Journal of a Mountain Man
Page 14
24 A dull cloudy morning the camp made early preparations For moveing & all roled out except ourselves who remain to take care of Mr Barnett whose prspects for living seem a little better than yestarday all though yet quite small every preperation seemed dull & melancholly & many bid the sick man their last farewell look a Spade was thrown out & left which looked rather ominous The ravens came croaking around us and the Shaggey wolf was seen peeping from the hills to see if the way was clear to contend with the ravens for the Fragment of the camp Early in the afternoon Capt Shaw and Morisons company hove in sight and the hills and the vally became the seene of life and animation again for the evening they camping about ½ a mile below us Several came to visit us Mr. Harris staid though the night
Sunday the 25 Clear and Bright no change for the better in Mr Barnetts Symtoms rather worse allthough medicine seemed to operate well Found it verry Lonesome to be clear of the noise and Bustle of a large camp and to remain Stationary with a Sick man in one of the most prominent Indian passes of the country in the afternoon However Perkins and Scott came up with the rear of all the Emigrants on the rout & we had their company during the night which intirely relieved the lonsomeness of the Place and many of the Ladies seemed emulous to see which should be the most active in giving us advice & assistance for the relief of our appearently dying friend the Perkins family in particular
I noticed several vegetables now in full Bloom & do not seem to be the least affected by the cold allthough we have had frost & Ice for 4 nights in succession
“listned to the hair breadth escapes
of Mr. Harris & other Mountaineers”
26 Usually fine and bright Mr Burnett to all appearance Still wareing away under a verry Strong nervous excitement never being Scarcly one minuit still at a time Mr Scotts company remain here to day and Several of the Ladies are verry kind in doing all they can to make the sick man comfortable about noon Mr Barnette commenced with severe Spasms & seemd to be in the gratest agony imaginable continually driving his teame or calling on some friend to do something or other all those called being absent late in the evening howeveer he became at spells more camlm & even Stupid & about 10 oclock he departed this life verry easy without a struggle or a groan & all his troubles ware in Silent death having nothing better we cut a bed of green willows & laid him out on the cold ground & all of us seated ourselves around our camp fire & listned to the hair beadth escapes of Mr Harris & other Mountaineers
27 Early we ware up and making preperations for the enterment of the deceased when after Burying him in the most decent manner our circumstances would admit we made ready for leaveing Sweet water on which now rests the Body of Mr Barnette the first white man that ever rested his bones on that stream leaving our willow encampment we soon rose the deviding ridge Between the waters of the Atlantic & Pacific which is nothing more than a plasant assent for about 23 miles & decent of the same distance to afine grassy Spring Brook which pours it’s crystal waters through green River into the gulf of California rode 25 miles and campd on little sandy likewise a tributary of green River
28 Made an Early Start & in a few hours came in sight of a large grassy vally through which runs Big Sandy which unites with the stream we encamped on last night a few miles blow & continue nearly a South course untill they mingle their waters with Green river our general course a little West of South yestarday & to day we had a number of fine views of Several of the pinicles of the wind river mountains the country dry & dusty cowred with wild sage & Praerie Thorn & a few other hardy Stinted vegetables traveled down the west side of Big Sandy Several miles from the Stream as it runs in a croked deep Channel Rode 25 miles and campd on Big Sandy During the day had one or 2 views of the utaw mountains Several Snowy point being directly South and bearing Southwest
29 In about 2 Hours ride we came to green river a beautifull clear crystal Stream about one hundred yards wide & nearly Belly deep to our Horses running East of S. through a Sandy parched dry country but little of it clothed with grass some groves of Shrubby cotton wood growing on its banks after crossing we rode down the vally of this stream about 6 miles East of South then South over the Bluffs 12 miles to Black fork which Stream likewise runs into Seetskadee [Green River] about 20 miles east of whare our trail struck it all the high ground dry & dusty & covered with the Eternal Sage which can live without rain from June untill October on a clean pure granite gravel after coming down into the vally of Blacks Fork we turned Short to the West up the same rode 5 miles making about 30 miles and encamped with our former mess once more
