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by Iain Gately


  207 “as an article of barter”: Ibid., p. 109.

  208 “this sink of iniquity Sydney”: Ibid., p. 113.

  208 “become a perfect hell”: Ibid., p. 120.

  209 “when heated by wine”: Ibid., p. 192.

  209 “and those scenes of riot, tumult”: Ibid., p. 221.

  210 “they obtain Spirits to what Amount”: Ibid., p. 312.

  210 “the greatest part of his time”: Ibid., p. 342.

  210 “forty thousand gallons of spirits . . .”: Ibid., p. 328.

  213 “Bread he began to relish”: A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson, Watkin Tench, London, 1793, Project Gutenberg etext.

  213 “and completely succeeded in trepanning”: Ibid.

  213 “Though haughty, [he] knew how to temporize”: Ibid.

  17 WHISKEY WITH AN E

  215 “How solemn and beautiful is the thought,”: Life on the Mississippi, Mark Twain (1883) Penguin Classics edition, New York, 1986, p. 411.

  216 “an exceedingly valuable lead mine”: The Discovery, Settlement, and Present State of Kentucky, John Filson, 1784, p. 290-etext on www.americanjourneys.org.

  216 “Wedn. 22nd we Start early”: Kentucky Bourbon: The Early Years of Whiskeymaking, Henry G. Growgey, University of Kentucky Press, 1971, p. 23.

  217 “a likely young Negroe”: Ibid., p. 53.

  217 “odious, unequal, unpopular, and oppressive”: Whiskey Rebels—The Story of a Frontier Uprising, Leland D. Baldwin (Revised Edition, 1968), University of Pittsburgh Press, p. 64.

  217 “let loose a swarm of harpies”: Ibid., p. 65.

  217 “the trifling affair”: Ibid., p. 67.

  218 “a breath in favor of the law”: Ibid., p. 80.

  218 “dwarfish, dumpy man with dark red hair”: A History of the American People, Paul Johnson, HarperPerennial edition, New York, 1999, p. 224.

  218 “Is the minister of the French republic”: Ibid.

  219 “horrible sink of treason”: et seq, Baldwin, p. 94.

  220 “I thought it better to be employed”: Ibid., p. 162.

  221 “warlike, accustomed to the use of arms”: Ibid., p. 178.

  222 “my hammer is up”: Ibid., p. 204.

  222 “No sooner does the drum beat”: Ibid., p. 232.

  222 “in Company with a great number”: Ibid., p. 252.

  224 “all the loose females”: The French Quarter: An Informal History of the New Orleans Underworld, Herbert Asbury, 1936, 2003, Thunder’s Mouth Press, New York, p. 4.

  225 “man, like the squirrel in a cage”: Ibid., p. 72.

  226 “For a picayune”: Ibid., p. 101.

  228 “She was as clean and dainty as a drawing room”: Twain, p. 303.

  229 “As thirsty as I was”: Come Hell or High Water, Michael Gillespie, Great River Publishing, Stoddard, Wisconsin, 2001, p. 156.

  230 “Strangers especially are warned”: Barr, p. 38.

  230 “Recipte for the Eyaws”: Growgey, p. 73.

  231 “Nine million women and children”: The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition, W. J. Rorabaugh, Oxford University Press, New York, 1979, p. 11.

  231 “three cocktails and a chaw”: Johnson, p. 402.

  232 “distinguished on the best tables of Europe”: Ibid., p. 383.

  233 “Were it possible for me to speak”: DD, p. 174.

  235 “this infant country has reached a maturity”: Ibid., p. 169.

  235 “with a Constitution and by-laws”: Ibid., p. 181.

  235 “No member shall drink rum, gin, whiskey”: Ibid., p. 182.

  18 ROMANTIC DRINKING

  239 “I have been drunk more than once”: The Sorrows of Young Werther, Johan Wolfgang von Goethe, trans. Catherine Hutter, New American Library Edition, New York, 1962, p. 58.

