L.A. Son
Page 26
Choi, Roy
attends Culinary Institute of America, 185, 199–206
Chevy Blazer automobile, 103–7
childhood birthday parties, 13–14
college years, 123–28
detox in Mission Viejo, 176–77
early childhood, 5–17
eating and drinking in Los Angeles, 150–51, 179–84
elementary school years, 34
externship at Le Bernardin, 208–17
financial problems, 153–57
gambling activities, 142–50, 152–57
high school years, 93–107
junior high school years, 79–85
Korean taco food truck, 294–97
parents’ backgrounds, 6–9
parents’ jewelry business, 47–59
and Salvador’s goats, 234–37
Silver Garden restaurant years, 27–37
Times Square YMCA experience, 128–31
Villa Park years, 73–85
work at de Anza Country Club, 237–39
work at Embassy Suites, 240–41, 246–47
work at First Investors, 177–78, 181, 185
work at Kaishoku Michiba, 244–45
work at La Casa del Zorro, 230–34
work at Pan Pacific Hotel, 245–46
work at RockSugar, 272–79
work at the Beverly Hilton, 247–49, 271–72
work options after RockSugar, 279–81
work with Chef Michiba, 241–44
Choi Family Treehouse, 32–34
Choi Jewelry, 59
Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65
Chowder, Coconut Clam, 224, 225
Cilantro
Salsa Verde, 119, 119
Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300
That’s So Sweet, 91
Cinnamon
Ghetto Pillsbury Fried Doughnuts, 134–35, 134–35
Horchata, 120
City Café (restaurant), 151
Clam(s)
Abalone Porridge, 20, 21
Chowder, Coconut, 224, 225
Clark, Patrick, 207
Clifton’s Cafeteria (restaurant), 57
Cobb Salad, Easy de Anza, 257
Coconut milk
Cardamom Milk Shaved Ice, 287, 287
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce, 284–85
Coconut Clam Chowder, 224, 225
Coconut Rice, 286
Eggplant Curry over Rice, 282, 283
Windowpane Smoothies, 67
Commerce Casino, 149
Condiments
Kimchi, 18, 19
Magic Fish Dip, 86, 87
Red Onion Marmalade, 255
Salsa Verde, 119, 119
Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300
Sesame-Soy Salad Dressing, 310
Splash, 121
That’s So Sweet, 91
Cookies, Chinatown Almond, 69
Corn
L.A. Corner on the Cob, 302, 303
Crème Brûlée, 292
Cucumbers
Instant Pickled, 42, 43
Salted Mango and Cukes, 322
Culinary Institute of America (CIA), 185, 199–206
Cultural rules, Korean, 331
Curing, note about, 307
Curry, Eggplant, over Rice, 282, 283
D
Daikon radishes
about, 329
Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289
Daniel (restaurant), 207
Dean, Garrett, 96
DeGeneres, Ellen, 246
DeSantis, Ron, 203–5
Desserts
Butter Pineapple, 322
Cardamom Milk Shaved Ice, 287, 287
Chinatown Almond Cookies, 69
Crème Brûlée, 292
Ghetto Pillsbury Fried Doughnuts, 134–35, 134–35
Pecan Pie, 70, 71
Salted Mango and Cukes, 322
Dips
Chips and, 90
Fish, Magic, 86, 87
Dirty Dog, L.A., 309, 309
Doenjang, about, 329
Dong II Jang (restaurant), 13
Doughnuts, Ghetto Pillsbury Fried, 134–35, 134–35
Drinks
Horchata, 120
My Milk Shake, 162, 163
Windowpane Smoothies, 67
Duck
Breast, Crispy, with Polenta and Sweet and Sour Mango Sauce, 253, 253–54
Fat Fries, Twice-Cooked, 22
Dumpling Time, 38–39, 39
Dumpling wrappers, about, 330
E
Eggplant Curry over Rice, 282, 283
Egg(s)
Abalone Porridge, 20, 21
Asparagus, 312, 313
Chorizo and, 64–66, 65
Easy de Anza Cobb Salad, 257
Fried Rice, Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over, 194
