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by Iain Gately


  99 “would not look for anything else in life”: Sahagun, Book IV Ch IV, p. 212.

  100 “As soon as the presentation of gifts was over”: The Fables and Rites of the Yncas, Christoval de Molina, Trans. Clements R. Markham, London, 1873, p. 313.

  101 “a liquor which they brew of rice”: The Travels of Marco Polo, Trans. Henry Yule, Project Gutenberg etext.

  102 “that they say that more than one-third of the rice grown”: Joao Rodrigues’s Account of Sixteenth Century Japan, Ed. Michael Cooper, Hakluyt Society, Series III, Vol. 7, p. 252.

  102 “first and chief courtesy”: Ibid., p. 238.

  102 “In Europe it is a great disgrace”: Ibid., p. 236.

  102 “and so they are obliged to drink”: Ibid.

  103 “that from the time they returned home”: Ibid.

  103 “They seem to do this on purpose in order”: Ibid., p. 238.

  103 “various properties, natural powers, and benefits of Cha”: Ibid., pp. 277-78.

  General:

  Portuguese Voyages, Pero Vaz de Caminha, Ed., Trans. Charles David Ley, Everyman, London, 1947.

  “Flopsy, Mopsy and Tipsy (interpretation of the rabbit symbol in Aztec iconography),” Patricia Rieff Anawalt, Natural History, April 1997.

  9 WATKIN’S ALE

  106 “we ought to give thanks to God”: Martin Luther, “Sermon on Soberness and Moderation against Gluttony and Drunkenness,” May 18, 1539.

  110 Church ales: The Voices of Morebath, Reformation and Rebellion in an English Village, Eamon Duffy, Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2001.

  107 “heathens and not Christian”: “Wine, Beer and the Reformation in Europe,” Mack P. Holt, in Alcohol: A Social and Cultural History, Ed. Mack P. Holt, Berg, Oxford, 2006, p. 32.

  110 “The multiplying of taverns is evident cause”: A History of the English Public House, H. A. Monckton, Bodley Head, London, 1969, p. 38.

  112 “ale for an English-man is a natural drink.”: A Dyetary of Helth, Andrewe Boorde (1547), Ed. F. J. Furnivall, N. Trubner & Co., London, 1870, Kessinger Publishing reprint, p. 256.

  112 “He took this maiden then aside”: Ballad with music online: www.biostat.wustl.edu/~erich/music/songs/watkins_ale.abc.

  113 “A good sherris-sack hath a twofold operation”: King Henry IV, Part 2, Act IV, iii, The Yale Shakespeare, ed. Wilbur L. Cross and Tucker Brooke, Barnes & Noble, 1993.

  115 “to borrow a rank”: The English: A Social History 1066—1945, Christopher Hibbert., W. W. Norton & Company, New York, 1987, p. 225.

  10 PILGRIMS

  117 “so full of grapes”: Arthur Barlowe First Voyage to Virginia, online at etext.lib.virginia.edu/etcbin/jamestown-browse?id=J1014.

  118 “He was of so hard a complection”: Big Chief Elizabeth: The Adventures and Fate of the First English Colonists in America, Giles Milton, Picador, London, 2001, p. 80.

  119 “We made of the same in the country some mault”: “Thomas Harriot: A Brief and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia,” online at digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1020&context=etas.

  119 “sugarcandie”: Milton, p. 281.

  120 “neither taverne, [nor] beere-house”: Ibid., p. 268.

  120 “To plant a Colony by water drinkers”: Brewed in America: A History of Beer and Ale in the United States, Stanley Baron, Little Brown and Company, Boston, 1962, p. 6.

  120 “There are about three hundred men there more or less”: Ibid., p. 4.

  121 “been the death of two hundred”: Ibid., p. 6.

  122 “the change of air, diet”: Of Plymouth Plantation 1620-1647, William Bradford, The Modern Library, New York, 1981, p. 27.

  122 “inns to entertain or refresh their weather-beaten bodies”: Ibid.

  122 “our victuals was only biscuit”: Mourt’s Relation—a relation or journal of the beginning and proceedings of the English plantation settled in plimouth in New England, online at etext.virginia.edu/users/deetz/Plymouth/mourt1.html.

  123 “As this calamity fell”: Bradford, p. 86.

  123 “gave him strong water”: Mourt’s Relation.

  123 “After salutations, our governor kissing his hand”: Ibid.

  124 “6th Obj.: The water is not wholesome.” Bradford, p. 158.

  124 “as healthful, fresh, and lusty as they that drink beer.”: Baron, p. 8.

  124 “If barley be wanting to make into malt,”: Drinking in America: A History, Mark Edward Lender and James Kirby Martin, Macmillan Inc., New York, 1987, p. 5.

  125 “Morton became Lord of Misrule”: Bradford, p. 227.

