The Greek Islands

by Lawrence Durrell

  In classical times, Corfu and the opposite mainland of Epirus were famous for their oak trees – Dodona is only eighty kilometres east of Corfu – but these are rare nowadays; the uplands of both sides of the straits are bare and rocky. On the Corfu side this was due to a great extent to the Venetian shipyards whose ruins can still be seen near Govino Bay; on the Epirote hills the damage was mostly due to the Napoleonic Wars. Both the British and the French governments brought great quantities of timber from Ali Pacha, the semi-independent Turkish ruler of Jannina, for the construction of their fleets. When it is remembered that at least two thousand oaks not counting other trees – were needed to build a single ship of the line, the wholesale disappearance of entire forests can be understood.

  On most of the islands Orange, Lemon, Almond and other fruit trees, together with vines, are cultivated. In many of them a dense native maquis can be found. This is principally composed of Myrtle (Myrtus communis); Laurel (Laurus nobilis); Lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus); Christ’s Thorn (Paliurus spina-christi); Judas Tree (Cercis sili-quastrum); Chaste Tree (l’itex agnus-castus); Holm Oak (Quercus ilex); Kermes Oak (Q. coccifera); Greek Heath (Erica verticillata); Tree Heather (E. arborea); Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo); Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum); Thorny Broom (Calycotome villosa) and Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum). The Strawberry Tree is of interest, as its orange-red globular fruit, which ripen in autumn, can produce a kind of delirious intoxication if eaten on an empty stomach. Their flavour resembles that of the garden strawberry and a delicious jelly can be made from them.

  Many of the species listed above are long-lived and would grow into large trees if allowed. Unfortunately, they are not allowed to do this owing to the depredations of goats and the fuel demands of local brick-kilns and potteries.

  Calendar of Flowers and Festivals

  JANUARY

  In some parts of Greece January is called ‘The Pruner’ because now the husbandman trims vines and trees. An omen is drawn from the observation of the weather at Epiphany. The following saying illustrates this:

  Dry Epiphany and pouring Easter weather

  Bring us happiness and plenty both together.

  The woods are starred with Anemones, mostly Anemone coronaria. They can be found in several colours: mauve, scarlet and, more rarely, white. The mauve and purple varieties of Anemone coronaria are very frequent not only in the Ionian Islands but in Crete, and some of the Aegean Islands, and so is the scarlet variety in Rhodes. In the south-eastern Dodecanese Islands and in Crete, Ranunculus asiaticus, an indication of the proximity of Asia, flowers with the Anemones, being often confused with them in colour in varieties from white to pink, scarlet and yellow.

  The pink or white flowers of the cultivated and wild Almond Tree (Amygdalus communis) are in full bloom. Flowering often begins as early as mid-December.

  The Winter Crocus (Crocus sieberi) shows its lavender flowers.

  The Japanese Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) is still in bloom – begins in December – and its delicious scent is strongest just after sunset.

  The Wisteria (Wisteria fructescens) blooms before its leaves have appeared.

  New Year’s Day This day belongs to St Basil; a cake with a silver coin in it is made and cut, and luck belongs to whoever finds the coin. After supper the family plays games of divination. A slice of New Year cake under a girl’s pillow will do for a Greek girl what a slice of wedding-cake does for an English girl.

  Twelfth Day The curious ceremony of diving for the Cross, thrown into the sea by a priest, can be seen both in the islands and on the Greek mainland. A dozen or so shivering lads contend for the prize, and duck the winner of the reward.

  The feast of St John the Baptist is on 7 January and there is mumming in the streets by children in masks.

  The January weather is often fine, dry and cold (the Halcyon days).

  FEBRUARY

  On the 2nd falls the Feast of the Purification of the Virgin (our Candlemas), and the prevailing weather on this day is popularly supposed to last forty days.

  Anemones still at their best.

  The large purple Periwinkle (Vinca major) begins to flower.

  The purple-blue Cretan Iris (Iris unguicularis ssp. cretensis) appears.

  The deliciously scented Narcissus (Narcissus tazetta) thrives in damp places.

