Living on One Acre or Less

by Sally Morgan

  A swarm of honey bees clinging to a tree.

  Natural beekeeping

  There is an alternative to the traditional way to keep bees, and that is natural beekeeping, which makes use of simple hive designs that have been around for thousands of years and are still used in much of the developing world. It is a less intensive way of beekeeping, and the bees are kept mostly for the benefit they bring rather than for a harvest of honey. It’s based on the approach of ‘giving to the bees’, rather than ‘taking from the bees’.

  Most natural beekeepers use a top-bar hive, which is easy to make. It is simply a trapezoidal box with bars across the top and an entrance for the bees. Each bar has a groove along its length that is filled with wax to act as a guide, and an anchor point for the bees to build their comb. One of the advantages of a top-bar hive is the ease of managing it. It’s very much a hands-off style of beekeeping, with minimal disturbance.

  It is possible to take a small harvest of comb honey from these hives, but the bulk of the honey is left for the bees so they have enough food to last the winter. This avoids the need to feed the bees with a large quantity of sugar solution (tens of kilos) at the end of summer to replace their honey.

  The hive on the left is a Warre hive, which looks like a traditional hive but is in fact a natural hive, while the white-and-blue ones are top-bar hives.

  The bees benefit too. In the wild, the size of the cell varies to suit the conditions. In a traditional hive, the wax foundation dictates the size of the cell, which tends to be larger than a wild cell, so there is more room for honey. But a larger cell also encourages the varroa mite, a major parasite of bees and responsible for the failure of many colonies. In a top-bar hive the bees determine the size of the cells, and there seems to be a lower incidence of varroa in these hives.

  Extraction is simple. First, you remove a bar with its comb, brush off the bees and replace it with a new bar. Drop the comb into a stainless-steel bucket and crush it to release the honey. Strain the honey through muslin into a jar. The leftover wax and honey can be placed back near the hive for the bees to clean, and then you can use the wax for candles.

  APPENDIX: Livestock regulations & good practice

  Animal welfare

  Good animal welfare is key, and for many people one of the reasons for keeping livestock is to ensure that the eggs and meat they eat come from animals that have had a good life. It is important to know your animals, so that you can quickly spot problems. Check them twice a day and take time to observe them. Watch when they run up to you when you bring food: are they moving OK; are they lame; are they behaving differently? Are their faeces normal; is the water going down more quickly than usual? With chickens you could do a regular feather check, as feather pecking is a sign that things are going wrong: there may be parasites or overcrowding, or the chickens are just bored and need some stimulation in their pens. The FeatherWel website (www.featherwel.org) has plenty of information on this.

  Make sure you are registered with a vet and ask for an introductory visit so that he or she can check your animals and discuss welfare. Being registered also means that the vet can prescribe certain drugs, such as antibiotics, without having to visit first.

  It is useful to have a medicine cabinet with essential items such as a thermometer, syringes and needles, scissors, antiseptic spray, wound powder, disposable plastic gloves, Hibiscrub (skin cleanser), foot spray for sheep and goats, a disinfectant for cleaning housing and equipment, petroleum jelly (Vaseline), a red-mite dust containing diatomaceous earth, poultry tonic, apple cider vinegar (a pick-me-up for poultry), anti-feather-pecking spray, poultry comb-and-wattle protector (cream for use in cold weather to stop frostbite) and nutridrops (a pick-me-up for poorly lambs or chickens).

  Food waste

  Nowadays, animal products are moved all around the world, both legally and illegally, so there is a huge potential for these products to carry disease-causing organisms, especially viruses – which may not be killed by freezing or curing. Diseases that can be contracted from eating contaminated food include foot-and-mouth disease, African swine fever, Aujeszky’s disease and swine vesicular disease. As a result, most countries have strict rules regarding the feeding of food waste to livestock, especially meat-containing waste.

  Some countries, such as Australia, have restrictions only on the feeding of meat-containing products, but in the EU there are rules that ban the feeding of any food waste from a catering establishment or domestic kitchen to livestock, including chickens. This includes all kitchen scraps even if they are vegetable-based, as there is a risk that they may have come into contact with meat. I find it’s much easier to pick over my fruit and tidy up vegetables while I’m on the plot, so the waste can go straight to the animals or in the compost bins, rather than deal with it in my kitchen. Anything coming out of the kitchen goes to the wormery or the compost bin.

  Rules and regulations

  There are many rules and regulations relating to the keeping of livestock, in particular to prevent the spread of disease, and these may include identification requirements and movement restrictions. The rules apply whether you keep hundreds of animals or just a couple. They vary from country to country and even state to state, and they change regularly, so it would be impossible to describe them all in the space available here, but the following is an outline of the scenarios in the UK, USA and Australia.

