True Summit
Page 24
summit photos taken by, 18, 21, 136, 173, 180, 215, 216, 217–20
surviving members of, 22, 100, 187
weather conditions and, 13–14, 15, 18, 19, 20, 47, 74, 80, 81, 91, 93, 97, 103, 105, 107, 111, 115, 122
wives’ pensions and, 43
Annecy, 60, 61, 62
“Apes or Ballerinas?” (Patey), 149–50
Apprenti Montagnard, L’ (Rébuffat), 39, 42
Ascent, 24
Asselin, Jean-Michel, 186, 217
Aubert, Francis, 193–94, 196, 203, 210
Auriol, Vincent, 136
Austrian mountain climbers, 17, 31
Autre Annapurna, L’ (Herzog), 22, 83–85, 121, 133, 135, 136, 140–41, 152, 159, 171, 189–90
Christian imagery used in, 124, 125–26, 139
discrepancies between Annapurna and, 85, 102–4, 108–9, 112–15, 117, 124, 125, 185
as primary source on Herzog’s background, 81–82
avalanches, 14, 88–89, 110, 116, 197
Herzog and two Sherpas caught in, 20, 116–17, 178, 192
Azéma, M. A., 67
babotsh, 109
Ballu, Yves, 26, 32, 33, 41, 73, 76, 152, 153, 179, 180, 182, 206, 217
Barthe, Patrick, 181
Bataillon de Chasseurs Alpins (BCA), 204
Bates, Bob, 40
Batkin, Jacques, 200
Bauer, Paul, 23
Beckey, Fred, 198
Belgian Congo, 162–63
Berge der Welt, 216
Bernd, Ed, 201–2
biscantin, 60
Blanc, Mont, 34, 46, 61, 82, 83, 114, 147, 154, 162
boots, 96, 119–20, 176–77
Boston Museum of Science, 201
bottled oxygen, 96–97, 120
Boulder, Colo., 22
Brazil, 56, 208
British mountain climbers, 16, 17, 119–20, 148–49, 150, 216
“Brotherhood of the Rope, The” (Rébuffat), 38, 40, 66
Brown, Joe, 149
Bruce, Charles, 29
Buffet, Charlie, 216–17
Buhl, Hermann, 38, 146, 222
cacolet, 122
CAF, see Club Alpin Français
Calanques, 33, 42
California, 64
Canada, 63, 193
Cannon cliff, 67
Carnets du Vertige (Lachenal), 80, 87–88, 91, 111–12, 118
“Commentaries” section of, 173–78, 213, 221–22, 223–24, 225
as construct, 109
expurgating of Lachenal’s writing for first edition of, 25, 43, 49–51, 52–53, 73, 123, 165–67, 172–74, 178, 182, 186, 224
return from Annapurna in, 121–22, 123, 127–28, 130, 132
sources of post-1950 sections of, 164
summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal in, 212, 213, 214–16, 219, 223–24, 225
unexpurgated edition of, 26, 53, 73, 74, 76–77, 86, 101, 120, 141, 165, 178–79, 181, 217
Cassin, Ricardo, 31, 37, 56, 65, 198–99
Cenotaph Corner, 149
Chabert, Pierre, 181
Chacraraju, 65, 195, 197
Chacraraju East, 196, 198
Chamonix, 15, 22, 24, 25, 42, 51, 57, 58, 59, 61, 62, 65, 82, 109, 121, 123–24, 128, 146, 150, 158, 160, 167–68, 169, 178, 188, 189, 195, 203, 208, 209, 217, 218, 219
as birthplace of mountaineering, 34
guides and, 34–35
Herzog as mayor of, 140
Charlet, Armand, 28, 85–86
Chomolonzo, 144, 195
Cima Grande, 37, 49
Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, 142
class bias, 30
Climbing, 181
Club Alpin Français (CAF), 25, 34, 42, 123, 218
Himalayan Committee of, 29, 30, 31, 32, 46, 85, 138, 180, 182
Coast Range, 63
Col du Caïman, 36, 58, 83, 197
Col de Peuterey, 83
Col des Montets, 163
Collège des Praz, 51
Colorado Outward Bound School, 40
Colorado River, 155
Colorado Rockies, 23, 38–39, 40, 63, 67
Comité de l’Himalaya, see Himalayan Committee
Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, 203
Lachenal in, 65, 159–60
Rébuffat in, 34, 36, 156
Terray in, 60
Compagnie Stéphane, 54, 59, 205
“connaissance devenue conscience,” 141
Conquest of Fitzroy, The (Azéma), 67–68
Conquistadors of the Useless (Terray), 64–65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70–71, 72, 73, 74–75, 80–81, 82–83, 84, 88–89, 90–92, 179, 188, 192–94, 202, 207, 210, 215
