Focus
Page 47
Eisner, Lisa, and Toman Alonso. “The Trouble with Bon.” New York Times Magazine, February 12, 2006, 68.
Ellenzweig, Allen. The Homoerotic Photograph. New York: Columbia University Press, 1992.
Emerson, Gloria. “Avedon Photographs a Harsh Vietnam.” New York Times, May 9, 1971, 52.
Ephron, Nora. “The Big Name Photographers: Bert Stern.” New York Post, July 20, 1965.
———. “The Big Name Photographers: Richard Avedon.” New York Post, July 19, 1965.
Esten, John. Man Ray: Bazaar Years. New York: Rizzoli, 1988.
Ewing, William A. The Photographic Art of Hoyningen-Huené. New York: Rizzoli, 1986.
Ewing, William A., and Marina Schinz. Blumenfeld Photographs: A Passion for Beauty. New York: Harry Abrams, 1996.
Felsenthal, Carol. Citizen Newhouse: Portrait of a Media Merchant. New York: Seven Stories Press, 1998.
Finke, Jack Anson. “Pro.Files: The Great Graphic Innovators.” U&lc, March 1977.
Fraser, Kennedy. On the Edge: Images from 100 Years of Vogue. New York: Random House, 1992.
Fried, Stephen. “Fashion’s Dark King.” Vanity Fair, August 1994, 109–24.
———. Thing of Beauty. New York: Pocket Books, 1993.
Friedman, Bruce Jay. “The Imposing Proportions of Jean Shrimpton.” Esquire, April 1965, 70–73.
Frissell, Toni. Untitled manuscript for an autobiography.
Garner, Philippe. “The Most Underrated Photographers of the Last 30 Years.” American Photos, November/December 2006, 61, 89, 102.
Garrat, Sheryl. “I’m a Photography Junkie.” Observer, September 3, 2000, 3.
Goldberg, Vicki. “The Hidden Versailles.” New York Times Magazine, September 20, 1981, 15–19.
———. “Richard Avedon’s Own True West.” New York, September 16, 1985.
Gopnik, Adam. “Postscript: Richard Avedon.” New Yorker, October 11, 2004.
Gross, Amy. “Turbeville: An Interview.” Vogue, December 1981, 335.
Gross, Michael. “Madonna’s Magician.” New York, October 12, 1992, 28–36.
———. Model: The Ugly Business of Beautful Women. New York: William Morrow, 1995.
———. “New Fashion Ads: The Provocative Sells.” New York Times, April 19, 1986, 52.
———. “Paris When It Dithers.” New York, April 11, 1988, 35–38.
———. “Possession.” Manhattan Inc., June 1985, 92–95.
———. Rogues’ Gallery: The Secret History of the Moguls and the Money That Made the Metropolitan Museum. New York: Broadway Books, 2009.
Grundberg, Andy. Brodovitch. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1989.
Haden-Guest, Anthony. “The Return of Guy Bourdin.” New Yorker, November 7, 1994, 136–46.
———. “Richard Avedon: The Big Apple’s Big A.” Sunday Times Magazine, September 26, 1993, 46, 49.
Halebian, Carol. “The Bert Stern Story.” Camera 35, March 1979, 28–53.
Halpert, Peter Hay. “Bruce Weber: Photographer.” American Photo, May/June 1998, 48.
Harrison, Martin. Appearances: Fashion Photography Since 1945. New York: Rizzoli, 1991.
Helburn, William. Seventh and Madison. London: Thames & Hudson, 2014.
Heller, Karen. “An Elle of a Life.” American Photographer, April 1988, 34–45.
Hodenfield, Jan. “Richard Avedon: The Art of the Camera.” New York Post, September 20, 1975, 20.
Holson, Laura M. “The Naughty Knave of Fashion’s Court.” New York Times, March 2, 2012.
Huston, Anjelica. A Story Lately Told. New York: Scribner, 2013.