“Bridger & Vasqueses trading house”
30 Moved up Blacks fork and in an hour crossed Hams fork coming in from the N.W. through a fine grassy vally crossed Blacks fork & made a cut off of a long bend & struck the river again in the afternoon we had the Singular phenominon of Seeing a Shower of rain in the vally & after the light cloud passed off the peaks of the Eutaw [Uintah] mountain ware covered white with a fresh fallen snow which however ware partially covered with the snows of former winters made 18 miles & encamped on the Stream we left this morning numerous Butes Mounds & ridges occurring all through this vally formed to all appearances by wash of water consisting of Red brown white & green clay formed in many places into Soft rock but still washing away by the water at ever[y] freshett Made 14 miles
31 Moved up the vally of Blacks Fork & early in the afternoon arived at Bridger & Vasqueses trading house [Fort Bridger] a tempory concern calculated for the trade with Shoshonees and Eutaws which trade is not verry valuable this place is likewise the general rendezvous of all the rocky mountain hunters & Trappers that once numerous class of adventurers are now reduced to less than thirty men which Started out under the command of Mr Bredger yestarday on an excursion thrugh the mountains of Northern & central Mexico this small Trading post is also within the limmits of Mexico but can be no great distance south of the U. S.tates Boundary line this Establisment has a fine grassy vally arround it but of no greate extent we here met Mr Robedeau [Antoine Robidoux] from the arkansas with horses and mules & other articles porposely to catch our trade
Sunday th 1st of September 1844 Moved out north across the hills from Bridgers Trading House found the road rough & hilly & perfectly bare of grass crossed Several steep & deep ravines one of which had some pools of poor Brackish water standing in it in the afternoon passed a low range of hills covered with cedar to our left and encamped on a creek called [Little] muddy emtying into Hams creek our rout through this Green River vally has been verry crooked & might be easily made to save about 50 miles by keeping more westwardly as the rout is equally level & the only object of this zigzag road is to pass the trading hous which however is some convenienc as we ware able to trade every extra article we had for mokisens & leather clothing exchanged of all our worn out mules & horses 20 miles
2 Fine & dry moved westwardly up the vally of [Little] mudy creek which is entirely bare of grass made 12 miles & encamped in a Loose Scattering manner grass Scarce & dried all up pased Several ranges of volcanic hills rocks standing nearly perpendicular running as usual from S.W. to N.E. But differant from any I had before noticed the perpendicular Bluffs being on the eastern side & the gradual slope on the west the sides of many of the ridges are covered with scatering cedars but most of them are bare having Scarcely any vegetation on them not even the wild Sage which seems to be the hardiest vegitable in this cold dry region & I can now see severall Bunches Just dropping the Bloom allthough we have had but few nightis without frost since we came in sight of the snow capt mountains game antelopes grouse & Rabbits
3 I let my Horses loose a little before day & they took the road ahead & I did not come up with them for about 4 miles whare they stoped to graze on a small valy of fine grass whare we all Should have encampd last night all Subordination and controle haveing been broken up for several days thinking ourselves out of danger at least danger of life But all savages will Steal & so will the Shoshonees a partiy of which are now passing while I am writeing Made 5 miles &
encamped at a fine Sping of water the head of the North branch of [Little] Muddy on a fine platte of grass the rout to cross the Second mountain or devideing ridge between Green river & Bear river Several of us are preparing to go through on Horses & are Buisily preparing for our departure tomorrow nothing for fire but Sage
4 Left our encampment Early 4 of us on packhorses for fort Hall & In a few hours we arived at the top of the ridge or mountain deviding the waters of green river and Bear riiver which last Emties in to the Greate Salt Lake from the top of the ridge we had a fine view of Green River vally which at this season of the year Looks Bald rough & desolate the Bear River vally ahead not quite so Bad but bear & Bad Enough every thing looking dry and parched the road up the East side follows a ravine whose sides are finely clothed in many places with aspin groves and the assent not verry Steep or difficult several fine Springs breaking out Just below the assent the asent westward is steep in several places & some sideling ground that requires some care & a good spring Breaks out on Left of the road made 30 melis & encamped on Bear river