Couzy as portrayed in, 142, 143, 144, 145
descent of Annapurna in, 97, 98, 99, 103, 105, 111, 113–14
Lachenal as portrayed in, 162, 170–71, 191
manuscript of, 208–9
as partial fiction, 109
publication of, 197
style of, 197–98
Terray’s authorship of, 206, 208–9
Contamine, André, 86, 163–64, 165, 167
Contamines, 65
Continental Divide, 23
Coquoz (Swiss alpinist), 162, 163
cordée, 83, 92, 113
definition of, 59, 66
partnership of Lachenal and Terray as, 66, 68, 73, 74, 78, 170, 189
summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal as, 225
Cordillera Blanca, 196
Cordillera Vilcabamba, 196
Cornuau, Philippe, 164, 167, 172, 182, 219
Cossé-Brissac, Marie-Pierre de, 85
Coupé, Serge, 205
Couttet, James, 168
Couttet, Mauricette, 160, 164–65
Couzy, Jean, 49, 71, 72, 90, 95–96, 97, 108, 114, 115–16, 117, 121, 130, 133, 142–46, 197, 210, 219
Annapurna role of, 78–79, 142
death of, 144–45, 193
mountain climbing experience and ability of, 142–43
post-Annapurna climbing career of, 16, 65, 78, 143–44, 193, 195
Couzy, Lise, 79, 143, 145–46
crampons, 120
Creagh Dhu, 148–49
Croix de Guerre, 84
Dambush Khola, 47, 53
Dauphiné Libéré, 181
débandade, 174
Deborah, Mount, 67, 188, 198, 200, 201
Deck, Claude, 182
de Gaulle, Charles, 22, 84, 100, 140, 180, 210
dehydration, 120
Delhi, 129, 131–32, 173
Dent Gérard, 57, 58
Devies, Lucien, 30–33, 43, 46, 54, 131, 135, 137–38, 147, 181, 182, 185
as chief of Club Alpin Français, 29
in expurgating of Carnets, 25, 53, 123, 165, 166, 172–74, 186, 224
oath of obedience demanded by, 31–33
official positions held by, 32
Rébuffat on, 33
Dexedrine, 120
Dhaulagiri, 68, 70, 71, 72, 174, 176
first ascent of, 53
height of, 46
reconnoitering of, 46–48, 53–54, 68–69
Dimanche 8, 180–81
Dolomites, 31, 37, 142
D’Ormesson, Jean, 185
Droites, 167
drugs, 120–21, 122, 123, 125, 132, 175
Dufour litter, 121–22
Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales, 82
Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme, 180, 182
Ecrins, 34
Editions Guérin, 178–79
Eiger, 31, 38, 40, 66, 68, 142, 146, 190, 197, 198, 210
Eiselin, Max, 53
Elbert, Mount, 38
Elk Range, 40
“enchanted garden,” 37, 41, 83, 147
Entre Terre et Ciel (Rébuffat), 41, 147, 148
Equipe, L’, 140, 142, 181
Etoiles et Tempêtes, see Starlight and Storm
Everest, Mount, 16, 23, 29, 45, 96, 115, 119, 120, 159, 217, 223
Faucigny, Le, 185
Fédération Française
de la Montagne (FFM), 32, 181, 193, 219
Figaro, Le, 127, 181, 185, 186
Finch, George, 120
First on the Rope (Frison-Roche), 35
Fischer, Scott, 223
Fitzroy, 65, 67–68, 194, 196, 198, 199, 220
Flatirons, 63
Foca camera, 116, 137, 218
Fontainebleau, 203
footgear, 96, 119–20, 176–77
Forces Motrices de Chancy-Pougny, 140
Fourès, Leonce, 219–20
Foutharkey, 187
France, 29, 35, 133
Francillon, Claude, 179, 187
Franco, Jean, 52
French mountain climbers, 16–17, 30–31, 52, 78, 150, 216
Frendo, Edouard, 56
Freney Pillar, 154
Fresnay Glacier, 197
Frison-Roche, Roger, 35
Frost, Robert, 105
frostbite, 87, 110, 116, 159
equipment and, 96–97, 119–20
of Herzog, 15, 19, 21, 97, 100, 101–2, 104, 116, 117, 119, 121, 213, 222, 223
of Lachenal, 15, 21, 99, 100, 103, 104–5, 116, 119, 121, 123, 127, 213, 222, 223
novocaine as treatment for, 21, 121
of Sherpas, 96
whipping as treatment for, 19, 100
funeral rites, 49–50, 52
Gamper, Elisabeth, 85
gangrene, 132
Gasherbrum I, 16, 32, 216
Gaston Rébuffat: Une Vie pour la Montagne (Ballu), 26, 32, 33, 41, 73, 76, 101, 141, 153, 179, 180, 217
Gaullists, 30, 54
