, 102–7, 126, 127, 139, 152, 186, 201, 211, 231, 302, 303, 315
background of, 105–6
catered events and, 63, 68, 69, 71, 217–20, 282–83
creative roll devised by, 158–60, 163, 164–65, 167, 168
fish head soup made by, 190, 192, 193
Italian cuisine and, 104, 105–7, 140, 301
nigiri-squeezing practiced by, 270–74, 278
rice prepared by, 33, 36–40, 41–42
working at sushi bar, 216, 268, 269, 288–91
Nitta, Jeffrey, 99–101, 131–32, 134–35, 165, 177, 258, 309, 315
nori, 82–85, 87, 277, 281
crispness of, 95
in hand rolls, 24
laver growing and, 83–84
making
of, 82–83
in sushi rolls, 82, 85, 86, 95, 159
Noto Sushi, London, 58
Nozawa, Kazunori, 103
O
occupied Japan, 66–67, 79
Ocean Fresh, Los Angeles, 111–12
ocean perch, 187
octopus (tako), 232–35, 237
Okamoto, Kanoko, 11–12
okimari (“it’s been decided;” ordering option), 318
Oki Ton Japanese Bistro, San Diego, 312–14
okonomi (“as I like it;” ordering option), 318–19, 320
omakase (“I leave it up to you;” ordering option), 76, 77, 80, 98, 101, 102–3, 113, 287–88, 318, 319, 320
One Woman Sushi (Yuyama), 53–54
Ono, Jiro, 40–41, 232, 234, 272, 279, 319
ordering, 318–20
in America vs. Japan, 96–97
omakase and, 76, 77, 80, 98, 101, 102–3, 113, 287–88, 318, 319, 320
order in which dishes are prepared, 94–95
Osho, Los Angeles, 46
toro (very fatty tuna), 246, 247
Otsuka Chemical Industry Corporation, 39
overfishing, 237, 251
P
Paramount Pictures, catered event at, 24, 32, 60–64, 67–71, 75, 81, 86, 139
parasites, 143–44, 149, 178–80, 198, 254
PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls), 182–83, 199
perilla leaves (shiso), 151, 322
pin bones, 155, 184
Pine Sushi, Edo (Tokyo), 78
plaice. See flatfish
prawns, 136
presentation, 95, 97, 98, 118, 122, 124, 151–52, 238
preserving fish, 28–30, 149
prices, 100, 101, 319
protease, 39
puffer fish, 67
Q
“quick sushi” (haya-zushi), 31, 64–65
R
radishes, 160, 235
cutting, 17, 150–51, 259–60
shredded, as garnish, 150, 322
red tides, 242
Rehermann, Frank, 295–96
rice, 28, 33–42, 76. See also sushi rice
brown, 34, 35
cooking, 39–40, 277
drying, 38
enriched with vitamins, 34, 35
grown in California, 294, 295–96
milling process for, 34–35
in miso and soy sauce production, 14–17
rinsing, 33–34, 36, 178
sake never served with, 76
species and varieties of, 37, 38
spiritual beliefs about, 36–37
white, nutritional value of, 35
during World War II and occupation, 66–67
rice vinegar:
invention of, 31, 96
production of, 17
in sushi rice, 31, 38, 39, 40, 41
rigor mortis, 250
Rika’s, Los Angeles, 57
robots, sushi-making, 63–64, 67–68, 70
Roman Empire, 29, 82, 226
Rudie, Dave, 280–81
Russia, caviar trade in, 279
S
saba. See mackerel
sake, 31, 38, 76–77, 178, 278
salmon (sake or shake), 112, 155, 178–85, 187, 194, 237, 251