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Roumeli

Page 26

by Patrick Leigh Fermor


  Bánikos, which, in Greek slang, means “nubile” or “ripe for coition,” denotes, in boliaric, “big,” “good,” or “important.” The only other adjective on my scribbled list (but there must be lots more) is stíliota, “furtive” or “wary,” akin to the key-word stíliane! “Look out!” “Beware!” The recorded verbs are few. Anisévo, “I grow angry”; tchmekiázo, “I sleep”; glavízo, “I run”; photáo (related to “light”?), “I know,” “I see,” or “look out”; panteládo, “I talk nonsense”; karkévo, “I hit”; manízo, “I steal”; mandarono, “I make a fool of”; banízo and sarafizo, “I understand”; siorévo, “I get drunk”; stíliano, “I beware”; spartáo, “I run away”; tzoumízo, “I kill”; gáskino, “I laugh” and kranízei, “it rains.”

  Several words suggest that this vocabulary is more up-to-date than it might at first appear: grobaíoi, for instance, meaning “guerrillas,” and groúmpos, a communist, irresistibly suggest E.L.A.S. But matzoúkia (literally “stick bearers”) for “beggars” and shoreftis for “a thief,” sound older. “A doctor” is mantzóunas, patéllos is “a policeman,” malátos and lépho are “a priest”; and maletchko—plainly from the Slav—is “a child”; hence maletchkás for “a teacher”; but what about khakhás, meaning the same thing? Verdílis and verdílo, are “father” and “mother,” ingótina and gotiméno mean “married,” got and gotina (Slav again), are “lady” and “gentleman”—a bourgeois couple, parents to a gotopoulo, or young gent. But litzko and liókia also mean a bourgeois figure, “a mug” perhaps, married to a matzio, or a shveri, “a woman,” who soon becomes a houmoúrou, “a mother” to a houmouráki, or “girl.”

  Here also are a few of the mildly improper words in the vocabulary. Perdikis, the Greek for a young partridge, is “the rump” or “behind,” havalóu, the female pudendum, lióka its convex masculine complement; manganízo is “I fornicate”; souravlízo, which normally means “playing a reed pipe,” here means “I urinate”; kouphróno and tzarmízo, identical in sense, are its solider companion verbs and koúphrisma and tzármisma their end products; tramalízo and lazinízo both mean to break wind and tramálisma is the same wind once broken. One or two nouns, proper in every way, seemed even more enigmatic than their fellows: Gramki, for instance, means “an Albanian”; could it be some little-known tribe? surely the Ghegs, the Tosks, the Mirdites, the Liaps and the Tchams are enough...? And Eskebez for the Peloponnese: eski, Turkish for old, but bez...?Kina—“China”—meant “safety.” Why? What Cathayan refuge?...Queerest of all is the word for Athens: Ghiona. This is the demotic name for Mt. Oeta, a hundred miles from Athens or more, where Hercules, in the shirt of Nessus, died in torment. But the ghioni is the demotic word for the Athene noctua, the little owl of Pallas, the ancient emblem of the goddess and of her city and the theme of many popular legends. It sits askew on branches and roof trees with its round-eyed head twisted full face under its frown just as it appears on old Athenian silver coins. The note of its sad, intermittent and oddly moving little pipe still sounds in the lanes.[2] Could this cryptic name have some subconscious, underground link with the city’s small companion and symbol? Going too far, perhaps.

  [1] Unhelpfully, the sound in Greek suggests both a linden-tree and a banner.

  [2] Less than formerly, alas! Komizo glavkes stin Athena, “I am taking owls to Athens,” is the Greek equivalent of coals to Newcastle. The glavx is generic; it is the ghioni, I think, which is meant. I have heard larger owls hooting in the city (or, off-hand, I think I have) but I have never seen one.

  INDEX

  The links below refer to the page references of the printed edition of Reveille in Washington. While the numbers do not correspond to the page numbers or locations on an electronic reading device, they are retained as they can convey useful information regarding the position and amount of space devoted to an indexed entry. Because the size of a page varies in reflowable documents such as this e-book, it may be necessary to scroll down to find the referenced entry after following a link.