  240 “The ruddy complexion, nimbleness, and strength”: Scotch: The Whisky of Scotland in Fact and Story, Sir Robert Bruce Lockhart, KCMG, Putnam & Company, London, 4th Edition 1970, p. 8.

  240 “Let other poets raise a fracas”: A Choice of Burns’s Poems and Songs, Faber & Faber, London, 1966, p. 103.

  241 “O temperate bard!”: William Wordsworth, Prelude III 304-07.

  241 “gross and violent stimulants”: Bacchus in Romantic England: Writers and Drink, 1780-1830 (Romanticism in Perspective), Anya Taylor, Palgrave Macmillan, 1998, p. 39.

  242 “It is because so few things give him pleasure”: Ibid., p. 57.

  242 “Ye drinkers of Stingo and Nappy so free”: Ibid., p. 95.

  242 “Wine - some men = musical Glasses”: Ibid., p. 100.

  243 “rotten drunkard . . . rotting out his entrails”: Ibid., p. 103.

  243 “You shall drink Rum, Brandy”: Ibid., p. 76.

  243 “The very thoughts of your coming”: Ibid.

  243 “and pretty smart stuff it is”: Taylor, p. 58.

  243 “now I like Claret whenever I can”: Ibid., p. 172.

  244 “covered his tongue & throat”: Ibid., p. 173.

  244 “Man, being reasonable, must get drunk”: Don Juan CLXXIX.

  245 “Wine robs a man of his self-possession”: Confessions of an English Opium Eater, Thomas De Quincy, Penguin Classics edition, p. 73.

  245 “Opium, like wine, gives an expansion”: Ibid., p. 84.

  247 “excluded from all rational enjoyment”: Taylor, p. 24.

  247 “self-made cheesemonger”: Drink and the Victorians: The temperance Question in England, 1815-1872, Brian Harrison, Faber and Faber, London, 1971, p. 117.

  248 “to the surprise and conviction”: Ibid., p. 122.

  248 “Whisky is the soul of beer”: Ibid., p. 125.

  248 “that he would ‘Be reet down out”: Ibid., p. 126.

  250 “after observing that for many years”: Ibid., p. 128.

  252 “Drunkards’ Death”: Sketches by Boz, Charles Dickens, Project Gutenberg etext.

  19 APOSTLES OF COLD WATER

  253 “Why are the classical models of the last century”: Rorabaugh, p. 199.

  254 “frivolous and dull”: Star Spangled Eden, James C. Simmons, Carroll & Graf Publishers, Inc., New York, 2000, p. 127.

  254 “the mysteries of Gin-sling”: American Notes, Charles Dickens, Project Gutenberg etext.

  254 “the use of ice . . . is an American institution”: Barr, p. 54.

  255 “The quantity of champagne drunk is enormous”: Frederick Marryat, quoted in Barr, p. 101.

  255 Nicholas Longworth: “The Late Nicholas Longworth,” Harper’s Weekly, Vol. VII, No. 323, March 7, 1863.

  256 “strange strawberryish liquor”: Johnson, p. 374.

  256 “Very good in its way”: “Ode to Catawba,” 1854.

  257 “The man who drinks wine”: Barr, p. 176.

  259 “We hold these truths to be self-evident”: “Slaves to the Bottle,” John W. Crowley, in The Serpent in the Cup: Temperance in American Literature, Ed. David S. Reynolds and Debra J. Rosenthal, University of Massachusetts Press, Amherst, 1997, p. 122.

  259 “scurrilous army of ditch-delivered”: “Black Cats and Delerium Tremens,” David S. Reynolds, in Serpent, p. 26.

  259 “Did you ever see a man in delirium tremens”: Ibid., p. 27.

  260 “I unlocked the clothes room door”: Ibid., p. 28.

  260 “in three days for money”: Ibid., p. 50.

