Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women
Page 64
Esquire, 228, 346
Euro-Planning/Stéphane Lanson, 292-293, 297, 298, 300, 398, 465
Evangelista, Linda, 7, 12, 150, 407, 408-409, 412, 413, 416, 426, 429, 441-442, 459, 487
background of, 427-428
Meisel and, 433-435, 439
as member of Trinity, 431, 433-440
Evans, Charlie, 141
Evans, Robert, 141, 348
Eyes of Laura Mars, The, 350
Face, The, 485
Face of the 80s contest, 451, 472, 474
Faces (agency), 479
Faithfull, Marianne, 175
Falkenburg, Jinx, 55-58, 57, 59, 73
FAM, 399, 489-490
Fame, Ltd., 352-354
Farley, Lillian (Dinarzade), 40
Fashion & Film, 239
Fashion Bureau, 81, 86, 102, 103, 105
Fashion Group, 96, 237, 425
fashion magazines, 40-41
British, 167
pay scale of, 16
photographers and, 77-78, 130
World War II and, 77-78
Fashion Model, 15, 277, 286, 376, 377, 387, 478
fashion photography:
Avedon and, 106-107
disco culture and, 226-229
first color fashion photo and, 41
first known fashion photograph and, 38
French Mob and, 255-256, 265, 280-281, 300
London scene and, 163-167
magazines and, 77-78, 130
outdoor, 77-78
Rayographs and, 39, 42
subtext and, 107
technology and, 38-39, 77-78
Terrible Trio and, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181
see also individual photographers
Fath, Jacques, 117, 137, 138
fees and earnings, 6, 16, 351, 500-501
of black models, 238-239
“reuse” payments, 312
television residuals, 197
Feitler, Bea, 247
Feldman, Ed, 241
Felicitas, 491
Ferri, Fabrizio, 375, 492
Ferry, Bryan, 298, 347
Fertig, Bob, 36, 37, 48, 59, 60, 61-62, 64, 65-66
Feurer, Hans, 282, 295
Fiedler, Christa, 209, 277, 285, 286, 289
Field, Simon, 314
Figaro Madame, 428
Filippachi, Daniel, 109
Finkelstein, Alan, 351-355
FitzGerald, Frances, 224-225
Flagler, Palen, 50, 72
Flanders, Annie, 424
Fleischman, Mark, 328
Foley-Anderson, Sara, 486, 488, 492
Fonseca, José, 176, 379, 461
Fonssagrives, Fernand, 51
Fonssagrives, Lisa, 12, 51-54, 53, 83-84, 107, 137, 398
Penn and, 84-85
Foray, Betty, 237
Forbach, Joan, 396
Ford, Billy, 123, 200, 472, 473, 474
Ford, Eileen, 5, 80, 83, 85, 93, 97, 113, 123, 124, 125, 129, 130, 133, 146, 171, 176, 207, 224, 228, 229, 231, 235, 246, 248, 255, 263, 265, 266, 267, 282, 283, 284, 290, 295, 298, 319, 337, 341, 343, 348, 350, 353, 355, 364, 374, 398, 407, 418, 457, 473, 474, 479, 494, 495
Ford, Eileen (continued)
background of, 92-94
Brunel and, 4, 468-469, 471-472
Casablancas’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380
on Dick Cavett Show, 252-253
Dovima and, 136, 208
Europe visited by, 138-142
Hutton and, 217, 218
Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371
Leigh and, 75, 105, 111-112, 204, 206, 208-209, 211
Mullen affair and, 127-128
Patchett and, 87-88
retirement and, 472, 497-498
Sawyer’s interview of, 468-469, 470
Turlington and, 416-417
21 International and, 285-286
Twiggy and, 187-188
Veruschka and, 187-188
Wilhelmina and, 196, 199-202
Ford, Gerard, 85, 92, 93, 94-95, 100, 101, 108, 129, 130, 132, 133, 146, 149, 172, 181, 197, 200, 202, 206-209, 221, 238, 246, 259, 279-280, 298, 302, 305, 307, 309, 311, 335, 337, 340, 343, 353, 355, 369, 370, 371, 375, 389, 398, 446, 460, 473, 474, 479, 504
