Shopping, Seduction & Mr. Selfridge

by Lindy Woodhead

  Graves, Charles, None but the Rich: The Story of the Greek Syndicate (Cassell, 1963)

  Gray, Stuart, Edwardian Shops and Stores in London: A Biographical Dictionary (Duckworth, 1985)

  Green, Martin, Children of the Sun: A Narrative of Decadence in England After 1908 (Basic Books, New York, 1976)

  Gregory, Alexis, The Golden Age of Travel (Cassell, 1991)

  Halliday, Stephen, Underground to Everywhere (Sutton, 2001)

  Hartnell, Norman, Silver and Gold (Evans Bros., 1955)

  Hendrickson, Robert, The Grand Emporiums: The Illustrated History of America’s Great Department Stores (Stein & Day, New York, 1933)

  Herndon, Booten, Bergdorf’s on the Plaza (Knopf, New York, 1956)

  Hess, Max, Jr., Every Dollar Counts: The Story of the American Department Store (Fairchild, New York, 1952)

  Honeycombe, Gordon, Selfridges: Seventy-Five Years: The Story of the Store (Park Lane Press, 1984)

  Horne, Alistair, The Terrible Year: The Paris Commune, 1871 (Macmillan, 1971)

  Jackson, Kate, George Newnes and the New Journalism in Britain, 1880–1910: Culture and Profit (Ashgate, Aldershot, 2001)

  Jefferys, James, Retail Trading in Britain, 1850–1950 (Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 1954)

  Jenkins, Alan, The Rich Rich: The Story of the Big Spenders (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1977)

  —— The Twenties (Heinemann, 1974)

  Jenkins, Simon, Newspapers: The Power and the Money (Faber, 1979)

  Kahr, Joan, Edgar Brandt: Master of Art Deco Ironwork, foreword by François Brandt (Harry N. Abrams, New York, 1999)

  Kidd, Janet Aitken, The Beaverbrook Girl (Collins, 1987)

  Kinross, Lord, The Windsor Years (Viking, 1967)

  Koehn, Nancy F., Brand New: How Entrepreneurs Earned Consumers’ Trust from Wedgwood to Dell (Harvard Business School Press, Boston, 2001)

  Kurth, Peter, Isadora: A Sensational Life (Little, Brown & Co., Boston, 2001)

  Leslie, Anita, Edwardians in Love (Hutchinson, 1972)

  Lieven, Prince Peter, The Birth of the Ballets Russes (Allen & Unwin, 1935)

  MacColl, Gail, and Carol Wallace, To Marry an English Lord (Workman, New York, 1989)

  Mackail, Denis, The Story of J.M.B., Sir James Barrie (Peter Davies, 1941)

  MacQueen-Pope, Walter James, Gaiety: Theatre of Enchantment (W. H. Allen, 1949)

  Madsen, Axel, Coco Chanel (Bloomsbury, 1990)

  —— The Marshall Fields (Wiley, New York, 2002)

  Manley, P. S., Clarence Hatry (Abacus, 1976)

  Marbury, Elisabeth, My Crystal Ball (Hurst & Blackett, 1924)

  Marcus, Stanley, Minding the Store (Little Brown, New York, 1974)

  Margetson, Stella, The Long Party: High Society in the 1920s (Gordon Cremonsi, 1974)

  Marly, Diana de, Worth: Father of Haute Couture (Elm Tree Books, 1980)

  Masters, Anthony, Rosa Lewis (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1977)

  Maugham, W. Somerset, Of Human Bondage (Heinemann, 1934)

  —— Plays: One (Methuen Drama, 1997)

  Maxwell, Elsa, R.S.V.P. (Heinemann, 1952)

  —— I Married the World (William Heinemann, 1955)

  McKnight, Gerald, The Scandal of Syrie Maugham (W. H. Allen, 1980)

  Meyers, Jeffrey, Somerset Maugham: A Life (Vintage, 2005)

  Meyrick, Kate, Secrets of the ‘43’ (Parkgate Press, 1933)

  Miller, Michael B., The Bon Marché: Bourgeois Culture and the Department Store, 1869–1920 (Allen & Unwin, 1981)

  Mistinguett, Mistinguett by Mistinguett (Elek Books, 1954)

  Morris, Lloyd, Incredible New York: High Life and Low Life (Bonanza Books, New York, 1950)

  Mosely, Roy, Evergreen: Victor Saville in His Own Words (Scholarly Book Services Inc., New York, 2002)

  Newby, Eric, Something Wholesale (Picador, 1985)

  Nichols, Beverley, The Sweet and Twenties (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1958)

  Nicolson, Nigel, Mary Curzon (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1977)

  —— Portrait of a Marriage (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1973)

  Obolensky, Serge, One Man and His Time: The Memoirs of Serge Obolensky (Hutchinson, 1960)

  Parker, Morell, Lillian Russell: The Era of Plush (Random House, New York, 1940)

  Peiss, Kathy, Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture (Henry Holt, New York, 1998)

  Porter, Roy, London: A Social History (Hamish Hamilton, 1994)

  Pound, Reginald, Arnold Bennett (Heinemann, 1952)

  —— Selfridge (Heinemann, 1960)

  Priestley, J. B., The Edwardians (Heinemann, 1970)

  Raphael, Frederic, Somerset Maugham and His World (Thames & Hudson, 1978)

  Rappaport, Erika Diane, Shopping for Pleasure: Women in the Making of London’s West End (University of Princeton Press, Princeton, 2000)