  Acarnania, 37, 159–60, 163–4, 180, 192, 239

  Acheloös River, 19, 163–4, 242, 245

  Acheron River, 67, 159, 180, 242

  Acroceraunian Mountains, 22, 180, 237

  Actium, 160

  Adriatic Sea, 5, 12, 105, 108, 180

  Aegean Sea, 96, 105, 138, 155, 174, 220, 238

  Aegina, 34, 241

  Aemilian Way, 12, 54

  Aetolia, 31, 83, 164, 176, 180, 191–2, 194, 199, 204, 210, 230, 239

  Agrapha Mountains, 21, 35, 41, 50

  Agrinion, 160, 225

  Aitolikon, 164

  Ai-vali, 196

  Akritas, Digenis (epic), 237

  Alamein, El, 77, 140

  Albania and Albanians, 10, 19, 22, 34, 62, 67, 133, 143, 155, 167, 180, 196, 201, 226, 246, 251; Albanovlachs, 19, 35; language, 19, 32, 62, 67, 118, 240

  Alexander the Great, 37, 44, 111, 230, 238

  Alexander II, Tsar, 7

  Alexandria, 237

  Alexandroupolis, 7, 12, 34, 67

  Ali of Yanina, 21, 76

  Ali Pasha, 19, 36, 154, 159, 180

  Aliacmon River, 241

  Alphaeus River, 242

  Ambellakia, 195

  Ambracian Gulf, 5, 160, 180, 241

  America and Americans, 22–3, 95, 103, 112, 124, 136, 172, 181, 219, 249

  Amorgos, 204, 242

  Amphilochia, 241

  Amphissa, 195, 237

  Amurath, Sultan, 38, 91

  Anacreon (poet), 238

  Anaphe, 242

  Anatolia, 10, 105, 237

  Ancel, J. (writer), 246

  Andoni, 63–6

  Andreas (driver), 188, 190–4

  Andrew, Father, 202, 204, 206

  Andros, 241

  Angelina, Ducaina Palaeologina, 90

  Angelos, Caesar Alexis, 91

  Anoyeia, 137, 148, 208

  Anthimos, Father, 98

  Antikorpha, 21

  Antikythera, 241

  Antirion, 191

  Aoös Ravine, 65, 192

  Apsaras family, 82

  Apulia, 238

  Aráchova, 215, 237

  Aravantinos, 245

  Arcadia and Arcadians, 54, 144, 197, 237, 240

  Arkadi, Abbey of, 134, 240

  Armatoles, 107, 154, 180

  Aromans, 32

  Arta, 160

  Asia Minor, 9, 10, 37, 99, 105, 119, 140, 189, 230

  Aspromonte, 19, 238

  Astakos (formerly Dragomestri), 157–9, 161–3, 170

  Athens and Athenians, 7–8, 24, 39, 54, 56, 61, 68, 97, 101, 104, 110–12, 116, 119, 124–6, 130–2, 144, 149, 154, 157, 180, 188, 195, 197, 200, 206, 211, 220, 224, 239, 251

  Athos, Mount, 55, 76, 78–9, 83, 89–90, 96, 237

  Attica, 45, 56, 195, 222, 239

  Auden, W. H. (quoted), 38

  Avdela, 241

  Averoff, 56, 69

  Avgo, 242

  Azov, Sea of, 230

  Baïraktáris (Chief of Police), 189

  Bajazet the Thunderbolt, 38, 91, 99

  Balkans, 5, 7, 10, 18, 26, 32, 33, 37, 90, 155, 190, 194, 201, 203, 220, 229, 245

