Why I Love New Orleans

by Heather Graham

  People do raise children here and when you’re with children, just check out what the offerings are. They can be awesome—even for the little ones!

  Moving from the big in the midst of the Quarter over to the outskirts, I’ll mention a couple of chains; a massive Marriott with a view from the top that is certainly unmatchable, a Sheraton right across the Street on Canal, and a Holiday Inn, on the edge of the Quarter as well. They often offer specials. Both the Sheraton and Marriott are often used by conventions—since they can accommodate them!

  Another favorite of mine is the Hotel Provincial at 1024 Chartres Street. It’s a conglomeration of historic buildings and offers large rooms and suites furnished beautifully with old Southern antiques and reproductions. There was a hospital here during the Civil War and the entire property is supposed to be haunted. They have a pool and lovely courtyards and the staff are some of the most welcoming and nicest people I’ve come across—in a city where everyone tends to be really nice.

  There are two Ws to be found in the area; one is nice and big and close to Harrah’s. (333 Poydras) The other is on Chartres Street as well and this hotel is really charming. The building is, of course, historic. It offers an absolutely charming and large courtyard with comfy seating and lanterns and is really lovely. I highly recommend it. 316 Chartres Street. (Across from my favorite NOLA tea shop! Around the corner from the Monteleone. A block or so from K. Paul’s.)

  2127 Prytania offers up the gorgeous Magnolia Mansion—no children allowed, but they actually offer a “haunted” package. It’s popular with weddings and showers and celebrations—and those looking for the ‘haunted,’ of course. The street car can get you around. It like many of the wonderful bed and breakfast places that are in the Garden District, are historic and beautiful and well worth the stay. Just remember, you won’t walk out and take a two or three minute walk to the center of the French Quarter.

  Just a few more to mention—Place d’Armes in the Quarter offers easy access to many venues; it’s at 625 St. Ann Street and it’s fun and historically charming, though not as plush as some of the others and you may hear your hotel mates doing some celebrating through the night. But it’s friendly and fun and we’ve stayed or had family members there several times. The Nine-O-Five Royal is at 905 Royal Street—and they’re fun and funky and convenient. They advertise that the building was erected in the gay nineties and has no particular history—I love their sense of hey, we’re here, and we’re in a darned good spot.

  There are so many treasures in the city! It’s impossible to get to a tenth of a tenth of them. I’ve given you just a few, but I really didn’t mention any of the incredible mansions in the Garden District...

  So, the thing, figure what means most to you—price, location, history!—and find the perfect home for you in the Big Easy!

  Day Twenty-Seven - The Good, The Bad & The Ugly - The Slave Market and the Civil War

  There were many flags over New Orleans and more nationalities than flags—and a color palette that would confuse the makers at Crayola.

  There were French in the city, of course. A lot of prisoners—convicts given a new life—as in much of the New World and Australia. There were Frenchmen, Spaniards, Englishmen, Scots, Irish, Americans, and Islanders, so many from Haiti, especially after the Haitian Revolution.

  Pre-Civil War days, New Orleans has the largest New World slave market going. One of the markets was at the corner of St. Louis and Chartres Streets at the old St. Louis Hotel and Slave Market. It had an elaborate rotunda where every afternoon, slaves went up for sale. It could be a brutal market; slave traders wanted to make sure that they sold their human “goods” before summer. Summer could bring on malaria and all kinds of other diseases and God forbid your income up and die on you!

  As mentioned before, it was while seeing the activity at the slave market—while staying at the Cornstalk Hotel—that Harriet Beecher Stowe became compelled to write “Uncle Tom’s Cabin.” (There were other slave markets; this was the largest.)

  But nothing is black and white. Well, some were legally white, and some were legally black. But there was also a curious system of colors, and names that more or less went with NOLA more than any other place.

