17. Louis Jacobson, “Ancient Sandal-Makers Were a Step Ahead,” Washington Post, March 23, 1998; Hays-Gilpin, Deegan, and Morris, Prehistoric Sandals, 38–39, 121–22.
18. Stewart, “Footgear,” 121.
19. Jonathan Norton Leonard, Early Japan (New York: Time-Life Books, 1972), 110; Bernard Rudofsky, The Kimono Mind (London: Victor Gollancz, 1965), 49–50; Richard J. Bowring, “Geta,” in A Hundred Things Japanese (Tokyo: Japan Cultural Institute, 1975), 42–43; Traditional Japanese Footwear (Toronto: Bata Shoe Museum, 1999), n.p.; John Fee Embree, Suye Mura: A Japanese Village (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1939), 100; We Japanese (Fujiya Hotel, n.d.), 144; Junichi Saga, Memories of Silk and Straw: A Self-Portrait of Small-Town Japan, trans. Garry O. Evans (Tokyo: Kodansha, 1987), 230–32; Liza Crihfield Dalby, Kimono: Fashioning Culture (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1993), 169.
20. “Straw Ware,” Kodansha Encyclopedia of Japan (Tokyo: Kodansha, 1983), vol. 7, 249; “Zori,” ibid., vol. 8, 379; “Waraji,” ibid., vol. 8, 223; Basil Hall Chamberlain, Things Japanese, 5th ed. (London: Kegan Paul, 1927), 38; Susan B. Hanley, Everyday Things in Premodern Japan: The Hidden Legacy of Material Culture (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1997), 51–76; Koizumi Takeo, “Japan’s Rich Rice Culture,” Japan Quarterly, January 1999, 58ff.; Leonard, Early Japan, 112; Traditional Japanese Footwear, n.p.; “Big Foot: A Sandal Made of Straws Symbolising Japan’s Protection Is Dedicated to the Sensoji Temple, Tokyo [photograph],” The Independent (London), November 1, 1998, 2; Dalby, Kimono, 169.
21. Wilson, A History of Shoe Fashions, 32–33.
22. Nelson, Hawaii, 9; K. Nishio, “Die Häufigkeit der Fußmykosen in Japan,” Archiv für Klinische und Experimentelle Dermatologie, vol. 227, no. 1 (1966), 581–83.
23. Tadashi Kato and Showri Watanabe, “The Etiology of Hallux Valgus in Japan,” Clinical Orthopedics and Related Research, vol. 157 (June 1981), 78–81.
24. Edward S. Morse, Japanese Homes and Their Surroundings (New York: Dover Publications, 1961), 238–39; Dalby, Kimono, 86–87.
25. Alice Mabel Bacon, Japanese Girls and Women (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1891), 15.
26. Nancy Stedman, “Learning to Put the Best Shoe Forward,” New York Times, October 27, 1998; Ko Tada, “Comparative Analysis of Walking Patterns with Flip-flops Between American and Japanese Males,” M.A. thesis, Western Michigan University, 1997, 63–64; Mikiyoshi Ae and Toshiharu Yamamoto, “Soryoku wo kyoka suru” (“Strength of the Sprinter”), Training Journal, no. 159 (January 1993), 20–25; no. 160 (January 1993), 42–45 (I am indebted to Kiyoko Heineken of the Gest Oriental Library at Princeton University for her summary of this article, cited in the thesis of Ko Tada); Michael Cooper, ed., They Came to Japan: An Anthology of European Reports on Japan, 1543–1640 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1965), 210–11.
27. Stedman, “Best Shoe”; Tada, “Walking Patterns,” 1–2, 13–15; Ae and Yamamoto, “Soryoku wo kyoka suru,” 159–60, 20–25, 42–45.
28. Barbara F. Kawakami, Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii, 1885–1941 (Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1993), 153–61.
29. http://ScottHawaii.com; Steve Scott, telephone interview, September 14, 1999; Charles Rippin, personal communication, February 9, 2003; Kathryn Bold, “Summer Flops: Say Goodby to ‘Blowouts’ with Beach Sandals That Borrow the High-Tech Features of Athletic Shoes,” Los Angeles Times, July 13, 1995.
30. Robert T. Elson, Prelude to War (Alexandria, Va.: Time-Life Books, 1977), 144–45; Ashizawa et al., “Relative Foot Size,” 118; Bernard Rudofsky, Sparta/Sybaris (Vienna: Residenz Verlag, 1987), 130–31.