Conover and, 54-55
Mullen’s affair with, 123-128
Parker and, 118-119
retirement and, 472, 497-498
“reuse” payments and, 312
21 International and, 285-286
Ford, Jamie, 95, 123, 200, 472
Ford, Katie, 140, 200, 418, 433, 472-474, 473, 480
Ford, Lacey, 200, 472, 473
Ford Models, 1, 14, 16, 37, 123, 133, 176, 197, 218, 229, 244, 246, 248, 259, 294, 353, 354, 440, 463, 504-505
Billingsley and, 95-96
black models and, 238
commissions paid by, 475
Dell’Orefice and, 146
Elite’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380
Esch’s attempted deal for, 479-480
European expansion of, 138-140
Face of the 80s contest of, 451, 472, 474
Ford’s retirement and, 472, 497-498
founding and growth of, 94-95
Hartford Agency and, 101
Leigh and, 94, 101, 105-106, 140
lingerie posing and, 200
Natálie and, 94-97, 130-131
Paris branch of, 472-474, 480
Parker sisters and, 116-118
restructuring of, 480
voucher system and, 100-101
Forsman, Holly, 201
Forth, Jane, 293
Fortune, 193, 310
Fortuny, Mariano, 45
Foster, Julie, 336, 376
Foster-Fell, Jeremy, 15, 17, 239-241, 478
Foster-Fell, Judith, 239-241
Frame, Bob, 19, 20
Frances Gill Agency, 128, 197, 217
Frank, Geraldine, 250
Franken, Wallis, 303
Franklin, Evelyn, 110
Freedman, Bobby, 206, 207
Freeman, Einson, 55, 58
French, John, 164, 165-166, 167, 168
French Connection, The, 306
French Mob, 255-256, 265, 300
approach of, 280-281
Fressange, Inès de la, 380-381
Freymann, Robert, 233-234
Frieberg, Agneta, 201, 229
Frissell, Toni, 36, 77, 108, 432
Funny Face, 112, 117, 134
Fürstenberg, Egon von, 272
Galas, Dominique, 467, 475
Galdi, Marcella, 374, 377, 398, 412
Gallant, Ara, 191, 330
Gambier, Colette, 277, 285, 286
Gander, Louise, 488
Garroway, Dave, 144
Gastel, Giovanni, 474
Gaulthier, Marilyn, 15, 489
Gay, Riccardo, 1, 6, 8, 15, 277, 278, 283, 286-289, 305, 306, 373, 374, 375, 377, 384, 386, 389, 390, 395-396, 398, 459, 461-462
Geffen, David, 250
Gentlemen’s Quarterly, see GQ
Gérald, Diane, 202, 204
Gere, Richard, 10, 25-27, 482
Gerli, Charles, 3
Ghauri, Yasmeen, 6, 150, 412
Gia’s Girls, 494
Gibb, Christopher, 174
Gibson Girls, 36
Giddings, Janine, 488
Gigli, Ormond, 201
Gill, Frances, 128-129, 149, 239
Gilles, Patrick, 382, 467
Girl Who Had Everything, The (Leigh), 75
Glamour, 16, 88, 132, 169, 226, 228, 230, 238, 242, 244, 246, 265-266, 320, 344-346, 420-421, 446, 486
Glaviano, Marco, 10, 11, 22, 316, 419, 453
Goalen, Barbara, 164
Golden, Jack, 132-134
Gollidge, Sylvia, 160
Good Housekeeping, 74, 107
Gordine-Dalley, Wynne, 176
Goude, Jean-Paul, 320
GQ, 10, 174, 410
Grace Del Marco Model
Agency, 237
Graham, Robert, 362
Grant, Cary, 73, 112-113
Graziani, Bettina, 137, 138, 287
Greco, Juliette, 137
Greene, Alexander Plunket, 166
Greene, Milton, 82, 107, 110
Greenwell, Mary, 9, 23
Griffin, Sunny, 199-202, 201, 226
Grill, Frances, 424, 425, 427, 492-494
Grimme, Jimmy, 415-417
Grosjean, Brigitte, 283
Gshopf, Eva, 229
Gubernick, Lisa, 101
Gudy, Maria, 201
Gumkevitch, Natasha, 285, 286
Gunning, Anne, 138, 139, 164
Gunzburg, Nicolas de, 77, 217
Haddad, Claude Mohammed, 4, 292-293, 297-298, 300, 301, 462-466, 467, 469, 471, 475, 489