  Because in this same space where human souls were bought and sold, balls often went on. Quadroon balls. So, how does one become a quadroon? I’ll begin at the curious beginning of color-coding that went on at the time. First, if you were of mixed race, you were a femme de colour or gen de colour. Now, if you were half white and half black, you were a mulatto. If you were half mulatto and half black, you were a griffe. If you were mulatto and white, you were a quadroon. See? Easy.

  Many blacks and mulattos and quadroons and griffes in New Orleans were free men or free woman. As such, they sometimes owned slaves as well. Quadroons were frequently prized as mistresses. Now, that’s not hard to comprehend if we look at the multitude of Americans of mixed race—they are some of our most beautiful people.

  But it was a hard and confusing social life. Some men of color might do business with their white neighbors—and yet never sit down to a meal with them.

  Just as some men were cruel and wickedly beat their slaves and wrenched families apart, some were kind, and saw their slaves as part of their own extended families with all on the plantation or in the home working for the best of everyone there.

  Oh, I forgot one of the other colors in the palette—you could be rouge! Yes, sounds lovely. That’s what you were if you were mixed with Native American blood.

  So much that we look at in the past is so horribly ugly. But, sadly, we can never erase the past. To forget history is so wrong. In the words of the great philosopher George Santayana, “Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.”

  We need to learn from the past.

  Now, I’m not saying that things are always rosy-cheery in New Orleans or that old prejudices don’t raise their ugly heads now and then. But I am saying that it can be one of the most wonderful cities in the world because it’s certainly one of the most mixed cities in the world. I can tell you that my friends there cover just about every shade in that palette I was talking about. They are of black, white, Spanish, French, Italian, African, you-name-it descent.

  But back to the slave market.

  It’s gone. After the war, it was used for a while by the state legislature. By 1915, it was abandoned and a haven for rats and roaches and...yes. It was condemned.

  Today, the beautiful Omni Royal Orleans stands where it once stood.

  And guests of every color in the palette are welcomed and enjoy the hotel’s hospitality.

  But back when the Civil War fell upon the country, New Orleans was the biggest city in the South. It had those horrible slave markets. But, to a Union fighting to keep the country together, it was most important as the main port along the mighty Mississippi. The river was a life line for Confederate troops. It was imperative that the Union take New Orleans. Admiral Farragut set out to win the city; gunboats sailed the Mississippi and by the end of April, 1862, New Orleans was forced to surrender.

  It would remain in Union hands for the duration of the war. The General who would become known as “Beast” Butler would wield military rule with a brutal hand. His worst offense was issuing Butler’s General Order #28. It was wordy, but basically it said that any woman who insulted a Union officer was to be treated as if she were a prostitute. That brought about a lot of anger—from the North and South! He was also known as “Spoons” Butler—that was for all the looting the man did.

  I guess the thing to really remember here is this—the good, the bad, and the ugly came on both sides. It’s easy today to wonder how anyone could have condoned such an inconceivable notion as slavery. But, back then, it was as old as the Bible, as old as time. Just as Union generals left the Federal military to join their states—they were Louisianans, Virginians, Georgians, Floridians, etc., first—loyal to their states before their Federal government. We still hear a lot
about states’ rights, and they remain incredibly important in our politics today.

  But if you are a Civil War buff like me—intrigued, like me, by some of the incredible, honorable and dedicated men and women of the time—there are some sites you can visit. First, to me, and the most gut-wrenching, is to stand on that corner and imagine the human misery of the slave market. Then, you can check your times and head on over to see the Museum of the Confederacy. (See previous blog!) To view the forts that were important, you have to travel a bit out of the city.

  Fort St. Philip is only accessible by boat or helicopter, is privately owned, and in a bad state of disrepair. Fort Jackson, however, can be visited, though it, too, sustained heavy damage during the summer of storms. Check with any of NOLA’s fine tour companies if you want to see it.