Hyde, Nina. “Fashion Notes.” Washington Post, October 1, 1978, F3.
The Image Makers: Deborah Turbeville. February 6, 2012. http://www.style.com/stylefile/2012/02/the-image-makers-deborah-turbeville/.
Jacobs, Laura. “Everyone Fell for Suzy.” Vanity Fair, May 2006.
Jobey, Liz. “Last Tango in Paris.” Independent, April 25, 1993.
Kamp, David. “It All Started Here.” GQ, October 2007, 343–55.
Kazanjian, Dodie, and Calvin Tomkins. Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1995.
Kent, Allegra. Once a Dancer . . . New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1997.
Klemesrud, Judy. “The Evening Hours.” New York Times, November 5, 1982, B8.
Kramer, Hilton. “The Dubious Art of Fashion Photography.” New York Times, December 28, 1975, 100.
Kronstadt, Sylvia. “Mad Men, Bad Women: A Summer in the ’60s New York Ad World.” Kronstantinople, March 2012. http://kronstantinople.blogspot.com/2012/03/mad-men-bad-women-my-summer-in-new-york.html.
LaBruce, Bruce. “Terry Richardson, 1998.” Index, 1998. http://www.indexmagazine.com/interviews/terry_richardson.shtml.
Lerman, Leo. The Grand Surprise: The Journals of Leo Lerman. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2007.
Lipsky-Karasz, Elisa. “Memo Pad: Franca’s Code.” WWD, December 10, 2008, 3.
Lisanti, Tom. Pamela Tiffin: Hollywood to Rome, 1961–1974. Jefferson, NC: McFarland, 2015.
Livingston, Jane. The New York School: Photographs, 1936–1963. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 1992.
Lockwood, Lisa. “Fashion Advertising: Controversy—Where Has It Gone?” WWD, July 28, 2014.
“The Lowest Moments in Advertising.” Adweek, June 9, 2003, 38.
Macintyre, Ben. “Every Picture Tells a Story.” Times (London), March 18, 1995.
Madison, Jennifer. “She’s a Politician; I’m a Stylist!” Daily Mail, April 13, 2011.
Maier, Thomas. Newhouse: All the Glitter, Power, and Glory of America’s Richest Media Empire and the Secretive Man Behind It. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1994.
Man Ray: In Fashion. New York: International Center of Photography, 1990.
The Man Who Shot Beautiful Women: Erwin Blumenfeld. Directed by Nick Watson. 2013.
McClure, Richard. “Relentless Paeans to Perfection.” Financial Times, November 17, 1997, 15.
McKenna, Kristine. “Beyond the Ads . . . Obsession.” Los Angeles Times, May 26, 1991, C5.
Menkes, Suzy. “Dour Take on Fashion Photos.” International Herald Tribune, May 4, 2004.
Michener, Charles. “The Avedon Look.” Newsweek, October 16, 1978, 58.
Miller, Joshua L. “A Striking Addiction to Reality: Nothing Personal and the Legacy of the Photo-Text Genre.” In James Baldwin Now, by Dwight A. McBride. New York: NYU Press, 1999, 346.
Mirabella, Grace. In and Out of Vogue. New York: Doubleday, 1995.
Morgan, Ted. “ ‘I’m the Biggest Model, Period.’ ” New York Times Magazine, August 17, 1975.
Muir, Robin. “All Is Finally Revealed.” Independent on Sunday, March 31, 2002, 12.
Newton, Helmut. Autobiography. New York: Nan A. Talese/Doubleday, 2002.
O’Hagan, Sean. “Good Clean Fun?” Guardian, October 16, 2004.
Penn, Irving. Passage. New York: Alfred A. Knopf/Callaway, 1991.
Purcell, Kerry William. Alexey Brodovitch. London: Phaidon, 2002.
———. “Ballet.” In Ballet, by Alexey Brodovitch. New York: Errata Editions, 2011.