  262 “temperance negro operas”: Ibid., p. 22.

  262 “we’ll teach you to drug a harpooneer”: Moby Dick, Herman Melville, 1851, Bantam Classic edition, New York, 1981, p. 339.

  263 “It is a pity that a few drunken Germans”: Barr, p. 244.

  264 “Dinner for your Friends £3 0s 0d”: Williams, p. 83.

  265 “An election in Kentucky lasts three days”: Simmons, p. 11.

  266 “To the victors belong the spoils of the enemy”: Johnson, p. 340.

  267 “Let Van from his coolers of silver drink wine”: Barr, p. 88.

  20 WEST

  269 “for everything bad”: Intoxicated Identities: Alcohol’s Power in Mexica
n History and Culture, Tim Mitchell, Routledge, New York and London, 2004, p. 95.

  270 “your vines will survive and bear fruit”: “Alta California’s First Vintage,” Roy Brady, in The Book of California Wine, Ed. Doris Muscatine, Maynard A. Amerine, and Bob Thompson, University of California Press, Berkeley, 1984, p. 13.

  270 “was being brought here from San Juan Capistrano”: Ibid., p. 13.

  270 “an early maturing dark-skinned bag”: Johnson, p. 386.

  270 “with the exception of what we got at the Mission”: Ibid., p. 388.

  271 “the Californians are an idle, thriftless people”: Two Years before the Mast, Richard Henry Dana, Jr., Penguin Classics edition, New York, p. 125.

  271 “if California ever becomes a prosperous country”: Ibid., p. 305.

  272 “a barrel of whiskey a day”: Johnson, p. 374.

  272 “Drinking was reduced to a system”: Barr, p. 375.

  273 “This continent was intended by Providence”: Johnson, p. 371.

  273 “as destructive and more constant than disease”: White Man’s Wicked Water: The Alcohol Trade and Prohibition in Indian Country, 1802-1892, William E. Unrau, University Press of Kansas, 1996, p. 52.

  274 “Whiskey, whiskey!”: Ibid., p. 20.

  274 “A small bucketful is poured”: The City of the Saints, Sir Richard Burton (1862), reprinted University Press of Colorado, Niwot, Colorado, p. 81.

  275 “The alcohol is put into wagons,”: Unrau, p. 87.

  275 “pledge themselves to make all proper exertions”: Ibid., p. 58.

  276 “Pushing through a noisy, drunken crowd”: The Oregon Trail, Francis Parkman, Project Gutenberg etext.

  277 “do nothing without whiskey”: Burton, p. 24.

  277 “twenty-four mortal days and nights”: Ibid., p. 3.

  278 “I’ll drink mint-juleps, brandy-smashes”: Eden, p. 189.

  279 “kind of cactus called by the whites”: Burton, p. 64.

  279 “the korn-schnapps of the trans-Rhenine”: Ibid., p. 320.

  279 “There are two large and eight small breweries”: Ibid.

  279 “Children and adults have come from England”: Ibid., p. 277.

  280 “this state of things is brought about by a variety of causes”: Unrau, p. 84.

  21 THE KING OF SAN FRANCISCO

  281 “philosophical consolation in various experiments”: Burton, p. 501.

  282 “the rent of a tiny cigar store”: The Barbary Coast, Herbert Asbury, 1933, Alfred A Knopf, Inc., Thunder’s Mouth Press, New York, p. 16.

  282 “The miners came in forty-nine”: Ibid., p. 35.

  283 “who for a few cents would eat”: Ibid., p. 51.

  283 “crowded by thieves, gamblers, low women”: Ibid.

  284 “had not spoken to a woman for two years”: The Shirley Letters (1854-5), Louise A.K.S. Clappe, Peregrine Smith Books, Salt Lake City, p. 27.

  285 “The saturnalia commenced on Christmas evening”: Ibid., p. 92.