  Wisteria still in bloom.

  MARCH

  The first cuckoo and the early spring winds. Now, in the more southern islands, the first cicadas begin to welcome the sunlight, and swallows start building under the house-eaves. (Destroy their nests and you’ll get freckles, says popular legend. According to another superstition, there will be a death in the house.) On the 1st of the month the boys fashion a wooden swallow, adorn it with flowers and travel from house to house collecting pennies and singing a little song which varies from place to place in Greece. This custom is of the remotest antiquity and is mentioned by ancient Greek authors.

  In some of the Aegean Islands, peasants think it unlucky to wash or plant vegetables during the first three days of March. Trees planted now will wither. The March sun burns the skin; and a red-and-white thread on the wrist will prevent your children from getting sunburn.

  Some of the Orchids begin to flower, including the purple Lax-flowered Orchid (Orchis laxiflora) which grows in swampy areas. Also various Pyramid, Bee, and Fly Orchids.

  Other Irises (Iris attica and I. florentina) appear.

  The bright yellow Bog Iris (Iris pseudacorus) brightens the dykes and other swampy places with its quarantine-like flags.

  Narcissi still found; Anemones dying off; Periwinkles still seen.

  Orange and Lemon Trees in full bloom.

  The Aborescent Heath (Erica arborea) shows its masses of white flowers. It is from the roots of this plant that ‘briar’ (from the French bruyère) pipes are made.

  *

  Easter, which sometimes falls in March, has been grafted on to what was probably the Lesser Eleusinia in ancient times – the return of Persephone. It is the period of red eggs and roasted lamb on the spit today and is ushered in by the great forty-days fast of Lent. The two Sundays before Lent are known respectively as ‘Meat Sunday’ and ‘Cheese Sunday’. The week between them answers to our Western carnival week, and is so celebrated in the cities of Greece with masquerades, black dominoes, etc. Scholars hint at pre-Christian survivals saying that these antics suggest the Old Cronia festivals of ancient times, while Lent itself suggests a connection with the Eleusinian mysteries – commemorating Demeter’s long abstinence from food during her search for her lost daughter.

  The midnight Mass of Easter Saturday is the high-spot of the year’s festivals and no traveller should miss the impressive ceremony. In villages the gospel is read out in the churchyard under a tree. At the end the news that ‘Christ is risen’ is announced to the banging of gongs and the explosion of crackers. In the dark church the priest holds up his consecrated candle and calls out to the congregation: ‘Come and receive the light’; each one lights a taper from his candle and passes the light back into the dark body of the church to the rest of the congregation. If you are lucky enough to get your candle home without it going out you’ll have good luck the coming year.

  APRIL

  In the uplands, sheep are shorn and the air is full of the plaintive cry of lambs unable to recognize their shorn dams; about the 23rd of the month (St George’s Day, the patron saint of Brigands and Englishmen) the shepherds return to the mountains with their flocks.

  Orchids at their best. Irises still going strong. Narcissi ending.

  The Spring Asphodel (Asphodelus microcarpus) shows its branched spikes of white flowers, especially in the olive woods.

  The rare Snake Wort (Dracunculus vulgaris) shows its huge green, brown and purple blossoms – rather like an outsize Arum Lily – and can often be located from a distance by its carrion-like smell. This is to attract flies on which it depends for transporting pollen.

  The Prickly Pear (Opuntia ficus-in
dica) begins to show its pretty yellow flowers.

  The Yellow Wallflower (Cheiranthus cheiri) now in flower.

  Various species of Rock Rose (Cistus) begin to show their pink, white, or yellowish-white flowers.

  The Judas Tree (Carcis siliquastrum) sometimes begins to bloom towards the end of the month.

  Spanish and Thorny Broom (Spartium junceum and Calycotome villosa) explode into bright yellow on the hillsides.

  The Golden Daisy (Chrysanthemum coronarium) decks the fields.

