Cambridge

by Caryl Phillips

  Just after we turned off the island road, and into a small ascending lane, a number of pigs bolted into view, and after them a small parcel of monkeys. This took me by surprise, and I must have jumped some considerable space, for the gentleman took my arm as though to steady me and prevent my falling from the carriage. However, on resettling my position, I discovered that what I had taken for monkeys were nothing other than negro children, naked as they were born, parading in a feral manner to which they were not only accustomed, but in which they felt comfortable. I expressed my general concern at the blackness of the native people and was corrected on one count and instructed on the other.

  The blacks are not, it would appear, considered to be native people. They were, as is commonly known, imported from Africa to help ease our labour problem, and have continued to breed in these climes. Their migration to these shores means they cannot be recognized as true natives. In this same manner one cannot consider the white people native for they are here on a civilizing and economic mission. The gentleman informed me, in a short but edifying lecture, that the true natives of this region were of an Indian origin (hence the name 'West Indies'). Sadly they were discovered to be too troublesome and unused to European ways and had to be dispatched. However, this proved no simple task for, according to their savage customs, these Carib Indians armed themselves with clubs and sharp spears whose ends were decorated with poisonous fish bones. The character of these Carib Indians might best be described as fierce, superstitious and vengeful, ready to vent their anger on any and everything, animate or inanimate. Their fury bore more semblance to the wild irrationality of the lion than to the passionate intensity of man. Accustomed to being absolute masters of their own conduct, they scorned to follow orders, and displayed an implacable opposition to correction. Content merely to roam their native territory, this led naturally to the undernourishment of their powers of reasoning, and the limited development of their intellects. Presented with the improvements of civilized life they responded with apathy, continuing in that most base of all practices, the plumping of their fellow Indians for the purposes of consumption during their grand feasts. Happy for us that Paganism, with all its accompanying horrors, has now given way to a milder doctrine which has freed this land of the soul-sickening human feasting with which the original natives once polluted it.

  Having been corrected on the count of native peoples, I was now instructed on the question of colour. It appears that there are many shades of black, some of which signify a greater social acceptability man others. My host informed me that there were other persons who could give fuller and more authoritative instruction in this matter, but generally speaking the lighter the shade of black, the nearer to salvation and acceptability was the negro. A milkier hue signified some form of white blood, and it should be clear to even the most egalitarian observer that the more white blood flowing in a person's veins, the less barbarous will be his social tendencies.

  I asked after Mr Wilson, the manager of the estate and the man to whom my father had written informing him of my impending arrival, but the gentleman seemed unable to give me a clear and acceptable answer on this topic. He informed me that his status was that of book-keeper, doing so as though to plead with me that I was pressing him to stray into territory beyond his station. Knowing that my curiosity would soon be satisfied I refrained from this line of questioning and resumed the pleasant pastime of looking about myself and hoping to observe, albeit at a distance, new varieties of wild animal. But it was now that my fellow-passenger took it upon himself to broach the subject of my servant, or rather my lack of a servant. He asked of me if I was in the habit of travelling alone, careful to point out that unfettered travel can have its advantages, although he indicated that in these parts it is considered a little strange to see a lady abroad without her attendant or attendants. I suffered his polite enquiries and observations before replying as gently as possible, in order that I might spare his modesty, that my Isabella had been taken ill upon the seas and breath having fled her body she was cast upon the waters. His now flowering face and helpless stammer indicated to me the depths of his shame. I placed one hand upon his to assure him that I did not hold him in any way responsible for his blundering upon the unfortunate cause of my solitude. However, it appeared he was not to be consoled, and we passed the remaining phase of our journey without speech.

  I had been led to believe that planters' residences were imposing structures which stood, if at all possible, in commanding positions to reflect the status of the person housed within. This edifice was certainly no exception. We gradually neared the end of a short and steep ascent and turned off from this treacherous path into an avenue of cedars and palmettoes. Just visible at the end of this Arcadian grove, built of wood and stone, and standing clear of the ground on broad flinty supports, was the Great House that my father could, were he to avail himself of the time, and suffer a trifle inconvenience, claim to call his own home.