  125 “Give to the Nymph that’s free from scorn”: Ibid.

  126 “drank so much strong water”: Baron, p. 9.

  127 “it is ordered that no person that keeps an ordinarie”: Ibid., p. 11.

  127 “1. Wm, Renolds is presented for being drunck”: The Liquor Problem in All Ages, Daniel Dorchester, D. D. Phillips & Hunt, New York, 1884, p. 109.

  127 “set up a brew house at his great charge,”: Baron, p. 11.

  128 “the island where we”: John Heckewelder, quoted in Drink: A Social History of America, Andrew Barr, Carrol & Graf, New York, 1999.

  129 “They never make wine or beer”: Description of the New Netherlands, Adriaen Van der Donck, Trans. The Hon Jeremiah Johnson [c. 1642], p. 69.

  129 “covered with their cuirasses”: Deadly Medicine: Indians and Alcohol in Early America, Peter C. Mancall, Cornell University Press, Ithica, 1995, p. 139.

  129 “what he thought the brandy he was so fond of ”: Ibid., p. 75.

  130 “simply to become intoxicated”: Ibid., p. 75.

  11 RESTORATION

  133 “All these gentlemen of the Netherlands”: The Embarrassment ment of Riches, Simon Schama, Vintage Books, 1997, p. 180.

  134 “I do not believe scarce a sober man”: Ibid., p. 190.

  134 “men drink at the slightest excuse”: Ibid., p. 200.

  136 “our drunkenness as a national vice takes its epoch”: A Brief Case of the Distillers and the Distilling Trade, Daniel Defoe, London, 1726, p. 17.

  136 “in a course of drunken gaiety”: Samuel Johnson, Lives.

  136 “Cupid and Bacchus my saints are”: Upon His Drinking Bowl

  137 “frantically fashionable”: Johnson, p. 228.

  138 “You have made us drunk with the juice”: “The politics of Drink in Restoration Drama,” Susan J. Owen, in A Babel of Bottles: Drink, Drinkers and Drinking Places in Literature, Eds. James Nicholls and Susan J. Owen, Sheffield Academic Press, 2000, pp. 45-46.

  138 “freedom from the illegal and intolerable”: Cornell, p. 82.

  139 “a simple innocent thing”: The Social Life of Coffee: The Emergence of the British Coffeehouse, Brian Cowan, Yale University Press, New Haven, 2005, p. 95.

  140 “thick as puddle water”: “A Character of Coffee and Coffee Houses” 1661, London, electronic edition prepared and edited by Emily Clark.

  140 “First, Gentry, Tradesmen, all are welcome hither”: Cowan, p. 102.

  12 RUM

  142 “The chief fuddling they make”: Rum: A social and Sociable history of the Real Spirit of 1778, Ian Williams, Nation Books, New York, 2005, p. 28.

  143 “For when their spirits are exhausted”: Ibid., p. 44.

  143 “This drink is of great use to cure”: Ibid.

  143 “the best way to make . . . their strangers welcome”: Ibid., p. 53.

  143 “lately supplied the Place of Brandy in Punch”: Ibid., p. 52.

  144 “Every Man has a Vote in Affairs of Moment”: A General History of the Pyrates, Daniel Defoe (1724), Dover Publications Edition, New York, 1999, p. 211. [Note: Roberts, the most successful pirate of his period, was fond of tea and drank it from a china service, which his crew had voted to his special use from general plunder.]

  144 “embodiment of impregnable wickedness”: Ibid., p. 85.

  145 “Such a Day, Rum all out”: Ibid., p. 86.

  145 “Black-beard took a Glass of Liquo
r”: Ibid., p. 80.

  145 “as a drinking vessel at the Raleigh Tavern”: “When Blackbeard Scourged the Seas,” George Humphrey Yetter, Colonial Williamsburg Journal, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1992), pp. 22-28.

  146 “so intent upon producing sugar”: Williams, p. 37.

  146 “about one in seven”: The Rise of African Slavery in the Americas, David Eltis, CUP, 2000, p. 127.

  147 “I have repented a hundred times”: Rum, Romance and Rebellion, Charles William Taussig, Milton Balch & Company, New York, 1928, p. 36.

  147 “all the people-men, women, boys”: Spirits and Spirituality: Alcohol in Caribbean Slave Societies, Frederick H. Smith, essay, www.kislakfoundation.org/prize/200102.html.

  147 “As soon as the corpse.”: Ibid.

  147 “never cares to treat”: Ibid.

  148 “When I looked round the ship”: The Interesting Narrative of the Life of Olaudah Equiano, or Gustavus Vassa, the African. Written by himself. New York: Printed by William Durell, 1791, electronic edition from Early Americas Digital Archive.

  148 “I have seen one of our negroes slaughter.”: Smith.

  148-49 “a pot of soup at the head”: Ibid.