Haden-Guest, Anthony, 110, 309-310, 350
Halinen, Maarit, 309, 312
Hall, Bridget, 2, 494-495
Hall, Jerry, 4, 291-293, 295-300, 299, 347, 366, 380, 381, 462, 483
Halleran, Jane, 141, 186, 229
Halliday, Johnny, 466
Hamel, Veronica, 201
Hamilton, David, 491
Hamilton, Georgia, 98
Hamilton, Shirley, 196
Hammond, Celia, 153-158, 155, 167-168
Hannagan, Steve, 32
Hansen, Patti, 254, 336, 344-347, 345, 352, 355, 360-363, 487
Hardison, Bethann, 238
Harker, Paul, 204
Harlé, Catherine, 204, 205, 211, 256, 276, 277, 284, 300
Harlow, Shalom, 474, 488
Harnett, Annemarie Margot Elfreda “Sunny,” 145-146, 147, 235
Harper’s & Queen, 429
Harper’s Bazaar, 16, 26, 36, 49, 51, 70, 72, 75, 76, 81, 82, 84, 106, 108, 117, 121, 133, 136, 146, 163, 164, 170, 173, 226, 231, 233, 237, 242, 262, 270, 324, 326, 429, 451, 452
advertising revenue of, 431
agencies and, 129-130
Avedon’s contract with, 223
celebrity fashions and, 247-248
Italian edition of, 376
Moss and, 486, 488
Tiegs and, 247-248
Vogue’s rivalry with, 40, 77, 90, 130, 218, 254, 333, 376-377, 485
Vreeland at, 78, 169, 189
waif look and, 486, 488
Harris, Lara, 491
Harrison, George, 153, 177, 178-179, 241
Hart, Winnie, see Wilhelmina
Hartford, Huntington, 61, 99, 129-130, 149
background of, 98
model agency of, 97, 101
reputation of, 100
voucher system and, 98-99
Harth, Ellen, 239-240, 380
Hartman, Patricia, 488
Hartman, Rose, 296
Hartnell, Norman, 159
Hawkins, Dolores, 200, 201
Hawks, Howard, 80
Haydon, Charles, 340, 341
Haywood, Spencer, 333-335
Hayworth, Rita, 50, 73, 186
Hedren, Tippi, 58
Heimann, Richard, 146, 230
Heintz, Kerstin, 259
Helburn, Bill, 90, 226
Helvin, Marie, 380, 381, 483
Hemingway, Ernest, 49
Hemingway, Margaux, 487
Hemmings, David, 173, 186
Hepburn, Audrey, 112
Hepburn, Katherine, 50, 72
Hernan, Kay, 37
Héron, Guy, 380-381, 489
Herrene, Astrid, 201, 219, 332
Herrera, Reinaldo, 144
Hesse, Paul, 55-56, 58
Hewitt, Heather, 201
Hiett, Steve, 280-281, 303, 491
Hilbert, Victoria, 201
Hill, David Octavius, 38
Himmel, Paul, 110
Hiro, 209, 218, 282
Hitchcock, Jane, 487
Hoare, Sarajane, 9, 13, 17, 22
Högberg, Helen, 466, 467
Hollingsworth, Toni, 97
Hollingworth, West C., 207-208
Holzer, Jane, 229, 425
Horn, Steve, 229
Hornby, Lesley, see Twiggy
Horst, Horst P. (Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann), 50-52, 76, 78, 82, 103, 112, 117, 126, 421
Horvath, Frank, 492
Houlès, Pierre, 281, 317, 320, 324, 325, 326
House & Garden, 430
House of Style, 10, 23, 482
Hoyningen-Huene, George, 39, 41, 42, 50-51, 52, 76, 78
Hoyt, Russell, 96
Hughes, Howard, 58, 81
Hunter, Joe, 1, 6-7, 309, 326, 329, 352-353, 354, 474, 479-480
Huntington, Pam, 250
Huston, Anjelica, 110, 234
Hutchence, Michael, 6
Hutton, Barbara, 73
Hutton, Lauren, 133, 200, 212-222, 213, 250, 254, 355, 442, 481, 487, 495
Casablancas and, 454-456
Eileen Ford and, 217, 218
Vogue and, 218-221
Iman, 314, 333-336, 334, 365, 376, 380, 457
IMG (International Management Group), 14, 481-482
Interview, 267
Iooss, Walter, Jr., 331
Ireland, Kathy, 482
Irwin, Elaine, 150, 412, 482
Jacobson, Max, 233-234
Jaeckin, Just, 280, 281
Jagger, Bianca, 250