  The negro driver drew the carriage to a halt in a wide and somewhat ostentatious semi-circle that had the good fortune to deposit me at the foot of the sharply chiselled steps. These led up to the main entrance of this tropical palace. It somewhat disturbed my person to see no evidence of Mr Wilson. Indeed, there were no men of any description to greet me, save black servants who were all poorly clothed, horribly dirty, and had about their manner a lazy carelessness. They sauntered into view from all directions, and formed some variety of welcoming party. Both the negro men and the negro women appeared to be presided over by a jet woman, who stood central to this activity in a clean white dress with her arms folded across a generous bosom. She held herself as though the mistress, and stepped gaily down towards me with a delicacy which mocked her immodest proportions. She curtseyed in a charming manner, jabbered something to the driver, and then pointed to the old woman who stood upon the backplate of the carriage. I had forgotten about this woman's presence and had spoken freely and without due regard for a servant's large ears. Quickly casting my mind back over the breadth and range of my conversation, I decided that I had revealed nothing of import and felt greatly relieved by this discovery.

  The large negro woman informed me that her name was Stella, and that anything I desired was to be administered by her or by persons in her charge. In common with English practices, I had expected that in the tropical family a head female servant would be employed to assist the lady in dressing, work with the needle, and attend to the bed-chamber, but clearly this Stella's duties overflowed the mould. She offered apologies for the absence of Mr Brown, although I chose not to mention to her that I had no knowledge of who this Mr Brown was or might be. She then instructed a brace of her blacks to gather my luggage, while I was made to understand that I should follow her into the house. My book-keeper bade me farewell with a short jabbing salute, which led me to wonder if he had military experience. I smiled upon him but could see that he still stung with embarrassment at having stumbled upon the reason for my unaccompanied arrival.

  The entrance hall led into a central hall of handsome dimensions, both lofty and sumptuously decorated in mahogany finishing. On either side of this hall were bedrooms, and at the end of this tropical Guildhall was a wide and spacious veranda where one might sit outside and take the breeze. So overwhelmed was I by the opulence and beauty of this construction that I almost forgot my desire to rest and recover some of my senses. The firm entreaties of the negress Stella ('Misses needs must rest, must rest up some') reminded me that after the rigours of a sea journey, some moments invested in simply reclining would probably prove a great boon in better surviving the climate in the days to come, and adjusting to the social demands of the evening ahead. Stella guided me towards the bed-chamber, which was entirely fitted up and furnished in the English taste, and from whose windows I could view the sea, shipping and a great part of the island. Owing to the immodest height of the magnificent trees to the east of my chamber, I found I was also granted a most cool and merciful shade.

  The
bed was hidden behind the thin lawn curtains, which they describe in these parts as mosquito-nets. I am led to believe they are very necessary, for once these gentry smell the blood of an English arrivant they are quick to strike. Upon the bed itself lay a fine-quality Holland under-sheet, and one for covering. To the side of the bed, and neatly arranged upon a table, were quilts in case I should choose to use them. Stella advised me that often, in the middle of the night, a chill can take a sudden grip, and many an unknown visitor to those climes had been stricken (and worse) by the deception that in the tropical zone the temperature never descends. Having advanced counsel, and indicated to me these West Indian novelties, Stella informed me, with what I took to be a kindly smile writ large upon her black face, that I would not be summoned for dinner until I had rested.