  Barnabas (hermit), 88

  Bassae, 240

  Benedict (monk), 95

  Bessarabia, 230

  Bessarion, Father, 73–6, 80–1, 85–6, 92–3, 95, 102

  Bithynia, 10, 18, 163, 238

  Black Sea, 8, 10, 54, 144, 230

  Blunt, Wilfred Scawen, 165–6

  Bohemond, 99

  Boliaric vocabulary, 202–3, 205, 215, 248–51

  Bosnia, 10

  Bosphorus, 5, 104

  Botsaris, Marko, 155, 179

  Brooke, Rupert, 184

  Bulgaria and Bulgarians, 8, 10, 12, 54, 56, 78, 99, 187, 201, 227–8

  Byron, Lord, 24, 159, 162, 164–8, 170–3, 175–83; Ada (daughter), 165, 171; Byron, Lady, 167–8; Childe Harold, 160, 180–1; relics, 167, 170–1, 175–6, 178; shoes, 168, 170–3 1
75–7, 179

  Byzantium and Byzantines, 14, 32, 37–8, 69, 74, 79, 83, 88–91, 99, 104–6, 110, 112, 121, 132, 134, 137, 141, 154, 160, 190–1, 214, 237–8

  Caesarea, 84, 238

  Calvos (poet), 112

  Campbell, John and Sheila, 61; Honour, Family and Patronage, 61

  Cantacuzene family, 83; Antony, 83, 98; John VI, 82–3, 89

  Cappadocia, 10, 78, 198, 238

  Cargese, 238

  Castiglione, 62; Il Cortegiano, 62

  Catalans, 89, 99

  Caucasus Mountains, 144, 230, 238

  Cavafy (poet), 112, 224

  Cephalonia, 159, 162–3, 180, 187, 241

  Chalcis, 241

  Charisis family, 61

  Chios, 196, 239

  Chnarakis, Grigori (Cretan), 15

  Christianity, 40–1, 43, 47, 63, 77, 78, 90, 104–7, 124, 140, 153, 179, 227; Festivals, 41–2, 45–50; Orthodox Church, 11, 41, 49, 75–8, 83, 95–6, 104, 107, 113, 120, 123, 139, 171, 175, 191, 206, 228–9, 232

  Christopher, Father, 71, 74, 80–1, 93, 102

  Chrysanthos, Father, 93

  Churchill, Sir Winston, 207

  Cnidus, 242

  Cocytus River, 67

  Comnene Family, 90; Emperor Alexis, 99

  Constantinople, 8, 10, 12, 38, 90, 104, 108, 110, 196, 230, 237

  Corfu and Corfiots, 61, 66, 197, 241

  Corinth, Gulf of, 5, 105, 159, 164, 191, 195, 201

  Cornaros, Vincentios, 144

  Corone, 242

  Craxton, John, 61

  Crete and Cretans, 15, 22, 28, 35, 49, 53, 56, 83, 89, 103, 116, 133–52, 155–6, 195–6, 212, 214, 238

  Cuckoo, General, 231

  Curzon, Hon. Robert, author of Monasteries of the Levant, 96

  Cyclades, 195, 238

  Cyprus, 181, 240

  Cythera, 241

  Czernovits, 229

  Dacia (now Rumania), 201

  Damaskinos, Archbishop, 206

  Danube, 157, 228–9

  Daphni, 237

  Dardanelles, 10

  Daskaloyannis (Cretan hero), 155

  Delos, 241

  Delphi, 125, 240

  Dermati, 216

  Diakos, Athanasios, 113

  Diamánti, Kyria, 222, 224

  Dimitriades, A. (writer), 246

  Dodecanese, 103, 195, 241

  Dodona, 159, 180, 237

  Dometios (monk), 100

  Dorvitza, 213, 215

  Dousko (monastery), 77

  Dramoudanis, Stephanoyanni, 137, 148

  Ducas, John II, 90

  Dupiani (skete), 88

  Dushan, Stephen, 90; Symeon (half-brother), 90

  Edessa, 241

  Egypt, 77, 181, 196

  Ekaterini, Mother, 94

  Elias, Uncle, 221, 224–30, 233–6

  Elijah (prophet), 41, 78, 209, 236

  England and English, 5, 32, 56, 60, 95, 99, 106, 115, 135–6, 140, 153, 170, 176, 181–2, 185, 187, 192–3, 195, 205–6, 215, 218–19

