Winter Gatherings
Page 4
2. To roast the beets, wrap each beet in aluminum foil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Cool completely. Slip the skins off the beets. Slice the beets into thick rounds.
3. To prepare the oranges, grate the zest from half an orange into a medium bowl and set aside. Cut about ½ inch from the top and bottom of each orange and stand them on the work surface. Using a serrated knife, cut off the peel where it meets the flesh. Working over a small bowl, cut between the membranes to release the orange segments into the bowl. Squeeze the membranes over the bowl to extract any remaining juice. Measure 2 tablespoons of the orange juice into the bowl with the zest.
4. Whisk together the orange zest, juice, and the balsamic vinegar. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Add the beets, orange segments, and red onion, and toss gently. Serve at room temperature.
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Beets
According to a very unscientific study, performed when creating menus and asking prospective dinner guests if they have any aversions, I have found the most unpopular vegetable: beets. Were the opinions formed during childhood, when forced to eat boring canned beets? Or was it a child’s basic mistrust of all vegetables—especially ones that have an unfamiliar hue?
Beets deserve to be loved for their very uniqueness. Most beets are magenta (but there are striped and yellow ones, too, although I mainly see those in the summer), and they can really brighten up a winter table. Roast them (boiling and steaming drains them of flavor and color) and you’ll be treated to a combination of earthy and sweet flavors. Their juices, made deep red by the pigment betalain, stain like crazy. You’ll release fewer juices if you cut them after cooking. Beet skin is thicker and composed differently than the flesh, so it will slip off easily. There really isn’t a good way to remove beet stains, so if it is a concern, wear latex gloves when handling.
If you can, buy beets with the greens still attached, as the perkiness of the leaves indicates freshness. When trimming off the leaves, or any remaining roots at the tip of the beets, don’t trim them flush, and leave an inch or two attached, as this will help staunch the flow of the juices.
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Poached Leeks with Creamy Vinaigrette
Makes 4 to 6 servings
One January, I found myself in Paris. One of the many pleasures of that trip (and I can assure you that Paris is just as magical when you are sniffling from the cold as when it is warm) was enjoying leeks vinaigrette at a bistro. Simmer the leeks and they’ll hold their slender shape beautifully. The vinaigrette, with a soupçon of crème fraîche, is the perfect counterpoint to the silky leeks.
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12 medium leeks
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream
2/3 cup pure olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
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1. Working with one leek at a time, cut off the dark green top, leaving the white and pale green part intact. Starting about ¼ inch from the root end, slice the leek lengthwise. Rinse well under cold running water, letting the water run between the layers to remove any grit. Transfer to a large bowl of cold water and soak for 10 minutes. Lift the leeks from the water and shake off the excess water.
2. Arrange the leeks, overlapping if necessary, in a large skillet. Add enough lightly salted water to cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer gently until the leeks are tender, about 20 minutes. They should hold their shape; do not overcook.
3. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the leeks to a platter and let cool. One at a time, gently squeeze the excess water from the leeks and give them a uniform shape. Return the leeks to the platter. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 1 and up to 12 hours.
4. Whisk the lemon juice and crème fraîche together in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Pour over the chilled leeks, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.
MAIN COURSES
Roast Chicken with Radicchio, Currant, and Hazelnut Salad
Roasted Salmon on Spicy Lentils
Cod with Grapefruit, Avocado, and Fennel Salad
San Francisco Crab Cioppino
Cracked Crab with Green Goddess Dip
Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust
Roast Eye of Round with Dijon-Caper Sauce
Braised Short Ribs with Dark Beer and Root Vegetables
Sauerbraten
Cider-Brined Roast Pork with Sweet Potatoes and Apples
Baked Ham with Cranberry-Tangerine Glaze
Wine-Braised Sauerkraut and Sausages
Soft Tacos with Chipotle Carnitas
Spanish Panini with Manchego, Jamón Serrano, and Dates
Lamb Shanks with Feta and Olives
Black Bean Chili in Roasted Acorn Squash
Winter Squash Waffles with Maple-Apple Compote
Roast Chicken with Radicchio, Currant, and Hazelnut Salad
Makes 6 servings
The perfect roast chicken has crisp, golden brown skin, juicy flesh, and, in my opinion, very few auxiliary flavors to detract from the chicken itself. Over the years, I have unearthed a few secrets that will help create an irresistible bird, which I have collected and listed in “Tips for a Perfect Roast Chicken” on Chapter 3. In this dish, a vinaigrette is created from the pan juices, which, in turn, is used to dress pleasantly bitter radicchio leaves that are toned down with sweet dried currants. The heat from the dressing and the chicken will lightly wilt the radicchio, which will mellow its flavor even more.
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One 6-to 6½-pound chicken
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons finely minced shallots
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 heads radicchio, cored and torn into bite-size pieces
½ cup (2 ounces) hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and coarsely chopped
1/3 cup dried currants
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1. Pull the pads of yellow fat from either side of the tail of the chicken. Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, coarsely chop the fat and place in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and only crisp cracklings remain in the pan, about 20 minutes. Strain into a small bowl, discarding the cracklings, and cool the fat. You should have 2 to 3 tablespoons of rendered fat.
3. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Rub the fat all over the chicken. Season the chicken inside and out with the salt and pepper. Place the chicken on its side on a wire rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Inserting a wooden spoon in the body cavity, turn the chicken on its other side and roast for 20 minutes more. Turn the chicken breast side up and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh, without touching a bone, reads 170°F, about 1 hour longer. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let stand for 20 minutes before carving. Remove the rack from the pan.
4. Pour the drippings from the pan into a small glass bowl and let stand for 3 minutes. Skim off and discard the clear yellow fat and reserve the brown pan juices. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 1 minute. Add the vinegar and then the remaining ½ cup olive oil. Whisk until well combined, scraping up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat.