Ketchup Fried Rice, 136, 137
Korean Carpaccio (Sort of), 40, 41
Perfect Instant Ramen, 132, 133
Pork Fried Rice, 158, 159–61
Zucchini Fritter Omelet, 320, 321
The Ellen DeGeneres Show, 246
El Taurino (restaurant), 181
Embassy Suites, 240–41, 246–47, 267
F
Fama, Vinnie, 203
Feninger, Sue, 151
First Investors Corporation, 177–78, 181, 185
Fish. See also Anchovy(ies); Shellfish
Broiled Halibut with Soy Glaze, 269
Dip, Magic, 86, 87
the Fonz, 12, 17
Frank (high school friend), 83
French Onion Soup, 263
Fries, Twice-Cooked Duck Fat, 22
Fruit. See also specific fruits
canned, cooking with, 330
Roll Ups and Downs, 88
Windowpane Smoothies, 67
G
Garlic
buying, 328
Kimchi, 18, 19
Roasted Mushrooms, 316
Spaghetti Junction: The $4 Spaghetti That Tastes Almost as Good as the $24 Spaghetti, 166, 167–69
That’s So Sweet, 91
Gates, Mrs., 238–39
Gehr, Frank, 96
Ghetto Pillsbury Fried Doughnuts, 134–35, 134–35
Ginger, cooking with, 328
Goat
Birria, 250, 251–52
and Yellow Rice Stew, 112, 113–14
Grains. See Polenta; Rice
Gramercy Tavern (restaurant), 207
Greens
Caesar Salad, 264, 265
Easy de Anza Cobb Salad, 257
Pounded Pork Schnitzel, 226
Quick Spinach Soup, 317, 317
Grove Street Mob, 94–107
Gumbo, 196, 197
Gutierrez, Jesse, 203, 206
H
Hainan Chicken, Kind of, 290, 291
Halibut, Broiled, with Soy Glaze, 269
Happy Days, 17
Herbs. See Cilantro; Thai basil
Hibachi Steak Teppanyaki, 195
Hodori Restaurant, 181
Holzman, Daniel, 212–13, 217
Horchata, 120
Hurry Curry (restaurant), 181
I
Ice cream
My Milk Shake, 162, 163
Ingredients, 325–30
canned fruit, 330
daikon radish, 329
doenjang, 329
dried seaweed, 330
dumpling wrappers, 330
garlic, 328
ginger, 328
kochujang, 329
kochukaru, 328
maple syrup, 330
rice, 325–27
rice vinegar, 330
scallions, 328
sesame oil, 327–28
soy sauce, 327
spam, 330
tofu, 329–30
Ismail, Mohan, 274, 275, 277–79
J
Janzen, Steve, 99
Jerky, Beef, 110, 111
Johnnycakes (variation), 140
Jones, Lou, 205
Juan (at Le Bernardin), 210–12
Juhn, Paul “Yogi,” 142, 178–81
K
Kaishoku Michiba (restaurant), 242, 244–45
Kalbi Plate, 164, 165
Kawai, Takayoshi, 244
Kenneth (at La Casa del Zorro), 232–34
Ketchup Fried Rice, 136, 137
Khun, Sottha, 207
Kimchi, 18, 19
Brussels Sprouts and, 315, 315
and Pork Belly Stuffed Pupusas, 304, 305–7
Stew, 45
Knight, Rey, 200
Kobawoo House (restaurant), 181
Kochujang, about, 329
Kochukaru
about, 328
Kimchi, 18, 19
Korean cultural rules, 331
Korean taco food truck, 294–97
Korea University, 124–27
Kudra, Matt, 103
Kung Pao Chicken Papi Style, 116, 117–18
Kunz, Gray, 275
L
La Brea Bakery, 151
La Casa del Zorro, 230–34
Lagasse, Emeril, 184–85
Lamb
Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62
La Technique (Pépin), 239
Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62
Le Bernardin (restaurant), 208–17, 269
Le Cirque (restaurant), 207
Lee, Danny, 328
Le Grenouille (restaurant), 207
Los Angeles
Asian population in, 11
Jewelry District, 48–50
during 1960s, 9, 11
West Anaheim region, 28–30, 36–37
West Hollywood region, 15–16
M
Magic Fish Dip, 86, 87
Main dishes
Abalone Porridge, 20, 21
Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300
Birria, 250, 251–52
Broiled Halibut with Soy Glaze, 269
Carne Asada, 108, 109
Casino Prime Rib, 170–71