  It was only after this black woman's departure that I realized the true nature of my fatigue. Anticipation, the exercise and strain of such, had led me to suspend my physical exhaustion. I was forworn with travel, weary, and wanting rest. As soon as I bathed my face with water, and lay down upon the Holland sheet, I dropped into a repose so deep that it was only a stormy shaking from Stella, her hands fixed firmly about my shoulders, that raised me. 'Missy! Missy! You must hurry, hurry quick! Mr Brown, he hungry and he no wait too long for you.' And so again the name of this Mr Brown made its appearance. I determined that having travelled across half the world I would not, in my father's own house, be hurried into preparing myself to a dinner with a man who had yet to explain himself to me. How dare he demand my presence as though I were some chattel? I made myself clear to Stella, whose response was to throw her hands into the air and bellow, 'O Lordy, Lordy,' at which I instructed her to kindly lower her voice. A lady, I told her, likes to ease her way out of a slumber, and not be bullied by the mooing of a cow into this new pasture of wakefulness. I further informed her that I had no desire to hear my mother-tongue mocked by the curious thick utterance of the negro language, so she might abandon her comical jargon and adopt English. Upon this the negress apologized and said that she would wait outside. I, meantime, took pleasure in dressing and attending my toilet at my own pace. Before I describe the dinner, I will give a brief account of the environs of the Great House and elaborate on what has gone before.

  The interior of the house is grand, as I said. The rooms, however, are not ceiled, and the beams protrude to afford a better circulation of air. The central hall is furnished with sofas for the purpose of relaxation, and the walls sport many prints and maps, some of which relate to navigation, a great number being of local interest and depicting the divisions of land and the breadth and extent of the estates. The most interesting of these maps is the one which shows the trafficking islands in relation to each other. I was able to discern that our own island, amply blessed with beauty, is nevertheless modest in size. Littering the central hall and the bed-chambers are any number of rockers and chests of drawers. These are all of a solid wood construction, which leads one to imagine that many fine craftsmen have clearly abandoned England to work in these tropical dimes where, I can only imagine, there is a greater abundance and variety of wood, and perhaps superior quality also.

  The veranda, or piazza as it is more commonly known, looks out over the estate. It is furnished with loungers and rockers, chess and backgammon boards, and a spy-glass so that one might observe in one direction the labourers at work in the fields, and in the other direction the passing of ships on the horizon. All the windows in the Great House are equipped with Venetian blinds which permit the free movement of air, and these blinds also close off some light which enables those inside to rest in cool and comfortable gloom. Beneath the house, porkers and poultry find shade and shelter and are allowed to run wild. Their retreat is well respected, but I wonder at the noise they occasion, and fear the smell in such heat. Cookery is performed in a separate building designed for this purpose but this kitchen is located close enough to the dining room so that during transportation the food should not be allowed to cool excessively, or be infested with insects or other pests. Some negroes appear to dwell in the hall at all times of the day so as to be near their master's call, but the majority are engaged in field-work. Their village, the sugar plant, and the attendant workshops, are all visible from the piazza. I presume that in the evening the house-servants slink away to their abodes, for there is properly no provision made for them beneath this elegant roof.

  Now, in conclusion, to the dining room. Fitted out with dining table and chairs of the finest mahogany, and a sideboard charged with crystal, china plates, and silver cutlery, it is one of the most distinguished I have ever seen. The curtains are of a heavy material and fall full-length to the floor. I entered without escort and found Mr Brown, a ruddy-complexioned man whom I imagine to be in his late thirties. He was sitting at the head of the broad table, his feet upon a chair, engaged in digging out mud from the soles of his boots with, of all implements, a dining fork. Squatting obsequiously beside him, a black boy was catching this mud and hurrying to toss it out of the window so that it might not lay where it fell. Observing my entrance Mr Brown drew his person to attention, nearly crushing the poor blackie beneath his soiled footwear. He announced himself and came forward to shake my hand. This action marked the onset and the conclusion of this man's civility. Once more he took his seat, but his full attention was now held by the food. Stella carried out the operation of serving at table, but the normal intercourse one might expect between host and stranger was sadly lacking in this instance. For example, I remarked to Mr Brown that it was a very fine day today, to which he replied that I would be tired of saying this before the week was over. I then observed the multitude of black servants, and commented that they all seemed good-humoured, and that I found it pleasant to observe them. His only response was to cackle rudely and attack his meat with renewed vigour, as though it might quit his plate were he not to impale it.