Ray, Man. Self Portrait. Boston: New York Graphic Society Books, 1963.
Reed, Paula. Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1970s. London: Conran Octopus, 2012.
Reichert, Tom. The Erotic History of Advertising. Amherst, NY: Prometheus, 2003.
Remington, R. Roger, and Barbara J. Hodik. Nine Pioneers in American Graphic Design. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 1989.
Rensberger, Boyce. “Amphetamines Used by a Physician to Lift Moods of Famous Patients.” New York Times, December 1, 1972, 1.
———. “Two Doctors Here Known to Users as Sources of Amphetamines.” New York Times, March 25, 1973, 48.
Reynolds, Charles. “Focus on Alexey Brodovitch.” Popular Photography, December 1961, 80.
Richard Avedon: Darkness and Light. Directed by Helen Whitney. 2002.
Richardson, Bob. Bob Richardson. Bologna: Damiani
, 2007.
Richardson, Terry. Damiani, 2004. https://www.damianieditore.com/en-US/product/69.
Rowlands, Penelope. A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters. New York: Atria Books, 2005.
Sanders, Mark, Phil Poynter, and Robin Derrick. The Impossible Image. London: Phaidon Press, 2000.
Saner, Emine. “A Tasteless Line in Battledress from Vogue.” Guardian, September 24, 2007, 3.
Sargeant, Winthrop. “A Woman Entering a Taxi in the Rain.” New Yorker, November 8, 1958, 49–84.
Seebohm, Caroline. The Man Who Was Vogue: The Life and Times of Condé Nast. New York: Viking Press, 1982.
“The Sexes: Really Socking It to Women.” Time, February 7, 1977.
Sheppard, Eugenia. “Some People Say They’re Crazy.” New York Post, November 12, 1968.
Shrimpton, Jean. An Autobiography. London: Sphere Books, 1991.
Sischy, Ingrid. “Exposure.” New Yorker, April 10, 1995, 45.
Snow, Carmel, with Mary Louise Aswell. The World of Carmel Snow. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1962.
Span, Paula. “Richard Avedon’s Stark Faces of the West.” Washington Post, October 29, 1985, C1–C2.
Squiers, Carol, and Vince Aletti. Avedon Fashion, 1944–2000. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2009.
Steichen, Edward. A Life in Photography. London: W. H. Allen, 1963.
Steinbicker, Earl. Assisting Avedon (iTunes app). San Francisco: Sutro Media, 2012.
Stern, Bert. Adventures. Boston: Bulfinch Press, 1997.
Stopin, Raphaelle. “The Sky over Paris.” In Paris 1963/Paris 1965, by Melvin Sokolsky. Los Angeles: Leafcar Editions, 2011.
style.com. Voguepedia. http://forums/thefashionspot.com.
Szarkowksi. Irving Penn. New York: Museum of Modern Art, 1984.
Taylor, Angela. “The Deborah Turbeville Look: Altering the Focus on Fashion.” New York Times, January 24, 1977, 27.
Tourdjman, Georges, and Allan Porter. Alexey Brodovitch: Grand Palais, Paris, 27 Octobre–29 Novembre 1982. Paris: Ministère de la Culture, France, 1982.
Tungate, Mark. Branded Beauty: How Marketing Changed the Way We Look. London: Kogan Page, 2011.
Turbeville, Deborah. The Fashion Pictures. New York: Rizzoli, 2011.
Van Meter, Jonathan. “The Godfather.” Vogue, May 2009, 192.
———. “Pretty Women.” Vogue, October 1990, 346.
Vienne, Véronique. “Hélène Gordon-Lazareff: The Tsarina Who Was Elle.” Graphis, July–August 1999.
Vreeland, Diana. Memos: The Vogue Years. New York: Rizzoli, 2013.
Walden, Celia. “Why Black Is ‘the New Black.’ ” Sunday Telegraph, June 29, 2008, 22.