  For UK readers

  UK-based readers can find detailed guidance on the regulations relating to the keeping of farmed animals on the websites of the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra) (www.defra.gov.uk) and the Food Standards Agency (www.food.gov.uk). Don’t forget that regulations vary between England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland!

  Holding number

  If you keep a few chickens or only grow fruit and vegetables then you have no need to register your holding. But if you keep livestock such as goats, sheep, pigs or cattle, or wish to apply for agricultural grants or subsidies, you must obtain a County Parish Holding (CPH) number. This is issued by the Rural Payments Agency (www.gov.uk/rural-payments). The CPH is a 9-digit number: the first 2 digits relate to the county, the next 3 relate to the parish and the last 4 digits are a number unique to the keeper (e.g. 12/345/6789).

  You will also require a flock or herd number, which is obtained from your local Animal Health Divisional Office (AHDO). The number is used to identify your stock and is linked to your CPH. The AHDO will send you a registration document, which will contain your personal details, CPH number and herd mark. If you keep a total of more than 50 birds of any species, you need to register your poultry with the Animal and Plant Health Agency.

  Keeping records

  Your local AHDO will issue you with record books in which you must record all movements, births and deaths, so at any one time you know how many animals you have on your holding, and where animals have been moved to or from. An animal health record book is used to record the use of any medicines, the place from which you obtained the medicine, how much was given and the withdrawal period (the length of time that must elapse before the treated animal may enter the food chain, allowing the medicine to break down in the body so there are no traces of it in the meat). Most counties require you to submit your records every few years. You are not obliged to use the issued record books, so you can use the various farm management packages and apps instead, but you must be able to print out a report to send in when requested.

  Animal identification

  All stock needs to be identified. In England, sheep and goats must be identified within 9 months of birth if they are not housed at night, or 6 months if they are, and before you move them off their holding of birth if that is sooner. Adult sheep must have two tags bearing the same unique number, and one must be a yellow electronic identifier (EID). Animals that are sent to slaughter before they are 12 months old can be identified with a single EID ear tag. There is no requirement to read and record the EID number in the tag, but it will be po
ssible for the abattoir to do so. Pigs need to be identified before they are moved, by either a slapmark (a permanent ink mark on each shoulder), an ear tag or a tattoo in the ear with your herd mark, or, in the case of weaners, by a temporary paint mark. You can order tags from approved manufacturers, together with the applicator needed to insert the tag. Goats must be tagged, but are not yet required to have an EID tag. Rules in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland are different.

  Movement regulations

  For sheep, goats and pigs you must have a CPH number before moving stock on to your holding, and you need to report the movement. You must also report movements off the holding, to another holding or to a slaughterhouse – a process that can now be done electronically – and you must also record all movements on and off your holding in your holding register. When animals arrive on your holding there will be a standstill period, when livestock cannot be moved off your holding, to help prevent the spread of disease. For example, when you move a pig on to a holding, no pig may be moved off it for 20 days other than to slaughter, and no cattle, sheep or goats can be moved for 6 days.

  Fallen stock

  Dead animals need to be collected or taken to an approved site for incineration. They must not be buried on the farm. When you have livestock on your holding you should find a local collector whom you can contact in the event that you have dead animals to dispose of. It is important to keep the receipt given to you by the collector so you can prove that your dead stock were disposed of in a correct manner. A list of approved sites can be found online, but it is easier to use the services of the National Fallen Stock Company (www.nfsco.co.uk).

  Selling eggs

  There are various rules that apply to the selling of eggs. Mostly chicken keepers have ‘farm gate’ sales, for which eggs must be ungraded, clean but not washed, undamaged and with a ‘best before’ date that is within 4 weeks of laying.

  If you intend to sell eggs and have more than 350 birds, you need to register with the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) (www.gov.uk/guidance/meat-and-meat-hygiene#home-slaughter-of-livestock). You must also register if you sell any eggs to a packing centre or you have more than 50 hens and sell your eggs at market. If you wish to sell eggs to shops or catering establishments, you must be approved and authorized as a packing centre by the APHA so you can grade the eggs as Class A. You are given a code, which must be stamped on all Class A eggs. Producers are required to keep detailed records relating to their birds. If you have fewer than 50 hens, you can still sell eggs at a local market, but you need to display your name and address, the ‘best before’ date and any advice to consumers as required under the food labelling regulations.

  If you are transporting ungraded eggs from your holding to a packing centre or a catering establishment, you must register as a food business operator with your local authority and retain records of every consignment of eggs.

  Aquaponics

  If you intend to keep non-native fish, you must register with the Centre for Environment, Fisheries and Aquaculture Science (CEFAS) and complete an ILFA1 form, and if you intend to trade live fish or run an educational centre you will need to have an inspection and complete Form AW1. Full details can be obtained from CEFAS (www.gov.uk/government/organisations/centre-for-environment-fisheries-and-aquaculture-science).

