Just a French Guy Cooking
Page 3
Parsley A fairly strong herb that adds freshness and substance to a dish. I always use the Italian flat-leaf variety as it’s more aromatic.
Food pairing: mussels, chicken, bulgur wheat, liver, butter, lemon, garlic
Mint Fresh, with a menthol kick, this is a powerful herb. Use it sparingly as you can ruin a dish if you add too much. Use it quickly as the leaves go black easily and will spoil other herbs that come into contact with it.
Food pairing: hummus, melon, lentils, feta, lamb, peas, coconut
Basil Along with oregano, this herb really makes me think of Italy. It has a marvellous freshness (more delicate than mint) with hints of aniseed and lemon.
Food pairing: pasta, peanuts, mango, strawberries, courgettes [zucchini], spicy beef
Coriander [cilantro] Delicate but pungent, this is a double-edged herb! I adore its lemon and undeniably Asian and Eastern aroma but some people detest it.
Food pairing: pork, chilli, crab, lemongrass, pineapple, cucumber, avocado
Chive This has a lovely flavour, which reminds you of the best bits of onions and garlic. If you don’t have any, use the green parts of spring onions [scallions].
Food pairing: dumplings, lobster, eggs, calamari, mushrooms, butter, lettuce
Dill
With its slight aniseed flavour, delicate dill, used in Scandinavian cuisine, is reminiscent of fennel.
Food pairing: pickled veg, eggs, salmon, cream, yogurt, cauliflower
And as a bonus – chervil
More subtly flavoured than parsley, with less aniseed than tarragon but as delicate and fragile as dill, chervil is perhaps my favourite fresh herb in French cuisine.
#HACK
6 dried herbs
Thyme, rosemary, oregano, and other herbs that grow in hot climates, all retain their aroma extremely well when dried. They can also be stored for much longer than when they are fresh so are very practical in the kitchen. Here is my herbal dream team.
Thyme Those super-small, pointy leaves have a pungent but fresh aroma that’s slightly tangy, almost citrusy, reminding me of lemons, oranges and lemongrass. Thyme is a staple part of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines.
Food pairing: black peppercorns, steak, bone marrow, garlic, chicken, figs, potatoes, any roasted vegetables
Rosemary Stronger than thyme, rosemary’s silvery needle-like leaves are also firmer so it’s necessary to chop the leaves more finely or, if using whole sprigs, remove them after a dish is cooked. Rosemary is also brilliant in a marinade.
Food pairing: lamb, olives, peaches, new potatoes, [bell] peppers, almonds
Sage This has a distinctive flavour and I’d have trouble eating it raw as it’s too strong for me. However, when it’s cooked or fried, sage enhances many dishes with its unique character and flavour.
Food pairing: gnocchi, onions, squash, polenta, rabbit, sausages, wheat, capers
Bay leaf Ideal for marinades a its aroma reminds me of two things – the enormous bay bush in my grandmother’s garden, and Coca Cola. Life is strange, isn’t it? A word of advice, remove the bay leaf after cooking, as you can’t eat it.
Food pairing: osso buco, any stew, pears, white wine, honey, chickpeas, soups, sauces
Oregano When I think of this herb, I think pizza. Bunches of oregano hanging by their stalks make great decorations in my kitchen (it’s me who does the housework!).
Food pairing: tomatoes, pizza (marinara being the quintessential example), yogurt, spicy dishes, black beans
Savory Less well known than the others, which is a pity, because this herb has a wonderful aroma – peppery, spicy, halfway between thyme and garlic… It’s said to be an aphrodisiac as well, so it really has everything going for it.
Food pairing: lentils, green beans, broad [fava] beans, chicken, root vegetables
Cold green lentils sausage and Chinese
I’ve given this bistro classic a new twist by replacing smoked salmon, which the French traditionally use, with smoked Cantonese sausage. The vinaigrette is there to cut through the fattiness of the sausage, bringing the dish to life and making it punchier.
Serves 4
For the salad
300g [12/3 cups] dried green lentils – I’m being totally objective here when I say that French green lentils are without doubt the best for this dish
4 links of smoked Chinese sausage
6 radishes, sliced into rounds
6 spring onions [scallions], sliced into rounds, keeping the green and white parts separate
For the vinaigrette
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp mustard
a knife point of crushed garlic
salt and pepper
The lentils don’t need pre-soaking – just put them in a pan of cold water without any salt and boil for 25 minutes, adding the Chinese sausages after 10 minutes. Drain and leave the lentils and sausages to cool and then chill them in the refrigerator until you’re ready to make the salad.
During this time, make the vinaigrette by whisking together all the ingredients, making sure you add the mustard or you won’t get a stable emulsion.
In a bowl, mix together the lentils, the sausages cut into rounds, the sliced radishes, the white part of the spring onions and the vinaigrette. Serve with the green part of the onions scattered over.
Did you know?
The Cantonese name for the sausages is Lap Cheong. Since they are dried, cured and smoked, they are usually sold sous vide so will keep for over a year, if unopened. It’s super-easy to spot them in an oriental food store as the pack will have written on it – are you OK with that?