  There is little more I can recount of our dinner with reference to conversation, for this man's ignorance knew no boundaries. I asked after Mr Wilson, which elicited mocking laughter. He announced that once I had rested he would speak with me of the affairs of the estate. I chose not to press him, having already made up my mind that immediately I could obtain ink and paper I would insist to Father that this arrogant man must go. My peace of mind was further disturbed by the sudden intrusion of a negro woman whom it would appear had station above Stella. She momentarily took a seat at the table and whispered into the ear of this Mr Brown. Then' she smirked and took off again without so much as a 'Good evening, ma'am' to myself, or a 'By your leave' to anybody present. Stella appeared to tolerate the insubordination of this black wench, but I had already determined upon a meal of inner contemplation dignified by an outward display of stern resolution.

  Of the meal itself mere was little with which I could find fault, except perhaps its extravagance. The table is clearly one of wasteful plenty, in violation of all rules of domestic propriety. I have never seen such rich and heavily seasoned food: land- and sea-turtles, quails, snipes and pigeons, doves and plover. Excellent port, pepperpot, and men heavy vegetables which bore some resemblance to potatoes and cabbage, but were only near-cousin to these familiar staples of my diet. Dishes of tea, coffee, bumpers of claret, Madeira, sangaree, were all to be followed with citrus fruits and tarts of pineapple. I did enquire of Mr Brown if such a banquet were usual, to which he nodded as he pushed another stewed fish into his mouth. I could only imagine that he eats but once a day. For my part I must confess I found such excesses vulgar.

  The service provided by the blacks was decidedly tardy and bore little relation to the luxury of the food. Stella's charges seemed to find it convenient to set the dishes on the table in a careless and crooked fashion. Silver flagons kept company with cheap earthenware, and many of these servants and assistants (there appeared to be one for every dish upon the table) wore nothing upon their feet and salivated as they observed us eating. The busiest among them were those who drove away swarms of hungry
flies with the slow, rhythmical swaying of the great palm leaves. For the rest this was an opportunity to cast greedy eyes on what they would no doubt later wolf. I regarded their teeming presence with great distaste and vowed that in the morning I would bring up this surplus with Mr Brown.

  It is indeed sad that my first day should have ended so unpleasantly. Perhaps it is too much to expect an immediate adjustment to the ways of the tropics, but surely good manners rise above dime and conditions. Outside, in the darkness, I can hear unfamiliar noises. The sawing of the mosquitoes I am already accustomed to, as I am too with the grunting and squawking of poultry and pigs beneath my chamber. But the distant braying of what I imagine to be negroes, and the ghostly silence of the house about me, leads me to wonder where exactly Mr Brown's quarters are, should there be aught to trouble me. O how I miss my Isabella. Should I encounter difficulty in sleeping mere is nobody to whom I might turn.

  These past three to four weeks have been the most difficult I can recall. To be more accurate, the most difficult I cannot recall, for my memory of them has been clouded by fever. Although still far from being hearty, I am so much improved, I imagine that if anyone who saw me a week ago were to look upon me now they would not believe me to be the same person. As to the origins of my illness, at first I thought it some slabbery thing that had caused my stomach to stand up. After all, the table on my first night was brimming with fowl, fish and vegetables with which I was unfamiliar. But my stomach stood up and lay back down again, and still the fever had me in her grip. It was at this juncture that I succumbed to a real fear that I might have contracted the same distemper which carried off Isabella. Stella summoned the doctor, who worried that I might fall a rapid sacrifice to this climate. Accordingly, he redoubled his attentiveness to me. It was shortly after the arrival of the doctor that I lost all recollection of what was taking place about my person. Now I am improved and instructed to take great care of what I put to my mouth. I must, in addition, observe a strict diet of short walks to help rebuild my strength.