31. John Henry Thornton, Textbook of Footwear Materials (London: National Trade Press, 1955), 219–33; Phillip Nutt, personal communication, June 15, 1998.
32. Yoshiaki Shimizu, conversation, February 17, 1999.
33. Bold, “Summer Flops”; Miriam Jordan and Terry Agins, “Fashion Flip-flop: Lowly Sandal Leaves the Shower Behind,” Wall Street Journal, August 8, 2002.
34. “From an Oriental Teahouse,” advertisement, House Beautiful, May 1958, 97; “Dress Zori Sandals,” advertisement, House Beautiful, April 1964, 90.
35. “Swan Thong,” Sydney Morning Herald, December 27, 1991; Geoffrey Blainey, Jumping Over the Wheel (St. Leonards, N.S.W.: Allen & Unwin, 1993), 299–300; Adam Edwards, “The Flip-Side of a Fashion Frontier,” Evening Standard (London), February 17, 1993; Jan Freeman, “Hear My Thong,” Sunday Age (Melbourne), December 20, 1992; Sue Hewitt, “Hits and Memories at the Top of the Thong Parade,” Sunday Age, December 17, 1995.
36. Robert W. Mann, “Three Examples of Vietnamese Footwear from the Vietnam Conflict,” Journal of the American Podiatric Medical Association, vol. 85, no. 1 (January 1995), 61; Nguyen Bay and Thai Bang, “Vietnam Life: Story of a Bodyguard,” Saigon Times Magazine, June 1, 1997, n.p.; Ed Timms, “South Vietnamese Veterans Faced Different Struggles After War,” Dallas Morning News, April 25, 1995.
37. Steve Scott, telephone interview, September 14, 1999; Nelson, My Time in Hawaii, 8–9.
38. Phillip Nutt, personal communication, June 15, 1998; Lu-Lin Cheng, “Embedded Competitiveness: Taiwan’s Shifting Role in International Footwear Sourcing Networks” (Ph.D. diss., Duke University, 1996), 2–20, 77–80.
39. Small-Scale Manufacture of Footwear (Geneva, Switzerland: International Labour Office, 1982), 13–71, 117–19; Cheng, “Embedded Competitiveness,” 81–82.
40. These data are drawn from telephone interviews with Phillip Nutt and unpublished reports he kindly supplied; also, “Japanese in Kenya Work for a Healthier Africa,” Daily Yomiuri, May 1, 1997, n.p.; Robin Eveleigh, “Flip-flops Get to the Soul of the Nation,” Financial Times, November 20–21, 1999; Jordan and Agins, “Fashion Flip-flop.”
41. Philip Williams, “Eritrean Rebel Campaign Backed by Hidden Factories, Ethiopian POWs,” Los Angeles Times, January 1, 1989.
42. Jen Nessel, “Why I Love Shoes: A Social Code for Sandal Wearers,” Self, May 1997, 146.
43. Paul Trachtman, “Hands-on Toys,” Smithsonian, vol. 28, no. 3 (December 1993), 128–33; Suzanne Seriff, “Folk Art from the Global Scrap Heap: The Place of Irony in the Politics of Poverty,” in Charlene Cerny and Suzanne Seriff, eds., Recycled: Folk Art from the Global Scrap Heap (New York: Abrams, 1996), 12; Paul Webster, “Danger on the Beach: World Polluters Beware,” Observer, November 24, 1996; N. G. Willoughby et al., “Beach Litter: An Increasing and Changing Problem for Indonesia,” Marine Pollution Bulletin, vol. 34, no. 6 (June 1997), 469–78; Ian Anderson, “This Beach Ain’t Big Enough for the Both of Us,” New Scientist, vol. 151, no. 2043 (August 17, 1996), 12.
44. Will Englund and Gary Cohn, “A Third World Dump for America’s Ships?” Baltimore Sun, December 9, 1997; William Gordon, “Christmas Comes to Port Newark,” Newark Star-Ledger, December 23, 1998; Paul Watson, “Calcutta’s Homeless: A City unto Themselves,” Toronto Star, May 4, 1996; Jennifer Lin, “Poor, Middle Class Left Hungry, Angry as Indonesia’s Economic Crisis Worsens,” Dallas Morning News, October 9, 1998; “Iraq: Surviving Sanctions,” Economist, December 12, 1998, 47.