Wallace, Benjamin. “Terry Richardson Shot Himself.” New York, June 16–29, 2014, 28–35, 130.
Wallach, Amei. “Richard Avedon Looks Straight at the Camera.” Los Angeles Times, June 2, 1974, 16.
Warhol, Andy, and Pat Hackett. POPism: The Warhol Sixties. New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1980.
Weinberg, Lauren. “Wunderkind.” Glass Archive, July 4, 2014.
Wilson, Earl. “It Happened Last Night.” Newsday, 1961, 6C.
Wolfe, Tom. “The Girl of the Year.” New York Herald Tribune Sunday Magazine, December 6, 1964.
Woodward, Richard B. “Whither Fashion Photography?” New York Times, June 8, 1997, 55.
Zahm, Olivier. “Terry Richardson’s Life Story—Episode 1.” Purple, Fall–Winter 2008.
———. “Terry Richardson’s Life Story—Episode 2.” Purple, Spring–Summer 2009.
———. “Terry Richardson’s Life Story—Episode 4.” Purple, Spring–Summer 2010.
Zwingle, Erla. “Inside Advertising: Dior.” American Photo, February 1981, 102–3.
INDEX
A note about the index: The pages referenced in this index refer to the page numbers in the print edition. Clicking on a page number will take you to the ebook location that corresponds to the beginning of that page in the print edition. For a comprehensive list of locations of any word or phrase, use your reading system’s search function.
A
Aarons, Slim, 198, 226
Abascal, Ana-Maria, 119, 124
Abascal, Naty, 119, 124, 205
Abercrombie & Fitch, 305–6, 349
Adam, Peter, 281, 282–83
Adler, Renata, 213, 214–15
Adventures, 83
Advertising Age, 333
Adweek, 341
Agha, Mehemed Fehmy, 25–26, 30n, 32, 33, 36, 38, 40, 41
AIDS, 266–67, 281, 294–96
Aladdin Sane, 100
Alaïa, Azzedine, 266, 323
Alas, Mert, 344, 350
Aletti, Vince, 209, 253, 304
Allen, Dede, 272
Allure, 325
American Photo, 18, 244, 305
American Photographer, 213n
Ameringe, Judith van, 143
Amica, 164
Andia, Douce de, 192, 246, 247, 248
Aniston, Jennifer, 158
Années Elle, Les, 177
Ann Taylor, 6
Ansel, Ruth, 68, 116, 198, 318, 356
Antonioni, Michelangelo, 123, 133
Aquilon, Jeff, 276
Arbus, Diane, 110, 111, 131, 213, 231, 272, 273
Arbus, Doon, 213, 250, 251, 252
Armani, Giorgio, 294, 328
Armstrong-Jones, Anthony, 102
Arnault, Bernard, 349
Arpège perfume, 136
Artist in His Studio, The (Liberman), 310
Astaire, Fred, 61, 102, 109
Aswell, Mary Louise, 69
Aucoin, Kevyn, 325
Auermann, Nadja, 254–55
Avakian, Aram, 87
Avedon, Dorcas Nowell (Doe), 50, 51, 52, 57, 58, 59, 61
Avedon, Evelyn Franklin, 58, 59–60, 65–66, 68, 212, 214
Avedon, Jacob “Jack,” 44, 45, 208–9
Avedon, John, 213, 214
Avedon, Richard, 18, 21–23, 24, 43, 44–49, 50–52, 56–61, 64, 65–68, 69–70, 71–72, 82, 85, 89, 90, 95, 109, 110–12, 115, 118, 122, 124, 132, 133, 157, 163, 198, 207, 230, 231, 264, 273, 279, 302, 311, 316, 339–40, 354, 358, 360, 366
background of, 44–45
bodies changed on photographs by, 124–25
as Brodovitch’s student, 31–32