  Ephtaliotis, Argyris (author of A History of Romiosyne), 153, 156

  Epidaurus, 45

  Epirus, 17, 19, 22, 40, 60–1, 65, 66, 70, 82–3, 90, 105, 133–4, 159–60, 180, 196, 222, 237, 245; Epirotes, 66, 90, 97, 159, 196

  Eugenius the Aetolian, 31

  Euroea, Southern, 195

  Eurotas River, 242

  Eurytanian Mountains, 199, 220, 239

  Evinos River, 191

  Frangokástello, Battle of, 143

  Franks, 79, 99, 105, 115

  Gamba, Count, 178

  Gavdos, 238

  Georgakas, D. (writer), 246

  George, Father, 83

  George II, King, 206

  Germanos, Archbishop, 171

  Germany and Germans, 35, 78–9, 98, 112, 135, 140, 168, 172, 216

  Ghazis, Costa (Yanni), 175, 178–9

  Ghika, Niko (painter), 109, 132

  Gogola, Christo, 63, 66

  Grammos Mountains, 222, 241

  Grecia, Magna, 238

  Greece and Greeks, 5–10, 13–14, 17, 19, 22–4, 26–8, 31–7, 39–41, 44, 47, 50, 52–6, 58, 60–2, 68–71, 75–80, 83–5, 87–95, 99, 103–15, 118, 121–6, 129–34, 136–7, 139–40, 142–5, 149, 151–7, 167–9, 171–6, 179–83, 186–7, 189–91, 193, 195–209, 211–12, 214–15, 218–19, 222, 225, 228–30, 232, 235–40, 242, 245, 248–51

  Gregory (monk), 89

  Hadjimichalis, Angelika (authoress of I Sarakatsáni), 39, 60, 247

  Haskovo, 18

  Hebrus River, 10, 13, 195, 241

  Hellenism and Hellenes, 10, 41–2, 44, 105–6, 110–14, 118–22, 124, 129–32, 152–56, 181, 186, 246; Omens and Sacrifices, 45–7; Spirits and Demons, 42

  Hellespont, 10, 239

  Herakleion, 145

  Hermoupolis, 239

  Hobhouse, John, 159, 177, 180

  Hoeg, Axel, 38, 60, 246

  Holland, Antony, 165, 167

  Holy Ghost (skete), 88, 104

  Holy Trinity (monastery), 86, 100–1

  Houmouri, 215

  Hungarians, 196, 228

  Hydra, 49, 107, 196, 240

  Hymettus, 239

  Icaria, 242

  Iconium, 10, 105, 237

  Iconography, 83, 100

  Ida, Mount, 135, 137–8, 208, 210, 238

  Igoumenitza, 61–2, 66

  Ioasaph (monk), 83, 90–1

  Ionian Islands, 174, 181, 214

  Ionian Sea, 61, 159, 192, 241

  Ios, 242

  Islam, 105

  Italy and Italians, 22, 78–9, 98, 105, 126, 129, 136, 143, 174, 197, 249

  Ithaca, 159, 163, 240

  Jellalludin, Mevlana (Moslem sage), 10, 106

  Jeremiah (twelfth–century hermit), 97–8

  Jerusalem, 74, 99, 175, 216

  Jews, 44, 213, 214

  John of Kastraki, 98

  John, Prester, 45

  Julian the Apostate, 6, 104–5

  Kakosouli Mountains, 22

  Kalabaka, 70, 75, 88, 99–100

  Kalamata, 195, 197, 240

  Kalavryta, 171

  Kalymnos, 103, 196

  Kambia, 216

  Kanaris, 113

  Karagounis (nomads), 9, 19, 67

  Karaïskakis, 50, 113

  Karayiozi (subject of shadow-play), 44, 108–10, 132

  Karditza, 19, 76

  Karkavitza (author of O Zitiános), 194, 217

  Karpenisi (battle), 155, 179, 220

  Karva, 216

  Karytaina, 240

  Kastraki, 72, 88

  Katellanos, Frankos (painter), 83

  Katharévousa (archaic language), 106, 112, 121, 218

  Katsandóni, 20, 35, 50, 63

  Katsáno villages, 245

  Katsimbalis, George, 194

  Katsonis, Lambros, 155

  Kavalla, 241

  Kazis, Yanni (see Ghazis)