  Chalmette Battlefield is a great day trip for history buffs. While the Union pretty much sailed by the Chalmette defenses during the taking of New Orleans and you’ll learn more about the War of 1812, excellent guides who love history can make you see just how important the city of New Orleans was to the North—and just how they maneuvered to take the city.

  I love New Orleans for all its wonderful colors. While the past was sometimes horribly ugly, it leads to our present, and a city as beautiful as all the shades in a rainbow.

  Day Twenty-Eight – Lagniappe

  The word lagniappe actually entered the world through the Louisiana French who adapted it from the Spanish Creoles who came to New Orleans who adapted it from a Quechua word. Confusing?

  It originated from lapay, which sounds like a slangy version of “you pay.”

  It means just the opposite. It means a little something for nothing, or a little something extra. It’s very nice. Lagniappe is all the little extra wonderful things about New Orleans.

  There really so many things to do in New Orleans; it would take a massive travel book to begin to point them all out. But today’s the day to mention a few I’ve missed. A few more of the wonders to be found in NOLA.

  We’ll start with the steamship Natchez. Some people call it Natchez 9. That’s because there have been many ships called the Natchez. The one you can board now in New Orleans was actually built in 1975. Her pieces come from earlier years, however. Such as her steam engines which were built for the Clairton in 1925. Her whistle is an antique, and her calliope was hand produced just as the calliopes of old. Her steel-and-copper bell was produced from 250 silver dollars—I’m not really sure how a copper bell was made from silver dollars “for purity of sound,” but that is the case.

  Hop aboard for a cruise that can include different meals and entertainment, and the sense of what it was like in days of old, traveling the city by the mighty Mississippi. Great views can be obtained, and to me, true perception of the river. The Mississippi is mighty and powerful.

  We hopped aboard the Natchez for Writers for New Orleans once and had a great time; it was a costume party with a jazz band on one level and karaoke on another—fantastic food and a beautiful night on the river. Having seen the play Show Boat and then the musical with Howard Keel, I was anxious to actually get aboard a steamboat.

  The Natchez doesn’t disappoint—hop aboard! Naturally, you can find the Natchez at the river. The ticket office can be found at Toulouse and the river.

  Walk the river—yes, of course, there’s a river walk. If you’re not going to cruise, it’s great just to walk the walk—and watch the great big muddy Mississippi. Also, there are the Riverwalk Shops and the Riverwalk Marketplace. (500 Port of New Orleans Place.) While you’re heading that way, you could stop in at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. (The Museum of the American Cocktail just found new digs and is in process of moving as I write!)

  Are you a gambler? Harrah’s is there, large, in Mardi Gras style, and offering everything from slots to poker to craps and roulette, fine restaurants, and a very nice hotel. Harrah’s can be found easily at Canal Street—you wouldn’t want to hide a big Casino!

  Convenient and offering changing exhibits is the Historic New Orleans Collection. This museum is dedicated to New Orleans and Louisiana. Artifacts chronicle life, art, music—you name it—in the city of New Orleans and the surrounding environs. You can find events happening here—life, art, music—you name it—and ever-changing special exhibits. Since the Historic New Orleans Collection is easily found at 533 Royal Street. You can make a great day of shopping, browsing—and enriching your sense of the city and history by stopping in. The last time I visited, the exhibits gave the visitor a great sense of day to day life in the area during the mid 1800s. Ladies gloves, gentlemen’s pursuits, all displayed thoughtfully and artistically in handsome displays.

  Hopping over to Algiers for the day is intriguing. Algiers is on the west bank of the Mississippi and is actually the “15th” ward of the city of New Orleans. (There are 17) Algiers can be reached by the Canal Street Ferry. The area has had its ups and downs through the years and has a rich history all its own. Now the area offers pleasant shopping and browsing. A number of Mardi Gras “krewes” maintain warehouses in Algiers for their floats and costume materials and supplies. There are beautiful late 1800s churches and libraries here, along with the shopping. When the Confederate army left Algiers behind when the Union was about to take over, they destroyed any arms, munitions, and supplies, not wanting them to fall into Union hands. Most of the area was burned and most buildings there were obviously constructed post-Civil War.