Colourful carrot salad
This recipe is inspired by Morocco, whose cuisine is one of north Africa’s finest and is certainly one of my favourites. Full of tempting aromas and spices, it often combines sweet and savoury flavours, as it does here.
Serves 4
4 Tbsp natural Greek yogurt
a few drops of orange flower water
a good squeeze of fresh orange juice
1 orange
salt and pepper
6 carrots of different colours, or just use orange ones if you want (but that’s a bit dull!)
chopped pistachios and ground cinnamon, for dusting
flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
In a bowl, mix the yogurt with the orange flower water, the orange juice and a little grated zest from the orange (aka the peel). Season with salt and pepper and set to one side.
Cut the carrots lengthwise into very thin ribbons: the easiest way to do this is with a speed [swivel] peeler. Slice the top and bottom off the orange and stand it upright. Using a small sharp knife, cut away the thick skin and pith, starting at the top and cutting down to the base. Remove the segments of orange flesh – they’re called ‘supremes’ – leaving behind the white membranes.
Arrange the carrots and orange segments on a serving plate, lightly drizzle over the yogurt dressing and sprinkle with chopped pistachios and a pinch of ground cinnamon. Garnish with flat-leaf parsley.
REMEMBER!
A speed peeler is totally brilliant for shaving off really thin ribbons. I use it all the time with all kinds of vegetables when I want to give them a whole new identity in salads.
Herring with warm potato salad
Classic stuff, but this recipe teaches you about pairing cold and hot. Definitely one of my favourite starters as it’s simple but stylish. The idea behind this classic bistro recipe is to play on the contrast of the hot potato with the cold marinated herring.
Serves 4
4 smoked herring (or kipper) fillets
2 shallots, finely chopped
4 small carrots, sliced into thin rounds
4 sprigs of fresh dill, finely chopped
1 Tbsp whole spices for marinating fish, e.g. fennel seeds, coriander seeds, black or pink peppercorns
3 bay leaves
6 Tbsp neutral flavoured oil – if you have walnut or hazelnut
oil in your storecupboard, add a few drops as well
2 Tbsp cider vinegar or white wine vinegar
4 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and left whole
To finish
dill sprigs and shallot slices
An hour before serving, put the herring fillets in a shallow dish with the shallots, carrots, dill, whole spices and bay leaves. Spoon over the oil and vinegar, cover the dish with clingfilm [plastic wrap] and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
Cook the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water for 20–30 minutes, according to their size, until tender. The classic technique insists you boil the potatoes with their skins on – and then burn your fingers peeling them! So, I peel them first before cooking – sacrilege, I know.
Drain the potatoes, cut them into 5-mm [¼-in] thick slices and arrange on four serving plates. Slice the herrings like smoked salmon, but in thicker slices, and add to the potatoes with the carrots. Scatter with small sprigs of dill and shallot slices and then pour a dash of the marinade over each serving.
Pictures on 1, 2 and 3.
Niçoise salad with anchovies, tomatoes, artichokes and broad beans
This salad perfectly sums up the Mediterranean cooking I love so much. It’s simple, fresh, seasonal and popular but OH SO controversial. The arguments over the correct way to serve it could probably start a war. One thing everybody does agree on, though, is that cooked stuff should be left out.
Serves 4
6 medium-sized tomatoes
salt
3 eggs
1 green [bell] pepper
4 radishes
2 spring onions [scallions]
1kg [2lb 4oz] young fresh broad [fava] bean pods – if you can’t find these, quickly boil 250g [9oz] frozen broad beans but tell no one
4 small purple artichokes
1 garlic clove, peeled
12–16 anchovy fillets
olive oil
Start by cutting the tomatoes into wedges. Put the wedges on kitchen paper [paper towels], sprinkle with salt and let them drain for a few minutes. This concentrates the flavour of the tomatoes and makes the finished salad less watery.
Boil the eggs for 8 minutes and then drain and cool them in a bowl of cold water. Peel and cut the eggs into wedges
Remove the stalk from the green pepper and cut into thin, round slices, discarding the core and seeds. Slice the radishes thinly and finely chop the spring onions.
Remove the beans from their pods. When they are young and fresh they are usually fine to eat raw and don’t need cooking.
Cut off the artichoke stalks, leaving about 1cm [½in]. Remove any tough outer leaves, trim off the top thirds and cut away any fibrous bits around the base with a small sharp knife. Slice the artichokes in half, remove any hairs and slice them. Drop immediately into a bowl of cold water with a squeeze of lemon juice added to it to stop them discolouring.
Rub a large serving dish with the garlic clove so it gives you a kiss, not a slap. Arrange the tomatoes, eggs, pepper slices, radishes, beans and artichokes in the dish and scatter over the spring onions and anchovies. Serve drizzled with olive oil – there’s no need to add vinegar as acidity comes from the salad ingredients.
Frisée salad with bacon bits, croûtons and a maple syrup dressing
The poached eggs are optional but they definitely add that all important final flourish to the salad.
The famous ‘frisée aux lardons’ – now that’s a salad with style! Hot, cold, crunchy, crisp, silky, salty, bitter, sweet... It ticks all the taste bud boxes in one go. And, if you add any cooked potatoes that are left over, you’ll have a complete meal.
