4. Roll the dough to 1/2-inch thickness; cut with a 21/2-inch biscuit cutter. Place the biscuits on a greased baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden.
An Easter Playlist
“APRIL IN PARIS”
BILLIE HOLIDAY
“A-TISKET, A-TASKET”
ELLA FITZGERALD
“HEY BOY! HEY GIRL!”
LOUIS PRIMA AND KEELY SMITH
“SPRING CAN REALLY HANG YOU UP THE MOST”
ELLA FITZGERALD
“LA VIE EN ROSE”
ÉDITH PIAF
“I’VE GOT THE WORLD ON A STRING”
ANITA O’DAY
“IT’S A GOOD DAY”
PEGGY LEE
“LIMEHOUSE BLUES”
DJANGO REINHARDT
“SALT PEANUTS”
DIZZY GILLESPIE
Biscuit-Making Tips
Biscuits are such a staple in the South that making them can be intimidating until you get the hang of it. Here are a few secrets that might help.
• Start with cold butter cut into small chunks. You can cut the butter and then hold it in the freezer while you get your other ingredients together.
• Mix all the dry ingredients together well before you start.
• Use a pastry cutter to blend the butter into the flour; this keeps the butter cold. You can use your hands if you have to, but work quickly because the heat from your hands will start to heat up the butter.
• Blend the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal or pea-sized clumps. This technique creates little pockets of butter spread throughout the dough, resulting in a buttery, flaky texture in each biscuit as the butter melts into the dough.
• After milk or buttermilk is added, don’t knead the dough. Just mix it with your hands until the milk is incorporated and the dough resembles a loose, shaggy blob. Once you put the dough out on the floured surface, it will start to come together into a rollable dough.
• Keep a little measuring cup or pile of extra flour near your rolling surface so that you can easily grab a little more flour to sprinkle on if the dough starts to stick.
• Sprinkle some flour onto a rolling surface and pat some flour onto your hands when you are ready to turn out the dough onto the surface. Rub the rolling pin with a bit of flour, too.
• Roll out the first pass to about an inch thick, then fold the dough over onto itself and roll out again. The first couple of passes will need a little more flour patted onto the dough and the rolling pin. Roll out again, this time to about 1/2 inch thick. Fold the dough over itself in half and then again into fourths—this is what creates layers in a biscuit!
• Roll one last time, until the dough is about 1/2 inch thick. Press a biscuit cutter or even the open end of a juice glass into some flour and then cut out biscuits as close to the edges and each other as possible.
• VERY IMPORTANT! When cutting out the biscuits, do not twist the cutter. Press straight down and back up. Twisting the cutter creates a seal around the edges of the dough, resulting in biscuits that cannot raise up as high when baking.
• You can roll out the dough that remains after cutting the first batch, but try not to knead the dough too vigorously. The more you work the dough, the tougher the biscuits will be.
• Place the biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet right up next to the edge of the sheet and right next to each other with their sides touching. This helps them rise rather than spread out, creating taller, flakier biscuits.
• Use the dough left from the second round of cutting to roll out into a “snake,” and then press the snake to the edges of the biscuits that are on the outside of the rows of cut biscuits. Depending on the size of your baking sheet and how much dough there is, it is very likely that your biscuits will not fill the pan all the way. Lining the outer biscuits with the snake helps those biscuits rise up tall. Plus, when the pan comes out of the oven, it’s fun to watch the kids fight over who gets to eat the biscuit snake. (See page 77 for photo.)
• Halfway through the baking process, spin the baking sheet 180 degrees. All ovens are different, and sometimes the biscuits don’t rise evenly because of the pan’s proximity to the sides of the oven. Spinning the tray halfway through helps the biscuits rise and bake more evenly.
• Once you remove the biscuits from the oven, immediately brush them with melted butter. This creates a beautiful sheen and is, of course, delicious.
SERVES 10 TO 12
Sweet Potato Casserole with Candied Pecan Crust
* * *
8 medium sweet potatoes (about 31/2 pounds), peeled
1/3 cup Grade B maple syrup
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 cup mini marshmallows (optional)
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly grated nutmeg
4 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small cubes
1/2 cup toasted pecan pieces
* * *
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease an 11-by-7-inch baking dish.
2. Slice the potatoes and place in a Dutch oven. Fill the pan with water to just cover the slices. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.
3. Add the maple syrup, salt, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and cream to the hot potatoes. Mash with a potato masher or beat with a hand mixer until smooth. Transfer the puree to the prepared baking dish. Top evenly with mini marshmallows, if desired.