Gaussot, Phillippe, 181
George, Bernard, 130, 187, 221
German mountain climbers, 16, 17, 31, 216
Germany, Nazi, 30, 35
Gorakhpur, 129, 130
Grade V pitches, 74
Grandes Aventures de l’Himalaya, Les (Herzog), 81, 152–53
Grandes Jorasses, 31, 37, 51–52, 55–56
see also Walker Spur
Great Britain, 29, 141
see also British mountain climbers
Grenoble, 56, 59, 206, 207
Grépon, 29, 58, 61, 72
Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), 32
Guérin, Michel, 24, 25, 27, 41, 52, 86, 174, 187, 188, 204, 205, 208–9, 210–11, 218, 219
unexpurgated edition of Carnets published by, 26, 101, 141, 165, 178–79, 181, 217
guides, 58, 61, 106
amateur climbers vs., 29–30, 82
Chamonix and, 34–35
Lachenal on, 62
see also Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix
“Guido, the sardine tin!,” 67–68, 194
Gurkha Right Hand, 131
Gurkhas, 16, 46, 131
Hale, Matt, 201
Hall, Rob, 223
Harrer, Heinrich, 31, 198
Harvard Mountaineering Club (HMC), 63
Hayes Range, 67
Heckmair, Andreas, 190
Heimermann, Benoît, 140, 142, 185, 186, 187
Herzog, Gérard, 25, 43, 49, 53, 83, 123, 164, 165, 166, 172, 174, 178, 182, 187, 224
Herzog, Maurice, 71, 72, 77, 81–86, 135–42, 147, 164, 165–66, 175, 178, 179, 188, 193, 195, 206
amputations of, 21, 123–24, 125, 126, 128–30, 133–34
background of, 81–82
camera of, 116, 137, 218
character of, 81–82, 101, 209–10
chosen as expedition leader, 28–30, 82–83, 85
corporate position of, 30, 82, 140
in decision to attempt Annapurna, 68–69, 173
in descent from summit, 19–21, 97–100, 101–18
differing accounts of descent given by, 100–118
exclusive rights to expedition story held by, 25, 43, 135
in expurgating Carnets, 25, 53, 165–66, 172–74, 186
in failed Northwest Spur attempt, 74–76
frostbitten feet and hands of, 15, 19, 21, 97, 100, 101–2, 104, 116, 117, 119, 121, 213, 222, 223
as GHM secretary, 32
gloves lost by, 19, 101–2, 104, 121, 223
ice axe of, 124
identification with Christ by, 124, 125–26, 139, 185
leadership qualities of, 26, 30, 80–81, 82–83, 89, 177, 209, 224
Legion of Honor awarded to, 159
Lise Couzy on, 79
marriages and children of, 85
mountain climbing experience and ability of, 16, 28, 80, 82–83, 89, 177
mystical character of, 126
“new life” of, 125–26, 133
on oath of obedience, 32, 33
physical appearance of, 81, 101
public career of, 22, 140–41
Rébuffat’s bitterness toward, 76
reputation of, 22, 26, 137–38, 139–40, 141, 185, 192
in response to revisionist criticisms, 101, 182–85, 186–87, 216–17
in return from Annapurna, 21, 119–34
Roberts’s 1999 interview with, 100–103, 121, 126, 139, 141–42
on Sherpas, 46
and summit climb of Lachenal, 13–16, 17–19, 26, 92–94, 95–97, 212–25
summit photos of, 18, 21, 136, 173, 180, 215, 216, 217–20
trance-like state of mind of, 15, 19, 21, 107, 110, 121, 213, 214, 223
as tuteur to Lachenal family, 25, 171–72, 189, 210
World War II experience of, 30, 84, 184
writings of, 81; see also Annapurna; Autre Annapurna, L’
High, 181
Hillary, Sir Edmund, 45, 141, 159, 187
Himalaya, 30, 65, 119, 143, 196, 202
alienness of, 175–76
classic expedition narratives about, 23
first man to climb all 8,000–meter peaks of, 223
history of climbing expeditions in, 16, 45–46
reconnoitering in, 45–46
world’s highest mountains located in, 16
Himalayan Committee, 29, 30, 31, 32, 46, 85, 138, 180, 182
Hitler, Adolf, 31
Horay, Pierre, 167
Horizons Gagnés, Les (Rébuffat), 147, 157
Hôtel des Alpes, 42
Houston, Charley, 40
Huantsan, 195
Hunt, Sir John, 23
Hunter, Mount, 198
Huntington, Mount, 199, 201–2, 210