  Slaughter regulations

  EU regulations allow for the on-farm slaughter of small numbers of birds, which can be sold from the farm gate, to local shops, at markets in your own county and adjoining counties, or direct to mail-order customers. If you intend to slaughter poultry on your holding and sell the meat, you need to be registered with your local Environmental Health Department and you must hold a licence to stun and kill poultry. The birds must be stunned and rendered unconscious by electrical or gas stunning or by captive bolt, and then killed immediately by bleeding (cutting the neck arteries). Guidance regarding the correct method of stunning and killing poultry can be obtained from the Humane Slaughter Association (www.hsa.org.uk).

  Sheep, goats and pigs should be taken to a local legally approved abattoir for private slaughter. Although the regulations do allow for the home slaughter of sheep, goats and pigs by the animals’ owner, there are a number of requirements to be met in order to safeguard animal welfare and food safety. If you have arranged for an animal to be slaughtered on your holding, you must ensure that the animal does not suffer any unnecessary suffering or distress. Also, the meat from the slaughtered animal may be eaten only by you and your immediate family. It is an offence to sell or supply meat that has not been slaughtered and health-marked in a licensed abattoir. See www.gov.uk/guidance/meat-and-meat-hygiene#home-slaughter-of-livestock.

  Planning

  If you have purchased some land and are intending to erect buildings such as a stable, shed or polytunnel, you will need to check with your local authority to make sure you do not need to apply for planning permission. Also, you will require planning permission if you want to make a new entrance off the road.

  For US readers

  The complex nature of regulations at the levels of state and federal government mean that it is not possible to go into any detailed discussion here. Livestock traceability is just as important in the USA as in other parts of the world, and there are requirements to obtain premises ID numbers and ear tags for livestock. I would advise that before buying any livestock you refer to your state body or the USDA website (www.usda.gov) and the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) (www.aphis.usda.gov). There are also rules regarding the keeping of animals in urban and rural areas, which may restrict the numbers of animals that may be kept. These tend to vary from county to county, and you may be required to obtain a permit.

  For Australian readers

  All properties used for agricultural purposes are required to have a Property Identification Code (PIC), which is an 8-character alphanumeric code issued by the state or territory authority. The first numeral represents the state/territory, which is followed by 2 letters that represent the municipality, then 2 more letters and 3 numerals. You must apply for a PIC if you keep cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, alpacas, llamas, deer, horses or more than 100 poultry, and, in some states, have 0.5ha (1¼ acres) of grapevines or 20 or more chestnut trees.

  Australia has a National Livestock Identification System (NLIS) in order that cattle, sheep, goats and pigs can be tracked during disease outbreaks. All livestock must be identified with an approved NLIS tag before being moved off a property. If the animal is being moved off its property of birth, it should bear an NLIS breeder tag, which remains with the animal for life. If this is lost, it is replaced by an NLIS post-breeder tag. The colour of the breeder tag represents the year of birth, while all post-breeder tags are pink. At the time of writing, there is an exemption to tag certain breeds of dairy goats. All movements of livestock are accompanied by a National Vendor Declaration (NVD), showing where they have come from and where they are going.

  Owners of more than two pigs require a pig tattoo brand (owners of no more than two are exempt). The brand starts with a numeral that indicates the state, for example Victoria is 3. All pigs going to sale or slaughter must be identified by either a tattoo brand or an ear tag, depending on their body weight, before they leave their property of birth. Pigs under 25kg (55lb) must be tagged with an approved NLIS ear tag printed with the numbers of the tattoo brand. Heavier pigs need both an ear tag and a tattoo brand. Any movement must be accompanied by a PigPass NVD, which contains information to meet traceability and food safety requirements.

  Beekeepers too have to register, and brand all their hives with their unique identifier as proof of ownership. They must report any outbreak of disease, including American foulbrood (AFB), parasitic mites, small hive beetle (SHB) and the bee louse, to their local Department of Agriculture.

  Information about Australian identification and movement regulations can be found on the Meat & Livestock Australia (www.mla.com.au) and the National Livestock Identification System (https://
nlis.com.au) websites.

  RESOURCES

  A wealth of information is available on the topics covered in this book, either in printed form or online. Here I have highlighted some of the resources that may prove to be most useful.

  Informative websites

  Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board

  (AHDB)

  www.ahdb.org.uk

  UK levy board providing information on beef and lamb, pork, potatoes, cereals and horticulture. The sheep and grassland manuals of the Better Return Programme provide essential reading on pasture management.

  Agroforestry Research Trust

  www.agroforestry.co.uk

  UK charity that researches into temperate agroforestry, including tree, shrub and perennial crops. The Trust Director is Martin Crawford (see page 217).

  Animal Welfare Approved

  http://animalwelfareapproved.org