  Kephissia, 239

  Khasian Mountains, 76, 154

  Klépa, 215, 231

  Klephtouriá, 22, 35

  Klephts, 22, 35, 99, 121, 135, 159, 180

  Kolettis, 19

  Kolokotrones, 20–1, 113, 132, 155

  Kolonaki, 220, 239

  Komotini, 55, 241

  Kondylis, General, 54

  Konia, 105–6

  Koran, 105–6

  Kossovo, 91

  Kotsioulas, G. (writer), 246

  Koutíphari, 214

  Koutzovlachs (nomads), 9, 19, 32, 65, 71, 84, 201

  Kravara and Kravarites, 194, 197, 199–201, 205, 212, 215–20, 224–6, 229, 239, 248; hamlets, 215

  Krim Tartary, 230

  Krystallis (poet), 19

  Kyrenia, 240

  Kyriaki, Sister, 94–5

  Ladon River, 242

  Lampides, I., 245

  Larissa, 219, 242

  Lemnos, 239

  Lemonadossos, 241

  Leonidion, 241

  Leophoros Syngrou, 239

  Lepanto, Straits
of, 164, 192, 240

  Leros, 195

  Levádeia, 197

  Levant, The, 25, 46, 77, 96, 151, 226

  Levkas, 159, 163, 241

  Libyan Sea, 138

  London, 29, 65, 168, 181, 202, 207, 219

  Louros River, 159, 242

  Lovelace, 2nd Earl of (author of Astarte), 165, 167–8

  Lytton, 3rd Earl of, 165

  Macedonia and Macedonians, 5, 8, 10, 24, 32, 37, 42, 44, 54, 56, 65, 70, 133, 144, 190, 201, 211, 222, 224, 238

  Makarios (hermit), 83

  Malea, Cape, 242

  Malevizi, 195, 238

  Manchuria, 108, 231

  Mani and Maniots, 23, 27, 50, 116, 133–4, 141, 196, 236, 242; Deep Mani, 210

  Mani (earlier work of author), 23, 40–1, 132, 214

  Marathon, 125

  Marina of Russia, Princess, 95

  Marmara, Sea of, 10, 18

  Maroussi, 239

  Mavrocordato, 162, 175

  Mavrolevfi, 240

  Maximos (monk), 95

  Mediterranean Sea, 107, 161, 164, 174, 198

  Megalopolis, 197

  Mehmet (Mohammed ) II, 38, 191,

  Metamorphosis (monastery), 87, 101–2

  Meteora (monasteries), 70, 77–8, 82–4, 87–9, 91, 93, 95–7, 99–101, 237; Mountains, 78, 84, 95, 99–100, 154

  Methone, 242

  Metsovo, 70, 84, 159, 202, 241

  Miaoulis, 113

  Michael VIII, Emperor, 90

  Missolonghi, 162, 164–5, 168, 170–3, 175, 177–9, 182, 191, 221, 241

  Mistra, 105, 112, 237

  Mithraism, 46

  Mitrophanes, 97

  Moldavia, 78, 107

  Monasteries (see also separate headings), 6, 10, 14, 35, 76, 78, 80, 83, 86, 88, 96, 100–3, 210, 238; Frescoes, 81, 98, 113

  Monastic Orders, 77

  Monemvasia, 240

  Montenegro, 10, 226

  Moore, Doris Langley (authoress of The Late Lord Byron), 167

  Morea, 5, 20–1, 163, 191–2

 

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