classes taught by, 233
commercials filmed by, 250–51, 252
death of, 255
father’s reconciliation with, 208–9
films as inspiration for, 70–71
friction with Vogue, 162
hospitalization of, 213
King influenced by, 205
Kinski portrait of, 252–53
and Lewin’s lighting technique, 159, 161–62
Liberman’s cropping of photos of, 209–10
Liberman’s relationship with, 130–31, 210, 211
loss of primacy of, 139
Man Ray praised by, 33
Mirabella’s dislike of, 209
Mitchell photographed by, 118–19
money troubles of, 214
in move to Vogue, 160, 161
nervous breakdown of, 126–27
as out of fashion, 253–55
Paolozzi photographed by, 113
Parker made supermodel by, 60, 61–62
Penn’s criticism of, 73–75
political movements documented by, 111, 215
progressive politics of, 73, 208, 210
relationship with model, 160–61
Rogers’s relationship with, 207
Rolling Stone work of, 214–15
separation of, 212
sexuality of, 57–58, 212–13
Snow’s instructions to, 52–53
Sokolsky’s first conversation with, 116–17
Tree discovered by, 131
in Vietnam, 208
Avedon Fashion, 209
Avildsen, John, 164
Ayer, Teddy, 84–85
B
Bacall, Lauren,
21, 207
Bailey, David, 79, 95, 98, 100, 101, 102–3, 104, 120, 121–22, 123–24, 125, 126, 131, 132, 135, 136, 178, 181, 195, 250–51, 357
Bailey, Glenda, 369
Baker, Chet, 101, 302
Balanchine, George, 87, 134
Baldwin, Bill, 68
Baldwin, James, 46, 65, 73
Balet, Marc, 240–41, 244, 274, 326
Ballet (Brodovitch), 30–31, 70
Ballets Russes, 30
Bandy, Way, 294
Banks, Jeffrey, 268
Bantry, Bryan, 182–83, 240
Bantry, Soames, 183
Bardem, Javier, 308
Bardot, Brigitte, 301
Barker, Laughlin, 294
Barneys New York, 307, 326, 330, 331, 336, 338
Baron, Fabien, 301, 302, 324, 326, 331, 333–34, 335–36, 339, 340, 341, 344, 369
Barr, Neal, 199
Barrington, Bijou, 48
Bassman, Lillian, 31, 49, 51, 57, 58, 66, 72, 95–96, 314
Battelle, Kenneth, 91, 111, 122
Beard, Peter, 130
Beatles, 103, 162
Beaton, Cecil, 26, 35–36, 42, 53, 112, 122, 131
Bechiri, Hamid, 228, 229, 242
Beckford, Tyson, 303
Belafonte, Shari, 252
Bendel, Henri, 40
Bensimon, Gilles, 169–73, 177, 178, 182, 186, 191–92, 218, 246–49, 256–59, 323n
Bensimon, Pascha, 177, 192, 247
Berenson, Marisa, 131, 145, 203
Bergé, Pierre, 21
Bernard, Walter, 198
Bernbach, Doyle Dane, 107
Bernstein, Leonard, 112
Bert Stern: Original Mad Man (film), 165
Bert Stern Studio, 143
Beyoncé, 374
Bianchi, Iris, 124
Biba, 176
Bicker, Phil, 328–29, 367
Big Picture, The, 220
Billingsley, Sherman, 231
Bishop, John, 143
Bisset, Jacqueline, 104
Blackglama furs, 140, 207
Blass, Bill, 231
Blonde on Blonde, 156
Bloomingdale’s, 213n, 247–48, 250
Blow-Up (film), 123, 125, 137, 178, 179, 201
Blum & Poe, 11
Blumenfeld, Erwin, 34–37, 42, 54
in break with Vogue, 54–55
Bolen, Lin, 143
Bon Marché, 373
Borain, Josie, 189–91, 300
Bossidy, Tina, 226, 227, 228, 240
Boston Globe, 196, 199
Bosworth, Patricia, 47, 110