Winter Gatherings
Page 8
2. Meanwhile, heat the oil and garlic together in a large pot over medium heat until the garlic is softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, oregano, and red pepper flakes, and increase the heat to high. Add the mussels and cover tightly. Cook, occasionally shaking the pot, until all of the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels. Remove from the heat and add the butter. Swirl the pot by its handles until the butter has melted into the sauce. Season the sauce with salt to taste (although it is unlikely to need it because of the saline mussels) and more red pepper flakes, if you wish.
3. Drain the linguine well and transfer to the mussel sauce. Using tongs, add equal amounts of linguine, mussels, and sauce to pasta bowls. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve hot.
Winter Greens and Walnut Lasagna
Makes 12 servings
One of my best friends, Skip, is a vegetarian, and I enjoy coming up with vegetarian dishes that even a carnivore would savor. The idea for this lasagna came to me when I was testing recipes for this book and had a refrigerator full of leafy bitter greens. Like most lasagna dishes, it isn’t quick to make, but the return on your time investment is very high.
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FILLING
3 pounds assorted winter greens, such as chard, escarole, and kale
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups whole-milk ricotta
1 cup toasted (see Note) and coarsely chopped walnuts
½ cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan
3 large eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
SAUCE
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole milk, heated
½ cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dried lasagna
4 cups (1 pound) shredded mozzarella
½ cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons butter, cut into small cubes, plus more for the dish
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1. To make the filling, remove the tough stems from the greens. Chop the stems into ½-inch-thick pieces. Fill a sink with cold water and add the stems. Wash the stems well. Lift out of the water and set aside in a bowl; do not dry. Fill the sink with fresh water. A few at a time, stack the leaves and cut crosswise into ½-inch-wide strips. Add to the water and wash well. Lift out of the water and transfer to a large colander; do not dry.
2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the stems and cover. Cook until the stems are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the greens, season with salt and pepper, and cover. Cook until the leaves are very tender, about 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and let cool until easy to handle.
3. A handful at a time, squeeze the excess liquid from the greens, and place the greens in a large bowl. Add the ricotta, walnuts, Parmesan, eggs, parsley, 1½ teaspoons salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and the nutmeg. Mix well.
4. To make the sauce, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in the flour and let the roux bubble without browning for 1 minute. Whisk in the hot milk and increase the heat to medium. Cook, whisking often, until the sauce is boiling and thickened. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and set aside.
5. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lasagna and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold running water.
6. Lightly butter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Spread about 3 tablespoons of the sauce in the bottom of the dish. Layer 4 lasagna noodles, slightly overlapping, in the dish. Spread with one-third of the filling and sprinkle with one-third of the mozzarella. Repeat with two more layers of the noodles, filling, and mozzarella. Top with a final layer of noodles (you will have some left over). Spread with the remaining sauce, sprinkle with the Parmesan, and dot with the butter. (The lasagna can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated.)
7. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and tinged with golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes, then serve hot.
Note
To toast walnuts, spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven, stirring occasionally, until toasted and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Cool completely before chopping.
Cheese Ravioli with Wild Mushroom and Marsala Sauce
Makes 4 to 6 servings
My neighbor Josephine de Pietro runs the best Italian delicatessen in our area, and they make their own ravioli. I find it hard to pass up a bowl of plump, cheese-filled ravioli under any circumstances, but when they are handmade, there’s no turning back. Instead of the familiar tomato sauce, serve this robust mushroom topping, which is perfect for the winter season.
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WILD MUSHROOM AND MARSALA SAUCE
2 tablespoons pure olive oil, plus more as needed
10 ounces cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced
10 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps thickly sliced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup dry Marsala (see Note)
1¼ cups beef or chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth
¼ cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, plus more for garnish
1¼ teaspoons cornstarch
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Two 13-ounce packages large cheese ravioli (24 ravioli)
Freshly grated Parmesan, for serving
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1. To make the mushroom sauce, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. In batches, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, adding more oil as needed, until they give off their juices and begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Add the butter to the skillet and heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Dissolve the tomato paste in the Marsala and stir into the skillet. Increase the heat to high and boil the wine until it is reduced by half, about 1 minute.
3. Combine the stock, cream, and rosemary in a small bowl. Sprinkle in the cornstarch and stir to dissolve. Return the mushrooms to the skillet and pour in the stock mixture. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (The sauce can be made to this point up to 2 hours ahead. Reheat before continuing.)
4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and cook, stirring occasionally, according to the package directions, until tender. Drain well. Return to the pot, add the sauce, and stir gently.
5. Spoon the ravioli into soup bowls and garnish with a sprinkle of rosemary. Serve hot, with the Parmesan on the side.
Note
Marsala, originally a fortified wine from Sicily, is similar to sherry. Bakers use sweet Marsala to make tiramisù and other Italian-style desserts. For savory dishes, such as this one, or the ubiquitous Chicken Marsala you find on many Italian-American menus, it is better to use dry Marsala, which has a less cloying flavor. Madeira or a dry sherry is a good substitute.