45. Bold, “Summer Flops.”
CHAPTER FOUR
1. Valerie Steele, Shoes: A Lexicon of Style (New York: Rizzoli, 1999), 169.
2. David Orr, “Slow Knowledge,” Designer/Builder, vol. 4, no. 8 (December 1997), 5–9.
3. Gordon James Knowles, “Dealing Crack Cocaine: A View from the Streets of Honolulu,” FBI Law Enforcement Bulletin, vol. 65, no. 7 (July 1996), 7.
4. Andrew Maykuth, “Apartheid Prison Now Memorial to Human Spirit,” Times-Picayune (New Orleans), March 23, 1997; Jeff Testerman, “Inmate Caught After Fleeing Courtroom,” St. Petersburg (Florida) Times, July 22, 1989; Chris Sosnowski and Rochelle Killingbeck, “Manhunt Nabs Escapees,” The Post and Courier (Charleston, S.C.), December 28, 1985; David Cannella, “New Shoes Trip Up Fugitive,” Arizona Republic, May 29, 1990; James D. Henderson, W. Hardy Rauch, and Richard L. Phillips, Guidelines for the Development of
the Security Program, 2nd ed. (Lanham, Md.: American Correctional Association, 1997), 109–10.
5. Charles L. Perrin, “Sneaker FAQ and Glossary,” http://www.pair.com/sneakers/; Sylvia Rubin, “Cops, Courts, Crooks and Creeps Featured in New Syndicated Shows,” San Francisco Chronicle, September 8, 1996; Mary Jane Fine, “Unlikely Outlaws,” Sunday Record (Bergen County, N.J.), November 22, 1998; Stephanie A. Stanley, Ralph Vigod, and Joseph Cambardello, “Police Come to Admire the Area’s ‘Burglar to the Stars,’” Philadelphia Inquirer, November 22, 1998; William J. Bodziak, Footwear Impression Evidence (New York: Elsevier, 1990); Andrea Codrington, “Technology and Design Run Wild in the Soles of the Newest Sneakers,” New York Times, November 6, 1997.
6. John W. Fountain, “Noted with … Pride; Way Black When,” Washington Post, July 25, 1999; Tom Wolfe, Bonfire of the Vanities (New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1987), 110; William Leith, “Pump It Up,” The Independent (London), July 8, 1990.
7. Michelle Higgins, “The Ballet Shoe Gets a Makeover, but Few Yet See the Pointe,” Wall Street Journal, August 18, 1998.
8. Wolfgang Decker, “Die Lauf-Stele des Königs Taharka,” Kölner Beiträge zur Sportwissenschaft, vol. 13 (1984), 7–37; E. Norman Gardiner, Athletics of the Ancient World (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1930), 128–33, fig. 87; E. Norman Gardiner, Greek Athletic Sports and Festivals (London: Macmillan, 1910), 271–73; H. A. Harris, Greek Athletes and Athletics (London: Hutchinson, 1964), 66–77; Marc Bloom, “Judging a Path by Its Cover,” Runner’s World, vol. 32, no. 3 (March 1997), 54–62; Melvin P. Cheskin, The Complete Handbook of Athletic Footwear (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1987), 2–3.
9. Joseph B. Oxendine, American Indian Sports Heritage (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1995), 67–89; John Weyler, “They’re Sole Survivors in Race for Life,” Los Angeles Times, October 16, 1997; Nancy Nusser, “Indian Runners Trounce World’s Ultra-Marathoners,” Orange County Register, April 23, 1995; Graciela Sevilla, “Running with ‘the Light-Footed Ones,’” Arizona Republic, June 4, 1995; Peter Severance, “The Legend of the Tarahumara,” Runner’s World, vol. 28, no. 2 (December 1993), 74–80; Peter Nabokov, Indian Running (Santa Barbara: Capra Press, 1981), 179–82; “Mohave,” The Gale Encyclopedia of North American Tribes (Detroit: Gale Research, 1998), vol. 2, 206–11.
10. Michael Olmert, “Points of Origin,” Smithsonian, vol. 13, no. 1 (April 1982), 38–42; Earl R. Anderson, “Footnotes More Pedestrian Than Sublime: A Historical Background for the Foot-Races in Evelina and Humphrey Clinker,” Eighteenth-Century Studies, vol. 14, no. 1 (Autumn 1980), 56–68; Phyllis Cunnington, Costume of Household Servants: From the Middle Ages to 1900 (London: Adam and Charles Black, 1974), 100–103.
