Journal of a Mountain Man
Page 27
5 A Rany morning But It cleared up in the afternoon and the sun shone Beautifully onc more—
6 A pleasant day but a cool frosty morning
7 The same Except the frost a little lighter
8 Clear and Pleasant
9 The same
10 Cloudy and warm in fact a coat has been but little needed this winter except in the rain or for a morning.
11 Sunday warm and cloudy fine growing weather verry much resembling a Missouri April or a Eeastern May The Mansoneta in full bloom—and the wild Oats about acle [ankle] high shewing fine as a wheat field in may of Wisconsin—
Kiled 14 Deer some fine and fat during the last week
12 Frosty morning
Heard that Mr Fremont had arived at suitors Fort and still more recently that Mr Hastings and Party had likewise arived Both From the U States. But no information has yet arived of the Politicks of the states in fact information of all Kinds Travels slow and is verry uncertain when it has arived you know nothing certain unless you see it yourself
13 Showers of rain with a good prospect of another Flood—the rain continued untill night
14 Morning clear and bright—all hands buisy Plowing and sowing wheat Barly &c or at least all that expect to reape their own grain next harvest
The recently arived emigration from the U States appear to be Quite industrious in making preperations for living in some civilized form—
15 Cloudy & cool
16 showers of rain and Quite warm for the middle of winter
17 Last night was a night of Excessive rain and this morning all the low grounds are again immerced in water the day however proved clear with a N. W. wind
17 Sunday clear an fine with a s[t]iff white frost in the morning Kd. 8 Deer
18 Cloudy and warm the wind seldom blows more than an hour or two and that during the commencement of (of) a rainy spell the mountains are high steep and rocky and the rains rapid so that the water soon collects in the vallies and covers nearly the whole Earth in a few hours The rocks generally stand in nearly a perpendicular direction and what water finds its way down through them goes to an immence depth in the Earth what water continues near the surface soon runs of and leaves large dry tracts of rocky mountainous country without or very scantily supplied with water in the dry seasons
19 Cloudy with several Light showers of rain
20 It rained the whole of Last night and still continues to rain with a thick dense fog Had the pleasure of an evinings conversation with Mr [Isaac A.] Flint from Wisconsin Feel a great Disire to see Millwaukie this morning—
21 and 22 Cloudy and warm The Mansoneto Dropping its
“the dew standing
on the green vegitation”
Blows the Alder in full Bloom In fact allthough we have had a number of frosty mornings their has been no day but what has been uncomfortable to walk or exercise in any way without feeling a coat Quite to heavy and warm allthough my wintering ground is in a narrow vally nearly surrounded by high rugged mountains and I find it verry little cooler on (on) the mountains than in the vallys during the hours of sun shine but when the sun is hidden a great differanc is precievable
23 Cloudy and warm
24 Clear and warm
25 Thick Foggy morning and tremendious heavy dew cleared off about noon fine and warm
Killed during the week 7 Deer
26 Close and warm and damp
27 Considerable rain fell during the night and the day proved showery and cool
28 Showers
29 Clear & cool
30 Considerable rain fell
31 Excessive rains during the night and continued all day the vallies inundated with water again the mountains sending down their Torrents in white form— The climate of oregon and california resemble each other verry much oregon being somewhat cooler
Sundy the First of February—1846
Killed during the week 8 Deer This day proved clear and pleasant But the country is completely impassable on account of the greate depth of mud and general softness of the earth several thunder showers passed During the last evening and night the Thunder However was low and grmbling & the Lightning not at all vivid or bright.
2 warm and moist the dew standing on the green vegitation throughout the day
3 a cool night and a whit frost this morning the afternoon cloudy
4 Hazy and cool with a brisk wind from the East
5 considerable rain fell during the day Early sown wheat begins to shew green the Peach trees beginning to shew their bloom willow in bloom.