  285 “many of the drunkards”: Clappe, p. 87.

  286-

  87 “as he rebounded from the fearsome realms”: Asbury, p. 116.

  287 “Oh, King Alcohol!”: Ibid., p. 117.

  291 “what the African has been to the South”: Brady, p. 26.

  292 “The great obstacle to our success”: Barr, p. 397.

  22 GOOD TASTE

  294 “build the weaknesses of their private lives”: The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture, Rebecca L. Spang, Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Mass., 2001, p. 160.

  295 “I have looked through various dictionaries”: The Physiology of Taste, Anthelme Brillat-Savarin-Project Gutenberg etext.

  297 “Regardless of their value in the arts”: Markham, p. 8.

  297 “this solemn occasion should not be missed”: Ibid., p. 32.

  299 “list of all the red classed growths”: Ibid., p. 98.

  299 “like all human institutions”: Ibid., p. 183.

  299 “among the most useful of nutrients”: Ibid., p. 149.

  300 “a liquor made from the fruit of the vine”: On Wine and Hashish, Charles Baudelaire, Trans. Andrew Brown, Hesperus Press, London, 2002, p. 3.

  300 “My beloved, I want to sing out to you”: Ibid., p. 6.

  300 “His heart swells with happiness.”: Ibid., p. 8.

  302 “as a perfectly regulated instrument”: Paris: Capital of the World, Pa-trice Higonnet, Trans. Arthur Goldhammer, The Belknapp Press of Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Mass., 2002, p.177.

  302 “lined by 34,000 new buildings”: Ibid., p. 186.

  303 “roast cat garlanded with rats” Johnson, p. 367.

  306 “equalling, if not surpassing”: Ibid., p. 420.

  306 “to describe [them] would be a work for Byron”: Ibid., p. 422. German beer: Prost! The story of German Beer, Horst D. Dornbusch, Brewers Publications, Boulder, Colorado, 1997.

  23 EMANCIPATION

  308 “When there shall be neither a slave”: Serpent, p. 123.

  309 “Did not you vote the anti-temperance ticket”: Ten Nights in a Barroom, T. S. Arthur, Project Gutenberg etext.

  310 “Ah, yes, physical slavery”: Serpent, p. 124.

  312 “disgust the slave with freedom”: Narrative of the Life of Frederick Douglass, an American Slave, Project Gutenberg etext.

  312 “a proper rank and standing”: Serpent, p. 110.

  312 “the quartermaster of the army”: Wiliams, p. 247.

  313 “into the delusion that drinking was excusable”: The Life of Johnny Reb, Bell Irvin Wiley, Louisiana State University Press, Baton Rouge (1943) 2000, p. 40.

  313 “the general Davis sent up a barrel”: Ibid., p. 167.

  314 “If it was in my power I would condemn”: Ibid.

  314 “The Whiskey you may depend”: Ibid., p. 187.

  314 “From what I can tell [he] is better able”: Ibid., p. 237.

  316 “immense buildings, fitted up in imitation of a garden”: Baron, p. 180.

  316 “exquisite in some places,”: Ibid., p. 181.

  317 “Just now a note of war”: et seq., Ibid., p. 220.

  318 “hundreds of thousands of women”: Domesticating Drink: Women, Men, and Alcohol in America, 1870-1940, Catherine Gilbert Murdock, John Hopkins University Press, Baltimore and London, 1998, p. 18.

  319 “from speaking at a Sons of Temperance”: Murdock, p. 26.

  321 “a brewer is just as necessary”: Baron, p. 226.

  24 IMPERIAL PREFERENCE

  322 “Here with a loaf of bread”: The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam, 1st (1859) and 5th (1889) editions, Edward Fitzgerald, Dover Publications, Inc. New York.

  322 “pledged 4,000 children between”: Harrison, p. 192.

  323 “a Whole Hog of unwieldy dimensions”: “Household Words,” Charles Dickens, No. 184, Vol. VIII.