  149 “Taking a little of the rum or other liquors”: Ibid.

  149 “The English must bring guns”: Ibid.

  150 “allowance of liquors or wine every day”: “Puritans in Taverns: Law and Popular Culture in Colonial Massachusetts, 1630-1720,” David W. Conroy, in Drinking, Behavior and Belief in Modern History, Eds. Susanna Barrows and Robin Room, University of California Press, 1991, p. 42.

  150 “By a pint of liquor for those who dived for him”: Taussig, pp. 218-19.

  151 “in the midst of eternal Flames”: Conroy, p. 44.

  151 “to suffer anyone to be drunk”: Taussig, p. 210.

  151 “thrust himself into the company uninvited,”: Ibid., p. 212.

  154 “a large Brew House”: Baron, p. 45.

  155 “It argues some Shame in the Drunkards themselves”: New England Courant, September 10, 1722.

  155 “Take counsel in wine”: Poor Richard’s Almanac, 1733.

  156 “that they wonder much of the English”: Mancall, p. 70.

  156 “only one sort of drunkenness”: Ibid., p. 69.

  156 “when we drink it, it makes us mad”: Ibid., p. 96.

  156 “A drunken man is a sacred person”: Ibid., p. 81.

  156 “very often on purpose”: Ibid., p. 80.

  157 “Think you, Sir, that Religion”: Taussig, pp. 24-25.

  157 “if they would continue sober during the Treaty”: Franklin, autobiography, Project Gutenberg etext.

  Colonial Taverns: Becoming America: The Revolution before 1776, Jon Butler, Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 2000.

  13 GIN FEVER

  159 “A Tallow Chandler shall front my Lord’s nice Venetian Window”: “Beer Street: Gin Lane Some Views of 18th Century Drinking,” T. G. Coffey, Quarterly Journal of Studies on Alcohol 27 (1966), p. 670.

  160 “Would you believe it, though water”: Cesar de Saussure, quoted Hibbert, p. 376.

  160 “By this means a Member of the Everlasting Club”: The Spectator, No. 72, May 23, 1711, Project Gutenberg etext.

  161 “the Making of [spirits] from Malted Corn”: Craze, Gin and Debauchery in an Age of Reason, Jessica Warner, Profile Books, London, 2003, p. 33.

  162 “swarming with scandalous wretches”: The Much Lamented Death of Madame Geneva, Patrick Dillon, Review Books, Headline Publishing, London, 2002, p. 22.

  162 “We market women are up early”: Ibid., p. 20.

  163 “Scorch Gut by nature”: Ibid., p. 62.

  163 “the Landed Gentleman”: Coffey, p. 673.

  164 “One may know by your Kiss, that your Ginn is excellent”: The Beggars’ Opera, John Gay, Project Gutenberg etext.

  164 “into all manner of vices and wickedness”: Dillon, p. 90.

  165 “On Sunday night we took the child into the fields and stripp’d it”: Dillon, p. 96.

  165 “came home so much intoxicated”: Warner, p. 68.

  166 “shrivel’d and old as though”: Coffey, p. 671.

  166 “quite intoxicated with Gin”: Dillon, p. 115.

  166 “to so great an excess, that Joss”: Ibid.

  166 “Why, the miserable creatures”: Warner, p. 113.

  167 “hush’d as death”: Dillon, p. 148.

  168 “show twice as many burials”: Coffey, p. 672.

  168 “pour forth unexpectedly from their gloomy cells”: Dillon, p. 229.

  168 “more fond of dram-drinking”: Ibid., p. 164.

  168 “paid over £1,000 to one of his five wine merchants”: Coffey, p. 682.

  169 “We have mortgaged almost every fund”: Parliamentary History, 1743.

  169 “We may not sell any thing”: DD, p. 107.

  171 “the fineness or dullness of the weather”: Dillon, p. 268.

  172 “from the melancholy consequences of gin-drinking”: Ibid., p. 254.

  174 “in the space of ten years, I have observed”: Ibid., p. 273. Also: Henry Fielding, An Enquiry into the Causes of the Late Increase of Robbers (1751), Clarendon Press, Oxford, 1988.

  14 PROGRESS:

  175 “a perpetual comedy”: Travels through France and Italy, Tobias Smollet, Project Gutenberg etext.

  176 “The wine commonly used in Burgundy”: Smollet.

  177 “The king was hunting, and found himself ”: Memoirs of Jacques Casanova de Seingalt 1725-1798, to Paris and Prison, Volume 2a—Paris, Trans. Arthur Machen, Project Gutenberg etext.

  178 The Médoc is a canton in favor”: 1855: A History of the Bordeaux Classification, Dewey Markham Jr., John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York, 1998 p. 46.

  178 “It is a generally recognized truth”: Ibid., p. 45.