4. To prepare the crust, combine the flour, sugar, salt, and a few gratings of nutmeg in a bowl. Cut the butter cubes into the mixture using two knives or a pastry blender until it resembles coarse meal. Stir in the pecan pieces and sprinkle over the top of the casserole. Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the top is caramelized and fragrant.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Asparagus with Mock Hollandaise Sauce
* * *
Fresh asparagus is a sure sign of spring. Hollandaise is a perfect pairing that some people avoid making because it can separate and it’s hard to keep if you don’t use it right away. Dorothea handed down to me this easy recipe for Mock Hollandaise Sauce made with store-bought mayonnaise. It might be cheating a bit, but it’s so tasty I doubt you’ll hear any complaints.
* * *
2 bunches thick asparagus spears, trimmed
2 tablespoons kosher salt
MOCK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
1/2 stick butter
Freshly grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup good mayonnaise, such as Hellman’s or Best Foods
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
1/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
* * *
Fill a large sauté pan or asparagus steamer with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and salt and cook for 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and drain the asparagus. Immediately transfer the spears to a bowl of ice water to shock them and lock in the bright green color. When cool, drain again.
TO MAKE THE MOCK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
1. Melt the butter and add the lemon zest. Set aside. In a food processor or blender, blend the mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, salt, and cayenne pepper. Slowly drizzle in the melted butter through the feed tube a little at a time to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning.
2. The asparagus may be served at room temperature or reheated in the sauté pan or an asparagus steamer filled with simmering water for 1 minute. Drain and arrange on a warm serving platter. Serve with the sauce.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH PIE
Mile-High Lemon Meringue Pie
* * *
One 9-inch prebaked pie shell
&n
bsp; FOR THE FILLING
6 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
2 cups sugar
Finely grated zest of 4 lemons (about 2 tablespoons)
Freshly squeezed juice of 4 lemons (3/4 cup)
1 cup softened butter
FOR THE MERINGUE
6 large egg whites
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
6 tablespoons powdered sugar
* * *
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
TO MAKE THE FILLING
Whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat for 7 to 8 minutes, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and forms a custard (like a thick eggnog) and reaches 165°F. Remove from heat and mix in the lemon zest, lemon juice, and butter; let cool while making the meringue.
TO MAKE THE MERINGUE
1. Whisk the egg whites in a bowl with a mixer or by hand until frothy. Add the salt and cream of tartar and beat until stiff but not dry. Beat in the powdered sugar 1/2 tablespoon at a time until incorporated. Continue beating until the meringue is glossy and holds its shape well.
2. Pour the lemon custard into the pie shell. Spoon the meringue on top of the filled pie and spread gently into waves with a spatula to the edges of the crust. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes. Turn off the oven and let the pie cool for 45 minutes with the oven door closed. Remove to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature before serving.
Halloween
Hayrides and pumpkin patches, mazes and quilts . . . I love this time of year. And because, guys . . . I’m an actor! I love a costume that involves full makeup and a wig—a complete transformation. One time when Deacon was only one and Ava was five, we all got dressed up to go to a neighborhood Halloween party. I went as Sally from The Nightmare Before Christmas. Well, we arrived at the party and . . . I was the only grown-up in a costume! That’s right: I had to sip cocktails at this party of fifty adults while I was in a full face of rag-doll makeup and a yarn wig. Embarrassing, yes, but I believe it speaks volumes about my commitment to holidays.
On this theme: last Halloween, I had a bunch of hay bales plus forty-seven pumpkins in the yard outside my house. I kind of went overboard, pumpkin-wise—and it took me a while to figure out what to do with them after Thanksgiving (there’s only so much pumpkin bread a family can eat), but we had a lot of fun pretending we lived in the middle of a pumpkin patch.
Fourth of July
You have to go somewhere and sit on a grassy lawn and watch fireworks—somewhere, anywhere. And you have to drink American beer on the Fourth of July. You have to. It’s a rule. And eat hot dogs. Even if you don’t like them. No arguing. You have to. Salads tomorrow. But on the Fourth, it’s all macaroni and cheese, hot dogs and hamburgers, and American beer. That’s it. God bless America.