Serves 4
a little oil for frying
6 bacon rashers [slices], cut into large lardons
½ medium-sized onion, roughly chopped
150g [5oz] stale bread, cut into small cubes (honestly, I never have any stale bread and there’s never time to leave it to go stale, so just use the bread you have)
4 eggs (the fresher they are, the easier they will be to poach)
4 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp maple syrup
8 Tbsp rapeseed or groundnut [peanut] oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
salt and pepper
1 large frisée lettuce [French curly endive]
chopped fresh chives
Heat a little oil in a frying pan [skillet] over medium heat and fry the bacon lardons, onion and bread cubes. The idea is that these last two get acquainted as soon as they meet.
Heat water in a saucepan until it comes to the boil and then turn the heat down so the water is just simmering gently. Break an egg into a mug and slide it very carefully into the water. Poach for 3–4 minutes and then lift out the egg with a slotted spoon and drain it on kitchen paper [paper towels]. If you’re struggling with this, the best YouTube video showing you how to do it is the one by English chef Heston Blumenthal. Repeat with the remaining three eggs.
Put the vinegar, maple syrup, oil, mustard, salt and pepper in a jar. Screw the lid on the jar and shake it well to combine the ingredients and make a smooth, tasty dressing.
Wash and drain the frisée lettuce thoroughly.
Toss the lettuce with the dressing until the leaves are coated and divide them between 4 serving plates. Spoon the bacon, onion and bread cubes on top and sprinkle over the chives. Finally, place a poached egg in the centre of each serving. Leave diners to cut into the eggs so the runny yolks ooze over the salad.
If you can’t find frisée...
Use another type of salad but choose one with character i.e. bitter and crunchy, as it is crucial for getting the balance of the recipe right. I’d suggest, dandelion leaves (greens), cos (romaine) lettuce, wild chicory (endive)...
Spring greens coleslaw
This recipe is inspired by the soul food of America’s Deep South, where the dishes not only showcase simple local ingredients but they are also made with so much love. To me that’s real cooking. Ordinary coleslaw is too rich for me. Despite being lighter, this is still comfort food but with just a hint of soul.
Serves lots of people – it’s great for a party
For the dressing
8 Tbsp full-fat yogurt (dairy-free yogurt works fine too)
2 tsp mild mustard (or Dijon if you want the dressing to have more of a kick)
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
salt and pepper
For the coleslaw
300g [10½oz] fresh spring [collard] greens
¼ head of white cabbage
100g [2 cups] soft salad leaves, e.g. baby kale or spinach
100g [2 cups] peppery salad leaves, e.g. watercress, rocket [arugula], dandelion leaves [greens]
1 carrot
2 large apples, cored
400g [3 cups] corn kernels
½ bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
Start by making the dressing. Mix the yogurt with the mustard, add the cider vinegar (just right for this light dressing) and season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the flavour according to your taste. I often make this in larger quantities, as it will easily keep in the refrigerator for 5–6 days.
For the coleslaw, slice the greens, cabbage, soft salad and peppery salad finely and grate the carrot and apples. Place the prepared vegetables and fruit, the corn and chopped parsley in a large bowl, pour over the dressing and mix well. I always do this with my hands as I can crush the salad a little at the same time so the dressing permeates the fruit and vegetables and their texture will be softer.
A recommendation
I discovered soul food from a book that I absolutely adore – ‘Vibration Cooking: Or, the Travel Notes of a GeeChee Girl’ by Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor, who is herself descended from slaves.
Panzanella, or the art of the stale bread salad
This salad means summer to me as it is food that sustains the body and refreshes the mind in equal measure. The inspiration for the salad comes, of course, from Italy but by making it with leftover
sourdough bread rather than ciabatta, I get the feeling – mistaken, no doubt – that I’m making it a tiny bit my own.
Serves 2
300g [10½oz] sourdough bread, slightly stale, or – more realistically – a bit past its best
6 tomatoes
½ cucumber
1 green or red [bell] pepper
½ red onion
salt and pepper
1–2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
olive oil
small bunch of fresh basil or tarragon
50g [2oz] pecorino cheese
Cut the bread into 1–2-cm (–¾-in) cubes and, most important, don’t throw away any crumbs as they can be used to thicken the dressing.
Cut the tomatoes, cucumber and pepper into pieces of a similar size to the bread.
Chop the onion very finely and plunge it into a bowl of very cold, salted water. This cools the ardour of the onion, making it less hot, and also crisps it up.
In a large salad bowl, mix the red wine vinegar with three times as much olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add all the chopped ingredients and the reserved breadcrumbs and massage everything together with your hands so the vinaigrette infuses the bread and vegetables.
Finally, shred the basil or tarragon leaves, crumble the pecorino and scatter both over the salad.
A CONFES SION
I always finish by drinking all the juices that have mixed together and formed a ‘sauce’ at the bottom of the bowl.
My thing
I love making this salad without using a knife. I shred, break and crumble all the ingredients with my hands and then knead them together a little. This gives the salad a very natural look, almost a bit wild, and that relaxes me.