  178 “duff-draff drink”: To the King o’er the Water, Scotland and Claret, c. 1660-1763, Charles C. Liddington, Holt, p. 170.

  178 “Gude claret best keeps out the cold”: Ibid.

  179 “go home and not engage in such visionary pursuits”: Cornell, p. 109. fixed air: dbhs.wvusd.k12.ca.us/webdocs/Chem-History/Priestley-1772/Priestley-1772-Start.html.

  180 “fairly got the Disease of the Learned”: The Creation of the Modern World, Roy Porter, W.W. Norton & Company, New York, 2001, p. 89.

  180 “DRUNKENNESS, physically consider’d”: Cyclopaedia (1728) Vol. I, p. 249, online at digital.library.wisc.edu/1711.dl/HistSciTech.Cyclopaedia02.

  181 “seldom, if ever, taste any wine, John Locke, Some Thoughts Concerning Education, Section 19, 1692, etext www.fordham.edu/halsall/mod/1692locke-education.html.

  181 “for the being and service and contemplation of man”: Porter, p. 299.

  181 “commands this species of animal to live”: Ibid., p. 306.

  183 “Tea that helps our head and heart”: Schama, p. 172.

  184 “Were they the sons of tea-sippers”: A Journal of Eight Days’ Journey, London, Jonas Hanway, 1756.

  185 “hardened and shameless tea-drinker”: Review of A Journal of Eight days’ Journey, The Literary Magazine 2, No. 13, Samuel Johnson, 1757.

  186 “the returning situation of those persons”: DD, p. 97.

  186 “the business of men is to be happy”: Porter, p. 100.

  15 REVOLUTION

  187 “IV. However peaceably your Colonies have submitted”: “Causes of the American Discontents before 1768,” Benjamin Franklin, The London Chronicle, Jan. 5-7, 1768.

  190 “a roasted ox, a hogshead of rum”: Baron, p. 71.

  191 “TO the Memory of the glorious NINETY-TWO”: John Singleton Copley, New England Silver & Silversmithing 1620-1815, Eds. Jeannine Falino and Gerald W. R. Ward, The Colonial Society of Massachusetts, distributed by the University Press of Virginia, 2001, pp. 135-151.

  192 “that as the load of malt just arrived”: Baron, p. 93.

  193 “that we will not hereafter”: Ibid., pp. 91-92.

  193 “One family boiled it in a pot”: Barr, p. 31
2.

  194 “Friends! Brethren! Countrymen!”: Ibid., p. 315.

  195 “rash, impolitic, and vindictive measures”: Essex Gazette, May 30, 1774.

  195 “Resolved, that it be recommended”: DD, p. 120.

  195 “would have made a rabbit bite a bulldog”: Williams, p. 172.

  195 “Without New England rum”: 1776, David McCullough, Simon & Schuster, New York, 2005, p. 19.

  196 “so Wine, and Punch will not be wanting”: Letter, Horatio Gates to Benjamin Franklin, November 7, 1775.

  196 “Public Distilleries in different States”: Williams, p. 173.

  196 “wine cannot be distributed”: Ibid., p. 174.

  197 “a head like a cannonball”: McCullough, p. 35.

  197 “a shot had passed through his canteen”: Williams, p. 173.

  197 “I know not why we should blush to confess”: Barr, p. 310.

  198 “the Elk Hill and Beaver-dam hills”: Thomas Jefferson, Memoranda Taken on a Journey from Paris into the Southern Parts of France, and Northern of Italy, in the Year 1787, Vol. II, Memoir, Correspondence and Miscellanies, edited by Thomas Jefferson Randolph, Boston, 1830.

  16 WARRA WARRA

  200 “Cut yer name across me backbone”: The Fatal Shore, Robert Hughes, Vintage Books edition, New York, 1988, p. 292.

  201 “a voyage which, before it was undertaken”: An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, Vol. 1, David Collins, London, 1798, Project Gutenberg etext.

  201 “That [Brazilians] have not learned the art”: Hughes, p. 80.

  201-02 “half a pint of vile Rio spirits”: Ibid., p. 97.

  202 “under the cover of this”: Collins.

  202 “American beef, wine, rum, gin”: Ibid.

  202 “the Hope, commanded by a Mr. Benjamin Page”: Ibid.

  203 “the American spirit . . . by some means or other”: Ibid.

  203 “a woman of the name of Green”: Ibid.

  204 “Indian corn, properly malted”: Ibid.

  205 “recognized medium of exchange”: Rum, Rebellion, H. V. Evatt, Australia’s Great Books Edition, Silverwater, NSW, 1984, p. 26.

  205 “Convict servants were lavishly bestowed”: Ibid.

  205 “old tailors and shoe-makers”: Ibid., p. 29.

  205 “a combination band was entered into”: Ibid., p. 30.

 

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