5 packed up & moved North down Bear River vally a brad fine well grssed vally with a steep range of volcanick mountains on each side but these ranges are not so regular as those noticied Hertofore but the rocks & earth Shew more the marks of eternal heat about noon we passed Smiths river running into Bear River the former a rapid Stream about 20 yards wide running rapidly over a round gravelly bed clear as crystal & cool as spring water made 24 miles & encamped on the North bend or as the hunters say whare Bear River comes around the point of the mountain this vally is the early Rendevous of the mountain Trappers & hunters But in the last 7 or 8 years the Buffaloe have entirely left this country & are now seldom seen west of Sweet water 20 miles Travled
6 Started Early on the road following the bends of the River which was here during the forenoon verry crooked running at allmost all points of the compass early in the afternoon the road Steered out from the river & crossed over a steep ruged mountain which howevir is not wide the decente being very steep & about a mile in length from the top of this mountain we had a view of the N. end of sweet Lake [Bear Lake] which lies in a vally South of the river the river pasing through this mountain opens out into a much larger vally below the mountains bordering this vally have the same vitrified volcanick appearance as yestarday If it was not for the intire want of Timber this vally in many places might bear cultivation to some extent made 27 miles & encamped on a cool mountain Brook destitute of Timber
“encamped at the Soda Springs”
7 Packed up before Sunrise and made off down the rever a N. W. course through a fine level vally for Several hours the mountains keeping thier usual appearance about noon we again had to cross over a mountain not verry high or ruged We did not Strike the river during the day but crossed several Brooks of good water & encamped at the Soda Springs a company of hunters from Fort hall had Just arived & Likewise a few persons (to hunt and make dried meat) For California
These Springs are a greate natural curiosity the immediate vicinity of Springs are covered with Shrubby Cedars and pine timber & near the river a Shelly rock makes its appearance a little further out a fine white clay which appeared to have been blown up with a Substrata of rock which lies immediately beneath a thin Layer of caly [clay] this appears in dry times to form Quantities of the Salts of Soda then it becomes Quickly moistened and produces a Quanty of gass which is confined below & Bursts up the rock & earth to give it vent. the Strongest Spring is about ½ a mile North from the river which is so highly charged that it almost takes your Breath to drink acup of it Quick from the Spring But the most Singular one is below near the river Spouting as much as 6 feet high & a heavy collumn I had not more than one hour to make my examinations I regrett much that I was so hurried Several Large Spings of fresh water Break out in the viceinity of these & one hot Spring the rocks Strewed over the Lower plain has once evidently been in a State of fusion & resemble the Slag thrown out of Lead furnaces I mean the rock Strewed over the lower part of the vally
Sunday
8 After taking several hearty drinks of Soda water we left the Soda Springs went down the vally of the River about three miles when the river & us took different directions we turning Short to the N. & the River to the S a fine looking open vally Shewed itself before us but we ware Sadly disapointed for our appearant Smoothe road was rough & rocky all covered with Cynders of the hardest kind and broken into chasms & deep holes in all directions & the forenoon was wholy the worst road we have seen the afternoon proved to be better Traveling made 17 miles & encamped on Portnuff a Stream haveing Some curoisity about its heading in (in) the mountain deviding Bear & Snake Rivirs and taking a Southern course into the vally of Bear River it turns short into the mont[ain]
9 Made an Early Start on way up Portnuff & at noon Stop to graze on the top of the mountaines deviding the rivers we found this mountain pass verry cold & windy leaveing our Nooning place we wound around from Knob to ravine a few hours and began [to] desend on the ravines of Rosss. Creek toward Snake River Saw Some good Soil on these mountains but it is so dry & cold that it is useless made 25 miles and campd. The Prairies haveing been burnt recently our horses fared rather poor the ranges of these hills or mountains are not so regular as some others we have passed But are burned blacker and harder than any yet seen & are thrown up in a more confused manner Saw no kind of game Save a few covys of mountain grouse
I fear the whole country West and South of us will be burned over as it keeps verry Smokey