  MAY

  Parties are formed to go picnicking and ‘fetch back the May’; the young men of the village make wreaths of flowers to hang them at their sweethearts’ doors. But May is unlucky for marriage because, says the proverb, ‘In May the donkeys mate.’

  Rock Rose, Wallflower, Periwinkle, Prickly Pear, Snake Wort, still in flower.

  The pink Night-scented Stock (Matthiola longipetala ssp. bicornis), which in some years starts in April, sheds its delicious scent just after sunset. In the hills and mountains of Crete and Karpathos the white Paeony (Paeonia clusii) is flowering, while Rhodes has its own white Paeony (P. rhodia).

  Judas Trees at their best, in great splashes of magenta all over the countryside.

  Broom in full swing. Bog Iris still going strong. Orchids ending.

  The Climbing Clematis (Clematis flammula) shows its white flowers. The peasants call it the swallow flower – chelidonia – probably because it appears at about the time when the swallows return.

  The wild Thyme (Thymus capitatus) begins to flower, to the delight of the bees which produce the ‘Hymettus honey’.

  White Acacia Trees (Robinia pseudacacia) in full flower.

  JUNE

  In some places called ‘The Harvester’ because the harvest begins normally in this month. On the 24th falls the Nativity of St John the Baptist which is celebrated by a great feast with crackling bonfires.

  The Oleander (Nerium oleander), in full bloom. It begins in May, or even in late April, and continues until late September.

  Love-in-a-mist, alias Devil-in-a-bush (Nigella damascena), nods its delicate pale blue flowers.

  The leaves around the flowers of the Ailanthus Tree (Ailanthus altissima) turn orange and red.

  The Squirting Cucumber (Ecballium elaterium) shows its pale yellow flowers. Within a month it is ready for action, and then mind your eye. Active until September.

  Thyme in full swing. Also wild Mint (Mentha pulegium) and yellow Three-lobed Sage (Salvia triloba).

  Swamp Iris and Prickly Pear still in flower.

  The Rock Caper (Capparis rupestris) flaunts its large white flowers with their long purple stamens on rocks and cliffs by the sea.

  The thistle-like Eryngium creticum turns from green to a beautiful metallic blue, giving whole areas a bluish colour.

  The bright vermillion flowers of the Pomegranate (Punica granatum) are seen; flowers also in July.

  The Chaste Tree (Vitex agnus-castus), really more a large bush than a tree, shows its purple flowers, especially along the coasts. The ancient Greeks (and also the Crusaders) believed that the scent of its leaves and flowers was an ‘anti-aphrodisiac’, hence the name.

  JULY

  In some places called ‘The Thresher’, presumably because the corn is threshed in this month.

  On the 30th there is a huge open-air festival at Soroni, Rhodes, to celebrate the arrival of St Saul who was a fellow-passenger of St Paul during the shipwreck at Lindos. (A case of transferred names and attributes – as with ancient gods and goddesses, one wonders?)

  The violet Delphinium (Delphinium peregrinum) in flower; also in August.

  The Golden Thistle (Scolymus hispanicus) shows its yellow flowers in all uncultivated places.

  The Mullein (Verbascum undulatum) also displays its yellow flowers. Some species are used by fishermen to make fish poisons.

  The Oleander is seen in masses of pink; occasionally white or cream.

  Prickly Pear still in flower.

  The Agave or Aloe (Agave americana) rockets upwards, after a flying start in May, and produces a tall (up to 10 m) spike of yellow-green flowers; also in September. This plant takes fifteen to twenty years to flower, and then dies in a few weeks.

  The Caper is still in flower.

  AUGUST

  The Magpie is the bird of the month, and August begins (on the 1st) with the Progress of the Precious and Unifying Cross. This feast prepares one for another feast which is the prelude to the Feast of the Repose of the Virgin, on the 14th. On the 23rd the Feast of the Holy Merciful is celebrated; again on the 29th a feast for the Cutting Off of the Precious Head of St John the Precursor heralds more abstinence.

  In general, however, August is the great dancing month, and panagyreias are held on the 6th, the 15th and the 23rd in most of the islands, especially at Trianda and Cremasto on Rhodes.