6 Clear and pleasant the grass about ancle high and several kinds of small herbs shewing their Bloom
7 Rainy dull weather
8 Continues to rain with a thick dense fog—
9 Cool and Rainy
10 snow seen on high peaks of the Napa mountain
11 the snow that fell yestarday is still visible and the air chilly and cool
12 Clear with a Keen white frost over all the green vegitation which however did not in the least injure the tenderest herbage
13 another frost not quite so Keen as yestarday both days came off fine and pleasant Garden Peas up and growing finely Beets, Cabbages, Onions Radishes and Turnips all up and thriveing wheat Likewise covers the ground fine and green Horses and cattle thriveing the native grasses and wild oats ancle high Clover begins to cover the groud their is five or six species of native clover to be found all coming from the seed annually some Kinds grow large and strong measuring full grown and straight five or six feet in length and setting emmensely thick on the earth
14 Pleasant & clear
15 same
16 same
17 Clear with a strong north wind the Earth becoming some what drained but not dry by any means
18 clear the Buck Eye shrubs begining to shew their leaf as some of the Black oaks
18 Clear with a fair prspect of the rainy season having come to a close—
19 , 20 & 22 Continues clear and fine weather The Buck Eye shrubery shews the leaf as Like wise the Black oak the vallies still wet and muddy but the mountains becomeing dry and covered handsomely green with a thick groth of native herbage
23 same
24 same
25 Rainy with moderate showers fine growing weather these showers continued Throughout the monthe the season for sowing wheate is over as it is considered a very uncertain prospect for wheat to sow after the first of March all kinds of stock and cattle in particular are now thriveing rapidly on the young pastureage whuch is now green and tender this month is usually considered spring in this region but this season is rather more backward than usual and some kinds of timber scarcely shows the swelling of the bud some considerable talk of prepareing for the states and Oregon for both of which parties are making preperations for and both of which are long tiresome and some what dangerous routs so I close the winter or at least the winer months—
Notes on Chapter Fourteen:
Camp also found a petition signed by Clyman and sixteen others, addressed to Consul Larkin urging him to protect the foreign residents of San Francisco against disorders arising after an assault on Capt. Elliot Libbey of the American ship Tasso. Cap. Libbey and Nathan Spear had been set upon in the streets of San Francisco by the citizens’ patrol and the Captain received severe knife wounds. The attackers belonged to native families prominent in the town, and it was feared the guilty persons would not be brought to trial. The petitioners asked that the American sloop of war Levant should remain in the bay to prepare to assist. Larkin forwarded this petition to Commander Hugh N. Page of the Levant, with the request that his ship remain in the harbor. All this simply contributed to the strong feelings regarding Mexican domination of the area, feelings which were echoed back east, where some politicians called for a war to annex the disputed area, and others counseled peace.
On January 20, Clyman visited with Isaac A. Flint of Wisconsin and felt a great desire to see Milwaukee again. He wrote to Fremont offering him a company of
American emigrants as escort, protection, and guides for the return journey. This offer was refused.
Chapter 15
Notebook Eight—In California and across the Sierra
Clyman started east in company with Lansford W. Hastings, James M. Hudspeth, and a party including sixteen other men, three women and two children. Caleb Greenwood had been over the route in 1844 with a party of immigrants by way of Fort Hall, down the Humboldt River and across the Truckee divide.
Hastings had published a book the previous year directing emigrants to take this difficult, but shorter, trail, which thus became known as the “Hastings Cutoff.” Incredibly, he had never been over it. Apparently he decided to risk taking his own advice, since he’d have a couple of old frontiersmen along.
Clyman’s route probably followed Greenwood’s in a general way, though even with his journals it’s hard to be precise. Fremont’s crossing of the Desert of the Great Salt Lake was one of the earliest, so Clyman’s detailed description of the route is important, especially because Clyman and Hastings later argued over its merits. Clyman’s meeting with the Donner party (which appears in Notebook Nine), during which he advised them against this route, thus takes on even more importance.
Feb. 26 to May 31, 1846
Feby 26 Rainy and disagreeable
27 same only more so
28 cool and cloudy
1846 March the first
This is one of the climates that makes a fair and beautifull appearance for the commencement of the vernal season to commence with the opening and springing vegitation all of which makes a forward appearanc many of the oak Trees haveing their leaves half thier size and numerous native flowrets are seen in all directions mostly of a yallow and Purple colour and of a small kind The lowlands However are nearly covered in water from the recent excessive rains which have fallen
An excessive rain fell during last night which overflowed completely the allready half deluged vallies the mountains sending down thier torrents in white sheets of troubled waters in all their ravines—But as the mountains are built of intire rock their is but little except water and gravel to bring down both of which are plenty
2 Cloudy and warm
3 Clear and warm
4 same
5 clear and Beautifull the greate flood of water which deluged nearly all of the vallies is begining to subside and leave the earth green and fine to all appearance but desperately miry and I found it verry difficult for my horse to carry me only a few miles
6 & 7 still clear and fine
8 a beautifull day
9 same a young Mr [Britton or John] Greenwood came in haveing been out some weeks hunting and Trapping in the mountains north he brought in a beautifull specemin of pure Sulpher and he informs me he saw greate Quantities of this mineral as Likewise a mineral resembling galena Lead ore in great abundance—but as Mr Greenwood had the ill luck to loose his specimens [of] Lead ore I cannot say what kind of mineral it was