10 Moved on down the creek N. W. & Soon came in sight of the broad extensive vally of Snake river which for Several miles was entirely covered with wild Sage & deep blackish Sand after a fatiguing [ride] we at length reachd the Low vally & found plenty of grass & good water whare we unpacked to graze Made 16 miles & encamped on Snake River abut 2 miles above Fort Hall as we understood the grass was poor Further down this vally is wide & the Northern Highlands are invisible perhaps on account of the Smoke which lies thick in this vally the land appears to be poor & cold with great Quantities of Springs & Brooks in all Directions with the finest Kind of Trout but they ware Difficult to be Taken I did not go down to visit the Fort as I had no Letters for that place a good stock of cattle is Kept at the fort & a Large Quantity of Horses
“Battlements of Fort Hall “
11 one ½ hour brot us oposite to the white washed mud walled Battlements of Fort Hall and as I had no Buisiness to transact I did not go inside But the outward appearance was pretty fair for a comfortable place for all that the present trade admits of Flour plenty at $20 per cwt. as nothing was purchased I cannot give any other prices but I presume they are as cheap as any of her Sister establishment in this region about noon crossed Portnuff here a Swift Stream 60 yards wide & Belly deep to our horses haveing plenty of T[r]out in it Made 18 miles & encamped on the river about half of a mile above the first falls during the whole of the afternoon we ware passing large bottoms of grass which would Support a considerable number of cattle & other Stock but no land fit for cultivation the uplands are covered with wild Sage
12 about Sunrise we ware again on the trail and passed the falls whose musick luled us to sleep last night these falls have but little perpendicular pitch but fall about 16 or 18 feet in a verry short distance the water comeing rapidly down a raged rock is torn all into white foam Several rapids occured this forenoon and the whole country appears to have been once in a complete fusion of Liquid matter the rocks are all of a dark Borown & Black vitrified colour & some resembling Black glass in every particular a fiw Scattering cedars appear along the Bluffs which only help to give the country more of a melencholly appearance the Eternal Sage plains appear as extensive as formerly Cossed one singular creek which came tumbling down rapidly over a continual Succession of diposit damns made from the water made 27 miles
“Distruction brooding over dispair”
13 Last night contrary to our expectations we came to a brook with a broad vally of fine grass this brook is called
cassia [Raft River, says Camp] & is the place whare Mr. Hitchcock left our rout & went South with 13 wagons in company for California this days Travel is the most Barren Sterril region we have yet passed nothing to disturb the monotony of the Eternal Sage plain which is covered with broken cynders much resembling Junks of pot mettal & Now & then a cliff of Black burned rock which looks like Distruction brooding over dispair found a filthy pond of water at noon made 28 miles & encamped on the river which we left yestarday & again had fair grazeing No animal Seen no fowl Save a few mountain grouse which can live in any region whare vegitation can grow our couse down this river so far has been S.W.
14 Left our camp on the river & Steered S. of W. across a Barren Sage plain corssed one brook of water & Saw 2 Antelope the only animals seen in some days The earth is the driest I ever saw it & the dust rises in perfect clouds every particle of moistness & adhsion is obliterated & lost & currents of dust is frequently seen rolling down the path & Spreading like hot embers that have been well Stirred came to the River to noon & grze the River running through cliffs of Black volcanic Rocks which grew Steeper & higher as we decended down the River at length we left the Bluffs of the River being 1000 or more feet of Perpendicular Rock standing from the plain to the water & the river pressed to 20 or 30 feet in width after 20 miles of fatiugueing ride we encampd haveing made 30 miles at fair grass & water
Sunday
15 Left our camp on the brook & moved off west over a Sage plaine as usual Kept down the course of the creek we encamped, on last nght soon saw that it fell in to a Kenyon of Steep Black Rocks after following 8 or 10 miles we crossed..over the Kenyon at a favourable point & Struck for the River over the usual Kind of Sage plane & late in the afternoon we desended the main Kenyon on Snake River The Black battlement cliffs of this river remind one of the Fragments of a world distroyed or at least distroyed for all human purposes on the river we found a Small fishing party of Ponacks. [Bannocks] who had plenty of Small fish of the Sucker mouthed Kind Several Tremendious Springs come Pouring out of the rocks oposite Made 20 miles & encamped on the River confined in Between high & impassible rocks