11. Anne D. Wallace, Walking, Literature, and English Culture: The Origins and Uses of Peripatetic in the Nineteenth Century (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1993), 17–66; George Moss, “The Long Distance Runners of Ante-Bellum America,” Journal of Popular Culture, vol. 8, no. 2 (Fall 1974), 370–82; Walter Bernstein and Milton Meltzer, “A Walking Fever Has Set In,” Virginia Quarterly Review, vol. 56, no. 4 (Autumn 1980), 698–731; Don Watson, “Popular Athletics on Victorian Tyneside,” International Journal of the History of Sport, vol. 11, no. 3 (December 1994), 485–94.
12. Bernstein and Meltzer, “Walking Fever,” 700–701; Edward Lamb, “‘Weston the Walker’ Made Pedestrianism a Way of Life,” Smithsonian, vol. 16, no. 4 (July 1979), 89; Moss, “Long Distance Runners,” 380; Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 20–23.
13. Bernstein and Meltzer, “Walking Fever,” 701; Sue Moore, “Fresh Air on a High-Tech Shoestring,” The Times (London), March 6, 1991; Anne Caborn, “Reebok Head’s Finest Feat,” Sunday Telegraph (London), December 17, 1989; 1897 Sears Roebuck Catalog (New York: Chelsea House, 1968), 35, 203, 206, 190–201; Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 16–19.
14. Hal Higdon, A Century of Running: Celebrating the 100th Anniversary of the Boston Athletic Association Marathon (Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, 1995), 71, 73; Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 27–33.
15. Ralph F. Wolf, India Rubber Man: The Story of Charles Goodyear (Caldwell, Idaho: The Caxton Printers, 1939), 40–54; Samuel Americus Walker, Sneakers (New York: Workman, 1978), 15, 18–20.
16. George R. Vila, The Story of Uniroyal: 75 Years of Progress (New York: The Newcomen Society, 1968), 8–11; John R. Stilgoe, Alongshore (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1994), 73–76; Melanie Rickey, “Flash of Genius,” The Independent (London), June 29, 1996.
17. Rochelle Chadakoff, “Sneaking in Style,” Rocky Mountain News, May 19, 1994; Laurie Lawlor, Where Will This Shoe Take You? (New York: Walker, 1996), 105; Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 17; Cheskin, Athletic Footwear, 6–7.
18. “Tools of the Track,” To r onto Star, September 3, 1996; Fila, Story of Uniroyal, 10–12; Cheskin, Athletic Footwear, 7–12; Walker, Sneakers, 21, 26, 50–51.
19. Cheskin, Athletic Footwear, 12–14, 60–61; Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 33; Phillip Nutt, telephone interview, November 15, 1999.
20. William Ecenbarger, “A Trend Afoot,” Chicago Tribune Sunday Magazine, April 18, 1993; Walker, Sneakers, 78–79, 84; Tom Vanderbilt, The Sneaker Book: Anatomy of an Industry and an Icon (New York: New Press, 1998),13–14; Richard Cohen, “Sneakers as Metaphor,” Washington Post Magazine, September 8, 1991.
21. Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 72–77; Kathleen Low, “In the Days When Sports Shoes Weren’t Fashionable,” Footwear News, vol. 41 (October 6, 1985), 42ff.
22. Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 33–46; Ronald P. Dore, Shinohata: A Portrait of a Japanese Village (New York: Pantheon Books, 1978), 77–78; Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 77.
23. Walker, Sneakers, 29; Peter Levine, A. G. Spalding and the Rise of Baseball: The Promise of American Sport (New York: Oxford University Press, 1985), 88; Cheskin, Athletic Footwear, 55–57; Phillip Nutt, telephone interview, November 15, 1999.
24. Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 97; Vanderbilt, Sneaker Book, 29–30; Kenny Moore, “An Outrageous Stand,” Sports Illustrated, vol. 75, no. 6 (August 5, 1991), 60ff.; Kenny Moore, “The Eye of the Storm,” Sports Illustrated, vol. 75, no. 7 (August 12, 1991), 60 ff.; Steele, Shoes, 172, 183; William Ecenbarger, “A Trend Afoot,” 27ff.