New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day
To start the year off right, it’s customary in the South to eat a big, lucky meal of Hoppin’ John (black-eyed peas and rice), collards, and corn bread (or simple hoe cakes, like the ones on page 271). Southern superstition has it that eating collards on New Year’s means you’ll make plenty of money in the new year. Speaking of rich: this dish is far from light. After this meal, expect everyone to need a nap. New Year’s Day is a great day for open houses, too. Friends drop by to eat these treats, drink plenty of beer and Bloody Marys as a “hair of the dog” hangover cure, and wish one another good fortune for the coming year. If you’re enjoying a warm southern winter, you can play a game of horseshoes out in the yard for extra good luck.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Hoppin’ John
* * *
Every southerner has a favorite recipe for this classic dish. Some may insist that you use only fresh peas. In my kitchen, it’s fine to use fresh, dried, or frozen. Just be sure if you are using dried beans to soak them overnight or use the “quick soak” method on the package.
* * *
4 to 6 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped roughly
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped onions
1 cup chopped green pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 cups chicken broth
4 cups fresh, frozen, or soaked dried black-eyed peas
11/2 cups basmati or long-grain rice
Chopped scallions for garnish
* * *
1. In a Dutch oven or large saucepot, cook the bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it has rendered some of its fat and is just beginning to get crispy. Add the celery, onions, and green pepper and cook until the vegetables begin to get soft. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add the chicken broth and peas. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the peas are tender but not falling apart.
2. Strain the pea mixture, reserving the cooking liquid; return the pea mixture to the pot along with about 1 cup of the cooking liquid, and keep warm over very low heat. In a medium saucepan, combine the rice and 2 cups of the reserved cooking liquid (add water if there is not enough to make 2 cups) and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for about 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Check the rice to see if all of the liquid has been absorbed. If not, keep it on the heat for a few minutes more, and when done, fluff it with a fork. Serve the peas and rice together on a plate with collard greens (see folllowing) and sprinkle with fresh scallions.
SERVES 8
Braised Collard Greens in Smoky Ham Hock Broth
* * *
Today raw kale and quickly sautéed collards may be all the rage, but when I was growing up, my grandma’s greens simmered for hours on the stove. You could smell that collards were on the menu before you even got to the front door. Serve these with hot sauce and pepper vinegar.
* * *
SMOKY HAM HOCK BROTH
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
1 large onion, peeled and quartered
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 dried red pepper
1 smoked ham hock
COLLARD GREENS
2 bunches (2 pounds) collard greens
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 Vidalia or other sweet onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Smoky Ham Hock Broth (see above)
Pepper vinegar (e.g., Trappey’s pepper vinegar)
Hot sauce
* * *
TO MAKE THE BROTH
Put all the ingredients into a large saucepot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 to 11/2 hours. Pour the broth through a strainer; reserve the red pepper pod and the ham hock but throw out the rest of what is left in the strainer. On a cutting board, remove the meat from the hock bone and return it to the pot. Slice the reserved pepper pod and return it to the strained broth. Keep the broth on a low simmer until you are ready to cook the collard greens.
NOTE: You can make the broth a day or two ahead and keep in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it—just heat it up in a pot before cooking the collards.
TO MAKE THE COLLARD GREENS
1. Wash the collard greens by soaking them in a sink filled with water, allowing any gritty sand or soil to sink to the bottom. Remove the thick stems from the leaves by holding each stem in one hand and pinching the leaf around the stem at the widest bottom part with your other hand. Pull the leaf and stem away from each other in one sweeping move. Remove any large leafy parts that remain. In batches, stack a handful of the leaves and roll them up into a cigar shape. Then slice crossways with a large knife to create about 1/4-inch-wide ribbons. Place the ribbons in a bowl and set aside—do not spin or dry
the leaves.
2. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute the onions for a minute or two, until they begin to soften. Add the garlic and salt and sauté for another minute. Put handfuls of the collard ribbons into the oil and onion mixture (you may have to do this in batches if your pot fills up—as the leaves cook, they will wilt to a much smaller size). Wilt the greens by turning them over with tongs or a large wooden spoon or spatula to sauté them slightly and coat them with the oil. Sprinkle with the sugar as you sauté the greens (this will cut down on any bitterness and not really add sweetness to the greens), and the black pepper, then cover the greens with the smoky ham broth, including the ham hock meat and the sliced red pepper pod. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour. Serve the collards with some of the “pot likker,” the nutrient-rich broth that remains after cooking. Serve with the pepper vinegar and the hot sauce, allowing diners to sprinkle on as much as they like.
MAKES ABOUT 16 CAKES
Corn Bread “Hoe Cakes”
* * *
Southern corn bread is a staple—cooked in a black iron skillet, it’s hard to beat. But cornmeal pancakes or “hoe cakes” (also sometimes called johnnycakes) are crispy, delicious, and easy to make for a crowd. You can use a cornmeal mix and follow the directions on the package or just make this easy batter mixture.
Whiskey in a Teacup Page 13