  323 “to outlaw all trading”: Harrison, p. 197.

  324 “dictate to the remaining 13/15ths”: Ibid., p. 209.

  324 “a great stock of egg and wine”: Ibid., p. 248.

  325 “If I must take my choice . . .”: Ibid., p. 293.

  326 “a useful expedient only, for the furtherance”: Ibid., p. 190.

  326 “to censure Noah for his”: Ibid., p. 186.

  326 “If an angel from heaven”: Ibid., p. 277.

  327 “Ah, fill the Cup:- what boots it to repeat”: Fitzgerald.

  328 “apoplectic and swollen”: Younger, p. 436.

  329 “Hodgson’s warranted prime picked pale ale”: Cornell, p. 135.

  329 “almost universally preferred by all old Indians”: Ibid., p. 137.

  330 Australia: The Wine Industry of Australia 1788-1979, Gerald Walsh, Wine Talk A.N.U. Canberra, 1979.

  332 “white wines akin to those of the Rhine”: Johnson, p. 373.

  25 LA FEE VERTE

  333 Phylloxera: Phylloxera: How Wine Was Saved for the World, Christy Campbell, HarperCollins, London, 2004.

  335 “the sight of water upsets me”: T
he Book of Absinthe: A Cultural History, Phil Baker, Grove Press, New York, 2001, p. 63.

  335 “it was on absinthe”: Ibid., p. 67.

  335 “The poet must make himself a seer”: Ibid., p. 75.

  336 “Parishit, Junish 72”: Rimbaud—to Ernest Delahaye, Selected Poems and Letters, Arthur Rimbaud, Trans. Jermey Harding and John Sturrock, Penguin Classics edition, London, 2004, p. 249.

  338 “accentuated certain traits”: Baker, p. 118.

  338 “that terrible poison,”: et seq., Ibid., p. 88.

  339 “entirely painted in absinthe”: Ibid., p. 129.

  340 “our fathers still knew the time”: Ibid., p. 124.

  340 “ABSINTHE: Exceedingly violent poison.”: “Green Gold: The Return of Absinthe,” Jack Turner, The New Yorker, March 13, 2006.

  341 Manet The World of Manet, Piere Schneider, Time-Life Books, Alexandria, Virginia.

  341 “a hideous, horrible phallic skeleton”: Higonnet, p. 358.

  343 “I could never quite accustom myself to absinthe”: Baker, p. 30. Absinthe—health campaigns and manufacturers’ promotional material: Virtual Absinthe Museum, www.oxygenee.com.

  26 HATCHETATION

  344 “I have a theory it is compounded”: Asbury, p. 227.

  345 “Bit by bit, they grope about”: The Silverado Squatters, Robert Louis Stevenson (1883), Project Gutenberg etext.

  346 “Messrs. Schuler and Coors”: Baron, p. 250.

  346 “The walk was so uneven”: Ibid., p. 255.

  347 “from the schoolhouses all over the land”: Prohibition: The Era of Excess, Andrew Sinclair, Faber and Faber Ltd., London, 1962, p. 56.

  348 “Such a heart cannot be so strong”: Sinclair, p. 58.

  348 “Daddy was disgusted with neighbor”:: Ardent Spirits: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition, John Kobler, Da Capo Press, New York, 1993, p. 139.

  348 “Swirling round the marked man”: Sinclair, p. 119.

  349 “an inexpensive mode”: Kobler, p. 180.

  350 “The curse of heredity”: Carry Nation: The Woman with the Hatchet, Herbert Asbury, Albert A. Knopf, New York, 1929, p. 41.

  351 “It is very significant”: Ibid., p. 101.

  351 “Glory to God! Peace on earth”: Ibid., p. 103.

  352 “a bulldog running along”: Ibid., p. xvii.

  353 “Carry A. Nation, prophetess of God”: Ibid., p. 211.

 

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