There is greate Quantities of soda found in many places all Through California and Lye made of ashes is never used in the manufacture of soap but a species of earth is found that answers weell for this purpose and in fact in many places there is found sinks or holes in the earth that fills with water in the rainy seasons and which after it has evaporated considerably by the dry weather has all the appearance and Qualities of Lye made from ashes and is collected for soap making
Mercury or Quecksilver is found in many places and is manufactured in small Quntity [at New Almaden] near the puablau villag [of San Jose] soth of the Bay of St Francisco gold is said to Exist in the same neighbourhood but is not worked silver is Likewise said to have been found near the same place
Small Quantities of magnetic Iron may be seen in many places But I have not heard of any Iron being manufactured in any part of the country some portions of the countrey is said abound in salt but the salt used in california is brought from the Sandwich Islands and is Quite cheap Salt is an article not much used by the californians
10 Many of the oak Trees make a fine shade and summer seems to be fast approaching allthough the mountains are still covered white in snow Lettuce and Radishes plenty whare any attention has been paid to gardening—
From the Eighth untill the 15th the weather was fine clear and warm during the hours of sunshine but cool at night and the particular in the mornings which ware chilly and require a coat to feel comfortable
15 The morning somewhat overcast and cool but the sun soon drove off the Haze and shone warm and pleasant
“a report…that Capt. Fremont
has raised the American flag in Monteray”
16 Cool and somewhat Cloudy wind from the north in the afternoon some light showers of hail or snow fell the first I have seen fall in the vallies sinc I have been in California
17 The sun arose in his usu[al] bright majesty and splendor. Of all places this is the country for news or false reports there being no report that can be relid on except you have some personal Knowledge of the matter a report is now rife that Capt Fremont has raised the american flag in Monteray and all good citizens are caled on to appear forthwith to appear at Sonoma armed and (and) Equiped for service under General Byaho [Vallejo] to defend the rights and priviledges of Mexican citizens
21 From the 17 until the 21st the weather was cool with several showers of hail and notwithstanding the vegitation has a show of midsumer yet we had several frosty mornings but I could not precieve the slightest alteration in the appearance of the tenderest vegitable It appears from information now recieved that the alarm mentioned a few days since was created By Mr Freemont having raised an american Flag at his camp neare the Mision of St Johns, and that he was caled on to apeare before some of the so caled Legal authorities whice he declined to do Aand this cercumstance alarmed all of the Californians and caused General Castro to rais 400 men which report says are now under arms at Monteray no report However can be relied on as but few men in this Country can write you may form some Idea of what reports are carried verbally from one to two hundred Miles by an ignorant supersticious people
It was Charles Camp’s belief that Clyman decided on March 21 to make an offer of assistance to Fremont—a company of armed American immigrants. Clyman’s letter was evidently taken to Fremont by the Mr. Flint mentioned by Clyman in his notes for January 20, but the original of Fremont’s reply has not been found in the Clyman papers. Ivan Petroff saw Fremont’s letter in Clyman’s possession in 1871 and preserved a copy:
Fremont’s Answer to Clyman
To James Clyman, Esq.
at Yount’s Mills, California
Dear Sir:
Your favor of the 21st ultimo has been received through the kindness of Mr. Flint, some time since, but as the subject matter is one of the gravest importance I have taken time to consider before venturing upon a definite reply. I am placed in a peculiar position. Having carried out to the best of my ability, my instructions to explore the far west, I see myself on the eve of my departure for home, confronted by the most perplexing complications. I have received information to the effect that a declaration of war between our Government and Mexico is probable, but so far this news has not been confirmed. The Californian authorities object to my presence here and threaten to overwhelm me. If peace is preserved I have no right or business here; if war ensues I shall be out numbered ten to one and be compelled to make good my retreat pressed by a pursuing enemy. It seems that the only way open to me is to make my way back eastward, and as a military man you must perceive at once that an increase of my command would only encumber and not assist my retreat through a region where wild game is the only thing procurable in the way of food. Under these curcumstances I must make my way back alone and gratefully decline your offer of a company of hardy warriors
And remain
Yours Respectfully
JOHN C. FREMONT
Camp on Feather River [?]
December 19th 1845.
The date given by Petroff is obviously wrong.
If we assume that Clyman wrote on March 21, Fremont would not have answered during the following week and spoken of delay in forwarding his letter. Camp has traced his movements for the latter part of March and early April, and believes that Fremont wrote his reply between April 11 and April 14, addressed to Clyman at Yount’s Mills, where Clyman had been on March 31.
Fremont’s letter seems to indicate that he was aware that a declaration of war was on the way, and it is probable, according to Camp, that he received this information after April 28. By April 28, Clyman was already on his way back east.
Camp suggests two possible interpretations for this confusion: if Fremont actually wrote to Clyman in March or April, he was refusing Clyman’s offer either because the time was not ripe for conquest or, “as is more likely,” Camp says, because he had no expectations of military activity. If he wrote to Clyman in May or June, he was concealing his real purpose or hiding his moral support of those who wanted to attach the area to the U.S., the Bear-flaggers.
Camp also indicates that Clyman’s offer was definitely one of military assistance to Fremont, in case Fremont was attacked by the Mexican forces, and not simply an offer to join forces for the trip home. Clyman was no doubt aware that he could collect a company of experienced frontiersmen to fight with Fremont if the necessity arose, and he must have been confident of his own ability to raise such a force in order to make the offer to Fremont in the first place.
[March] 22 A stiff white frost