Cheese Pizza, Dough to Sauce, 138–39
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce, 284–85
Chili Spaghetti, 24–25
Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65
Coconut Clam Chowder, 224, 225
Crispy Duck Breast with Polenta and Sweet and Sour Mango Sauce, 253, 253–54
Easy de Anza Cobb Salad, 257
Eggplant Curry over Rice, 282, 283
French Onion Soup, 263
Fried Ribs. What?!, 260, 261–62
Gumbo, 196, 197
Hainan Chicken, Kind of, 290, 291
Hibachi Steak Teppanyaki, 195
Kalbi Plate, 164, 165
Ketchup Fried Rice, 136, 137
Kimchi and Pork Belly Stuffed Pupusas, 304, 305–7
Kimchi Stew, 45
Korean Stained-Glass Fried Chicken, 192
Korean-Style Braised Short Rib Stew, 186, 187
Kung Pao Chicken Papi Style, 116, 117–18
L.A. Dirty Dog, 309, 309
Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62
Mushroom Quesadillas, 266, 267–68
Perfect Instant Ramen, 132, 133
Pho for Dem Hos, 172–73
Pork and Beans, 115
Pork Fried Rice, 158, 159–61
Pounded Pork Schnitzel, 226
Roy’s Burger, 301
Seared Beef Medallions with Sauce Robert, 220, 221
Seared Scallops with Chive Beurre Blanc, 227
Simple Chicken Piccata, 258–59
Simple Club Sandwich, 256
Soybean Paste Stew, 188, 189
Spaghetti Junction: The $4 Spaghetti That Tastes Almost as Good as the $24 Spaghetti, 166, 167–69
Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289
Spicy Octopus, 190, 191
Yellow Rice and Goat Stew, 112, 113–14
Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over Egg Fried Rice, 194
Zucchini Fritter Omelet, 320, 321
Mango
and Cukes, Salted, 322
Sauce, Sweet and Sour, 253–54
Windowpane Smoothies, 67
Manguera, Mark, 281, 294–97
Manny (CIA friend), 203, 206
Maple syrup, buying, 330
Marmalade, Red Onion, 255
Matsuhisa, Nobu, 151
Matsuhisa (restaurant), 151
Meat. See also Beef; Pork
Birria, 250, 251–52
curing, note about, 307
Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62
Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289
Veal Stock, 222–23
Yellow Rice and Goat Stew, 112, 113–14
The Meatball Shop (restaurant), 212
Michiba, Rokusaburo, 241–44
Milk
Cardamom, Shaved Ice, 287, 287
Horchata, 120
Shake, My, 162, 163
Milliken, Mary Sue, 151
Mooring, Paul, 230–32
Mountain Café (restaurant), 21
Muller, Chris, 209, 210
Murphy, Sandy, 246
Mushroom(s)
Kimchi Stew, 45
Korean-Style Braised Short Rib Stew, 186, 187
Quesadillas, 266, 267–68
Roasted, 316
N
Nobu (restaurant), 207
Noodles
Perfect Instant Ramen, 132, 133
Pho for Dem Hos, 172–73
Normandie Casino, 148–49
Nuts
Chinatown Almond Cookies, 69
Pecan Pie, 70, 71
O
OB Bear (restaurant), 181
Octopus, Spicy, 190, 191
Oil, sesame, about, 327–28
Okra
Gumbo, 196, 197
Okura, Robert, 274–75
Omelet, Zucchini Fritter, 320, 321
One If by Land, Two If by Sea (restaurant), 207
Onion
Red, Marmalade, 255
Soup, French, 263
Ortega, Martin, 95–96
Osmail, Mohan, 272
Overton, David, 272–75
Oysters
Kimchi, 18, 19
P
Pag (in Grove Street Mob), 99
Pancakes
Blueberry (variation), 140
Buttermilk, 140
Johnnycakes (variation), 140
Potato, 44
Panchan, about, 28
Pan 9 games, 144, 146
Pan Pacific Hotel, 245–46
Paramount Studios, 17
Pasta. See Noodles; Spaghetti
Peaches
Windowpane Smoothies, 67
Peanut Sauce, Chicken Satay with, 284–85
Pecan Pie, 70, 71
Peck, Rob, 203
Peppers. See also Chiles
Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65
kochujang, about, 329
kochukaru, about, 328
L.A. Dirty Dog, 309, 309
Perez, Rich, 203, 206–7
Ph
at The Bicycle Club, 144–46
for Dem Hos, 172–73
Phoenix Bakery, 58
Pickled Cucumbers, Instant, 42, 43
Pie, Pecan, 70, 71
Pineapple
Butter, 322
Fruit Roll Ups and Downs, 88
Windowpane Smoothies, 67
Pizza, Cheese, Dough to Sauce, 138–39
Poker playing, 146–49
Polenta and Sweet and Sour Mango Sauce, Crispy Duck Breast with, 253, 253–54
Pork. See also Bacon
and Beans, 115
Belly and Kimchi Stuffed Pupusas, 304, 305–7
Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65
Dumpling Time, 38–39, 39
Fried Ribs. What?!, 260, 261–62
Fried Rice, 158, 159–61
Gumbo, 196, 197
Kimchi Stew, 45
Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62
Schnitzel, Pounded, 226
Porridge, Abalone, 20, 21
Potato(es)
Anna Banana
, 218, 219
Chips and Dip, 90
Pancakes, 44
Sweet, Roasted, 318
Twice-Cooked Duck Fat Fries, 22
Poultry. See Chicken; Duck; Turkey
Pupusas, Kimchi and Pork Belly Stuffed, 304, 305–7
Q
Quesadillas, Mushroom, 266, 267–68
R
Ramen, Perfect Instant, 132, 133
Rice
Abalone Porridge, 20, 21
Coconut, 286
cooking, 327
Eggplant Curry over, 282, 283
Fried, Egg, Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over, 194
Fried, Ketchup, 136, 137
Fried, Pork, 158, 159–61
Gumbo, 196, 197
Horchata, 120
types of, 325–26
washing, 326
Yellow, and Goat Stew, 112, 113–14
Rice vinegar, 330
Ripert, Eric, 208–10
Robinson, Curtis and Ken, 99
Röckenwagner (restaurant), 150
RockSugar (restaurant), 272–79
Rodney (high school friend), 81
Roy’s Burger, 301
Ryan, Nolan, 76–78
S
Salad Dressing, Sesame-Soy, 310
Salads
Caesar, 264, 265
Cobb, Easy de Anza, 257
Salsa Verde, 119, 119
Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300
Salvado (at La Casa del Zorro), 234–37
Sandwiches
Club, Simple, 256
L.A. Dirty Dog, 309, 309
Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62
Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289
Satay, Chicken, with Peanut Sauce, 284–85
Sauces
Mango, Sweet and Sour, 253–54
Pizza, 138–39
Salsa Verde, 119, 119
Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300
Splash, 121
That’s So Sweet, 91
Yogurt, 61–62
Scallions, cooking with, 328
Scallops, Seared, with Chive Beurre Blanc, 227
Scherr, Malvin, 177
Seafood. See Fish; Shellfish
Seaweed, dried, about, 330
Semaza, Mike, 96
Sesame oil, about, 327–28
Sesame-Soy Salad Dressing, 310
Shaved Ice, Cardamom Milk, 287, 287
Shellfish
Abalone Porridge, 20, 21
Coconut Clam Chowder, 224, 225
Gumbo, 196, 197
Kimchi, 18, 19
Seared Scallops with Chive Beurre Blanc, 227
Spicy Octopus, 190, 191
Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over Egg Fried Rice, 194
Shep (in Grove Street Mob), 96
Shrimp
Gumbo, 196, 197
Yuzu Glazed, over Egg Fried Rice, 194
Side dishes
Asparagus, 312, 313
Baby Bok Choy, 314
Broccoli Rabe, 314
Brussels Sprouts and Kimchi, 315, 315
Caesar Salad, 264, 265
Coconut Rice, 286
L.A. Corner on the Cob, 302, 303
Potatoes Anna Banana, 218, 219
Potato Pancakes, 44
Quick Spinach Soup, 317, 317
Roasted Cauliflower, 316
Roasted Mushrooms, 316
Roasted Sweet Potatoes, 318
Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, 318, 319
Twice-Cooked Duck Fat Fries, 22