  Roberts, Cecil, The Bright Twenties, 1920–1929 (Hodder, 1970)

  Ross, Ishbel, Silhouette in Diamonds: The Life of Mrs. Potter Palmer (Harper & Brothers, New York, 1960)

  Roux-Charles, Edmonde, Chanel (Collins, 1989)

  Schiaparelli, Elsa, Shocking Life (Dent, 1954)

  Scott, Jonathan, The Pleasures of Antiquity: British Collectors of Greece and Rome (Paul Mellon Centre, New Haven, Conn., 2003)

  Seebohm, Caroline, The Man Who Was Vogue: The Life and Times of Condé Nast (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1982)

  Selfridge, H. G., The Romance of Commerce (John Lane, 1917)

  Short, Edward H., and Arthur C. Rickett, Ring Up the Curtain (Herbert Jenkins, 1938)

  Sibour, Violette de, Flying Gypsies (G. P. Putnam, New York, 1930)

  Siry, Joseph, Carson, Pirie Scott: Louis Sullivan and the Chicago Department Store (University of Chicago Press, Chicago, 1988)

  Souhami, Diana, Mrs. Keppel and Her Daughter (Flamingo, 1977)

  Stansky, Peter, Sassoon: The Worlds of Philip and Sybil (Yale University Press, New Haven, 2003)

  Tebbel, John, The Marshall Fields (Dutton, New York, 1947)

  Thomson, George, Lord Castlerosse (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1973)

  Thynne, Daphne, The Duchess of Jermyn Street (Eyre & Spottiswoode, 1964)

  Tilden, Philip, True Remembrances: The Memoir of an Architect (Country Life, 1954)

  Twombly, Robert, Louis Sullivan: His Life and Work (Viking Penguin, 1986)

  Twyman, Robert W., The History of Marshall Field & Co. (University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, 1954)

  —— Potter Palmer: Merchandising Innovator of the West (University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, 1951)

  Vanderbilt, Gloria, and Thelma Furness, Double Exposure (Hamilton, 1961)

  Veblen, Thorstein, The Theory of the Leisure Class (Macmillan, 1899)

  Vickers, Hugo, Cecil Beaton (Phoenix Press, 1985)

  Vinikas, Vincent, Soft Soap, Hard Sell: American Hygiene in an Age of Advertisement (Iowa State University Press, Ames, 1992)

  Waywell, Geoffrey B., The Lever and Hope Sculptures (Gebr. Mann Verlag, Berlin, 1986)

  Wendt, Lloyd, and Herman Kogan, Give the Lady What She Wants: The Story of Marshall Field (Rand McNally, Chicago, 1952)

  Westminster, Loelia, Grace and Favour (Reynal, New York, 1961)

  White, Palmer, Poiret (Studio Vista, 1973)

  Williams, Alfred H., No Name at the Door: A Memoir of Gordon Selfridge (W. H. Allen, 1956)

  Wilson, A. N., The Victorians (Hutchinson, 2001)

  Wilson, Edmund, The Twenties (Macmillan, 1975)

  Wilson, Sandy, The Roaring Twenties (Eyre Methuen, 1976)

  Winkler, John K., Five & Ten: The Fabulous Life of F. W. Woolworth (Robert McBridge, New York, 1941)

  Woodhead, Lindy, War Paint: Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden, Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry (Virago, 2003)

  Woolton, Frederick James, The Memoirs of the Rt Hon the Earl of Woolton (Cassell, 1959)

  Yoxall, Harry, A Fashion of Life (Taplinger, New York, 1967)

  Zola, Emile, The Ladies’ Paradise (Au Bonheur des Dames) (188
3)

  By LINDY WOODHEAD

  Shopping, Seduction & Mr. Selfridge

  War Paint: Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden—

  Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  LINDY WOODHEAD worked in journalism, film, and fashion publicity before establishing her own public relations agency, WPR. For many years she and her husband, Colin—also her business partner—were pioneering exponents of specialist development, building prestige brand reputation. WPR’s international fashion, fine jewelry and retail clients included Ferragamo, Cerruti 1881, Wolford, Karl Lagerfeld, Louis Vuitton, Krizia, Rossetti, Yves Saint Laurent, Brioni, Hermes and Garrard. In the late 1980s, Woodhead also took up an external appointment as the first woman on the board of directors at Harvey Nichols department store.

  In 2000, Woodhead retired to develop her writing career. Her first book, War Paint, was published in 2003 and was made into an American television documentary. Currently working on her next book, she also writes consumer-related and lifestyle features for various publications. Woodhead and her husband have two sons and divide their time between southwest London and southwest France.

  Table of Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Copyright

  Epigraph

  Illustrations

  Introduction: CONSUMING PASSIONS

  1. THE FORTUNES OF WAR

  2. GIVING THE LADIES WHAT THEY WANT

  3. THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT

  4. FULL SPEED AHEAD

  5. GOING IT ALONE

  6. BUILDING THE DREAM

  7. TAKEOFF

  8. LIGHTING UP THE NIGHT

  9. WAR WORK, WAR PLAY

  10. CASTLES IN THE AIR

  11. VICES AND VIRTUES

  12. MAKING WAVES

  13. TOUT VA

  14. FLIGHTS OF FANCY

  15. OVER AND OUT

  Photo Inserts

  Dedication

  Acknowledgments

  Notes

  Bibliography

  Other Books by This Author

  About the Author