Ichac, Marcel, 47, 81, 103, 112, 117, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131
film shot on Annapurna by, 136–37, 180
previous Himalayan climbing experience of, 16, 32, 46
Rébuffat searched for film by, 179, 219
India, 16, 29, 43, 45, 80
Indian Survey maps, 46–47, 53, 70
Irvine, Andrew, 29, 115
Italian mountain climbers, 17, 31
Italy, 65
Jannu, 65, 196, 198
“jardin féerique,” see “enchanted garden”
Jensen, Don, 64, 65, 66–67, 188, 190, 200–202
Jeunesse et Montagne (JM) (Youth and Mountains), 35–37, 54, 58, 65
Kali Gandaki, 71
Kanchenjunga, 16, 149, 196
Kathmandu, 130, 179
Kennedy, John F., 141
Kléber-Colombes, 30, 82, 131, 140, 218, 219, 220
kletterschuhe, 39
Kor, Layton, 40
Kravchenko, Irène, 135–36
K2, 16, 40, 45, 162
K2: The Savage Mountain (Bates and Houston), 40
Kurz, Marcel, 216
Lachenal, Adèle, 43, 61–62, 65, 123, 128, 133, 160, 161, 162, 164, 169, 171
Lachenal, Arlette, 188, 190
Lachenal, Jean-Claude, 25, 26, 159, 160, 165–66, 171, 178–79, 187, 188–90, 219
Lachenal, Louis “Biscante,” 22, 23, 27, 47–48, 60–62, 72, 80, 85, 90, 142, 145, 148, 158–91, 193, 195, 197, 198, 209, 210
amputations of, 21, 125, 128–30, 132–33, 158
background of, 60
in Belgian Congo, 162–63
car driving of, 160–62, 170–71
chalet of, 188–89
deat
h of, 25, 168–70
decision not to turn back on summit climb of, 15, 222–25
in descent from summit, 19–21, 98–100, 101–18, 174
diary and memoir of, see Carnets du Vertige
diary manuscript of, 190–91
disenchantment of, 43, 49, 77
in failed Northwest Spur attempt, 73–74, 75, 77
frostbitten feet of, 15, 21, 99, 100, 103, 104–5, 116, 119, 121, 123, 127, 213, 222, 223
as guide, 30, 65, 82
Herzog’s portrayal of, 77–78, 86, 104, 113–14, 115, 160, 162–63, 169–70, 177, 186–87, 221–22
honesty of, 218
impatience of, 48, 60, 65, 78, 109, 123, 129, 177
in Jeunesse et Montagne, 65
Legion of Honor awarded to, 159
mountain climbing experience and ability of, 16–17, 18, 28, 54, 55, 61, 62, 65, 66, 68, 72, 142, 170
oath of obedience taken by, 32, 33
origin of nickname of, 60
pacifism of, 54, 65
physical appearance of, 61
post-Annapurna climbing of, 141, 158–60, 162–63, 165–69
post-Annapurna mental state of, 160, 170–71
probationary status of on Annapurna expedition, 86
Rébuffat’s relationship with, 34, 49, 51–52
return from Annapurna of, 21, 119–34, 158
risk as addiction of, 60
sacrifice made by, 224–25
snowblindness of, 117
summit climb of Herzog and, 13–16, 17–19, 26, 92–94, 95, 97, 212–25
summit photos and, 136, 173, 180, 218–20
Terray’s relationship with, 48, 54–56, 58, 65, 68, 72, 73–74, 78, 170, 189, 190–91
women and, 164–65
written out of Annapurna story, 137, 152, 185
Lambert, Raymond, 15, 159, 175
Legion of Honor, 126, 159, 181, 210
Les Houches, 59, 84
Lété forest, 124–27
Libération, 181, 185, 216
Lindbergh, Anne Morrow, 85
Logan, Mount, 63
Longs Peak, 23, 63
Lyon, 81
McKinley, Mount, 64, 148, 188, 199, 201
maggots, 131, 134
Magnone, Guido, 67–68, 194
Makalu, 65, 78, 143, 144, 145, 176, 193, 195, 198, 200, 205
Mallory, George Leigh, 29, 115, 120
Malraux, André, 141
Man Without a Head, The, 128
Maroon Bells, 39
Marseille, 33, 35, 59, 126
Marseille, Archbishop of, 139
Martinetti, Marc, 203
Matterhorn, 29, 37, 164
Maxiton, 120–21
Mazeaud, Pierre, 185
Messner, Reinhold, 141, 223
Michel, Georges, 51–52
Miristi Khola, 14, 17, 71, 72, 78, 122
Moine, 55
Monde, Le, 179, 180, 181, 182–85, 187, 217, 218
monsoon, 14, 18, 53, 80, 90, 92, 105, 122
Montagne et Alpinisme, La, 169–70, 182, 201