  Have some energy and want to cover some space? You can head to 1815 Elysian Fields and to Confederacy of Cruisers. Bike around the city on a Schwinn with a guide who will give you all the ins and outs. Depending on your mood and desires, you can see the city in dozens of ways; tour companies abound. By carriage, by motor vehicle, by bike—and by Segway! Now, there’s a fun challenge. Learn to balance and see the city at the same time.

  You can also go up in a plane for a tour—Big Easy Tours can give you a bird’s eye view of the city. I’ve had friends who have loved it—pricing is around $250 a person. (I can’t personally attest to this one; too chicken for small planes I don’t have to be on!)

  You can also book a Hurricane Katrina Tour. This will take you to the 9nth Ward where, to this day, residents are trying to put back the pieces from the flooding after Katrina and the devastating summer of storms. While it’s humbling and heart-breaking to hear many of the stories, it’s also uplifting to see the resiliency to be found in the human soul—and the energy put in by so many people to bring back all that was broken. We are a great nation.

  So, you’re worn out and tired. You’ve biked or Segway-ed, walked, listened, learned—seen. Take a little jaunt to Magazine Street. You’ll find wonderful and unique shops that will grab your attention even if you’re worn out. You’ll also find some of the most wonderful bars and restaurants in the city—places to chill after a long day of loving New Orleans. During the day I’m particularly fond of Artz Bagelz (3138 Magazine.) For dinner, I suggest Domenique’s on Magazine, 4213 Magazine. You can also find great coffee, chocolate, desserts...trust me. It’s just a nice place to be. You’ll find something that will make you very happy!

  Day Twenty-Nine - Everybody's Got an Opinion

  So…I love New Orleans, which is pretty evident. I’ll never know exactly what made me so very passionate about the city. Is it the history—is it a real mystique, or something that we’ve given to it.

  More than anything, I think it’s the way that NOLA manages to be a city of living history. People live out their lives in homes where others tread before, dealing with the tragedy of the Civil War, slave markets, Civil Rights, and more. Restaurants are places where those creating the eras that came before us dined and talked and voiced their own opinion about “current” political situations that shaped the nation we live in now. Since the summer of storms, the city is more international than ever. Everyone is welcome in NOLA—Southern hospitality abounds. There’s the “decaying elegance” of bygone times; there is the good and the bad—an
outlook that is resilient and hopeful for the future. There are the cemeteries where the past seems to seep right into your skin and Jackson Square where you see the performers, hear the performers, and the wonderful laughter of the children. Ghost stories in carriages as you listen to the voice of your guide...and the clip-clop of the mule’s hooves.

  So, coming almost to the end here, I’ve asked a few of my children and friends to give me their opinions of this amazing city. There’s usually something that draws everyone, and for everyone, that something is just a little bit different.

  From Jason Pozzessere (my son and co-author of A Child’s Cry, Cast of Characters)

  When in New Orleans there are three main attractions that most people just can’t get enough of. Bourbon Street, with its wide array of bars, club, and restaurants is a sure bet for a crowd pleaser. Second is the art, it is everywhere, and you can find beautiful works in galleries, shops, hotels,and even on the streets. But the third, and most important one—in this foodies humble opinion—is the food!

  From K Paul's, to the World Famous Acme Oyster House, there is plenty to find that is sure to please. But nothing beats a late night round at the Original Cafe Du Monde when one needs a respite from a fun night on the town or a crazy all night bender.

  Since 1862 this French Market Original has been serving tasty treats to folks that have no known equal in the modern world. From its scrumptious food specialty, the French beignet, to its perfect partner in crime, a steaming glass of Chicory coffee, the cafe is sure to please just about everyone with working taste buds.