  The beautiful white scented flowers of the Sand Lily (Pancratium maritimum) appear in the coastal sands. It is rare and regional.

  The Caper is still in flower and continues until September.

  SEPTEMBER

  On the 14th there is a festival dedicated to the Cross at Callithies of Rhodes. Childless women make a weary pilgrimage to the top of the razor-back hill called Tsambika below San Benedetto – and here, in the chapel of Our Lady, they eat a small piece of the wick from one of the lamps which will make them fruitful. If the resulting infant is not named after the Virgin, it dies.

  The Sea Squill (Urginea maritima) show its tall, erect, unbranched spike of white flowers, mostly in olive woods. The peasants make a rat poison from its huge bulb which can attain a diameter of 15 cm or more.

  The grapes begin to be gathered.

  OCTOBER

  A golden month which belongs to St Demetrius; at his feast on the 26th wine casks are unstopped and the new wine tasted. Many weddings take place in this month, and an eagerly anticipated spell of fine warm weather which comes around the middle of the month is known as the Little Summer of St Demetrius.

  Grape-gathering in full swing.

  The crocus-like Sternbergia lutea and Sternbergia sicula show their bright yellow blossoms after the first autumn rains.

  The Autumn Mandrake (Mandragora autumnalis) shows its purple flowers at about the same time; rather rare.

  The Autumn Cyclamen have just started their lilac flood; C. hederifolium and C. graecum are the two autumn-flowering species. The spring-flowering species (March–April) include C. cretica, white flowered and fragrant from Crete, C. repandum, white or pink in colour from Rhodes, and C. persicum, fragrant and variably coloured, from Rhodes and other Aegean islands. These spring-flowering species of Cyclamen are less common than the autumn-flowering species and of very local distribution.

  NOVEMBER

  In many places still called ‘The Sower’ because seed-time is beginning; St Andrew is the most popular saint of this month and his feast falls on its last day. He is the bringer of the first snow in mountainous areas (popular saying: ‘St Andrew has washed his beard white’). On the 18th is the feast of St Plato the Martyr, whom popular ignorance has transformed into St Plane Tree, the names being very similar (Platonos and Platanos). The weather which prevails on the 18th will last through Advent (The Forty Days). Now the Pleiades begin to rise in the early evening, and the first sea gales drive the longshore fisherman to his winter quarters. The melancholy of the dying year is hardly cast off by St Andrew’s holiday on which everyone eats loucumades – a sort of doughnut-shaped waffle.

  The Autumn Crocus (Crocus laevigatus) appears, white or mauve.

  The Saffron Crocus (C. sativus ssp. cartwrightianus) and its Cretan form C. oreocreticus also appear, purple blossoms. Its stigmas are used to make the dye and condiment ‘saffron’.

  Cyclamen in full bloom.

  The fruit of the Orange and Tangerine begin to turn golden.

  The Corfu Snowdrop (Galanthus corcyrensis) makes its appearance, but may be delayed until December; it is rare and sporadic. It ma
y, perhaps, occur in some of the other Greek islands as it, or a very similar species, is found on the Greek mainland, including Macedonia and Thrace.

  DECEMBER

  The saint of the month is St Nicholas (on the 6th), and rightly so; the seafarer needs his patron saint most at the year’s end. But there are plenty more on the list of saints.

  *

  4 December – St Barbara, the patron saint of artillerymen

  5 December – St Savvas

  12 December – St Spiridion, the patron saint of Corfu

  *

  Christmas Eve Incense is burned before supper, and those flat hot-cross buns called ‘Christ’s loaves’ are baked in the oven. After supper the cloth is not removed from the table because it is believed that Christ will come and eat during the night. A log or an old shoe is left burning on the fire: the smoke will ward off stray ‘Kallikanzari’ (little mischievous faun-like imps).

  *

  Cyclamen end; Anemones begin.

  Almond and Japanese Loquat in flower towards the end of the month.

  Oranges and Tangerines ripe.

  Fauna