Book Read Free

Flavor

Page 30

by Bob Holmes


  pleasure, and reward, 42

  pleasure palace, 105

  poblano peppers, 90

  polyphenols, 208

  polyunsaturated fats, 235–36

  potassium, 32, 100, 216

  potato chips, 104, 111

  potatoes, 221–22

  Prescott, John, 110

  Pringles potato chips, 111

  propionic acid, 241

  propylthiouracil (PROP), 14, 34, 37, 38, 41

  protein molecules, 52

  proteins, 16, 22, 34, 184, 207, 238, 266

  Proust, Marcel, 5, 77

  pseudogenes, 53

  “pure compounds,” 198

  putrid (caprylic or goaty), 50

  quantum tunneling, 48–49

  quinine, 38, 41

  radicchio, bitterness of, 25

  rancidity, 35–36

  rattlesnakes, 89

  Red Bull, 193, 199

  Reed, Danielle, 25, 39–42, 43

  reinforcement, intermittent, 139

  repulsive odor, 61

  research:

  on coffee, 111–12, 224

  creating flavors, 164–201

  GWAS, 152

  on how to grill a steak, 238–40

  meta-analyses, 222–23

  olfaction, 44–61

  Pavlov and, 135

  placebos in, 27, 28

  on rodents, 35, 36, 134–35, 150–51, 162

  on satiety, 147–48, 150–51, 162

  on wine grapes, 215–19

  resiniferatoxin, 90

  respiratory passages, taste receptors in, 33–34

  retronasal olfaction, 68–71, 176

  ripeness, 115, 205, 208, 212

  Rolls, Edmund, 122–23, 127–29, 146

  Roosevelt, Franklin D., 228

  root beer, 175–76

  Roquet, Laurence, 178

  rose scent, 45–46

  rotten odor, 62

  Rozin, Paul, 8, 96

  Rutgers University, 42

  Saarinen, Eero, 252

  saccharin, 29, 30

  safrole, 175

  saliva, 40

  salt, 25, 28

  and blood pressure, 31

  as flavor enhancer, 31, 266

  reducing sodium in, 31–32

  salt substitutes, 31–33

  salty taste, 8, 16, 22, 34, 115, 247

  sanshool, 100, 102

  sassafras root, 175

  satiety signals, 162

  sausages, 32–33

  savor, use of term, 8

  Scent of Mystery (movie), 81

  Schatzker, Mark, 196

  Sclafani, Anthony, 134–35

  Scoville, Wilbur, 89

  Scoville heat units, 89–90, 93, 97

  scratch-and-sniff cards, 81

  sea lions, 17

  seasonal ingredients, 242

  seasoning, 4–5

  secondary compounds, 223

  secondary metabolites, 207

  seeds:

  dropping, 208

  poisons in, 209

  sensation seekers, 98

  senses:

  and cultures, 109, 241

  interplay of, 2–3, 5, 9

  purposes of, 47–48

  sensitivity to reward, 98

  sensory integration, 117–21

  sensory neuroscience, 122

  sensory-specific satiety, 129, 145–46, 150

  sensory template, 160

  Serer-Ndut people of Senegal, 62

  serrano peppers, 90

  shaking hands, 66

  “shapists,” 49

  Shepherd, Gordon, 56–57, 68, 71, 121

  Neurogastronomy, 57

  Silver Palate Cookbook, The (Rosso and Lukins), 264

  Simons, Chris, 99–100

  sinus infections, 34

  skatole, 235

  Slow Food movement, 264–65, 267–68

  Small, Dana, 132, 136–38, 162, 208

  small plates, 145–46

  smell:

  artificially reproduced sensations of, 80–85

  deconstructing, 60–61, 63

  information gleaned from, 5, 8, 15

  loss of sense of, 151, 152–61

  as process, 68

  “sense of,” 68–70

  as synthetic sense, 55

  testing, 63–64

  triangle test, 51–52

  see also olfaction

  Smell-O-Vision, 81

  snack foods, pairings, 246

  sniffing, 68, 69

  Sobel, Bob, 164–66, 168, 169, 176, 183–84, 266

  Sobel, Noam, 57–58, 64, 66, 67, 71, 164

  sodium, 22, 26, 31–32, 34

  sodium chloride, 28

  sodium citrate, 76

  soils:

  effects on flavor, 219

  unique microbial ecosystems in, 218, 220

  vineyard, 216–17

  solubility, 232–33

  somatosensation, 87, 104

  sorbet, 102

  sound:

  flavor affected by, 111–13

  frequency of vibration, 61

  sour taste, 8, 16, 17, 22, 28, 34

  soy sauce, 240

  Spence, Charles, 107–14, 116–17, 121, 257

  spices, 4–5

  spicy odor, 61

  spinach, research in, 214–15

  squash, 224–26

  how to roast, 225

  Starbucks White Chocolate Mocha, 195

  starches:

  and sugars, 16

  taste for, 36

  steak:

  how to grill, 238–40

  sizzle of, 110–11

  Stevenson, Richard, 109

  stevia, 30

  stomach, fullness in, 147–48

  strawberries, 108

  creating the flavor of, 82–83, 173–75, 176–77, 196

  expectation of, 116, 117

  flavor in, 212–14, 220

  flavor vs. yield in, 212

  genotyping, 213

  growing temperatures of, 213–14

  hydroponic production of, 214

  as “nonclimacteric fruit,” 212

  volatile chemicals in, 212–13

  strawberry aldehyde, 83

  sucralose, 29

  sucrose, 28, 30, 109

  sugars, 23, 25, 181

  in diet, 150–51

  in fruits, 203, 210, 212, 225, 227

  low-sugar diet, 144–45

  and Maillard reaction, 236–37

  peak sweetness in, 30

  in plants, 207

  reduction of, 197

  in soft drinks, 30

  as source of calories, 16

  sulfur atoms, 184, 238

  supertasters, 13–15, 37–38, 39

  food adventurous, 42–43

  and pain in chilis, 96

  picky eaters, 42

  Suya of Brazil, 61–62

  sweet taste, 8, 16, 22–23, 28

  artificial sweeteners, 29–30, 139

  craving for, 144–45

  loss of ability to discern, 17

  perception of, 210

  popularity of, 28–31

  sweet taste receptors, 30–31, 33, 34, 40

  tagette oil, 168

  tannins, 87

  tastant, 22

  taste:

  as analytic sense, 55

  and aroma, 109

  broad categories of, 16

  decisions based on, 17, 48

  fading with age, 156

  five basic tastes, 8, 10, 16, 22–23, 50, 61

  genetic differences in perceptions of, 39–43

  intensity of, 38

  interactions of, 37

  learned, 35, 42, 121, 133

  other types of, 36–37, 50

  use of term, 8–9

  and viscosity, 94

  taste buds, 13, 38–39

  Taste Buds and Molecules (Chartier), 248

  taste cells, 22

  taste receptors, 22–23, 24, 28, 72

  all over the body,
33

  and genetics, 152

  loss of, in disease, 20

  promiscuous, 23

  T1R3, 23, 40–41

  T2R19, 41

  T2R31, 30

  T2R38, 34, 37–38, 41–42, 221

  on the tongue, 38–39, 48, 96

  taste sensitivity, 39

  tasting menus, 145–46

  tea, 102–3

  Technical University of Munich, 83

  Tepper, Beverly, 42–43

  terpenes, 232–33

  terpinyl propionate, 170

  terroir, 218

  Texas A&M University, 238

  texture, 104, 149

  Thai bird’s eye chili, 86, 90, 93

  thalamus, 58

  thiol, 218, 266

  thiourea group, 38, 41–42

  This, Hervé, 197–201

  thought:

  as flavor sense, 123

  higher-order, 131

  Time-Life, Foods of the World, 264

  Tiny Tim, 51–52

  Todd, Mike, Jr., 81

  Tohono O’odham people, 264–65

  Tolstoy, Leo, 22

  tomatoes, 202–7

  alleles of, 226–27

  avoiding refrigeration of, 210–11

  commercial traits of, 204

  demand for flavor in, 211

  flavor sacrificed for yields, 203, 210

  heirlooms, 204, 211, 227

  nutrients in, 208

  red color of, 206–7, 226

  sold “on the vine,” 211

  supermarket, 202–3

  sweetness in, 206–7, 210

  volatile odor compounds in, 203, 205–6, 209–10

  water in, 203

  tomato intensity, 206

  tomato stem smell, 210

  tongue:

  taste buds on, 13, 38–39

  taste maps of, 17–18

  taste receptors on, 38–39, 48, 96

  tonic water, 37, 41

  touch receptors, 95

  and astringency, 102–4

  TRPM8, 89

  TRPV1, 88–89, 91, 93, 96

  toxins, bitter tastes of, 16–17, 33, 34, 48

  transcranial magnetic stimulation (TMS), 130–31

  trial and error, 241, 247

  triangle test, 51–52

  trigeminal sense, 87

  triglycerides, 35–36

  trimethylamine, 247

  Trought, Mike, 215–17

  truffles, 75

  TV dinners, 262, 263

  2-ethylfenchol (2-EF), 79

  Twombly, Cy, 57

  umami taste, 8, 16, 17, 22–23, 24–28

  and benzaldehyde, 109

  foods rich in, 28

  and MSG, 25–28

  umami taste receptors, 24–25, 33, 34, 40

  University of Bordeaux, France, 115

  University of California, Davis, 192, 204, 215, 258, 270

  University of California, Riverside, 179

  University of Copenhagen, 249

  University of Florida, Gainesville, 202

  University of Pennsylvania, Smell and Taste Center, 153–54

  University of Pennsylvania Smell Identification Test (UPSIT), 46–47, 155

  University of Reading, England, 219

  urinous odor, 62

  U.S. Army, field rations, 244–46

  vampire bats, taste loss of, 17

  vanillin, 80, 168, 195–96, 201

  vegetables:

  caramelization of, 238

  commodity system for, 224–25

  dissuading you from eating them, 208

  enzyme activity in, 221

  flavor changes after picking, 221–22

  flavor in, 205, 208–9

  organic, 222–34

  storage of, 221–22

  venison, 114

  Venter, Craig, 53

  ventriloquists, 118

  ventromedial prefrontal cortex, 138

  “vibrationists,” 49

  vinegar, 28, 169

  viscosity, 94

  vision:

  and change blindness, 67

  sense of, 55, 56, 130–31

  visual rhyme, and expectations, 114–16

  viticulturists, 215

  voices, sounds of, 51–52

  volatile aroma molecules, 203, 205–6, 207–10, 212–13, 221, 227, 232–33, 236

  volatility, 51, 52

  below-threshold, 210

  refrigeration vs., 210–11

  Wagstaff, Carol, 219–21

  wasabi, 88, 94

  wasabi receptor, 88

  water:

  basic taste for, 36

  effect on flavor, 219

  in fruit, 203

  watermelon, 168

  water solubility, 232–33

  Watson supercomputer, 252–57

  weight control, 145, 146–47, 161

  Whitaker, Vance, 211–14, 220

  wine:

  aroma wheel, 192–93

  astringency in, 102–3

  competitions of, 124–25

  decanting, 258–59

  expectation in, 115–16

  fermentation phase in, 218, 240

  flavor perception of, 123–27, 215

  learning about, 270

  “minerality” of, 216–17

  mouthfeel of, 87

  and music, 113

  of New Zealand, 215–19, 268

  paired with foods, 230–31, 248

  presentation of, 257–59

  sauvignon blanc, 218–19, 230

  and soil, 216–17

  and terroir, 218

  and yeast, 218, 219

  wine experts, noses of, 60–61, 76, 268

  wine grapes, research on, 215–19

  wintergreen, 175–76

  Wise, Paul, 101

  words, flavors in, 113

  Wrangham, Richard, 4

  Wysocki, Charles, 74–75, 79, 157

  Yager, Patricia, 153–56, 159, 160–61

  yeast, 218, 219, 240, 241

  yogurt, 114, 116

  Yupik people, 143

  Zampini, Max, 111

  Zearfoss, Jonathan, 229–32, 242

  Zhen, Willa, 265

  Copyright © 2017 by Bob Holmes

  All rights reserved

  First Edition

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  COM

  The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:

  Names: Holmes, Bob (Evolutionary biologist), author.

  Title: Flavor : the science of our most neglected sense / Bob Holmes.

  Description: First edition. | New York : W.W. Norton & Company, [2017] |

  “Independent Publishers Since 1923.” | Includes bibliographical references and index.

  Identifiers: LCCN 2016046897 | ISBN 9780393244427 (hardcover)

  Subjects: LCSH: Taste. | Taste buds. | Flavor. | Senses and sensation.

  Classification: LCC QP456 .H66 2017 | DDC 612.8/7—dc23

  LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016046897

  ISBN 978-0-393-24443-4 (e-book)

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