5. Combine the radicchio, hazelnuts, and currants in a large bowl. Add the warm dressing and toss. Season the salad with salt and pepper. Transfer the salad to a large platter.
6. Carve the chi
cken. Arrange the chicken over the radicchio salad, and season the chicken lightly with salt and pepper. Serve at once.
Note
To toast and peel hazelnuts, spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven until the skins are cracked and the flesh under the skin is beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Wrap the nuts in a coarse-textured towel and let cool until easy to handle. Rub the nuts in the towel to remove as much skin as possible (you don't need to remove every bit).
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TIPS FOR A PERFECT ROAST CHICKEN
Roast a large bird in order to have leftovers for another meal. Think beyond a cold drumstick for lunch, and consider turning the meat into a salad or casserole.
Don’t discard the carcass from the roast chicken. It can be made into an excellent stock. Saute ¼ cup each chopped onion, celery, and carrot in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large saucepan. Add the carcass, broken up into manageable pieces, and add enough cold water to cover. (If your chicken came with giblets, reserve the neck, heart, and gizzard—but not the liver—and add them to the pot.) Bring to a simmer, skim off any foam from the surface, and add ¼ teaspoon dried thyme and ½ bay leaf. Simmer for a couple of hours, then strain.
The chicken will roast more evenly if allowed to stand at room temperature for an hour or two to lose its chill from the refrigerator. A rinse under lukewarm water will also gently warm up the poultry.
Rendered chicken fat promotes a beautifully browned bird. If the fat has been removed from the tail area of your chicken, substitute 2 tablespoons of softened unsalted butter for the rendered fat. The milk solids in the butter will encourage browning better than olive or vegetable oil.
Turning the bird to expose the skin on all sides to the oven heat also makes a picture-perfect chicken with crackling skin. If you don’t have time to do this, you’ll still have delicious chicken, even if the back skin is a little wan.
Don’t be afraid of the relatively high oven temperature. It will make the chicken splatter, but cleaning the oven is worth the trade-off for a great chicken. You won’t get the same results if you chicken out and reduce the temperature to 350°F.
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Roasted Salmon on Spicy Lentils
Makes 4 servings
Rich salmon can hold its own against bold seasonings. Here, roasted fillets are served on lentils with a blend of southwestern spices. Roasting lightly caramelizes the top of the salmon to deepen the flavor. Small, dark olive green lentilles de Puy have a brighter color than the typical brown lentils, and cook in less time, too. You find them at natural food stores and gourmet shops.
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SPICY LENTILS
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
½ cup seeded and finely diced red bell pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup green French lentils (lentilles de Puy), rinsed and sorted over for stones
2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking sheet
1½ pounds center-cut salmon fillet with skin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
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1. To make the lentils, heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chili powder, cumin, and coriander, and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the lentils, then the stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer until the lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, stir in the salt.
2. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.
3. Lightly oil the salmon flesh and season with salt and pepper. Place the salmon on the baking sheet, skin side down. Cut the salmon vertically into 4 serving portions, but do not separate the pieces. Roast until the salmon shows the barest sign of pink when pierced in the thickest part with the tip of a knife, about 10 minutes.
4. Divide the lentils evenly among 4 soup bowls. Top each with a portion of the salmon, and serve hot.
Cod with Grapefruit, Avocado, and Fennel Salad
Makes 4 servings
This light and refreshing dish puts me in mind of long weekends in Florida or some other tropical paradise. It takes just a few minutes to prepare, but the mélange of colors and textures is restaurant-worthy. Other mild, firm-fleshed fish fillets, such as red snapper or tilapia, can stand in for the cod.
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GRAPEFRUIT, AVOCADO, AND FENNEL SALAD
1 small fennel bulb, preferably with fronds attached
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 ripe avocado, pitted, peeled, and cut into ½-inch dice
1 pink or red grapefruit, peel removed, cut between the membranes into segments
Four 5-to 6-ounce portions cod fillet
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons olive oil
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1. To prepare the salad, cut the fennel in half lengthwise. If the fronds are attached, cut them off and reserve. Cut out and discard the triangular core at the base of the bulb. Cut one fennel half crosswise into thin half-moons. Reserve the remaining fennel half and stalks for another use.
2. Whisk the lemon juice and oil together in a medium bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the fennel, avocado, and grapefruit, and mix gently. Set aside while preparing the cod.
3. Season the cod with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the cod and cover. Cook until the undersides are golden, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook, uncovered, adjusting the heat as needed, until the other side is golden brown and the cod looks barely opaque when flaked in the center with the tip of a knife, about 3 minutes more. Meanwhile, chop enough of the reserved fronds to measure 2 teaspoons.
4. Place a fish fillet and a portion of the salad on each of 4 dinner plates, sprinkle with the chopped fronds, if using, and serve immediately.
San Francisco Crab Cioppino
Makes 6 servings
Cioppino, the Mediterranean-inspired but purely Californian shellfish stew, is one of the best ways to savor the winter’s Dungeness crab. I have many happy memories of cooking up a pot of cioppino in my flat in San Francisco, with its fragrant steam fogging up the kitchen windows. As an experienced cioppino cook and eater, I can tell you that it is as messy to eat as it is delicious. Serve it in large, wide bowls with big napkins (or bibs), nutcrackers, and long-stemmed shellfish forks to get the meat out of the shells, a bowl to collect said shells, and bowls of hot lemon water for cleaning your fingers. And don’t forget crusty sourdough bread!
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3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
1¼ cups chopped fresh fennel
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1½ cups dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in puree
One 8-ounce can tomato sauce
2 cups bottled clam juice
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
½ teaspoon fennel seed