Homemade Spaetzle with Herb Butter
Makes 4 to 6 servings
When pressed for a side dish, I often throw together a batch of spaetzle, which could be considered the G
erman answer to homemade pasta. The little noodle blobs are perfect for soaking up gravy, and I always try to serve them with sauerbraten. If you don’t already own one, get an inexpensive spaetzle maker online or at a well-stocked kitchenware shop. Some recipes say you can drip the batter through a colander into boiling water to shape the spaetzle, but that is wishful thinking.
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2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups whole milk
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley or chives, or a combination
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1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat.
2. Whisk the flour, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and make a well in the center. In another bowl, whisk the milk and eggs together until combined. Pour into the well and whisk until smooth and the consistency of pancake batter.
3. Place the spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Pour the batter into the hopper and move it back and forth to force the batter through the holes into the water. When all of the batter has been added, let cook until the spaetzle rise to the surface, and then cook for 1 minute. Drain well. (The spaetzle can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead. Rinse them well with cold running water, then toss with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to keep them from sticking together.)
4. Heat the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Add the spaetzle and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 2 minutes (or 5 minutes for room-temperature spaetzle). Sprinkle with the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
SIDE DISHES
Latkes with Apple-Jalapeño Salsa
Mashed Roots with Crispy Shallots
Potato and Garlic Gratin
Root Vegetables Anna
Mashed Potato Casserole with Smoked Gouda and Bacon
Mom’s Red Cabbage
Five-Spice Applesauce
Braised Kale with Cornmeal Dumplings
Latkes with Apple-Jalapeño Salsa
Makes 12 latkes
Hanukkah is almost always celebrated in late fall, but it is considered a winter holiday. Even though I am not Jewish, I still look forward to my annual reason to dig into a plate of latkes, the potato pancakes that are the classic Hanukkah dish. I serve both this jazzed-up apple condiment as well as the more old-fashioned Five-Spice Applesauce on Chapter 5. One important tip: Don’t skimp on the oil, as latkes are supposed to be fried.
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APPLE-JALAPEÑO SALSA
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and finely diced
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1 jalapeño, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
Pinch of salt
LATKES
2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled
1 medium onion
2 large eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons matzo meal or dried bread crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
Sour cream, for serving
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1. To make the salsa, combine the apple and lime juice in a small bowl. Add the shallots, jalapeño, honey, cilantro, and salt, and mix. Set aside at room temperature while making the latkes.
2. To make the latkes, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200°F. Line a baking sheet with a wire cake rack.
3. Shred the potatoes on the large holes of a box grater into a bowl. Grate the onions into the bowl. (Or, use a food processor to grate the potatoes and onions.) Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Do not be concerned if the potatoes discolor.
4. Pour enough oil into a large skillet to come about 1/8 inch up the side and heat over medium-high heat until the oil shimmers. Using about ¼ cup of the potato mixture for each pancake, spoon into the oil and spread into 3-inch-diameter pancakes. Cook until the underside is golden brown, about 2½ minutes. Turn and cook until the other side is brown, about 2½ minutes more. Transfer to the rack and keep warm in the oven while making the remaining latkes.
5. Just before serving, transfer the latkes to paper towels to drain. (If the latkes remain on the paper towels more than a minute or so, they will get soggy.) Serve immediately, with the salsa and sour cream on the side.
Mashed Roots with Crispy Shallots
Makes 6 servings
Mashed potatoes have their place, but often this earthy mix of carrots, parsnips, and potatoes is even more satisfying. It is certainly more colorful! Topped with a tangle of golden brown shallots, it will have everyone asking for seconds.
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MASHED ROOTS
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick rounds
1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick rounds
1 pound baking potatoes, such as russet or Burbank, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons heavy cream, as needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
CRISPY SHALLOTS
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 shallots, cut crosswise into thin rounds, separated into rings
¼ cup all-purpose flour
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1. To prepare the mashed roots, combine the carrots, parsnips, and potatoes in a large saucepan, and add enough salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until tender, about 25 minutes.
2. Drain well and return the vegetables to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until they begin to film the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes.
3. Remove from the heat. Add the butter and mash, adding enough heavy cream to reach the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover tightly to keep warm.
4. To make the shallots, line a baking sheet with paper towels. Pour enough oil into a large saucepan to come 1 inch up the side. Heat over high heat until the oil is shimmering. Toss the shallots with the flour and shake off the excess flour. Add the shallots to the oil and cook until golden brown, about 15 seconds. (Do a test run first with a few shallot rings to check the oil temperature.) Using a wire skimmer, lift the shallots out of the oil and drain briefly on paper towels.
5. Transfer the mashed roots to a serving dish, top with the crispy shallots, and serve immediately.
Potato and Garlic Gratin
Makes 8 servings
Every year at Christmas dinner, I have to serve this gratin by popular demand. Even though I have recipes for gratins with much bolder flavor profiles, there must be something about the simplicity of the combination of potatoes, cream, and garlic that makes this one so comforting. Yes, it takes an entire quart of cream, but that is the secret to the recipe. If someone asks why this is so much better than their scalloped potatoes, do what I do—fib about the amount of cream. The gratin takes some time to cook, so don’t rush it.