25. Cheskin, Athletic Footwear, 129.
26. Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 350–51, 357–59.
27. Vanderbilt, Sneaker Book, 84, 111.
28. Phillip Nutt, telephone interview, November 15, 1999; Ed Nardoza, “A Once Proud Industry Is Now Down to Its Last Three,” Footwear News, vol. 39 (April 25, 1983), S1.
29. Vanderbilt, Sneaker Book, 57–60; Melissa Dallal, “Tinker Hatfield/Nike,” I.D., vol. 44, no. 1 (January—February 1997), 63; “Turbo-Charged Shoes,” SGB UK, May 20, 1999, 50; Patricia Leigh Brown, “Once-Lowly Sneaker Is Pedestrian No More,” New York Times, May 28, 1992; Tinker Hatfield, “Inspired Design: How Nike Puts Emotion in Its Shoes,” Harvard Business Review, July—August 1992, 93; Michele Golden, “The Design Guy: It’s Definitely the Shoes,” SportsTech, vol. 1, no. 1 (October 1997), 40–44; Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 355–56; Peta Bee, “Planet Trainer,” The Times (London), February 28, 1999.
30. Golden, “Design Guy,” 40, 43.
31. Bruce Tulloh, “Sole Searching,” Peak Performance, March 1991, 4; Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 86–88, 94–95, 358–60; Ian Hawkey, “Running Shoes Need Not Be Your Achilles’ Heel,” The Times (London), November 23, 1997; Owen Anderson, “The Shoe Scene: Are the Best Shoes Your Own Feet?” Running Research News, May—June 1991, 9–10; Adam Turnball, “The Race for a Better Running Shoe,” New Scientist, vol. 123, no. 1673 (July 15, 1989), 42–44; R. McNeill Alexander and Michael Bennett, “How Elastic Is a Running Shoe?” New Scientist, vol. 123, no. 1673 (July 15, 1989), 45–46; R. McNeill Alexander, “The Spring in Your Step,” New Scientist, vol. 114, no. 1558 (April 30, 1987), 42–44.
32. Cavanagh, Running Shoe Book, 166–71; Tom Yulsman, “Anatomy of the High-tech Running Shoe,” Science Digest, April 1985, 46ff.
33. C
avanagh, Running Shoe Book, 46–49; Tony Baer, “How Long Can This Go On?” Runner’s World, vol. 21, no. 4 (April 1986), 44.
34. Paul Carrozza, “Inside Cushioning Technologies,” Runner’s World, vol. 33, no. 9 (September 1998), 56–57; James Braham, “High Tech Afoot,” Machine Design, vol. 63, no. 11 (June 6, 1991), 80–84; Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 343–49, 355–57, 563–66, 619–22; Mark Hyman, “Bracing for Life Without ‘Air,’” Baltimore Sun, August 19, 1996. The original Air shoe patents are available at http://www.uspto.gov: U.S. Patents 4,183,156 of January 15, 1980, and 4,219,945 of September 2, 1980.
35. D. R. Martin, “How to Steer Patients Toward the Right Sport Shoe,” Physician and Sportsmedicine, vol. 29 no. 9 (September 1, 1997), 138ff.; Adam Bryant, “What Packers and Builders Can Learn from the Bees,” New York Times, October 6, 1991; Charles Leerhsen, “Now, Running on Empty,” Newsweek, December 3, 1990; “Jordan Shaking Up the Shoe Market,” St. Louis Post-Dispatch, November 5, 1989; “Letting You Down Easy,” Consumer Reports, vol. 57, no. 5 (May 1992), 308; “For Athletes, More Bounce from a ‘Space Age’ Shoe,” BusinessWeek, September 16, 1985, 133; “Designers Put the Boot In,” The Engineer, June 5, 1998, 20ff.; Carrozza, “Inside Cushioning Technologies,” 57.
36. Strasser and Becklund, Swoosh, 366.
37. Dallal, “Tinker Hatfield,” 63; Vanderbilt, Sneaker Book, 111; Tom Hawthorn, “High-tech Shoes Aim to Reduce Sports Injuries,” Globe and Mail (Toronto), April 10, 1987. Frank Rudy has observed that the envelope holding the compressed gas in Air shoes is actually under maximum load when it is sitting, not when it is being pounded by activity. See Braham, “High Tech Afoot,” 80ff.
Our Own Devices: How Technology Remakes Humanity Page 38