Jagger, Harriet, 483
Jagger, Mick, 170, 174-175, 229, 250, 297, 298
James, Charles, 163
James, Maudie, 481
Janis, Byron, 108
Janssen, Barbara, 201
Jardin des Modes, 204
Jelke, Minot Frazier, III, 64
Jenny O, 493
Joel, Billy, 313
Joffe, Constantin, 82
Johanssen, Ingmarie, 301
John Robert Powers (agency), 31-36, 44, 47, 50, 52, 54, 80
competition and, 37-38
expansion of, 59-61
Johnson, Beverly, 239, 352
Johnson, Jay, 294
Johnson, Kate, 226
Jones, Brian, 174, 175
Jones, Candy (Jessica Wilcox), 55, 62-64, 63, 65-68, 81
Jones, Grace, 4, 292, 295
Jones, Jennifer, 37, 50, 83
Jones, Samantha, 201
Jones, Tommy Lee, 350
Jonvelle, Jean Francois, 264
Jordan, Donna, 293, 295, 487
Journal des Dames et des Modes, 38
Juba, Dorothy Virginia Margaret, see Dovima
Juliette, 491
Jungle Fever, 447
Junior Bazaar, 106-107
Kalfus, Jordan, 171, 172, 233
Kansbod, Lena, 303
Kaplan, Richard, 118, 146, 149
Karins, 15, 434, 467-469, 470, 471-472, 478
Kark, Leslie, 160, 163, 176-177
Kates, Faith, 477, 478
Kattan, Lizette, 314, 376
Keating, Peter, 355
Keeble, Kezia, 424-425
Keko, Hellevi, 201
Kelly, Grace, 58, 80, 129
Kendall, Kate, 178
Kenmore, Carolyn, 252
Kennedy, Jacqueline, 141, 233
Kennedy, John F., 144, 149, 233
Kent, Allegra, 234
Kerbox, Buzzy, 493
Kertesz, André, 77
Kibblewhite, Norman, 163
Kilgallen, Dorothy, 96, 136
King, Bill, 169, 262, 268-269, 366, 369
King, Harry, 170, 342
Kirkland, Sally, 138
Kironde, Katiti, II, 238
Kittler, Alain, 272, 276, 306-307, 308, 309, 310, 397, 398, 400, 451, 452, 459, 460, 461-462, 481, 496
Klein, Anne, 96, 238
Klein, Calvin, 13, 16, 314, 329, 340, 344, 351, 412
Moss and, 486-487
Turlington’s contract with, 432-434
Klein, Stephen, 411, 414
Klein, William, 29, 151, 210, 333
Klercker, Brigitta, 219
Knapp, Peter, 204, 291
Knaster, Polly Ferguson, 100, 129-130
Knudsen, Bitten, 335, 359, 360, 362,
363, 365-372, 376
Kohlman, Lynn, 301
Kosner, Edward, 458
Kounovsky, Nicholas, 82
Kraft, Lee, 218
Krainin, Ewing, 128
Krainin, Fan, 128, 129; see also Gill, Frances
Ladies’ Home Journal, 74, 87, 108, 118, 231, 236, 237-238
Laeticia, 491
Lagerfeld, Karl, 295, 297, 300, 448, 477
Laidlaw-Thompson, Fiona, 155
Lambert, Eleanor, 96, 237
Lamy, Francois, 301, 364, 376
Landshoff, Herman, 102
Lange, Jessica, 336
Lano, Francois, 202-204, 203, 206, 207, 208, 250, 255, 261, 264, 265, 267, 276, 283, 284, 286-287, 302, 303-304, 306-307, 310, 384-386, 396, 399, 402, 466
Lanson, Stéphane, 204, 286, 287, 292-293, 300, 382, 384, 386
Lantz, Barbara, 356-357, 358
Lanza, Suzanne, 491
Lanzotti, Roberto, 378, 381, 382, 386, 441
Larsen, Gunnar, 271, 276, 280
Larson, Anne, 201
Lategan, Barry, 181, 280, 301
Lauren, Ralph, 485, 493
Lawford, Chris, 493
Lawrence, Gertrude, 106
Le Baube, Guy, 303, 347, 450
Le Bon, Yasmin Parveneh, 5
LeBrock, Kelly, 431, 444
Lecca, Dan, 361, 413
Lee, Spike, 447
LeFevbre, Monique, 140
Legends, 481
Lehndorff, Vera von, see Veruschka
Lei, 425
Leigh, Dorian (Elizabeth Dorian Leigh Parker), 10, 12, 52, 81, 85, 86, 90, 110, 128, 131, 149, 187, 196, 200, 228, 255-256, 279, 284-285, 398, 472
Avedon and, 107-109, 119-120
background of, 75-76
Ben-Gurion and, 204-206
Chatelain and, 282-283